JohnF

Budding Enthusiast
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About JohnF

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Profile Information

  • First Name
    John
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk1 auto estate
  • Ford Year
    2000
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Northamptonshire

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  1. Perhaps I should have clarified by saying 'exposing the unused wall of the cylinder in front of the piston to air and moisture'. The disc and pads would have to be very worn indeed to allow the piston to protrude from the cylinder! By wearing the pads right down to the 1.5mm allowance (or changing them as soon as you hear the dreaded metallic screech) you ensure that for much of its life the walls of the cylinder are behind the piston and thus bathed in brake fluid, so it won't corrode. Hope all clear now. It works for me - I have never had to replace a seized caliper.
  2. Our X reg 1.6 auto estate is 18yrs old, 134,000m, biggest bills were coil pack (125,000m), fuel pump and new filter (114,000m), £100 welding to rear sill rust (March 2017) which had crept unseen under the sealing too near the seat belt attachment. Everything else is original, apart from brakes, oil, plugs, wipers etc. I grease the brake pipes and keep the underneath bits free of rust. With its Yamaha engine, Mazda auto and clever rear suspension for capaciousness, Ford really got this one right. Even the exhaust and all the rubbery suspension bits and boots are still original.
  3. Ours (original) failed at 125,000m 17yrs old. Now on 134,000, HT leads (original) were not replaced, and neither were plugs which were replaced at 103,000m
  4. It might be carbon/dirt build up on the edges of the circular butterfly valve in the throttle body, which is designed to not quite close the circular tube bit of the air intake so the engine can breathe when idling. If too much carbon is deposited it will virtually completely seal the air intake when the accelerator is not pressed. Our Focus was occasionally cutting out when coasting, and the EML was occasionally coming on, so I removed the rubber intake hose and cleaned the edges of the white plastic disc butterfly valve and it's been fine ever since.
  5. Why change it? If it's a nice clean pinky reddish colour I wouldn't bother. It is a sealed system and corrosion needs oxygen, which will be used up by now. If you change it, you will introduce more. The coolant in our 18yr old Focus is original, nice clean pinky reddish, and I have no intention of changing it. In our 14yrs of ownership I have topped it up only once, a year ago, only 250mls needed.
  6. Our Mk1 auto estate 1.6 Zetec is 18yrs old (134,000m) and I do not agree with this, apart from rusting at the seams. The Yamaha designed engine has a very sturdy cambelt design driving only a tensioner pulley and two small camshafts which spread what little load there is. It was designed to last at least 150,000m and they very rarely fail. I am certainly not risking a cack-handed apprentice exchanging a belt which still looks like new for possibly an inferior product and putting one or both cam cogs a tooth or two out of synch. The 10yr 100,000m advice is merely precautionary. If you must change something, change the tension pulley as this is far more likely to fail than the aramid belt which is so strong that only slightly thicker ones are used to drive powerful motor bikes.
  7. Yes, looks like failed CHG. It probably overheated, warped the head and blew the gasket.
  8. 'Worn'? How worn? Beware being conned into unnecessary work! Our Mk 1 Focus auto estate front discs lasted nearly 100,000m, only changed because pads (second lot - they should last around 40-50k unless you are boy racer) needed changing. Service the discs occasionally - take them off and hammer/grind off the rusty bits. If you don't allow discs and pads to wear, you run the risk of calipers seizing because the piston hardly ever travels beyond the beginning of its cylinder, thus exposing it to corrosion instead of being bathed in brake fluid.
  9. We have an X reg Focus 1.6 Zetec auto estate 134,000m and a few months ago the EML light came on occasionally for no obvious reason, easily cleared by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. The only time it had done it before was when it suddenly started misfiring owing to coil pack failure at 125,000m. The cambelt (inspected regularly), HT leads, all sensors and air filter (brushed clean every 20,000m or so) are all original and plugs less than 50k old. The engine also occasionally died after idling when coasting down a long hill. Searching for possible reasons I came across loads of technical coding suggestions (I haven't got a code machine) for replacing O2 sensor, mass air flow sensor etc....but the suggestion that made most sense was a USA u-tube video describing dirt/carbon build up on the large butterfly valve in the throttle body. This is precisely designed to not quite close, so the engine can breathe at idle. So I pulled off the wide rubber intake hose, and cleaned the sooty edges of the white plastic disc with a bit of rag wrapped round a length of thin clothes hanger wire soaked in petrol. (It says 'do not clean' inside! - apparently the circular flap valve is coated with a special substance). After several hundred more miles, the EML has stayed off and it no longer occasionally dies when coasting down long hills. So before you waste money needlessly replacing sensors, I suggest going back to basics and try this first! Hope this helps...