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WireyWhenWet last won the day on April 21

WireyWhenWet had the most liked content!

About WireyWhenWet

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    Settling In Well

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  • First Name
  • Ford Model
    Focus Zetec mk2.5
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
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  1. Always a good result, cheap and pretty straight forward!
  2. Fwiw, this is my 1.6 petrol. Sounds worse on camera but it's just tappets/lifters. Mines not in the best of health really but it's okay. For the diesels I've seen first hand some of the oil additives can be good to quieter them off a bit, such as the sea foam that the Americans use, we have a similar one from Wynns (I forget the actual product) and Halfords have it for about £5. Worth a go for so little if it botheres you!
  3. Hmm Lifter/tappet type sound similar to my petrol 1.6, just a bit heavier.
  4. The front exhaust mount from the down pipe is most likely to be at fault, usually the hanger will rust through and drop lower but still 'look' okay without having it jacked up and being able to get a proper shove on it. Majority of Focus 'clunks' when accelerating end up being that bounty allowing the jerk of the car to shift the down pipe just enough for it to knock the sub frame, making it sound a heck of alot worse that it actually is. 20 quid at a local to weld'erup should do it if that's the case!
  5. Well, this is the one! I can confirm for anyone with this issue on the future, it was indeed the CPS, and it had basically worn away at the end of the sensor itself by being ground off by the teeth inside the engine casing. There is a plate that the sensor bolts on to on the 1.6 petrol model which should be solidly in place, but somehow on mine it happened to have worked it's way free of its mount, thus sending the sensor into the teeth. I swapped it out not realizing the tolerances were that bad, and shredded the new one, but luckily enough not bad enough for it to become unusable. For the time being I have welded the plate tight-up to the casing with quick-steel, and shimmer out the sensor for the time being until further dismantling and time allows. Many thanks to all here, @Mods, I realize I have posted this same answer in my other topic, but I'm going with the basis that the two could be separate issues to someone, one to check the CPS and one to 'fix' the mounting issue if it comes up on anyone in the future. Hope this helps someone in years to come! 👍
  6. Guys, thank you so much. As always, this forum is the way forward! Given the time and lack of tools I have I was hoping that this wouldn't have been the case, despite knowing it would be on the inside. Massive massive thank you for that screenshot -very much appreciated! So I actually admit I didn't see this post, however great minds think alike! I've basically had to quick-steel it 'in' as you mentioned, then have shimmed out the replacement sensor for now so that I get ignition timing and all seems well. The new sensor is definitely worse for wear, but most importantly functional. With regards to where the bilt will eventually go, I'm not sure entirely but it appears as it should drop in to the sump and just live there, i wound imagine it will just roll around in there until I get chance to have it off. Again, really really appreciate everything here guys, very helpful info, and damned hard to find for this motor!
  7. This is the closest thing I can offer to show the 'plate', it's free to move in and out and I don't believe it should
  8. Hey guys, Despite the appalling weather I'm in the middle of replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor on my mk2.5 1.6 petrol, and need a hand. Where the sensor bolts in, there is a kind of round plate between the sensor and the housing of the engine case itself, which I can freely move in and outwards. Does anyone know if there is an alignment to which way this plate should be to stop it moving? I've fitted a new sensor but immediately it's been eaten by the teeth inside as it's too far in. I'd almost say theres something missing, but I can't tell as the original was in the same predicament, and still bolted in tightly. To clarify, The whole unit when bolted in tightly as it should, can be moved in and out with this plate. Any help at all is very very much appreciated!
  9. If it's more of a chirp I'd take a gander at the bushes, most common thing I've come across on the mk2s and the FLs has been the lower arm bushes on the front which does exactly this, as they end up on their way out they chirp over bumps, especially when dry, as if you've just tonked a bird and it let's out a brief squeak- very very specific and recognizable if you ever hear it up front, but not to say it doesn't sound the same at the back!
