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WireyWhenWet last won the day on April 21 2019

WireyWhenWet had the most liked content!

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About WireyWhenWet

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    Feet Under The Table

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  • Ford Model
    Focus 2.0 TDCI
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
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    Motorsport & Racing
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    West Yorkshire

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  1. Oo-er matron! 😅 The issue I have is the gap for the holder that you show there is a little too wide for the housing of the light units, the 'guide' for the plastic to go on to is really thin compared to the older Foci models from what I can tell, so the adatper/holder itself doesn't actually slide on to the housing and stay there, if at all depending on the adapter. I've got a set of these on the way anyways to play with now so will see. This car is a right pain in the jacksie for the light holders...!
  2. I've got a set of Philips Ultinon Gen2 that I've been faffing with for about a year now, I've got the mk3.5 ST and cant find a good adapter for love nor money anywhere, if you could throw a few pics up that'd be brilliant and massively appreciated, pretty sure at this point its looking to be more like user error in fairness...!
  3. For what its worth, I just bagged a Vauxhell one for a friend from Halfords as they price match ECP, ECP happens to have loads of the Haynes gear and the SUN50 code they had on at the weekend worked for the manuals in my basket and took themdown to £10.02 each- I was next door to Halfords at the time so popped in and had a word, showed them the forum card as well to see if it helped but the lad just said yeah we can do that and bipped it in for a tenner. Showed him this which he glossed over quite quickly, which I really don't blame him for.. I'm now looking to get the missus one now I think.. 🙃 https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/haynes-women-s-car-diy-964770441
  4. Two things one very very common to the mk2/2.5; cluster. The main cluster is a known problem area whereby the soldered joints and lines on the actual PCB are known to crack with exposure to changing temps, its a relatively straightforward fix for someone with half an ounce of soldering ability but not one I'd suggest for the inexperienced DIY'er with no prior similar projects. Google mk2 focus cluster solder fault and you'll find aplenty of hits and videos on the topic. Second and arguably the easier of the two, the symptoms you describe are EXACTLY how my 1.6 went when the Crank Position Sensor gave up. Random power offs, wierd warnings, etc. But for me no just 'dashes' on the dash, which would lead me to point more to the cluster fault. The sensor itself isn't difficult to get at, its a little tedious but can be done with the assistance of a nearby kerb to give you a bit of clearance to get under the front. Mine was caused by a very poor clutch change where the garage damaged various components, but ultimately loosened the wrong things which caused the actual mould that the sensor sits in to become loose and the bolt to go freeflight into the clutch housing.. Only around 7 quid a sensor for the 1.6, I wouldn't expect much more for the 1.4. For reference, the sensor for mine looks like the pic, minus the banana bolt thats stuck to it.. (Sensor is a magnet so actually brought it out for me which saved a full take apart..)
  5. 2015 Focus, similar issue. Hotter weather seems to make it just maliable enough for it to not solidly hold on its 'rails', colder isn't an issue unless its been sat wrongly from heat, but its a real annoyance and it interferes with the way I route my phone cables.
  6. Okay for reference as this seems to be a quite rare issue, but one which has been asked a few times on the 'net, Following a couple of weeks of normal driving, both front and rear left (pass) sidelights have come back to life; the only thing I can think is that the bcm or something has restored its values from lights being off for an extended period (The missus doesn't do much driving that needs lights on), or a module has reset, be that from low voltage or just somehow it refreshing its memory. I haven't changed any fuses for new, and haven't reset anything manually so would assume the issue of one side being out (despite having working bulbs and good contacts) is software controlled, so for anyone looking to resolve this it might be worth checking Forscan and refreshing modules to see if that helps. Perhaps this helps someone in the future!
  7. Still at a loss with this one, does anyone happen to have the wiring diagrams for the sidelight circuits they could share at all? Anything like that would be very much appreciated! 👍
  8. I have aftermarket on an ST2 and this isn't uncommon, if raining. Usually going back to neutral and into reverse again helps as the rain water has normally shifted, but if not its usually when a little grubby too. They're more sensitive to things when a little moist.. On a Tit-X with factory, this happens less in the wet but when it does it seems to be more of an issue with ingress on at least one sensor, as shifting out and back in to reverse doesn't always clear it for at least a couple of goes. I think its just more unfortunate design than a 'fault specifically. Annoying at times though. Might be worth giving them all a good once over with a makeup brush and some cleaner, and potentially treat them with something hydrophobic to help water bead off and not stick.
  9. Another alternative; is it only on low rpm, but more intermittent as if only occurring over bumpy bits in the road? If so, lower arm bushes are a likely candidate. They can tweet like he'll if left to it. Otherwise if more consistent then sounds bearing/pulley/belt related from that brief description
  10. I can confirm my ST2, a Tit-X and an ST3 with sony gubbins all have the same kit 👍
  11. On an older car like that the smoke is probably a result of a few things and may be not really related, but if fuelling is an issue it can be a sign. Fuel filter is the most common fault, they get gummy and can't supply enough flow through to keep up with the engine, thus the ecu drops power to ensure no damage. Another thing to check would be MAF sensor, just on the pipework from the airbox - this could be having issues if a little mucky, giving bad signals to the ecu for how much air is going in which in turn causes it to turn off turbo, etc. To prevent damage if its outside of what is expected. Whilst there, air filter is another to just give a once over - Make sure it seals well and is clean enough; not a difficult one at all to have a look at. Overall though it does sound fuel related primarily.
  12. Generally speaking the split to passenger vs driver is slightly passenger biased on the Focus when flow is taken in to account from the AC to the vent at least, not much but if low on gas, enough to make a little difference. If a lot, then I would definitely be interested to make sure there were no blockages along the way. (Checkout your cabin filter for good measure as well, just good practice but sometimes helps with this as the AC can get cold air fed back to it causing the pump to cut out as it thinks its too cold in the cabin, so it doesn't cool down anywhere near as quickly depending on settings). A hiss fromtit being on isn't unusual, however if consistent its a characteristic of low gas in the system, when you get chance to take it for a look over just have a recharge on it to see; mine drew 163mg out (the shut off for my unit is 160mg, my sensor read it as extremely low and stopped it going cold) and was able to put 620mg in. I had the hiss and a good deal of cold days before it packed up but it was just a recharge that was needed. With them being sat not used for a while the gas can seep some, albeit not much at all unless there's issues, but overall people neglect the AC system and a little use here and there and check ups now and then help them to last for quite some time. Kwik Fit for example have a decent machine for this (read: Foolproof...) so if you've got one near by I'd say its worth a trip.
  13. Potentially an option as well, have you tried the AutoDoc app? I've just picked up a Gates timing kit from there for the other half's Fiesta for less than I would expect to pay in the UK.
  14. Cheers, but I've already seen that one I'm afraid and searched the forum; the issue for me is the left side front and rear sidelights are out, the right side are working fine. F22 has been swapped but is in working order.
  15. Does anyone happen to know if the sidelights are fused to individual sides as they are with the dipped and main beam lights? Did a passenger sidelight bulb replacement the other day but didn't realise the other half had left the ignition on, as I replaced the bulb it flickered, but didn't pop. I've now lost both front and rear left side sidelights, the tail bulb is intact as well being dual element, but no power to the sidelight at all. The manual doesn't claim that they are fused to one side or the other, but I can't actually find a relevant fuse to check