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About LTIronWolf

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    Mk2 1.6 Zetec Focus
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  1. Hi all, Does anyone know of people turbocharging a Mk2 petrol Focus? I know the Diesel counterparts came with a Turbo from the factory, so I don't see why the petrol models should miss out 😛I'm not looking to make a racing car or necessarily add serious power, it's more of a "for fun" project for street driving. Are there any kits or tutorials for doing this? I don't know if the engine would have to be rebuilt with stronger internals to handle the boost.
  2. I was thinking exactly this. Over the past 2-3 months, it's cycled from minus temperatures to 16C, and it's varied every single day - I wouldn't be surprised if that is what caused it to fail. I reflowed the connectors on the back of the connector, and everything is fine again. I nudged and moved around the IC like last time to check that it's been fixed and everything seems to be fine. I've cleared all DTCs related to connections and I see how I get on over the next few days. Hopefully it stays away for good!
  3. That's interesting, I never actually knew that. Does the PCM connection count as part of the CAN bus? I can't imagine how the car would cope if the PCM were somehow disconnected or interrupted, hypothetically speaking. I have not, but after some testing I've managed to track it down to the cluster itself - always seems to be a problem child with Mk2 Focuses. It seems to be either the connector on the IC itself, or the harness connecting to it that is causing the issue. The problem tends to kick up when I'm driving, and it's very random when it happens. Sometimes it won't, and can even change states a few times in the space of seconds when driving. After poking and moving the cluster a bit while driving, that tends to either cause it to reconnect when displaying "engine malfunction", or it causes it to disconnect when it's running as normal. Leads me to think something isn't making proper contact. When I tested the car at home, I unscrewed the cluster with the harness still attached and played with it while the car was running. I can't properly tell whether it's the connector itself that has bad solder joints or connections, or if there's a break in the wires in the harness that connects - I think it's the former. Is it common for the harness to break or misbehave? I'm going to reflow the solder on my IC connector and see if that fixes it. Keep in mind, this is a facelift cluster with the new layout and design, and was manufactured after the famous 2005 year clusters which were prone to breaking. Is it possible for these to have bad connections as well? I didn't immediately consider an IC problem as I figured the facelift clusters were much more robust than the original ones. Nothing that I can think of, no. The only water that could have possibly gotten in was during the snow 2 weeks ago, when I got into the car with traces of snow on my shoes. This would only be small quantities, and it should have melted into the carpet.
  4. @Tdci-Peter You've been a great help to me in the past. Any ideas this time round?
  5. Hi all, My Focus started to misbehave today out of nowhere, and I’m asking in case anyone has any bright ideas. I have a 2006 Focus with a Facelift cluster and retrofitted cruise control (both mods done by me), after my original cluster died because of the classic pre-facelift problem. Everything was working fine with no issues, and I’ve had no bumps or accidents until I got into my car today to start the car. My cluster started to chime, displaying the messages “engine malfunction - acceleration reduced” however this was very intermittent. The car alternated between not cranking at all whatsoever (dead silence when turning the key), succesfully starting but still showing warnings, or starting succesfully with no warnings whatsoever. I managed to drive the car home safely with no issues other than a check engine light on my cluster the entire journey home. I got home, and after failing to connect to my PCM using FORScan a few times, I finally managed to read the DTCs and all of them were related to CAN bus connectivity or signalling problems. I made a note of all the codes that were present, wiped the DTCs, and re-scanned to see if anything came up - all fine, no issues. The CEL also disappeared so I assume the car was all fine. I went for a drive a few hours later, and during the drive all of my issues came back. The car started fine, but chimed about “engine malfunction” and “acceleration reduced” several times while driving. The cluster would also alternate between the rev counter and speedometer either showing their given values, or dropping to 0. When the messages appeared and the counters dropped, the cluster also showed a CEL, the ABS, oil, and battery lights - it’s like the entire cluster wasn’t communicating with the PCM. The exhaust was also making a deep raspy sound, and the car would occasionally judder, and the accelerator felt like it was stumbling and catching up. Judging by the way the car was behaving and the DTCs I scanned earlier, it seems like the CAN bus is intermittently connecting somewhere, which seems strange as surely the car shouldn’t be able to work if the CAN bus is interrupted? I’ve had CAN issues in the past which I’ve written about previously here, but those were just due to physically loose connections. It has rained and snowed recently - could this have upset the car somehow? Thank you in advance!
