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About LesPes

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    Feet Under The Table

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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Mk7.5
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
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    General Automotive

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  1. £30 but as mine renews now it's free.
  2. Having done the conversion i cant say braking is noticeaby any better, the st fronts i put on seem to handle most of the stopping more than adequatley. I guess the rear discs do help a little better than drums,Crazy i know but i look at the rears and smile as it just looks so much better than drums.If i was doing anything on the brakes for performance then i would look at going beyond the st fronts but as with all things racing it will cost a lot more. The price of some kits could outprice the car !! lol
  3. ? It's well worth the effort took me a couple of hours to drop an axle and put the new on in. longest part was moving all the heatshields to do the handbrake cable. Whether you are modding or racing cant see what the racing things all about , racing wont give you any benefits with an st180 axle,but modding then yes the rear setup looks a lot better than drums
  4. Rang my insurers and ran my mods past them. Came back with a brilliant reply, "we have entered your mods into the system, your premium will remain the same" Result !!! well done Adrian Flux.
  5. Funny you should mention the rear discs, i was only looking at mine yesterday thinking that they looked a bit tiny, mk1 focus carriers seem to be a little elusive are they the only ones that will fit? Also are the focus rear discs not 281mm?
  6. Dunno how you managed with st150 calipers. This is what i got mistakenly at first, while the 278mm discs fitted fine the calipers wouldnt fit even with the larger carriers as the holes dont match up and the standard carriers dont give clearance for anything over the standard disc. Karls post is spot on with what you need and what choices you have St200 also work. I also did the rear axle swap out from drums to disc. Didnt mess about i just dropped the whole axle and replaced it with one from a st. The hardest part with this was taking all the heatshields out from underneath to get at the handbrake linkage and once i worked out how the cable actually releases it was fine just to swap them over, cant say the rears make a lot of difference performance wise but it makes a huge difference to look at with the red calipers it must be good for another 5mph.😁
  7. I went back to a standard airbox with standard filter from a mountune box with k&n on my 7.5. For me the standard set up is better, as i have the bluefin i found the k&n just wasnt up for the job and the standard filter handles it so much better in the top end. The only thing i kept on was Airtec primary and secondary hoses which do give a throatier noise when planting the foot. The thing i notice now is at 80-100mph, on a private road of course, i have a vibration that you can feel through the steering probably unrelated but just something i noticed from a 500 mile round trip i have just done. I have messed around with my car all year and what i have found with the mk7.5 fez is they are very finnicky when it comes to the intake system. It certainly isn't a one works for all thing.
  8. As i recall the block that goes into the set is numbered the numbers are very small but on mine they were there. Im sure too that there are images here alraedy from the post i followed. On the display screen connector pin 12 is blue/green pin 6 is blue. On the c1 big connector that goes into the radio pin 5 is blue/green pin 4 is blue The connections between pin 12 and 5 and 6 and 4 were not too bad i never had the wiring in the c1 adapter so just made up the wires and plugged straight into the holes the display end i was able to splice into which is a lot easier when you slide out the connector and wires from the housing.casing I remember that the numbers are on the c1 block but you have to slide it out of its casing use a small screwdriver, its fiddly but it does come apart Read this it will help Here is another post cleary showing the blocks and how to get the block apart where the numbers can be seen. scroll down to the relevant piccys
  9. I was lucky James, i had a spare block and pushed the connectors out, made my loom and them pushed them into the block on my car, the biggest problem i can recall was with the GPS fakra cable, the one i got from fleabay had a different plug than the ford type so i had to carefully trim it with a stanley knife to make it fit. As for the connector block try a breakers yard etc, im sure the pins are available though pity maplins are no more somewhere like that would of had them, then its simple to make the loom up and get them into your own block.
  10. They are easily found on Ebay. The plug connects up under the trim (if you have the connector) if not simply cut the plug and run the wires into the courtesy light wiring. Some ebay sellers sell these with the connectors attached to the cill lead as mine were. Another simple addition thats looks good.
  11. I did this and yes there are various bits you need,a sat nav radio, bigger screen and pod for starters then there is a bit of wiring you have to run as most likely your loom wont have it. All in all it wasn't too bad a job....i managed it. If you search the forums im sure a few of us did a thread on it especially the wiring part. The GPS aeriel was easy, available cheaply on ebay and i tucked mine under the pod with the screen. Gotta say though i have gone back to a TomTom, so much better, even though i had tomtom maps on the ford system. I've searched for you:
  12. Yeah, paid a visit to Airtec at Canvey Island and got a couple of Pro Hoses. I have heard various takes on the results of this little mod, early days yet but cant say it makes any more noise which is good but it does certainly add to the get up and go factor, my missus even noticed it. I tried a K&N before but got rid of it but now i have the bluefin remap it does make a difference and unlike before it runs sweet.
  13. Looking for a bit of help from those who may have done the upgrade. I have a standard airbox on my 1.0 ecoboost which has an outlet of 2.25" The mountune box i have has an outlet of 2.50" which i would say is from an ST. Putting it on the the car leaves me with the option of changing the top and getting a 2.25 silicon hose. I would love to keep the bigger outlet but the st primary hose is different as it has the air outlet on it, can this be capped? Secondly i wouls assume the rear connection to the crossover would be bigger than the 1.0 so to do it i would say i need the whole st setup of primary, secondary and crossover pipes, then you have to ask is the secondary connection larger? I think the way to go is just get the 1.0 silicon and use the standard top on the airbox but im thinking that im not getting the full benefit. Got the bluefin remap so it should show something of an improvement. Hope i've expained this in a way that makes sense. Any feedback would be most welcome. Thanks
  14. ...................and it's still hot