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About jsondergaard

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    Mondeo MK4
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  1. With the miles it has done, I'd rather do an engine swap than a new head. However, I still need to do some digging, to see if there's any rocker damage as you mentioned. However, the compression on all cylinders seem low, right? I would expect at least 20 bar from a diesel normally
  2. Hi nicam, I've already removed the glow plug relay, and as previously mentioned I get 300-320 RPM when cranking, with fuel pressures around 25-35.000 kPa. And I've posted scans from ForScan when cranking a bit longer up in the thread. I've just tried doing a compression test. My results from two tests: - cylinder one: 11/11 bar - cylinder two: 7/5 bar - cylinder three: 11,5/10 bar - cylinder four: 14/14 bar The figures aren't great, and getting some of the results were kind of difficult. Even though everything was tight, with no leaks, sometimes I couldn't get a reading. Seemed totally at random when I could or couldn't get a reading. I got the readings by removing all glow plugs, and used a compression tester with screw-on adapters for the glow plug holes. Glow plugs were also smothered in a mixture of oil and fuel. Any idea as to why is greatly appreciated, however I still think the results are correct. Since the engine has done 220.525 miles, I'm thinking of throwing in a new engine instead of getting the current one rebuilt. Does anyone know if this is possible with only a jack with a lifting height of 467mm (so probably engine out from the top)? Everything I've seen has used a two-post lift.
  3. Alright, I received my leak off test kit today. I’ve just tried it on, and I can’t fault the volume going back to the tank, and all are similar in volume. I’ve tried replacing the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel metering valve, because the rail is still having trouble reaching a good pressure range, but to no avail. Still doesn’t start even if it reaches a good pressure range in the rail. Can the pump internals be broken enough to not be able to produce pressure reliably even though the springs in the pump are ok? I’ve tried going though Fords diagnosing list: - low fuel in the tank: it’s ¾ full, and it is diesel - fuel filter element blocked: it isn’t (it is brand new), and I’m able to prime the system no problem. No air as well. - fuel lines damaged or blocked: all lines are clear, no visible air or fuel leaks - air ingress into the fuel lines: there isn’t any air up until the pump, and I’ve tried cracking the lines to the injectors to clear any air in the rail - glow plugs: one glow plug has no resistance, the rest have >1 ohm. Shouldn’t affect it that much? - incorrect valve timing: no skipped teeth on belt, timing ok. - low cylinder compression: I’m beginning to believe so. Doesn’t sound like there’s much when cranking. Still waiting on the test kit. - crankshaft position sensor: wiring ok, gives a signal but can’t be sure it’s right since I didn’t use an oscilloscope. - camshaft position sensor: same as above - pcm: probably my best bet if it has compression - frp sensor: it’s readings are true - fuel pump fuel pressure regulator: tried changing today, no change as mentioned. - fuel pump: might be. Springs are ok though. - fuel injectors: might be? Doesn’t seem to leak excessively though. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  4. I've tested the cam and crank sensor today, which seemed fine. A summary of what I've done: Fuel feed line filter>pump, not blocked. Fuel return line pump>filter, not blocked. Fuel filter is primed and is not blocked. New was installed. Timing ok, no skipped teeth on belt, belt ok. HPFP springs are ok. Cam lobe driving the pump is ok, not cracked or any play. Injectors are getting fuel. Fuel rail has pressure according to ForScan. Cam and crank sensor ok, measured with multimeter but seemed fine. Other than waiting for the compression and leak-off test sets, I don't know what to do. 😅
  5. Hi nicam, yeah I've seen it, and in my last message, that was what I meant when I said the camshaft driving the HPFP was ok. It wasn't cracked and there wasn't any play in it. I somehow got some air out of the system, which made the pump produce fuel pressure again. No luck on it starting, though. Didn't even sound like it was catching on. I've attached scan data from cranking. And I've ordered equipment for doing an injector leak-off test, and a compression test. Other than that, I don't have many ideas as what to do, other than it might be the crankshaft sensor, causing the injectors not to open. But that should leave a DTC, right? I'm open for ideas, though!