  6. I recently upgraded from a pre-FL cluster (the old green one) to a FL cluster (the modern looking orange one). However, the needles are wrong for my revs and speed, and I don't know how to correct them. Do you just manually move the needles by hand? The resting positions when the car is off and the gauge sweep on the hidden service menu indicates the needles are physically out of place. I'd take the windows off the cluster, but I don't know how to do so without breaking the glass as it looks like it's glued on. With the pre-FL cluster, you'd simply remove the entire lens, and you have access to the needles that way. Any suggestions?
  7. Ah I see, so you both use the car and just have a key each? I see what you mean now. Yes, the remote locking system is an entirely different beast, which is something that I didn't know straight away - you can have a key be programmed to the remote locking and not work with PATS, and vice versa. If both keys still work with remote locking, then they should be fine and haven't sustained any damage. It is unusual, but when it comes to PATS I've learned not to question that anything can happen - it's a very temperamental system on Mk2 Focuses that can easily be upset. As for the car not being able to start, it may be that the signal with the key isn't quite there so sometimes it will star and sometimes it doesn't. Think of it as a phone charger with a broken wire at the end - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't and you have to bend it at a certain angle to get it to work. My theory is the same could be with your keys and causing PATS to misbehave, although I'm not sure. What I'd advise now is getting your hands on a laptop with FORScan + an extended license, and an ELM327 cable that has the modified HS-CAN/MS-CAN switch. What you'll want to do is wipe both keys from memory, and reprogram them both in. This should reset everything, and the keys should work again with no room for them being temperamental by transmitting the wrong signal. (download page) (extended license generator) (guide on all PATS programming) (PATS outcode/incode calculator - you'll need this to gain security access when doing PATS programming) Perhaps you might already know this, but to get FORScan and the extended license you'll need an account on the forums - it's free and quick to get. Once you have FORScan downloaded and set up, connect to your Focus following the program's prompt - scan through all the modules and see what DTCs there are. Most likely it'll tell you the two that we already have, but it doesn't hurt to get a better picture. Once you decide you're ready, follow the guide on the PATS programming forum thread that I linked - you'll want to use two separate functions in PATS programming, which are 'Ignition key erase' and 'ignition key programming' (pretty self-explanatory as to what they do). If you do any PATS programming, you may need to do one of three things when doing anything depending on the level of programming that you're doing. FORSCan may prompt you to get timed security access, single code access, or dual code access - you'll need to gain security access before doing PATS programming. FORScan has its own built-in code generator, but it's not very good so I suggest using the calculator that I've linked above. It's free to sign-up, but you can only use it a few times within a certain time period - some report a few times a day, some report a few times within an hour. That's all fine, just try not to spam security access requests when working with FORScan.
  8. Hey David, saw your post about the cluster - I've had a few troubles with my own so I thought I'd chime in. The gauges for fuel and temperature might just be stuck, so it might be worth to see if anything's blocking them or if anything has fallen in - especially with the crack that's now in the lens. There's a possibility that one of the dry solder joints on the main connector (a common problem with the clusters) is causing the gauges to not power up or receive a signal, so they're not displaying anything. As for putting in a new cluster, it's definitely doable and it's something you can do yourself - no need to pay someone to do it for you. All you need to do it is: The new Instrument cluster A laptop with a USB port The latest version of FORScan installed with an extended license (both are free) A modified ELM327 cable that has an HS-CAN (high speed) and MS-CAN (low/medium speed) switch to toggle between the two Two keys There are instructions on how to do this which I could link to you if you'd like - let me know if you choose to go ahead with doing it yourself. One thing to keep in mind though - when you're shopping for a new cluster, pick one that has the same or lower mileage than your current cluster. This is because you can increase your mileage to correct it, but you can't decrease it lower than what it already is. Also, make sure that the cluster that you plan to buy is the same as your current one - make sure it has the same rev range (if you have a petrol, both clusters should go to 8k, if it's diesel both should go to 6k), and check that the main speedometer is in mph, instead of kph. You can use both the pre-facelift and the facelift clusters, however, it's a bit more complex to program the facelift cluster.
