Fixitdaily

Budding Enthusiast
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    14
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About Fixitdaily

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ben
  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cornwall
  1. Perhaps it’s the superstitious amoungnts us. The 13 part. Oh well. The fun continues
  2. Interesting - I have read comments on the internet “2013 worst year for Ford electrics “
  3. Nope - no tow bar, fairly basic spec by the looks of it. Nothing noticeably on, and no voltage drop across any fuse ( even the cartridge ones as I popped the tops off ) - the only fuse with a 1.1mV drop is fuse11 ( a pink 30 amp cartridge type ) in the engine bay box that relates to the VQM. But even 1.1mV only = 212mA and that drain goes when the car finally goes to sleep. ***** thing. I don’t think during all these flat batteries, jumps starts, battery replacements etc the BMS has ever been reset - I’ve done it now after charging the battery up
  4. Wow - on this car. Park up, turn off. Disconnect battery and set up meter etc. Lock car on key. 1.4amps for 10mins, then 500mA for another 30 mins. Eventually the car will go to sleep and appears to draw 40-60mA the entire time. Ignoring the fault the lowest it draws after extended periods is 40mA. I would think yeah 10mA at rest is bang on. So this car has got a gremlin in it thanks for your top advice and assistance
  5. That’s the spirit - aren’t Monday’s great !
  6. One of the downsides of modern, interconnect vehicle management systems I suppose. Well, the local ford main agent had it for over 2 weeks and couldn’t find the issue. so, maybe I could go back with my findings, see if it gives them a clue. Removing the instrument cluster fuse gave a slightly different test result to when I disconnected the IC. Fuse removal 59mA average draw when “asleep”, but with IC disconnected 40mA draw. With it all connected up it would randomly spike and draw 200-400mA for split seconds but I would never catch it
  7. Ok, instrument cluster disconnected - didn’t exceed 40mA for the entire test. Conclusion - intermettitent draw originating in instrument cluster ? Or do you not agree Ben
  8. Ok - cluster out, car on test. See what she’s like after 6 hours thanks
  9. Thanks - yes that would be amazing having a comparison so if you didn’t mind checking your car that would be a great help. Yes stop start works - why’s that ? Think I will carry out same text but with instrument cluster unplugged. Thanks
  10. yes mate, i appreciate all the advice - No, as far as i know the bms was not reset - i assume this is just done through diagnostics ?? Yes, i will remove cluster to confirm results that removing the fuse did. Is it that easy to remove is it ? it won't need any special treatment when refitting ? Im new to fords and so please excuse me
  11. I appreciate the feedback guys, but wondered where i could obtain actual ford figures for permissible battery drain whilst "asleep" - I know that " as a rule of thumb", "im pretty sure", "i think" is quite helpful, and in many respects i agree, but modern cars and modern CAN system sometimes draw a bizarre amount of power at rest and I've read figures that are just ridiculous for other manufacturers but are perfectly within spec - but yes i agree 50mA sounds on the high side. Battery is a brand new unit, supplied by local ford main agent ( varta battery with a ford sticker ) 60AH Anyway, after continuing testing today - method of leaving gauge attached recording high, low and average and "disabling" systems via fuse removal ( yes i know as per previous post fuse removal isn't a sure fire way to disable a can component ) - Interior motion sensor fuse - no change Alarm back up battery and OBD fuse - no change Bluetooth, infotainment system fuse - no change Voltage quality module - no change Instrument cluster - 50mA average for well over 6 hours Now, all the other systems within that 6 hour test period ( this period begins when car has fully fallen "asleep", which does take 30-45mins ) - the other readings had spiked at 300mA on average. Until the cars fully "asleep" it seems to draw 1-2amps on average - then after 30-45mins it drops to the 50mA average ( ignoring the intermittent fault that is ) So, the questions are - Where can i obtain a ford spec for permissible battery draw - just in the interest of accuracy Have you seen, heard, or experienced issues with the instrument cluster not shutting down correctly is this a hardware issue, OR would it require software update / reset or similar ? Strange one ay - but i think the noose is tightening now Ben
  12. Thank you for your advice - would do say that on this model of car a draw on 50-60 mA “normal” - my battery drain times are much quicker so I’m hunting a larger sporadic draw 300mA by the look of it
  13. Hi, please forgive me any ***** ups - this is my first post. Im willing to learn I have a 2013 focus Ecoboost. It has 34K on the clock. I gather after doing a google search and some detective work that 2013 was a pretty bad year for focus electrics - at least im not alone. Battery goes flat after approx. a week., sometimes less. Ive researched this until im sick to the back teeth. The car unfortunately spends long periods without being driven and i appreciate that this carries its own risks. The battery is new, tests okay etc, the alternator is working correctly. Carrying out some long term amp draw readings (like over 2 days 3 nights continual ) i appear to get an average of 50mA draw or so when the cars " asleep" - it seems to take 30mins for the car to shut down correctly - up until then something seems to draw 2amps. ( doors locks bonnet up but ive flicked the bonnet catch across so its "shut" Then, occasionally without any warning the car briefly spikes to drawing 300mA - i can never catch it in the act, and so cant do a voltage drop test across the fuses - annoying. But the meter records spikes Firstly - whats the design battery draw when resting ? rule of thumb is 35-50mA but is there an actual spec ? The voltage quality module seems to draw power for quite a long time until it eventually shuts down ( 40 mins or so ) is this normal it seems to draw 2 amps, sometimes none and this is without even starting the car. Ive pulled the bluetooth system fuse - no change the interior lights ive manually turned off - no change radio receiver fuse pulled - no change no fault codes or running issues - everything seems to work My only plan now is to carry out the same test with various systems deactivated via the fuse the internet is awash with miss information about this - people suggesting this and that. Whats the real most likely cause ? Even 50mA seems alot - thats over 1.2 amps in 24 hrs, thats 8.4amps a week - thanks guys - Ben