olei

Budding Enthusiast
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About olei

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • First Name
    Ole Steffen
  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. https://www.lasertools.co.uk/items/PDF/Products/7317_Instructions_V4.pdf Looking at this aftermarket tool, it seems you're right. 👍 9:1 gear ratio, 8 x 90 degrees + 25 degrees, total 82.7 degrees. The manual does'nt tell to torque to 60Nm before angle torque(?).
  2. I see what you mean. Have you seen any documentation where it states torque ratio, instead of gear ratio? https://fordspecialtools.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=303-1611
  3. Lots of info, great! It being time consuming doesn't bother me, so I will continue with my timing belt replacement on next service. I believe your crankshaft numbers are wrong. The gear ratio won't change, so the angle numbers should be 18 degrees for each step and a total of 90 degrees. It is true though that you will have a torque loss (friction) through a torque multiplier, but the gear ratio is still the same. So when using a torque wrench set at 60Nm with a 5:1 torque multiplier which in theory should be 300Nm, the actual torque on the bolt will be less (255-270Nm?).
  4. So, has anyone done a timing belt replacement on the 1.0 Ecoboost? I just did my 220.000km(136.000 miles) service today on my '12 Focus. On the next 240.000km(150.000 miles) service I will have to do the timing belt as well. I would think a timing tool kit would make things a lot easier; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Ecoboost-1-0-Timing-Tool-Kit-Transit-Mondeo-Fiesta-13-17-Focus-12-18/283492717211 Does anyone know if any of the bolts needs to be replaced?
  5. My new (used, good condition) compared to the old turbo wastegate; https://imgur.com/9qmFqBo It is now running better than ever.
  6. According to Pumaspeed the 1.0 Ecoboost turbo's are the same, even though the part numbers/power output are different. Based on this I went on and bought a used turbo from a '14 Focus with the M2DA (100HP version) with only 6500 miles on it. I still haven't replaced it though.
  7. The car has been running flawless since the dealer corrected the bug(?) in the software.
  8. Made some progress today. I vacuum tested the wastegate actuator. I pulley vacuum from the middle hose on the boost solenoid, seeing the actuator working and pulling the wastegate. It held pressure, so the actuator is good. But, I think the problem is the wastegate linkage itself. Hard to tell without removing the downpipe and study the inside, but the linkage is pretty loose. https://imgur.com/bLjidxT https://imgur.com/Vk4IB9M I'm pulling/twisting at the wastegate arm here. When the actuator is pulley with vacuum all the way, I still have some movement left on the wastegate arm. I believe the wastegate arm would be firm if was closed all the way to the seat. The wastegate shaft bushing also seem to be worn out. At first I was thinking about adjusting the actuator arm to give the wastegate a slightly preload when in closed position, but seeing all the slack in the wastegate shaft I'm not so sure it will work very well after all. I will also need to replace my coolant tank; https://imgur.com/oTeNRZn
  9. Alright. Since I have excellent brakes it should mean that the vacuum pump is in good shape. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram?
  10. Thanks for your reply. I have a hand operated vacuum pump, so I can test the function of the actuator/wastegate (also the lines I guess). Would you know how much vacuum the engine vacuum pump should pull? Is this vacuum monitored by the ECU? Pumaspeed offers a OEM turbocharger replacement, though it states it can be both brand new or remanufactured. It can also be had with upgraded bearings/internals.
  11. Hi, Hi seem to have poor bottom end due to building boost very slow. I do have a remap, but since the bottom end didn't change when remapped I don't believe it's related to this. The datalogs are WOT datalogs. This it a 2nd gear run with a gear change into 3rd. I suspected the BOV to have failed, but this checked out fine. I replaced it with a Turbosmart unit anyways. Here's a 2nd and 3rd gear WOT run. I have been thinking about checking out the wastegate, actuator and boost solenoid. Any thoughts?
  12. I have not had any engine malfunction warnings since the dealer reactivated the fuel pump prime function. I can also confirm that you will see low fuel pressure at the fuel rail before starting the engine. So if you have a OBD reader just check the fuel rail pressure before starting the car (and also having it sit overnight).
  13. Replacing the high pressure fuel pump didn't help. I returned the car to the dealer. They told me today to tell me they probably had solved the P0191 engine malfunction fault at "key on". They told me that the fuel pump hadn't been priming at "key on" (or was it when door is opened?), as this function was deactived in the module (PCM?)! Who knows how this happened (they sure didn't)... I also had another P025C, which made the engine stop while driving. It fired right up again. The dealer has not found anything abnormal related to this.
  14. So I replaced the high pressure fuel pump today. Will see tomorrow if it was the one causing issues. But I'm not sure what to believe anymore regarding the fuel prime when ignition on. While having the low pressure fuel hose disconnected from the HP pump, I cycled the key on/off several times and no fuel would come out unless I cranked the engine.