  9. Working keys sometimes misbehave with PATS, it's not unheard of. Once you get your hands on a laptop (preferably one that has a USB port and isn't coal powered), scan for codes and see if you can get access to PATS programming. If you have two keys handy (yours and your wife's?), you can try erasing all keys from memory and reprogramming both keys back in. As you haven't changed the PCM or the IC, you won't need to initialize the modules.
  10. Yep, that's me! I was driven by sentiment and persistence - It's been in the family for years, and I knew the car was capable of running so it seemed illogical to throw the towel in and give up. I learned a thing or two from my own experience, so I'll chip in what I know - there's always my thread to look over, although it's a different kind of PATS problem. You've got the right idea when counting the codes. The key part you mentioned is that it flashes twice after the initial rapid blinking - this is in fact counted as a '2', as opposed to '1', so your actual error code is 2:1. Error 2:1 indicates that there are less than 3 keys that are currently programmed into PATS memory. It will continue to drive (as it has), but ideally, you should program in another one or two keys. If you choose to do this, you have two ways to go about this: Buy a brand new key from a Locksmith (Timpson will sell and cut you one for £120 which is the best offer I've seen so far) Buy a second-hand genuine key (not a Chinese knock-off) and re-program that one. Although some keys will not be suitable for reprogramming, and they'll be indicated by a DTC when the PCM detects an unprogrammed key. If memory serves me correctly, the DTC is something B2116x (take this exact code with a pinch of salt), where 'x' can be either 0 or 1 - keys that trigger a DTC to end in 0 are not suitable for programming (you'll find this in most cheap Chinese keys), and DTC triggering keys ending in 1 are suitable. Although the second-hand genuine key I bought also ended in 0 and yet it still worked, so don't take it for gospel either. Going back to the 2:1 error, this seems unusual that the car is intermittently starting. Logic dictates it should either constantly start or not at all - I guess PATS can't make its mind up 😂 What do you mean exactly, when you say you use one key and your wife uses the other? Do you both use your respective key for the same car, or are you trying to use a key programmed to your wife's car on another car? You can use your existing keys, yes. However, they will need to be re-programmed to work with the new PCM + IC setup. All you need is FORScan + an extended license (both are free), and it's a relatively simple procedure. There are guides on the internet which I could link you to if you decide you need to do it. Although, with this whole key business, I'd rather leave this as a last resort. Sounds like the original battery that your daughter's replaced is just fine - I'd say you can put it back and rule it out. As long as you test your battery's voltage and don't see your voltage visibly dropping before your eyes (like mine did after it was left at a garage for months), then it should be stable enough to use. As for the data that you've thoroughly collected from your dash, we can focus on this: Everything from ROM level to manufacture hours is info about the IC and the build data itself, but we don't currently need this so we'll set aside. Everything afterward is the analog sensors, which are more for testing purposes and a regular owner won't need to use. Now, the codes stored in the cluster aren't your typical DTC format - they're stored that way, and can be decoded easily using the guide I linked earlier on. The codes translate to: U1900 - CAN bus communication error, faulty or intermittent connections at ignition switch or PCM B1600 - PATS ignition key transponder, signal is not received So starting with the first error - it's a fairly generic DTC that you get whenever PATS misbehaves. I've had it, you have, and pretty much every Tom, *****, and Harry who have posted on forums about PATS issues have had it. The only issue is that it's a vague, catch-all code to suggest something's wrong. Sometimes it implies that there's something wrong with the halo transceiver around the ignition barrel (especially when you have the second code), but this is normally a red herring - especially that you've tested another one and it all seemed to work fine. The second error is a big clue - the little transponder that's inside the key is not sending out a signal which PATS is reading, so it won't disable. This might happen if the key was damaged by being hit or dropped, or the key wasn't programmed properly, or it lost its programming. I think this is the programming DTC code I mentioned earlier on, where it can end in a 0 or a 1. Try both keys (yours and your wife's) with the car, and see if at least one of them work. Judging by the error code from the immobilizer light, and the DTC, it seems the problem lies in your keys.
