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Found 93 results

  1. Hi my daughter has a 2001 Ford Ka 1.3, Had 2 new batteries recently and new Alternator but after approx. a month the battery when tested is coming up as replace and car needs to be jump started off a jump pack nearly every time but battery had got so bad even the jump pack wouldn't get it started. This has happened before so new battery installed and as mentioned new alternator, I see no evidence that this year\model has the smart charge system as when registration given to motor factor they sent replacement alternator and battery and couldn't see any evidence of the 3 pin smart charge cable in engine compartment of car of the socket on either the original or replacement alternator, battery supplied was also a Lion (63) 40Ah Calcium Technology battery. I charged the battery overnight last night and have taken the following readings from the battery Battery Voltage engine not started = 12.90 V Battery Voltage engine started = 13.98 V Battery Voltage engine started and lights on = 13.90 V Battery Voltage engine started, lights on and fan blower on max = 13.74 V Battery Voltage engine started and fan blower on max = 13.86 V Battery Voltage engine started nothing else on after car running for 10 minutes = 14.08 V So these readings tell me that the alternator is sending charge to battery and voltage is dropping as expected when various power draws are made on the battery\alternator but doesn't explain why over a period of days (I know current cold spell doesn't help) the battery will die again?? Any help gratefully accepted!!
  2. Hi, I would like to charge the battery on my Focus Titanium X Estate 1.6L Ecoboost. It has key-less entry and lives in the car park outside of my flat. Now I have no issue (besides the awkward positioning) removing the battery, however the car needs to be locked while I take the battery up to the flat to charge. However, I am yet to find a way to lock the car before removing the battery without the alarm going off as soon as I remove a terminal from the battery. I have tried normal locking procedure, single press of the button, using the key inside the key fob and all of them result in the alarm going off when I remove the terminal. Locking the driver's door with the physical key after the battery is disconnected works, but it leaves the other three doors unlocked. Does anyone know the correct procedure for this where I get the battery off to charge, whilst the car is secure and I don't end up severely upsetting the neighbours? Cheers
  3. filouke

    battery.jpg

    From the album: Johnny

    put in a heavier battery and other attachment
  4. HENRYW

    Parasitic Draw?

    I have a 2012 Ford Focus Sedan MK3. About a week ago I started noticing problems starting my car. It would take a couple key turns before the engine would turnover, and the battery was very weak. As the week went on it got worse and worse until the car wouldn't start and the battery would go dead the more I tried. I got jumped it and took it to the shop to test out the battery. Battery tested fine, and it was charging in idle. After charging the battery I stopped at the gym for 1-2 hours, and the car started up fine, but after parking overnight the battery was completely dead once again in the morning. We concluded that there must be some sort of parasitic draw, but after doing a draw test and pulling fuses we couldn't locate the source of the draw. Anyone have a similar issue or any advice on where to start in locating the draw from here?
  5. DB987654

    Battery/Alternator Issue

    Hi all, I've had a look around the forums and have seen similar posts but thought it best to start a new one with my issue. About 2 weeks ago, I came to my Focus one morning and it wouldn't start. The battery had gone. Radio came on as I turned the key, but it didn't turn over. Jumped it, and it's been fine since. This morning, again came to my car to leave for work and exactly the same again. We jumped it, had a run around for a bit and came back home. Later this afternoon, it didn't start again, but after a few attempts it finally did without being jumped. Since then, it's started a few times this afternoon with no issue. We've had the battery checked this afternoon and it tests fine. Would the next step be having the alternator checked? I've been told today that alternators failing can give out a whirring noise, which come to think of it has been happening on and off for a few months but we've though nothing of it. It's a Focus zetec 2010 59 plate (2009). It'll be next week now before I can get to a garage. In the mean time, and to prepare me for costs, Is this the most likely culprit and does the whirring noise sound like it could be related? Thanks all!
  6. Hello! I've a problem with a Ford Focus MK2 and looking for advice as I don't want to run into mad costs, here's a quick introduction on what happened: Battery went flat - as radio and lights were turn on for too long without engine turned on. Car was jump started - it gained power back again, however it won't start. On ignition the lights on dashboard light up and it says 'Engine systems fault' and there's no error codes on OBD reader. Immobilizer is also rapidly flashing in red, then it starts giving a PATS code. Just as a note on ignition something in the engine makes noise - but it doesn't sound like any mechanical component. Could that be possible that instrument cluster forgot the keys? Are there any next steps I can take to solve the problem myself or with help of electrician? Looking forward hearing from you. Thank you! Adam
  7. I disconnected my Diesel 2007 Mondeo 12V car battery in the engine bay yesterday, only for about 2 seconds, to check the earth to body connection was good because it looked a little green in places on the surface - all was ok underneath so I tightened it up promptly. After this I had to put the Radio Code in again - all stations and SAT NAV settings and destinations were still present. This surprized me. But it got me thinking though I a radio code was needed... Are there any other effects by disconnecting the 12V car battery? Could it have wiped out anything else? Will anything have been lost from the e-Prom or ROM such as tuning settings or any other car setting? Only one effect I have noted is the tick over is slightly higher when it's warmed up. But then I'm not sure whether this was there before to be honest. I would appreciate any feedback. With Thanks
  8. MM92