  6. Alright, I tried to take a closer look at the pump etc. and I’ve removed it for inspection, and everything looks fine. No skipped teeth on the belt, timing was ok and the cam driving the pump wasn’t broken and didn’t budge, and springs in the pump were still springy. This leaves me even more stumped, and I can’t think of what to look at next..
  7. Unfortunately I haven’t got one. Got a pretty good multimeter though, will that work? Couldn’t imagine it being a problem with the lines, would be a gaping hole for the pump not to create any rail pressure at all, right? But it bothers me there’s no pressure, since there was (according to the sensor) before I changed the filter. Do you think I could have ruined a valve or something with the vacuum when priming? It was quite strong
  8. Yeah, I am, my rag was soaked after cranking with the feed tube off. I think the system is primed, sounded like it was going to start for half a second when I cranked it, but after that half a second, all I got was starter whine
  9. Alright, I’ve just tried cranking with the FMV and the injectors electrical connections off, and the FRP is at 430, just like it is when I’m not cranking. RPM was at 319 now. Don’t know what to make of it
  10. There is an air bubble right before the pump, between the pump and the bleed valve. I’ve considered putting the old filter back, but I have no trouble sucking fuel from it, if I create a vacuum on the feed pipe, which leads me to believe it’s fine. Same part number on the old one anyway.. The drain plug is tight as well The starter gives 311 RPM, so I think it’s fine as well. What’s the IMV/FMV an abbreviation for?
  11. Problem is that I’m not sure how comfortable I am with cranking with a dry pump.. but I’ve tried a couple of times anyhow, and zilch happens. I can see that the fuel that’s in the clear lines doesn’t move when cranking, and forscan only reports 420 kPa rail pressure. Before the filter change, I got 23.000-34.000 kPa in the rail when cranking. I’ll keep the glow plug fuse thing in mind, thanks!
  12. Sorry, forgot to mention it’s a 2.0 TDCi from 2008. I’m using a strong vacuum pump rated for priming diesels, and I’m using ForScan with a ELM327 cable. Since my last reply, I've also tried blowing through the return line, which wasn't blocked either. I then tried taking the feed line from the HPFP off, but it still holds the vacuum. So must be the pump itself, I suppose? The system is primed all the way from filter to the fuel inlet pipe in front of the HPFP
  13. Alright; an update. I’ve managed to take the fuel line to the HPFP off and blow it through, doesn’t seem to be blocked. However, I still can’t bleed the car? I’m able to get a lite per minute if I prime through the fuel feed line, but when I do on the return line, nothing. I’m stumped, since the regulator seems to be working.. What else could block it? All input appreciated!
  14. Hey all, I’ve recently bought a Mondeo mark 4 for a steal, but it’s not driveable at the moment. I started diagnosing when I got it, and it was a crank, no start type of deal. No errors saved, but the previous owner told me it had a code for low fuel pressure before. After some research, I decided to change the fuel filter, but when I went to prime the system, jack-all happened. I’m able to create a strong vacuum on the return line, but I’m only getting a couple of millilitres per second. The lead me to test the fuel regulator valve, but it’s operation seems normal. It closes when it gets current. I’ve tried opening the valve just before the HPFP, which lets me suck the air I introduced out. So I’m thinking that the blockage is before the valve, between the fuel supply connection and the valve. So my question is; how do I remove the fuel connection on the pump to blow the line clean? Any ideas are also appreciated, I’m itching to take it for a spin. Cheers!
  15. Hey guys, When I got in my car today to take a drive, it took some extra revolutions to get it started, but I didn't think more of it. Drove it for a kilometer, and then the dash lighted up, starting to beep at me, saying "engine temperature high" – fair enough, I pulled over to let it cool down, thinking the temp. valve was stuck closed, to then limp it back home. I popped the hood, and both radiator hoses were hot, though. Anyway, I managed to get it home again, but when I cranked it later on, it wouldn't turn over. Sounds completely fine when cranking though, and it sounds like it's not low on compression. No DTCs either. However, now I'm kind of at a loss. Any ideas as though why it would overheat (in less than 1km, no less) and then later refuse to turn over, would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!