  11. Hey Steve, Recently conquered my own PATS issues so I thought I'd pitch in. First of all, are all connections secure in the car? You mentioned you checked the PCM plug, but double check the connector on the back of the IC as well - I've had mine come loose without touching it. Error 1:1 seems unusual, and doesn't exist - are you sure it wasn't error 2:1? The codes can be read from the flashing light after it stops rapidly blinking (about a minute's wait), and will blink the first digit, pause, then blink the next digit. For example, error code 1:6 would be 1 blink, a pause, then 6 blinks. This code will repeat 10 times or so until the light goes out. If it is error 2:1, this indicates that the car doesn't have enough keys programmed into memory - you mentioned your wife only uses the one key, so this may be the problem. Which seems unusual, as it worked previously. As you can't currently use a laptop and an OBD cable, you can try reading DTC codes from the hidden menu in the cluster. To access it, have your key in the ignition in the '0' position, press and hold down the 'set/reset' button on the left stalk while turning the key to the '2' position, then let go once the cluster shows up "diagnostic" on the display. You can then cycle through the menu using the flick switch as you would normally. It will display the DTC codes, but they will be in a coded version - use this guide here to decode them: Yes, you're correct in thinking that the cluster doesn't transfer - the cluster and the PCM are married together, and form a pair inside the car to complete the PATS system. They work as a unit to identify if the key corresponds to one in memory, and allow the immobilizer to disable if everything matches up. Batteries can sometimes upset the PCM, and it will not power up if it detects an unstable voltage, or anything below 10v, as the smart charge system inside the Focus is responsible for this. As long as the battery is stable at 12.2v, it shouldn't be a problem which is why it's somewhat unusual. I'd test your daughter's battery just in case, so we can rule out that it's not the battery. However it's very strange that the car was able to start once, but then it died again - double check all connections and make sure there's nothing questionable. Reflowing the cluster was a good step to take - this is usually the most common problem whenever PATS issues occur and can cause anything from engine RPMs dropping to disco lights to the car refusing to start. Now that you have a laptop handy, see if you can read any DTCs using FORScan so we can get a clearer picture of what's going on. PATS programming is possible with FORScan, but I'd leave it as a last resort until we know what the exact problem is - especially since your wife currently only has one key, as PATS requires two keys programmed into memory for it to start after being initialized. So, to summarise: Read the exact error code from the immobilizer light Read DTCs using FORScan Double check the battery using a new one and see if your starting problems persist.
  12. Hi all, After finding out my Focus was eligible for retro-fitting cruise control, I went ahead and bought a set of Cruise Control buttons which I'll fit by cutting into my 3-spoke steering wheel. The only issue is, the buttons come with a red and black wire, and I don't know where these connect. Does anyone know where they go, or at least have a wiring diagram handy for the steering wheel? Thanks in advance
  13. Is a petrol remap worth doing? I've got a 1.6 that I'd like to get a small boost in power, and maybe remove the rev limiter. Any recommended software or ways to do it?
  14. Hi all, After doing routine maintenance on my car and doing an LED test on my cluster using the hidden service menu, I noticed my cluster is fitted with a shift indicator light (yellow or red arrow) along with a few other things, and I was wondering if there's any way to enable the indicator or what needs to be done for it to activate.
  15. Hey Kenziuko, is the immobiliser light rapidly blinking when you turn the car key? After a minute or so of rapid blinking, the car will blink out a code. The code is broken up into two parts: one or two blinks, a pause, then another set of blinks. For example, if the car blinks once, pauses, then blinks six times, you have an error code of 1:6 or 16. Let us know what the error code is and we can go from there.