    MK1 Battery light

    Hi all, Today the battery light started appearing on the dashboard when I was in natural sat at traffic lights. The light would then go out once I got into first and pulled away. There's been no loss of power etc when the light is on and off. windows, radio, wipers etc all the same speed etc. Plus, the last couple of days the revs have got stuck at the 1,200 mark before making its way down to 8/900 (normal) when I drop into neutral. (Again, no issues on power or gear changes). Would these be linked or well timed separate issues? Any ideas on what could be causing it/them? Thanks!
  9. hi guys so when i try to turn on my car, the battery light comes up and it won't start. :/ I've bought a replacement alternator but i can't work out how to replace the old one. the two top bolts are easily accessible but i have no clue how to get to the bottom bolt or remove and replace the belt. :/ can anyone please give a guide or some useful tips? it would be much appreciated as I'm desperate to get it back on the road again XD thanks a lot, James :)
  10. Whilst driving my information light keeps flashing with the error 'luggage compartment' - not sure what could be causing this, checked the boot - nothing catching etc... completely closed. It did this approx 1 month ago and then stopped however started again. Also display screen is showing red lines with the menu delaying when going through different options - when you drive the vehicle for a while the lines vanish and no delay on the menu option - seemed to be fine whilst driving then when parked the car for a couple of hours it dropped out and showed the delay and lines again, thought this was the battery however changed this and still no luck, any advice would be great. Thanks
  11. Hi i am new here hope you can help me. I got Focus mk1 1.6 2003 last week 119500 miles on the clock full dealer service stamps till 2015 timing belt done at 94000. Car was driving well until yesterday evening driving from work I noticed it cuts then restarted and a oil or battery would turn then disappear quickly when braking but not when stopped however it idled roughly and sounds like a small diesel engine. I have been to my mechanic (Indy)who said its probably bad petrol from Esso and suggested I get Shell V Power and blast on the motorway. I asked about the idle control valve and said its not it. He also blocked one of the air intake pipes on the engine and replicated the problem and blew into the pipes while disconnected from the engine but did not feel any blockage in the intake hoses. On my way to Shell it turned off at the lights completely and battery light came on before oil and engine light. I restarted straight away no problem and drove home having decided to do the whole petrol business on my way to work later on as I use the motorway anyways. When it was time to go it cranked roughly, wouldn't start and starter motor would screech before it stopped cranking. I managed to start it by stepping on the gas while cranking and it woul rev normally till I left it to idle and when revs below 1000 then it would shutt off again, haven't touched it since after blowing my Fiats engine 2 weeks ago cos driving a car with a slight problem. Any advice is welcome. Also no codes on diagnostic but when engine is off fuel and temp gauge go to half and work properly when engine is on. Sorry for the novel.
  12. Also the hazards will stop working, is there a fuse that controls this group when the battery is on standby and if so which one is it?
  13. I just bought a ford ka 2004 from a friend who told me about a battery issue. The battery charges the car at 19 volts. What is the problem and how can i fix it?
  14. Like a !Removed! iIleft my headlights on overnight which of course drained the battery, iIhave put in a new one but still nothing, the motor isn't even trying to turn over (that chugging noise) tried a jump start and bump start but still nothing any ideas? Thanks car is an 06 fiesta
  15. Karrie

    Battery Drain

    Hi I have a 2009 Fiesta Zetec, I had a problem a year ago when the battery used to just go completely flat. Battery replaced 9 months aga, sorted... or so I thought.....It's started again. A mate put it on a quick diagnostics and informs me that it's the radio/cd/audio console is discharging 1 - 1.5 amps when the car is turned off. Is this a common thing with Fiestas? Is there a cheap fix other than removing the audio fuse from behind the glove box (which I've done)? Cheers, Karrie :) Also my auto gearbox console has recently disintegrated... has anyone else had this problem?
  16. stiby

