LTIronWolf

Budding Enthusiast
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About LTIronWolf

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Petras
  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk2 1.6 Zetec Focus
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Somerset

Recent Profile Visitors

494 profile views
  1. I found the issue - the small piece of metal shielding that sits between the brake disc and ball joint was bent so it was rubbing against the disc. Bent it back, everything is good now
  2. Yes, I filled up the transmission fluid to spec so that should be all fine
  3. I tried slamming on the brakes while reversing - no good. I’ll jack the car up and see what’s going on. The noise actually subsides when braking, so I think it might be something else. I’ve heard that it might also be the dust cover rubbing against the rotor? It does make a sort of grinding noise when reversing and then squeaking when driving forwards. Here’s a link to the video of me turning the wheel while it’s jacked up: https://streamable.com/tlhwu5
  4. Hello all, After having just changed my clutch I went for a test drive. I immediately noticed that a horrible squeaking sound could be heard whenever I was in motion. I jacked my car up so I could turn my wheel, and noticed that it makes an awful squeaking sound when turning the wheel anticlockwise (as if the car is moving forwards), and only a minor grinding noise when my wheel is turning clockwise (as if going backwards). However, the front right wheel is completely silent when turning in both directions. Is this a sign of the brake pads being worn? The noise wasn’t present before changing my clutch and has only surfaced now
  5. Funnily enough, these are exactly the guides that I've been following. Looks like the procedure is more or less the same for Pre and Facelift?
  6. I've actually got the Haynes manual for my car so you don't need to do that, but thanks anyway! I personally prefer videos of the process as I can see exactly what's going on and I find it more informative, but I'll still resort to the Haynes manual. Potentially a bit of a silly question, but do you need an alignment after a clutch change? Seeing as the front CV axles come out, would this affect the alignment in ant way?
  7. Hi all, quick question - have any of you tackled a clutch change yourself? Any advice to give? The clutch has practically gone on my 2006 Focus at 85k miles - slipping clutch, pedal is dead and loose, and the clutch bites very late so I've taken it upon myself to change the clutch. One thing I wanted to ask was whether there's a mechanical difference between a Mk2 Focus and a Mk2.5 (facelift). I've found a video that details the procedure for a 2010 facelift, but I don't know if there's any difference between Mk2 and Mk2.5 or if I can simply follow the video as the same steps apply.
  8. Hi all, Does anyone know of people turbocharging a Mk2 petrol Focus? I know the Diesel counterparts came with a Turbo from the factory, so I don't see why the petrol models should miss out 😛I'm not looking to make a racing car or necessarily add serious power, it's more of a "for fun" project for street driving. Are there any kits or tutorials for doing this? I don't know if the engine would have to be rebuilt with stronger internals to handle the boost.
  9. I was thinking exactly this. Over the past 2-3 months, it's cycled from minus temperatures to 16C, and it's varied every single day - I wouldn't be surprised if that is what caused it to fail. I reflowed the connectors on the back of the connector, and everything is fine again. I nudged and moved around the IC like last time to check that it's been fixed and everything seems to be fine. I've cleared all DTCs related to connections and I see how I get on over the next few days. Hopefully it stays away for good!
  10. That's interesting, I never actually knew that. Does the PCM connection count as part of the CAN bus? I can't imagine how the car would cope if the PCM were somehow disconnected or interrupted, hypothetically speaking. I have not, but after some testing I've managed to track it down to the cluster itself - always seems to be a problem child with Mk2 Focuses. It seems to be either the connector on the IC itself, or the harness connecting to it that is causing the issue. The problem tends to kick up when I'm driving, and it's very random when it happens. Sometimes it won't, and can even change states a few times in the space of seconds when driving. After poking and moving the cluster a bit while driving, that tends to either cause it to reconnect when displaying "engine malfunction", or it causes it to disconnect when it's running as normal. Leads me to think something isn't making proper contact. When I tested the car at home, I unscrewed the cluster with the harness still attached and played with it while the car was running. I can't properly tell whether it's the connector itself that has bad solder joints or connections, or if there's a break in the wires in the harness that connects - I think it's the former. Is it common for the harness to break or misbehave? I'm going to reflow the solder on my IC connector and see if that fixes it. Keep in mind, this is a facelift cluster with the new layout and design, and was manufactured after the famous 2005 year clusters which were prone to breaking. Is it possible for these to have bad connections as well? I didn't immediately consider an IC problem as I figured the facelift clusters were much more robust than the original ones. Nothing that I can think of, no. The only water that could have possibly gotten in was during the snow 2 weeks ago, when I got into the car with traces of snow on my shoes. This would only be small quantities, and it should have melted into the carpet.
  11. @Tdci-Peter You've been a great help to me in the past. Any ideas this time round?
