HighHo

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content Count

    23
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About HighHo

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Alex
  • Ford Model
    Focus estate
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset

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  1. Does it do it when stationary? From 3rd to 1st does it do it?
  2. A garage has taken a look and insisted it's all fine and moving as it should be (described as perfect). I'm not 100% convinced still so will try and have a proper look myself when possible.
  3. Car: 2008 mk 2.5 estate petrol estate. Hi all, in the last couple of days when changing gears to 3rd gear (both up and down), it feels loose (not as much resistance might be better wording). The gear changes fine, and no odd revs etc when coming off the clutch. Is it anything I should be concerned about, or parts I should inspect. I'm more concerned if it's a symptom of a future larger failure. Cheers for reading, and any advice, Alex.
  4. Just thought I would post a quick update on this, I had to reflash the PCM module as the tyre size was out. On diesel cars I believe you can just update the vid block. On petrol however you need to flash it fully, as there's not much info on this. I just thought I would list the steps I used. Make sure you have a charger to the battery to be safe (my original mess up and block size at 64 instead of auto). 1. Backup pcm firmware and config. 2. Flash the firmware back, you will be asked twice if you want to load the vid block, select no on both. Leave the block size as auto (mine used 1024, if 64 for example it will take ages). (21 mins) 3. Once flashed you can now load pcmconfig and make any changes if needed and apply. (2-3 mins).
  5. I went for headliner then down the A-piller and under the glove box to stereo.
  6. You dont need to use the Red power lead on the RCA cable if you have a canbus adaptor (with reverse gear wire) to your stereo.
  7. Hopefully someone close can help, if you do get stuck I can post my elm adaptor (with switch) as long as you are happy to post back once done.
  8. Have you checked the battery voltage? That's all I can think of as a quick test.
  9. Just a quick update (not sure it's that interesting to others), new ECU is fitted, programmed and all working. Replacing the ECU unit wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, luckily there were no security bolts on mine. I think you could remove the plastic wheel arch cover without removing the wheel (but probably worth it for the space). Reprogrammed using elmconfig, thought I might have a duff unit as the pcm wouldn't read, but just needed to program the keys first in FORScan so the immobiliser passed. Hopefully allowed, but also just want to say thanks to a chap called Enda from endtuning.com was extremely helpful in providing advice on possibly recovering my original ECU (and may have been able to repair it).
  10. Nice one, thanks for confirming.
  11. I will likely try replacing the whole ECU unit, could anyone tell me where it located on the MK2.5 1.8 petrol 2008. Assume it will be the same place as the diesel versions, behind the front of the passenger wheel arch, but wanted to double check as it seems like a pain!
  12. Can anyone recommend someone/company to do a pcm firmware recovery? I was doing a flash when my battery died (annoying at about 95% complete), 100% my bad, I was following a guide that said the upload would be a lot quicker, but I ignored my instinct. Ignoring all the above and me being an idiot, I can't write it using elmconfig. Can anyone either help recover, or recommend someone/somewhere that can? Thanks, Alex (HighHo)
  13. I have messed up and my car battery died while writing the firmware back to the PCM (the guide suggested writing back would take 1 to 10 mins, but I guess I went wrong somewhere and it was uploading the whole thing back). Will I be able to recover once I have a fully charged battery in, or I have I made an expensive error. If I have binned it what are my options on getting it fixed?
  14. Is there some reward for posting that, or just really recommended?
  15. I don't think either of you are wrong. It probably more depends on your requirements, if your car was to break down (new cars are not immune) on the way to work how critical is it you get on your way again quickly? If you do long distance drives and you broke down far from home then recovery on the day could be easily more than the cost of breakdown for a year or 2. Ultimately it's a lottery, and need to decide if it's better to have and not need, or better to potentially save some money, but may cost more if something goes wrong.