    Electrical Power Issues

    Hi All, FYI before I go into my story this is an 11 plate 1.6 Ecoboost petrol engine with start-stop. having lots of issues with my S-MAX of late, first of all it was suspected a power drain whilst the car was stood still but now seems like an issue with the alternator. The power issues first started after driving around all evening and when waiting at the last stop for my Son to come out of club the car warned me low battery. Days later I got stuck at traffic lights with no ability to turn the engine over, RAC tried to jump with nothing happening. Mechanic pronounced the battery dead at the scene and put a new, larger battery (have no idea if its the right type). Anyway all fine for a few days but the starter seems to be getting slower and even whilst driving home last night the power steering failed, battery light came on etc... The car would not start at this point. Now this morning car would start and I found the in car diagnositcs (thanks you tube), now the battery on the dash display (I don't have a volt meter handy), reads 12.6V even when the engine it running, then put stuff on like lights heaters this goes down to under 12 volts. If this is showing power at the battery terminals I assume this would be higher as the alternator charges the batter, but hay I don't know. Anyway looking around the web there seems to cables going into the alternator, the power output and regulator connector. Now these videos ect talk about a 3 pin connector, but looking under my bonnet (looks like the alternator is on the front left of the engine, there are 2 connectors a large cable (power to battery) and nother connector, but the connector has holes for 2 cables and only 1 cable going in ?!?!? I was looking to unplug second cable to turn the alternator into none smart mode and see if that charged the battery. Anyone have details on this engine and its alternator, also the second plug, should that just pull out or is it clipped in? Thanks to any help recieved. PS have attached image of what I think to be the alternator and its two connectors.
  17. I've just bought a 54 plate Focus C-Max 1.6 diesel. The previous owner told me that he has very recently changed the battery and since then there has been this beeping sound from the dash. It is a long beep that sounds for about 3 seconds every couple of minutes. Any suggestions on what could be causing it and how to rectify?
  18. Hi Guys! New to these forums and i have a concern about my car which I though I would put to you guys and gals. Bought myself a Ford Fiesta ST Mk6 57 plate back in September '14 and loving it. Did have one problem, kind of early, which was when I would go to work in the morning the battery would be dead, or would die on me very quickly if i was in there listening to music with the engine off. Gave the car to my girlfriends step-dad who is a MOT engineer who did some power tests? on it and determined the battery was dead. Got a new battery and everything seems to be fine, hasn't died on me since (although I'm now paranoid about having electrics on too long without the engine). Recently i have noticed that when changing down to 2nd and 1st the tachometer would suddenly drop down to about 700, quite quickly, causing the lights to dim and then would shoot up to about 1,100. This doesn't happen all the time but mainly when i pull into my driveway; i have to slowdown considerably as its a tight turn with a high curb. This doesn't happen when changing between higher gears just when dropping down to 2nd and 1st. It also happens when reversing into my parking spot, revs would drop, lights would dim and previous owner has fitted an annoying reverse sensor (that doesnt work), this would also make a dying noise. I combated that problem by giving the car extra revs when reversing. The worst time this has happened is when i pulled into my driveway and my revs dropped and rose, i took the car out of gear to roll the rest of the way and the revs kept going up and down until i came to a full stop. I have had a look through the internet and as you can imagine i have found all sorts of different causes, belts, alternator, battery, battery cables but i wanted to see if anyone here has had a similar problem or knows what it may be? The car has only done 50k miles so i would like to think a new alternator is not needed? Let me know your thoughts. (i will get an engineer to look at it as soon as i can) Thank you! Dev.
  19. Hi all, Apologies... yet another "battery warning light / voltage Issue" I see this is a common problem with various solutions. Just after an opinion or two on whether I will be ok driving around until the weekend and doing a longer drive on Saturday or should I look to fix the issue before then? I am part exing the car on Saturday but I have to make it to Harpenden from High Wycombe to do so! Some details of the issue: About 6 weeks ago the battery light came on on my Focus (1.6 LX mk1 2005) and stayed on A couple of days later the car would not start after work I got a push start and got about half way home (approx 2.5 miles into a 5 mile journey - just moved house and journey is about half of what it was) Dash went blank - no speedo, lights, warning lights RAC called, suspected alternator, fitted a temporary battery which got me to my local garage They replaced the alternator, all good and oil was topped up as it was low A couple of weeks later the light came back The garage fitted another alternator (the first was faulty), all good Another week and the light came on then disappeared Back to garage, they could find no fault Another week on again and after a longish drive too (High Wycombe to Watford and back) light comes on and disappears Find dash trick to check voltage - 11.2V engine off and 13.5V engine on. Booked into an electircal specialist for fault finding. Have kept it in diagnostic mode showing voltage while driving and it fluctuates between 13.5V and 13.7V occasionally reaching and 11.2 - 11.4 when off (generally 11.2 ish). I have been doing a longer circuit so that my drive to/from work is a little longer (25-30 minutes instead of 10) in a bid to get some form of charge into the battery! Have been looking at cars any way so on Saturday I drove from High Wycombe to Slough, (light came on and went off at the services in slough), then to Harpenden and back home (no light). Placed a deposit on a car in Harpenden. The light has again come on on arrival at work this morning and then gone - but I've just gone out to do the dash test and it is on again... So my question is am I safe to keep driving it and to do a motorway journey on Saturday or should I take it to the garage round the corner this evening and ask them to revisit the issue?
  20. dixon31

