Chris1234

Budding Enthusiast
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    37
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About Chris1234

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Christopher
  • Ford Model
    Fusion '02 (uk) /Focus '04
  • Ford Year
    2002
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Tyne & Wear

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  1. Think it's classed as B pillar trim
  2. Hi there I have to replace the plastic trim that's on the front and rear doors in between the window glass. It's the shiny black plastic bits between the Windows. Has anyone ever done this job before and could help with fixing locations please. Car is a 2018 kuga titanium Thanks in advance Chris.
  3. I had a focus that needed a new key as the old one was worn out. I zip tied the old key under the ignition barrel to sort the coding out and then got a New key made for pennies...all new keys now don't need programmed and cost pennies.
  4. They normally do stay on..they are also used to charge things and power aux items when the car is off. Try fitting a switch inline with the negative side and that would cut the power...though if your not in the car..what does it matter if it's powered up or not.
  5. Not sure about body parts...but some engine or running gear..brakes etc. might do.
  6. As a first start I would try the car battery, as they can just fail these days. Also check wires to the starter motor in case of a bad connection. Hope this helps P.S. I think most of the YouTube offerings will be the U.S. Fusion which is more like our Mondeo size.
  7. Hi, I have recently had the same problem. Check if your car is fitted with two Lambda sensors, bank 1 is upstream so will be located up in the exhaust manifold as it comes off the engine block. The bank 2 downstream sensor is located on the exhaust downpipe after the cat. Otherwise the wiring could be damaged.
  8. Might also be worth having a good poke around by the flexi joint that is obscured by the front sub frame.
  9. My little 1.6 petrol Fusion has just passed its MOT with no issues. I did replace all four tyres and 2 Wheelbearings as well as a Lambda sensor before presenting it for its test though. All in all another year on the road for a little over a couple of hundred quid is ok in my book.
  10. Hi all, Just an update on today's findings. FIXED!! I found a small stone wedged in the throttle body housing that had the butterfly wedged partially open. The EAS warning and all other signs of faults disappeared as quick as they came ( all except the engine light for the oxygen sensor) I have cleared all faults on a scanner and I now have no lights on, so will be keeping a close eye in the coming days. I sort of half expect the oxygen sensor to throw another code as it came on before all the other problems so I may have a dodgy one. Will keep you all posted if I have any more illuminations Thanks for all your suggestions and ideas, Chris.
  11. Update... i can't find any air or suction leaks at least top side of the engine so will put it up on ramps tomorrow and go underneath to see what is to be seen down there. Could anyone please post a picture of sketch of where the pipes for the vacuum system are and where they come from / go to? Also could anyone confirm that the throttle body/sensor is hidden right in the middle of inlet manifold where it looks very hard to get to without stripping the manifold off first? I have noticed a general lack of information on the net and on youtube, whereas there seems to be step by step detailed videos of other fords, the Fusion seems to throw a whole load of U.S. Fusion stuff up which looks like a whole different car.
  12. Thanks for your reply, I am off on Thursday so will have a dig about and report back. Thanks again, Chris.
  13. Thanks for that Tom, I will trace the vacuum hoses from the brake booster which I am guessing will be around the master cylinder area. Thanks again, Chris.
  14. Hi there, I have got codes p2119 & p2176 as well as a p0030 The first two are throttle position sensor codes and the last one says heater control circuit bank 1 It looks like the throttle body is hidden away under the plastic intake manifold pipes and looks very hard to even get at and I am not sure if the heater control code is relevant. The car is popping and banging quite loud on idle and has no power at all also the brake pedal is very hard with no movement and very little braking effect. Up until I read the codes the car showed a flashing EAC FAIL message. Any help much appreciated. Cheers, Chris.