  12. Hi all, My Focus started to misbehave today out of nowhere, and I’m asking in case anyone has any bright ideas. I have a 2006 Focus with a Facelift cluster and retrofitted cruise control (both mods done by me), after my original cluster died because of the classic pre-facelift problem. Everything was working fine with no issues, and I’ve had no bumps or accidents until I got into my car today to start the car. My cluster started to chime, displaying the messages “engine malfunction - acceleration reduced” however this was very intermittent. The car alternated between not cranking at all whatsoever (dead silence when turning the key), succesfully starting but still showing warnings, or starting succesfully with no warnings whatsoever. I managed to drive the car home safely with no issues other than a check engine light on my cluster the entire journey home. I got home, and after failing to connect to my PCM using FORScan a few times, I finally managed to read the DTCs and all of them were related to CAN bus connectivity or signalling problems. I made a note of all the codes that were present, wiped the DTCs, and re-scanned to see if anything came up - all fine, no issues. The CEL also disappeared so I assume the car was all fine. I went for a drive a few hours later, and during the drive all of my issues came back. The car started fine, but chimed about “engine malfunction” and “acceleration reduced” several times while driving. The cluster would also alternate between the rev counter and speedometer either showing their given values, or dropping to 0. When the messages appeared and the counters dropped, the cluster also showed a CEL, the ABS, oil, and battery lights - it’s like the entire cluster wasn’t communicating with the PCM. The exhaust was also making a deep raspy sound, and the car would occasionally judder, and the accelerator felt like it was stumbling and catching up. Judging by the way the car was behaving and the DTCs I scanned earlier, it seems like the CAN bus is intermittently connecting somewhere, which seems strange as surely the car shouldn’t be able to work if the CAN bus is interrupted? I’ve had CAN issues in the past which I’ve written about previously here, but those were just due to physically loose connections. It has rained and snowed recently - could this have upset the car somehow? Thank you in advance!
  13. I recently upgraded from a pre-FL cluster (the old green one) to a FL cluster (the modern looking orange one). However, the needles are wrong for my revs and speed, and I don't know how to correct them. Do you just manually move the needles by hand? The resting positions when the car is off and the gauge sweep on the hidden service menu indicates the needles are physically out of place. I'd take the windows off the cluster, but I don't know how to do so without breaking the glass as it looks like it's glued on. With the pre-FL cluster, you'd simply remove the entire lens, and you have access to the needles that way. Any suggestions?
  14. Ah I see, so you both use the car and just have a key each? I see what you mean now. Yes, the remote locking system is an entirely different beast, which is something that I didn't know straight away - you can have a key be programmed to the remote locking and not work with PATS, and vice versa. If both keys still work with remote locking, then they should be fine and haven't sustained any damage. It is unusual, but when it comes to PATS I've learned not to question that anything can happen - it's a very temperamental system on Mk2 Focuses that can easily be upset. As for the car not being able to start, it may be that the signal with the key isn't quite there so sometimes it will star and sometimes it doesn't. Think of it as a phone charger with a broken wire at the end - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't and you have to bend it at a certain angle to get it to work. My theory is the same could be with your keys and causing PATS to misbehave, although I'm not sure. What I'd advise now is getting your hands on a laptop with FORScan + an extended license, and an ELM327 cable that has the modified HS-CAN/MS-CAN switch. What you'll want to do is wipe both keys from memory, and reprogram them both in. This should reset everything, and the keys should work again with no room for them being temperamental by transmitting the wrong signal. https://forscan.org/download.html (download page) https://forscan.org/forum/extlic.php (extended license generator) https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=839 (guide on all PATS programming) http://www.autokeyprog.com/login.php (PATS outcode/incode calculator - you'll need this to gain security access when doing PATS programming) Perhaps you might already know this, but to get FORScan and the extended license you'll need an account on the forums - it's free and quick to get. Once you have FORScan downloaded and set up, connect to your Focus following the program's prompt - scan through all the modules and see what DTCs there are. Most likely it'll tell you the two that we already have, but it doesn't hurt to get a better picture. Once you decide you're ready, follow the guide on the PATS programming forum thread that I linked - you'll want to use two separate functions in PATS programming, which are 'Ignition key erase' and 'ignition key programming' (pretty self-explanatory as to what they do). If you do any PATS programming, you may need to do one of three things when doing anything depending on the level of programming that you're doing. FORSCan may prompt you to get timed security access, single code access, or dual code access - you'll need to gain security access before doing PATS programming. FORScan has its own built-in code generator, but it's not very good so I suggest using the calculator that I've linked above. It's free to sign-up, but you can only use it a few times within a certain time period - some report a few times a day, some report a few times within an hour. That's all fine, just try not to spam security access requests when working with FORScan.
  15. Hey David, saw your post about the cluster - I've had a few troubles with my own so I thought I'd chime in. The gauges for fuel and temperature might just be stuck, so it might be worth to see if anything's blocking them or if anything has fallen in - especially with the crack that's now in the lens. There's a possibility that one of the dry solder joints on the main connector (a common problem with the clusters) is causing the gauges to not power up or receive a signal, so they're not displaying anything. As for putting in a new cluster, it's definitely doable and it's something you can do yourself - no need to pay someone to do it for you. All you need to do it is: The new Instrument cluster A laptop with a USB port The latest version of FORScan installed with an extended license (both are free) A modified ELM327 cable that has an HS-CAN (high speed) and MS-CAN (low/medium speed) switch to toggle between the two Two keys There are instructions on how to do this which I could link to you if you'd like - let me know if you choose to go ahead with doing it yourself. One thing to keep in mind though - when you're shopping for a new cluster, pick one that has the same or lower mileage than your current cluster. This is because you can increase your mileage to correct it, but you can't decrease it lower than what it already is. Also, make sure that the cluster that you plan to buy is the same as your current one - make sure it has the same rev range (if you have a petrol, both clusters should go to 8k, if it's diesel both should go to 6k), and check that the main speedometer is in mph, instead of kph. You can use both the pre-facelift and the facelift clusters, however, it's a bit more complex to program the facelift cluster.