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About Lemur2906

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  • Ford Model
    MK2 Focus 2.0 Zetec
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  1. What are you trying to power up? Does it absolutely need to be powered up only when unlocked? There's absolutely loads of ways to do this, and I can tell you how to, but if you tell me why I can advise the best way 👍
  2. 0.30 and 0.01 what? If it equates to 30mA, that's perfectly fine, on most cars up to around 50-70mA quiescent drain is totally acceptable, even up to 100mA on some models. With your low mileage and long down times, I wouldn't be too concerned about the battery going flat, that's not out of the ordinary, I'd advise a trickle/solar charger, or a battery isolator.
  3. Possibly neither, it could be as the code suggests that the catalytic converter has failed. If that's the case then you need to establish why. What diagnostic steps have you undertaken. for example monitoring live data? Readiness monitors? If you have no idea what those are, let me know and I'll go through it with you, but I wouldn't go replacing those just yet.
  4. I'm in East London and can help. PM me a little more info and I'll get back to you 🙂
  5. @StephenFord @JW1982 I thought I'd provide an update on this. I've now got fully functional Air Con fitted in my car, and I can't tell you how over the moon I am on being able to freeze my toes off lol. Anyways, through some research of my own, my colleague, and contacting a trade friend who was a ford master tech around the time these cars were made, I figured out what was needed. I needed to replace the PCM, and GEM with parts from a model fitted with AC. The car I stripped all the AC parts from still had the PCM and GEM, so I was going to take them and fit them, but the ECU was of the newer type and thus not compatible. I was able to use the GEM module however, and the PCM I took a 150 mile round trip to source. Once I fitted the new PCM and programmed the PATS, the GEM module popped in with no programming necessary. Flick the key and woohoo! Cold air. Pop IDS on to data logger and monitor live data, everything is operating exactly as expected. As a plus the GEM module from the donor car came with 2 keys, so I now have 3 keys, and a couple replacement blades on the way. Thanks JW for your advice, but I was clutching at straws trying to program it, it seems that ford never made that an option as AC is a very rare retrofit (i'll be surprised if I hear of someone else doing it). I was asking a bit too much on the programming front. Either way, it's all done now!
  6. @JW1982 Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure if i'm doing it right. I've found a couple VINs that seem like they should be a good match, I've gone through the procedure as you described. All went well, the car is still operating properly, however I still have no A/C and now have the wrong VIN in the ECU (not the end of the world, it's easy enough to revert). Apologies for any stupidity, I've done a tiny bit of programming before but never touched IDS.
  7. I was hoping you might see this one! You seem to be very clued up. Anyways, before I proceed I'd like to confirm I know exactly what I'm doing. On step 4, what do you mean the correct part number? Which part number am I using? Will it vary from my car to the "donor" car? Thank you in advance Further, for anyone who has a 2005 focus 2.0 petrol with a/c and would like to offer their vin in PM I'd be highly grateful, I'm finding it quite hard to find one as the 2.0 is quite rare.
