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About wild_one

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk2 1.8tdci
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London

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  1. Yeah, I must admit I have heard other diesel owners complaining about warm up times. The issue is lack of heater output more than anything. It gets cold in London too you know
  2. Compared to my last 'petrol' focus, my current diesel does take a lot longer to get up to temp. When it eventually does get to temp no issues. I was concerned that the thermostat had failed open, but the last time I had that issue (on a different car) the temp would drop away on the motorway and heater output was always poor unless you were in stop start traffic. But, I still think it could be an issue?
  3. is it possible to diagnose a failing lift pump, with the pump in situ?
  4. Thanks for the advice, I'll check things out. An air leak would certainly be easier to deal with than replacing the tank sender!
  5. Also, just out of interest, would air entering the system show as fluctuating fuel pressure, if I plug in my Forscan?
  6. But, if I have a 'leak' wouldn't it produce symptoms all the time. I don't have starting problems. The only time I let the gauge run below what I thought was 1/4 and it wouldn't start until I poured a gallon of diesel in it? At the moment it appears my fuel sender is telling fibs about the amount of fuel actually in the tank. And is very consistent about that. As long as I keep the fuel gauge showing above 1/4 I could just ignore the problem. It's just that I'm a person that likes things to work? I used to drive a mk1 diesel 1.8tdci and that had the opposite problem, it would underestimate the correct amount of fuel actually in the tank.
  7. It runs fine in all respects other than that I treat 1/4 as empty, although in reality it's probably a little under 1/4. I only found out about this issue after letting it run down to 1/4 once, as i usually top up below 1/2 a tank. The car failed to start and after a comprehensive check of the engine and pipework, a gallon of diesel and she eventually fired up (without any 'priming' issues) and has run faultlessly for the last few weeks. When the gauge is showing 1/4 £35 will fill it up.
  8. My car seems to run out of fuel when the gauge is still showing 1/4 full. The gauge cluster passes the self test thing. It works correctly in every other way. I'm guessing either faulty sender or pickup. Does anyone have any experience of diagnosing the sender. Or, the process of removing it which appears to involve removing the fuel tank or cutting a hole under the back seat?
  9. Ford are asking £75 each for the sensors, so even £40 seems a bargain? I think I might just take a chance and buy one that looks close, although I should probably check the wiring to make sure I'm not replacing a perfectly good sensor because of a broken wire?
  10. Just out of interest did you match up the part numbers? Because there are loads that are the same type, but only one matches part number and that is listed under a Jaguar for £40! It would probably be more cost effective for me to install an aftermarket kit, especially as the wiring is already in place?
  11. I did manage to find a comprehensive guide to diagnosing the rear parking sensor system on the Ford online workshop manual site. But obviously they assume you have dealer level diagnostics to access the parking module fault codes. Still useful though. After a closer examination on my car, and after doing the "listen for the sound of popping candy test" I have one dud sensor. I also noticed that of the remaining three sensors one is good and loud, the other two are about half the volume. So I may well be revisiting this problem in the future.
  12. Thanks, I will have a go myself tomorrow
  13. Well, the reversing light is now working but not the sensors? After some googling it appears that you can touch the sensors while the warning tone is on to check for the 'dud' sensor. Apparently they pulse if they are working. I will have to wait for some assistance for that test?
  14. I just plugged in Forscan and confirmed that the reverse light switch is functioning? I understand the the switch is quite simple on/off so the circuit is either on/off. I guess the problem must be elsewhere?
  15. That's my thinking. But my issue is that when I drop into reverse gear I get a long continuous tone for about 5 secs which I'm assuming is the car telling me the sensors have malfunctioned? So, if the switch powers up the sensors, shouldn't the sensor circuit be 'dead'?