  10. Many many thanks - very useful, and will check. Alot is pointing to different stuff and I can form a big argument for this.. Cheers! So this actually makes a big bit of sense here... Everything that has happened can be associated with axial or jerking motions; with the expcetion of the EML popping up basically whenever it wants to report a misfire (That doesn't feel to happen..). I'll have a nosey at that for sure. Appreciate it! - Update of the morning, a good run in to work with the exception of a fairly pacey sweeping downhill left, to uphill where in the dip the EML, oil and batt lights flickered as it jumped about for a good 3 or 4 bunny-hops like a proper misfire-stall before picking up again.. No fault code.
  11. 100% with the roundabout thing.. I've never cacked myself as much when I went out before a truck! X__X I'll give it a check, it's just so damn strange. I know my Focii, and this is just odd. Cheers for that! - As always, any other suggestions always appreciated!
  12. I am absolutely baffled with this one.. 2009 Ford Focus Zetec 1.6 Petrol. Just recently prior to doing a full service (Myself, so I know what was done),the EML would blink on occasion when the car would be running steady at say 1500 rpm on 30-40mph roads. The returned code was always P0300, Multiple/Random Cylinder Misfire. <The light would not remain lit, but the car would NOT seem to be misfiring> Following a full service, upgrade to new coil pack, updated HT leads, Iridium plugs, fresh oil and cleaned filter (K&N), the problem still exists, but has been getting ALOT worse in a matter of about two weeks. I now have the same issue, but at any speed and RPM, and under accel/decelleration. It even does it now when idling, and has even blinked without the engine running, reporting the same code.. Heres the scary bit. Two days ago, the same happened and it will do this a few times per trip without fail, however this time when turning specifically right, sharply into a junction or to do a turn in the road, the engine shuts off completely. No shudder, no stall, no lockup, just running, then not running. Of course this is worrying as I lose brakes, and steering, and lights if on. This occurred a few times in the past few days and I can't put my finger on why. Finally, these two days when it has cut out, it usually starts up whilst rolling with a turn of the key but in the past 72 hours it's also occasionally really struggled to start and it turns over but almost as if no spark or fuel. Theres just no kick to it, but then give it 5 and its firing up first turn. Code always returns P0300, but has now today also returned P0336 - Powertrain Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance Can anyone advise? My thoughts are here initially fuel pump, due to the random 'misfire' reports, and the struggle to kick in. I also suspected the power steering pump, as the steering has gotten heavier in these past couple of weeks or so as well, but I'm unsure if that's just me. Second could be the cluster itself having a bad earth, I've never had an issue with it until about a month ago and afaik it's never had any fixes for the common soldering fault. Thirdly, based on the code, P0336, could it be the CPS? I know they throw a bunch of oddities up when they act up. *Bonus fault* Today it's also actually misfired during a run at about 40, pushing the car 2nd to 3rd I replicated the same issue, but these times it's actually either cut out, or I've lost the rev-guage as it freezes and drops to 0 rpm until a restart. I don't think I have a ground fault elsewhere and I have triple checked all connectors I can on the pumps/plugs/rail/MAF/etc. My daily commute is a 30mi round trip so this is a little more concerning than I'd like to admit! So erm yeah.. if this one doesn't stump you I don't know what will! Any suggestions at all would be very much appreciated. Cheers guys!
  13. Oh dear.. I completely didn't even see your pic then....! I must have been on with the other forums and took note of one there- My bad... 🙄
  14. I've been toying with going a bit on the Mountune kinda side, yellow and black, but not sure how to do it 'nicely' without it being too heavy or too much on the looking a bit of a tit end.. Having a silver brum helps for that, but that Aquarius of yours just goes so well with itself on all the little trim bits etc. I kinda miss that colour! PITA for scratches though after a clean.. they'd always just appear from the depths as if by magic!
  15. +1! Messy if the oil escapes on a hot day.. A friend did it and his fell off during a long run.. nice and lubricated under the bonnet and smelled great after! 😁 On another note, what sort of painting are you thinking, @F0CUE was looking at doing something with mine, I just dont know what! I did the lettering on mine with a Posca pen, but really want to do something a little more...