  8. Hi all, I have a MK2 Focus 2.0 petrol, which from factory had no A/C. I wanted A/C so I fitted it, and it almost works, the system is fully operational and all components installed, it's gassed up (perfectly), and produces cold air when you power up the compressor manually. The issue is however, the ECU is not commanding the relay to come on. I've tested everything, and it all works but the ECU just won't ground the relay. I've ordered a VCM2 clone to use with IDS as ForScan and ElmConfig aren't capable of doing this, but I'm hoping someone can guide me on how to do such a thing with IDS as there appears to be little online in the way of programming tutorials, only new module coding. Also if anyone is reasonably local to London/Essex and has IDS, your help could be compensated should you wish! Thanks! Michael
  9. So, I've been trying to diagnose this issue since I've owned the car, I've fixed so so many other things on this car but I can't figure this one out. It's a 2005 2.0 Petrol before I forget to tell you. Right, so the issue; First of the two main symptoms - Poor fuel economy, I can't say for sure but I think I should be getting more than 25 ish mpg, driving overly conservatively. Second, If I turn the car off and then try to start it back up very soon after it sorta doesn't. It's very hard to explain in text form, it cranks fine, but it sounds like it so nearly fires up then spins a bit quicker for a second then normal speed, then quicker etc, If I hold the key in start for long enough it will start. This issue is a little intermittent, sometimes I can pop out the car to the shop, 5 mins or so and it will happen. Sometimes it can be off for 2 seconds and it won't. It's always possible to recreate the issue but there's no pattern to the procedure required. I've read on an article or two that flooding can cause this issue (excess fuel in the cylinder - essentially flooding the cylinder), which of course seems to correlate with the poor fuel economy. I've had a couple times where cycling the ignition without starting will cause "Engine Systems Fault" to appear on the screen, what this might have to do with anything I don't know, maybe fuel pump priming on ignition? Not sure. As for the codes, I can only get the codes through the dashboard, as when the issue appears I can't get the OBD to play ball, they are as follows: D900, E196, E510. Hopefully one of you will be able to shed some light on this, and of course any further information that's needed just ask Many thanks, Michael.
  10. Hi Alan, You don't need any resistors, it's just old ones out new ones in. These are the LEDs you need (you can buy them elsewhere, but I've had nothing but good experiences with these guys and the prices are good). Also the LEDs from these guys have markers to tell you which way they go (green arrow on the bottom points to the negative). Further, you will need to test the polarity of the leds before they come out, as after they come out, it's a guessing game. To find out, use a multimeter on diode test mode, poke the terminals on the sides of the LEDs, when it lights up (it will be VERY dim) or the meter beeps, you've found the correct polarity. Thenyou can mark the positive side (on the circuit board itself, with a marker for example). I also found that for LEDs near the edge of the board, with no other components in the way, it's a lot easier to just cut them off with a stanley, or craft knife. Any more help needed, I'm just a message away 🙂 Michael.
  11. There is indeed a tutorial for it. Have you desoldered and resoldered SMDs before? If not, I would suggest practicing elsewhere before trying on the cluster, as messing it up will be VERY costly, and will make your car a paperweight until fixed. I am in the process of doing the same as you, however since I'm not experienced with soldering SMDs I practiced on other lit up components first. Window switches, headlight switches, heated window buttons, heater control dials etc. I've managed all of them successfully but am still wary of touching the instrument panel. Here is the guide anyhow, do not hesitate to ask for more info, especially regarding dismantling things to get the circuit boards as it was a recent job and still fresh in my mind.
  12. What codes where they? Also, besides the EGR, dud you unplug any electrical connectors? Make sure they're plugged in and secure. I just blanked the EGR on mine (Can't justify the cost of a new one), and missed a plug.
  13. Hello everyone, Hopefully someone can advise me here. I suspect there to be issues with my throttle body, for various reasons, and so am looking to replace it. I noticed a second hand ST throttle housing going for £20 where a matching throttle is around £40. I'm assuming the ST has a wider throttle bore, so if it's compatible I see no harm in trying at the cost of a score. I'm aware that being second hand there could be further issues, and I'm aware that second hand is a risk, I'm willing to take that risk. I just need to know if it will actually be compatible, if not then there's no point even trying. Many thanks, Michael.
  14. I have a "B" GEM unit, and just today I finished the activation of cruise control. It works the same as C/D GEM units however I had to manually run the wire from the squib/ clock spring to the GEM. The pins in both the back of the squib, and the GEM unit are present, however the wires between them are missing. I removed the wiring from another car, deppined the donor plugs (only the two wires that were missing - brown and white), then repinned them into my cars plugs at the correct location (using the donor for reference). Once I had connected it all up and activated the cruise in ElmConfig, It works perfectly. If you have a B gem, it's still possible and I'm happy to help.