FordSpanner

Budding Enthusiast
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    33
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About FordSpanner

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • First Name
    FordSpanner
  • Ford Model
    2007 KA
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Durham
  1. Petrol flap and rear wiper spigot. Why does the rust accumulate there?
  2. I meant does anyone know the torque specs. My Sealey 3/8 torque wrench is at the ready.
  3. 2007 1.3i Need to change the shocks as they're a bit floppy when off the car and operated by hand. I need the torque for the top nut off the roll bar link, the strut base clamb bolt, strut bearing nut and inner wing disc nut. Anyone know what NM to tighten to please? cheers
  4. What's deal with all the M2C913 spec oils? The 2007 1.3 KA we have uses 5w30 so I put 5w30 VW504.00/507.00 oil in since its a higher spec than Ford oils. So far, its run very smoothly.
  5. The bearing unit at the top has a bit of play on it when I give the wheel a vertical shake so about time for a new strut bearing. What's the drive shaft lock nut locking device? ...... Seems to have a tabs folded over it all sides but the videos on youtube just use a 27m socket to spin it off. What's the torque for the drive shaft nut? A pity the strut isn't a stub at the bottom to clamp into the the wheel hub. Would save a lot of bother. cheers
  6. Research has told that if I can can remove the radio, a minute job, and read the serial number of the label, I can have the security code confirmed on line.
  7. 2007 1.3 KA Took the battery off to do some work last week but sadly, the user manual with the code has gone awol so the young lady owner is having to drive along with only the sound of the engine for company. Is there any practical way to obtain the code?
  8. Why do a lot of folk think dropping the bottom rad hose of is sufficient to clear the system of old coolant? I've always taken the heater matrix pipes off, one at a time, and flushed through both ways with water. This helps flush the block out too, I usually take the expansion bottle off as well and give that a good shake out with water in the sink. You can actually do a coolant flush with the engine warm, provided you use hot water for flush and refill. The concentrate can be warmed in the microwave.
  9. Got the assembly from a local reputable motor factor. Didn't really trust the cheapees on ebay! Job was quite reasonable to do and the KA is now back on the road. Thanks for posting!
  10. Have sourced some new units on ebay around the £13/£14 price so may go for that option. Will try to source locally tomorrow from a motor factor or perhaps Ford, depending on main dealer price.
  11. Attempted the job of antifreezing today but one of the thermostat housing spouts (heater matrix) is partly broken off so it needs a new housing. Are these housings prone to breaking? ... it wasn't me that broke it so curious if they are a weak part!
  12. Be it a local motor factor or an online seller, either could fall victim to fake goods. An effective way to confirm genuine goods, albeit a bit pedantic perhaps, is to ask the manufacturer if they supply to the seller as I did with the oil I purchased from an ebay seller.
  13. The effective way is an engine strip down after 100k miles. All bearings/journals inspected and measured.
  14. Indeed, a drain hole makes sense since the oil filter is on an angle. So the filter has to be replaced first before the sump oil is drained off. Had to do the same a few weeks back when I did an oil/filter change on a '94 reg Merc C220. When I took the filter out, I could here oil draining into the sump. In the past, I've always drained the sump oil, plug back in then taken the filter off. With this Fiesta oil change, I've fitted a Blue Print filter to see how it fairs. I've used Mann filters for quite a while but disappointed in the Mann fuel filter I for the car so sent it back. A lot of folk are recommending Hengst brand.
  15. Job done! Does anyone know why the filter has a spike on the bottom?