    Buying

    Hi im looking at buying a ford focus 1.8 zetec , petrol , when i test drove it , the engine management light came on , i aske dthe owner and he said if i pull over stop and then restart the car the light will go out .... his explantion was the battery is faulty and just needs replacing ... does this sound right or shall i leave the car alone ?
  21. Hi all I own a 2008 Ford Focus Zetec 1.6 Petrol. Couple of days ago the battery on it went flat. I called up roadside assistance (AA) for a jump start (and to establish the reason behind battery dying all of a sudden) Using a jump starter to the battery the car was started and the engine left running for good 10-15 min. however the moment the battery charger was removed the car died...... The multimeter gave him the following readings VOLTS - 11.29V MEASURED - 62 EN (A) RATING - 390 EN (A) I am assuming the battery is done for good and needs replacing. Is this assumption correct? But that doesnt explain battery draining all of a sudden. I am not sure of the part number of the battery since i cant see the full text on it (due to clamps) but attached picture shows the part number to be 6G9N-10655-LA Is this the right part number? I tried searching for a new battery using this and could not find ANY online. I was told that its a type 079 battery (but this type doesnt appear anywhere) I intend to buy a 12V Silver Calcium Varta or Exide with a CCA of around 600, however i just cant seem to find any which correspond to the FORD battery part number i have. Any one had to buy a replacement for their ford focus? Any suggesstions/recommendations on the battery? Also how do i make sure that the problem is the dead battery and not anything else (like battery draining power due to any wrong wiring etc) any help is hugely appreciated
  22. onlyoneunited

    Platinum Battery?

    My car is taking a bit longer to start lately, and sometimes the clock and fuel gauge flicker and restart when i turn the ignition- so I'm feeling I'll need a new battery asap. Has anyone heard of platinum prestige batties? I'm thinking of taking the hassle free option and getting one from kwik fit down the road-otherwise i'd buy a bosch and fit it myself but it would save me a lot of driving to buy and dispose the battery.
  23. I have recently purchased a 05 Mondeo 2lt tdci....apart from a new DMF clutch crank pulley belt tensuoner etc I have a annoying intermittant problem with the battery light intermitantly coming on ...If i switch of the engine and restart it goes out and stays off ..the car has a new looking alternator starts first time with no sign of excessive battery drain ..anyone have any ideas , there does not seem to be any physical symptoms , just a annoyance Steve
  24. David Hardman

    Key Fob Battery Needs Replacing

    Ford S-max Titanium 2012 My S-max is told me I needed to replace the key in my keyless start fob. So I have replaced the battery but the car still tells me it needs a new battery. I have used the same make and size of battery that was in the key fob. I was wondering if anyone else has this problem and what the solution is. Is it just that the computer needs resetting? How do I do this if so.
  25. Ews

    Battery Warning

    Good morning guys, I've noticed a couple times now my 'Low Battery' warning indicator has come on. It's a bit worrying. Does this mean I need a new battery? I have a Ford Focus Edge 2011. As far as I know the previous owner never changed the battery. I'm considering going to Halfords and getting the battery checked. I got caught out with a flat battery with my last car, had to ring the RAC and ended up forking out £70 for a new one! I don't particularly want to go through that again, I'd rather catch it before it happens this time. I've been told the life of a battery is about 3 years, not sure if this is correct? Thanks in advance, any help would be appreciated. Ewan