erictcleric

Budding Enthusiast
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About erictcleric

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    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Eric
  • Ford Model
    Focus 2.0 TDCI Titanium X
  • Ford Year
    2011
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Leicestershire
  1. I can't speak for the Mk 3.5, but on the Mk 3 bi-Xenon there are 2 bulbs there. One is for cornering, the other is an auxiliary high beam bulb. This is because Xenon lights take a few seconds to warm up, so the auxiliary high beam comes into play to provide instant response when you flash your headlights. Also it makes the high beam very bright 😊
  2. When you say rear lamp, do you mean the filament bulb for the tail light in the LED unit? If so, then it's as JW said - the tail light for the LED units is just the LED. Despite having a dual filament, only the brake light is wired in the LED lights.
  3. Good to hear it's sorted. Re: comparison with other cars. The Focus headlights aren't great, but I've seen worse. Lighting technology has moved on in the last few years though, so comparing them to newer cars isn't much of a contest!
  4. I usually go for Osrams for Xenon and Phillips for halogens.
  5. It will light up the sides, but should be a fairly even spread without big dark patches in the lit area. I would check the bulb has gone in correctly. If it's wonky then you can get uneven lighting.
  6. Xenons have a very different beam pattern and much sharper cut-off than halogens. This means a wider and more consistent spread, but very little illumination above the cut-off. From the description it sounds like your beam pattern is ok. Mine are as you describe, and don't illuminate the road that far when I'm driving in the countryside. Aftermarket bulbs will change the light colour or give you brighter light, but won't do much for the throw - i.e., it won't add much extra distance to the beam. Main beam is a different story...
  7. A good clean and silicone spray will fix that. Had the same on my previous car. Make sure the screen wash is up to snuff for this cold snap though, otherwise you'll find the washers will freeze and jam up again. I increase the strength in winter because the headlight washers are quite exposed.
  8. I haven't noticed the same surge and loss of revs. Obviously it needs a bit more throttle and is slower off the line, but might be worth testing, especially with your remap (mine isn't remapped).
  9. Same thing, slipping the clutch a little or pulling away in 2nd with extra revs is how I work around it. Or always start off pointing downhill...
  10. Or they're used to it. I must admit that I tend to apply a little extra right foot when pulling away in any Ford from the last few years.
  11. Also: check that the electrical connector on the back of the headlight is secure. If it's even slightly loose then that can cause the error; reseating it might solve the issue without needing to clear the codes.
  12. That's normal when starting in very cold weather. Watch the instrument cluster; you'll see the glow plug lights come on, and then when they go out the engine will start. If it makes you feel better I thought it was a fault with the car when I first experienced it, because I didn't hold the clutch like you did so the car didn't start at all. Even went so far as to get the AA to tow it to the dealer...
  13. I'm sure they just name them the same to annoy people... not only that, the colour temperature of the Cool Blue Intense varies depending on the fitment; our D3S bulbs are actually slightly yellower than, say D1S. Madness. Anyway... I'm going to stick to my recommendation for the Nightbreaker Lasers. You'll get more light, and they are very slightly whiter than the stock bulbs. There will be a definite improvement, but don't expect a massive change - the Focus headlights simply aren't as good as modern ones. Jon also makes a very good point about keeping them clean - even a thin film of dirt seems to make mine appear a lot worse. If you want a more subjective review: am I slightly disappointed that when I changed from stock to the Cool Blues that they didn't give out a lot more light? Yes. Do I regret changing them? Definitely not.
  14. Nightbreakers and Cool Blue Intense come in D3S Xenon flavours too - I have them in my TitX. Standard OEM bulbs are about 4100K colour temp (I think). Cool Blue Intense are around 5000K in D3S... But remember, bluer light can impact wet weather visibility.
  15. I've got Osram Cool Blue Intense in mine because I like the whiter light - I feel it picks out more detail. However, beware of going too blue; blue/white light tends to be absorbed by water so can make it more difficult to see if it's raining. I've also used Osram Nightbreakers in the past. Not as white, but they do seem to give a good amount of light. I've not tried the Nightbreakers since they rebranded them to Nightbreaker Laser, but I suspect those are the kind of thing you're after.