WireyWhenWet

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WireyWhenWet last won the day on April 21 2019

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About WireyWhenWet

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    Feet Under The Table

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Sam
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 2.0 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2015
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Computers & Electronics
    Sports & Leisure

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  • Location
    West Yorkshire

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  1. 2015 Focus, similar issue. Hotter weather seems to make it just maliable enough for it to not solidly hold on its 'rails', colder isn't an issue unless its been sat wrongly from heat, but its a real annoyance and it interferes with the way I route my phone cables.
  2. Okay for reference as this seems to be a quite rare issue, but one which has been asked a few times on the 'net, Following a couple of weeks of normal driving, both front and rear left (pass) sidelights have come back to life; the only thing I can think is that the bcm or something has restored its values from lights being off for an extended period (The missus doesn't do much driving that needs lights on), or a module has reset, be that from low voltage or just somehow it refreshing its memory. I haven't changed any fuses for new, and haven't reset anything manually so would assume the issue of one side being out (despite having working bulbs and good contacts) is software controlled, so for anyone looking to resolve this it might be worth checking Forscan and refreshing modules to see if that helps. Perhaps this helps someone in the future!
  3. Still at a loss with this one, does anyone happen to have the wiring diagrams for the sidelight circuits they could share at all? Anything like that would be very much appreciated! 👍
  4. I have aftermarket on an ST2 and this isn't uncommon, if raining. Usually going back to neutral and into reverse again helps as the rain water has normally shifted, but if not its usually when a little grubby too. They're more sensitive to things when a little moist.. On a Tit-X with factory, this happens less in the wet but when it does it seems to be more of an issue with ingress on at least one sensor, as shifting out and back in to reverse doesn't always clear it for at least a couple of goes. I think its just more unfortunate design than a 'fault specifically. Annoying at times though. Might be worth giving them all a good once over with a makeup brush and some cleaner, and potentially treat them with something hydrophobic to help water bead off and not stick.
  5. Another alternative; is it only on low rpm, but more intermittent as if only occurring over bumpy bits in the road? If so, lower arm bushes are a likely candidate. They can tweet like he'll if left to it. Otherwise if more consistent then sounds bearing/pulley/belt related from that brief description
  6. I can confirm my ST2, a Tit-X and an ST3 with sony gubbins all have the same kit 👍
  7. On an older car like that the smoke is probably a result of a few things and may be not really related, but if fuelling is an issue it can be a sign. Fuel filter is the most common fault, they get gummy and can't supply enough flow through to keep up with the engine, thus the ecu drops power to ensure no damage. Another thing to check would be MAF sensor, just on the pipework from the airbox - this could be having issues if a little mucky, giving bad signals to the ecu for how much air is going in which in turn causes it to turn off turbo, etc. To prevent damage if its outside of what is expected. Whilst there, air filter is another to just give a once over - Make sure it seals well and is clean enough; not a difficult one at all to have a look at. Overall though it does sound fuel related primarily.
  8. Generally speaking the split to passenger vs driver is slightly passenger biased on the Focus when flow is taken in to account from the AC to the vent at least, not much but if low on gas, enough to make a little difference. If a lot, then I would definitely be interested to make sure there were no blockages along the way. (Checkout your cabin filter for good measure as well, just good practice but sometimes helps with this as the AC can get cold air fed back to it causing the pump to cut out as it thinks its too cold in the cabin, so it doesn't cool down anywhere near as quickly depending on settings). A hiss fromtit being on isn't unusual, however if consistent its a characteristic of low gas in the system, when you get chance to take it for a look over just have a recharge on it to see; mine drew 163mg out (the shut off for my unit is 160mg, my sensor read it as extremely low and stopped it going cold) and was able to put 620mg in. I had the hiss and a good deal of cold days before it packed up but it was just a recharge that was needed. With them being sat not used for a while the gas can seep some, albeit not much at all unless there's issues, but overall people neglect the AC system and a little use here and there and check ups now and then help them to last for quite some time. Kwik Fit for example have a decent machine for this (read: Foolproof...) so if you've got one near by I'd say its worth a trip.
  9. Potentially an option as well, have you tried the AutoDoc app? I've just picked up a Gates timing kit from there for the other half's Fiesta for less than I would expect to pay in the UK.
  10. Cheers, but I've already seen that one I'm afraid and searched the forum; the issue for me is the left side front and rear sidelights are out, the right side are working fine. F22 has been swapped but is in working order.
  11. Does anyone happen to know if the sidelights are fused to individual sides as they are with the dipped and main beam lights? Did a passenger sidelight bulb replacement the other day but didn't realise the other half had left the ignition on, as I replaced the bulb it flickered, but didn't pop. I've now lost both front and rear left side sidelights, the tail bulb is intact as well being dual element, but no power to the sidelight at all. The manual doesn't claim that they are fused to one side or the other, but I can't actually find a relevant fuse to check
  12. I'm on a few groups, for brakes the general recommendation for the STs comes out as MTec for discs, have you had a look at them at all? Well worth a look!
  13. Diesel or petrol? Check for any leaks or smoke on the engine top when warm, have someone help with revving a bit as well. Also see if the cabin filter has been replaced, more air in to the cabin can push some funky smells around, so worth a check anyway and often neglected. Any pattern in particular or just when you gun it a bit? I know that the diesel one is usually worth checking the injectors when pushed they tend to smell a little and push diesel out if the seals are a bit off. Finally, is the source of it up front or toward the rear?
  14. I have recently ordered a timing kit for the other half's Fiesta, worked out well for me as I got to choose brand, and not have to really go anywhere as I have a newborn. Took 5 days to arrive following post out from Germany which makes 8 days total, and all is correct for me. I wasnt sure of which brand parts GSF or ECP would supply but for the sakes of it being a tad cheaper in this case and getting what I wanted I was happy. It's kinda like a car enthusiast's version of a Wish 😅 But yeah, all in all it's been genuine for me and I've not had my bank cleaned out from it. *If you're new, feel free to use my discount code for a few quid off: AC31827557
  15. Very true, on many cars the differences can be quite negligible, in fact on some it can even have quite a negative impact on performance, a fair amount of Japanese cars suffer in this regard but that's more a sign of a better designed air intake system which is made very specifically for a particular engine and its map is very specific to working with certain air pressures. In my experience, the higher flow rate gives me a lot more lower-mid to upper-mid responsiveness, to the point that the missus even asked me what I'd changed (She hates me messing with her brum.. 😇). On the focus, ikostly get a lot more noise and I get a bit more top end, but overall I'd say it's a really close match for the paper one, if even having the paper one potentially be a little better off for it a tad lower down than the K&N. Unfortunately it's a lot of try it and see as many cars and driving.styles are very different. Dynos can show a little change to power output, but overall the butt-dyno and general driving will help you feel exactly where is different for responsiveness, and its surprising how much of a difference that can be for such a small change on a graph. As for the ECU, I've found that on the Focus, resetting it with Forscan when cha going filters helps the relearn process along some, as it gets a fresh set of numbers to work with rather than deeply set ones where a filter change is going to differ enough for it to throw a bit if a wobbler, and tell you something is up.. The joys of modern sensors on a car 🤔😅