WireyWhenWet

FOC Supporters
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WireyWhenWet last won the day on April 21

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About WireyWhenWet

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Sam
  • Ford Model
    Focus Zetec mk2.5
  • Ford Year
    2009
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Computers & Electronics
    Sports & Leisure

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258 profile views
  1. Many thanks for those! I've been looking at the options and have seen some pretty funky ideas, some doodads on Amazon and what not are inflatable half-mattess delays that fill the rear footwell area and back seats, but this is definitely more for kids or a single person to crash on.. I've been thinking of knocking up a slate of my or something to fit the back with the seats dropped to span the length, with a few off cuts at the boot end to level it out and just stick a foam/air mattress on that for the more luxury option.. The other thought was to just take the rear seats out entirely for the trip and keep it flat, bung the air mattress in and have that be it for the sakes of frugality, and could fill the footwells with out bags anyway as that'll all be soft stuff. I've got a in having factory tinted glass already, (although I do need to replace the OSR one as have just done a door swap), so that helps with privacy, and I'm 5'11, Miss Wirey is more carry-on friendly so that's a bonus too. I'll update this as info for if it helps anyone, but by all means people please keep ideas coming!
  2. Had something similar when I did my front springs the other week, both were seized and spent about two hours cutting and grinding one off before I actually had a 'You tit' moment.. Easiest way I found for removal was blast with WD and scrub the threaded area with a steel brush to clean off some of the rust, the more the better. If its seized both top and bottom then if possible, cut the bar in the middle, or pop the ball end off by prying it away from the thread. If you cut the bar, you can just twist and pull a half of the bar off and that'll leave the seized nut and a ball left. Now, take a pair of GOOD vice-grips and lock them on each side. Apply a good amount of elbow grease and you should be able to twist off and unscrew. Generally alot easier with the hub dropped from the strut, but of course if seized dont worry too much - Get the brake disk off if you need extra room to work. Hope that helps!
  3. Okay Focii guys, here's one for you... Ford Focus Mk2.5, hatchback. I do alot of miles and alot of things, in about a month's time I'm racing up in Windermere for a charity event and our team has opted to camp the night before; I have tents etc.. and am no stranger to lugging a full car and roof rack for 1000s of miles, but I've had the bright idea of Top Gear-ing it and having two of us sleep in the car to save some effort and do it a bit differently. Hopefully to save dragging so much kit as we only need a couple of bits for the event really.. I've looked into this before and have seen universal mattresses, custom stuff, etc. But has anyone actually done this, and if so how, and how did you find it? Would you recommend or avoid anything in particular? As I said, odd one! But any advice is much appreciated- Got an open mind to this one!
  4. I've gone from 16 to 17 and now to 18 on my mk2.5, for what it's worth my experiences are as follows: Running 16" (205/55/16) was comfortable and very cheap. Not excessively soft by any means with a mixed bag of tyres and then I upgraded to the Michelin CrossClimates. What a tyre they are... The grip is nuts! However they were a tad on the wallow-y side for me when brand new. Absorbed everything, mind! But these are currently sat waiting for snow or muddy days.. Too good to sell on imo but I wanted the aesthetics. My old mk2 was written off, enter the mk2.5 with 17 as standard as part of the sport pack. 205 50 17 to be specific, I found these okay, but surprisingly susceptible to tramlining (tyres..) and quite loud when compared to the 16s, I was happy with the looks but the tyre availability or lack of was a killer, I ended up with Goodyear EfficientGrip on the back (Great rubber, quiet but not cheap!) And in a rush I ran Falken ZE914 up front. The Falkens were WAY heavier and louder than anything before, and I regret those. I did run all 4 Goodies for a bit until two had to be replaced, and I couldn't fault them but ***** hell 205 50 17 is a hard tyre to buy, and seriously not cheap. I looked at dropping back to 16s when I found the I had a slightly warped front left, but 'browsing' I chanced across some DIRT CHEAP 18" Mondeo rims that i couldn't pass up. No tyres, and needed a refurb but all 4 and refurb cost me less than one same style used 17 so I pulled the trigger. Tyre wise, much much more selection for 225 40 18, and a hell of a lot cheaper than I thought. I found a very well rated (quiet) Roadstone Eurovis Sport SU04 listing online cheap and then realized that's actually how cheap they are.. Did slot of reading up here, I like my brands but I also like bargains, and after reading these were worth a punt. Basically a rebadged Nexen N'fera, which in turn is a pattern very very similar ( if not just an old one) used by Michelin some time ago and back then was rated very highly as well, all the same factory and what not so figured why not. At £38 a corner I expected not alot at all, but something to get by on and wow I was wrong. 18 on these is very very nice. Great grip, and surprisingly very quiet, especially more comfortable than my 17s, but with so much more bite. The extra width makes so much difference I couldn't believe it, and overall the 18 come in a shade LIGHTER than my 17s with Falken on, and just over even compared to the Goodies. Overall the ride quality in general is harsher if the roads are bad, but that's to be expected. They don't accelerate as well as a 16, but good lord I'll take them over my 17s any day. As I said, much more grip (dry and wet) than I was anticipating and a surprising quietness to them, but dont take that as gospel, I haven't had a chance to run anything else on the 18s yet, I'm about 9k in on the tyres and about to rotate, and still have over half left up front so it could be a while.. But yeah, 16 is great, and cheap. Very common tyre sizes to boot, 17 are a pain and to me at least, weren't worth it despite looking a lot better overall. I'm sticking with my 18s now though until a bad winter comes in at least, these are great for me and suit both the car and my driving style very well. I dont miss the slightly lesser acceleration to be fair either, it hasn't made too much impact, but I know where it is and isn't present so just adjust gears to suit. Lengthy, but hope that helps someone.
  5. Definitely great to hear it's nothing major!
  6. Bung a takeaway tub (or something sizable enough) where the stain is to catch the offending drops overnight, just make sure you park in the same place to know where to put it! I did this and learned after a couple of days (Yeah.. days...) that I'm better duct taping the tub in place because of the wind.. Blu tac works as well if you have enough, but a few stones in the tub to weigh it down means it still gets blown about.. Just for something to try? You'll see better what it actually is, and also how much there is as well to know how much of a concern to give about it ^_^
  7. Funnily enough I'm actually doing this with a colleague at work for almost the exact same reasons... First thing to be aware of, did the refurb place use TPMS compatible valves? Chances are if it's a wheel specialist and not a general garage they just popped in a new valve for you of their stock, without thinking about it. If it's been a couple of days one person may have taken them off and another put them on, no questions or thoughts about TPMS. Secondly, again if not in the know, theres actually a tool you/ a garage would need to use to get the TPMS unit in the valve to communicate with the car when in sync mode, if you have a look on Amazon for example, the cheaper one (~£9?) Is all you need, a wand with a button. A dealer can charge quite a heft for that so don't go blindly into it being told it's a big thing, heck replacement valves are usually £95 for OEM but you again can get equivalent online for ~£15. The process itself involves the car 'relearning' which TPMS is for which wheel, and the pressures they run so it could even be a case that the wheel distances have changed and confused the car (OSF to NSR for example). A garage with a tool could do it pretty quickly and cheaply and would normally (in my experience) charge about £5-10 per wheel to sync, but FWIW if the garage took them off the car working, I'd ask them to check if they took them out and replaced with normal, and if they still have them. Otherwise a new TPMS and tool isn't too much, but at the same point it's not a big cost to them to rectify either 😉
  8. +1 to both of the above! Never twigged about the additional box(es)...
  9. Is there any chance you could try swapping over the front light assembly to prove it isnt the switch at fault? It's odd that it doesnt work on auto, do the other interior lights function as expected?
  10. That's pretty worrying, I've seen mine hit an hour and 30, but if it's on all the time it's either going to be a barrel, or the cluster itself that is draining.. I'd be confident to faff with finding a cluster fuse to pull, knowing if a stuff it it's my own fault and that I could probably source what I need pretty quickly, but of course this isn't my car so I can only suggest what I'd be looking for and warn you to be cautious really.. But to me the root here sound like it's the cluster itself more at face value.. This might sound daft too, but the clutch pedal has a switch that when engaged will trip the cluster into thinking the car is about to be turned on, maybe this is something to look at too? Just fyi, if you merely unlock and relock the car without firing it, the cluster stays on a LOT longer than if it was 'driven'- some kind of Ford party trick there :$
  11. It may be worth checking your interior lights, including and especially the boot one(s) as the boot switch can become faulty. Got any LEDs? Check them when it's dark to see if they're staying on VERY dimly at all when everything else is off, I've found the interior lights stay on a little while at least when the car is off unless the switches are physically off. You'll probably notice the cluster light stays on for 30-45mins after the car is off and locked, but that might be another thing to keep tabs on; the ignition barrel can wear and if you have a faulty barrel it can cause the cluster to stay on.
  12. Can you force the issue when driving slowly, e.g. low revs, backing up, going lock to lock.. And is it a mechanical or electrical sound?
  13. Something sounds definitely off there, was the release bearing changed at the same time? That almost sounds like the clutch itself is too big or very incorrectly mounted, that noise to me would suggest its catching on the housing more than anything but it's open game at this point without hearing / seeing it etc. Good luck hope it's all sorted quickly!
  14. Ahhh sorry, I misread and thought you'd wanted the trims to have something on them- my bad! Have you thought about making or adapting them somehow? Stick some jam jar lids together etc.. lol! In all fairness I'm sure a project like that would make an interesting guide for here, I don't think I've come across anyone who has attempted it yet so might be something for the slower evenings to play with? 🙂
  15. Have you considered a set of centre hub stickers at all? I've just got a few for the Focus, but I run ST220 18's so the caps aren't exactly common to find something different for. Changed the colour and picked up these for mine.. Not everyones taste but more for the comic appeal ^_^