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Found 93 results

  1. Hi Everyone! I'm new here and in desperate need of help. Let me explain the story and hopefully one of you have had this problem or will be able to assist me. I went away last Saturday for a week in Spain, I flew from Gatwick and left my Ford Focus 2010 Zetec, 1.6 Diesel in the long stay car park. I've had this car since March 2018 and had no problems with it what so ever. Usually I drive this car every single day without fail and it will do around 70 miles every day it's driven. Sometimes less (40-50), sometimes more (100+). So it's never been sat for this long since I've had it! I brought it on 52,000 miles and now I'm on 64,000 I think! So, after a week at Gatwick, when I returned to it, I found that I could not unlock it with the key fob only the drivers door while putting the key in the door. This only unlocked the drivers door and not the rest of the car, as due to the battery being dead the central locking didn't work. When I turned the key, there was nothing but clicking coming from under the glove box! No lights on the dashboard no nothing. I tried bump starting it, but it wouldn't come to life at all. It wasn't until I found a guy with some jump leads that we could get the car going again and I did the 100 mile drive back home which it had done previously to being left at Gatwick the previous week. The car had no problems at all on the drive home and I have used it all day today with no problems. I've looked online and can't really find anyone with the same problem! The only one I've seen is that the glove box light stays on. However, I started recording a video on my phone, put it in the glove box and the light goes off as it should when the glove box door is closed. The light also isn't hot so it can't of been on! I took it to Halfords today to see if it's just a problem with my battery. They could not test the battery as their equipment was showing something was draining the battery. However everything was off! Nothing was plugged into the cigarette lighters, interior light was off, key was in my hand. So, I could not get a reading from that. He then advised me that something is draining the battery and because it doesn't get left for a week, it's never caused me a problem. Now it has and it's bothering me as I'm going away for 2 weeks to Australia in December and don't particularly want to come back to a flat battery! My car has a sub woofer fitted which runs a wire straight from the battery to the sub but has an amp wire going to the stereo (the stereo isn't factory) so the sub switches off when the car turns off we also tested this at Halfords that it wasn't the sub by removing the fuse from the subs power cable as it has an inline fuse. I also have a dash cam that I have connected to the fuse box so that it also switches off when I turn the car off and take my key out the ignition. The Halfords technician said that since the dash cam is in a fuse and connected to the ignition it wouldn't be the problem. Other than that, the car is standard and I haven't ever spliced any wires or messed with the factory wiring or anything else in the car for that matter. Can anyone help me diagnose this? Has anyone had this problem before? Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Joshua
  2. Evening, all. Just over a week ago, I purchased a second-hand, '11 plate, 1.6L Petrol Ford Focus 1.6L Ti-VCT, from a local, highly-reputable, family-run garage. With little over 66,000 miles on the clock, a full-service was carried out, and MOT test performed (and passed, with no advisories), prior to collection of the car. There is, however, an issue, which the garage was aware of and agreed to fix as part of the purchase, with the battery light intermittently appearing on the dashboard. They replaced the battery and the alternator, but the battery light keeps resurfacing, albeit it, at seemingly random intervals. I've taken back the car again since, but the mechanics are at a complete loss as to why it's happening, having apparently run a diagnostics check on the car. Over the course of the past week, I've covered in excess of 300 miles. During that period, the battery light has come on four times, whilst driving. On two of the occasions, it appeared for all of two miles, before disappearing. On the other two occasions, it's appeared for a much longer period before eventually vanishing - approx. 20-30 miles, on both occasions. Interestingly, on one of the latter occasions, I recall the car being under "full load", with the front windscreen heater and headlights on, in heavy rain, whilst driving back down the M1 from Rotherham to Derby. At this time, we also had two phones charging from the cigarette lighter. I pulled over in a service station, switched off the engine and switched it back on again. For the first 5-10 seconds, the battery light never surfaced. Shortly after, it popped up again, and remained on, even after unplugging the two phones, turning off the front windscreen heater, and my headlights, for the duration of the journey home. Since then, I've covered another 120 or so miles, as part of my daily commute to and from work, in Leicester - again, from Derby. Yesterday, I drove under "normal load", with no headlights on, no front or rear windscreen heater on, and just one phone being charged. During both the 30-mile journey to work in the morning, and the 30-mile journey back from work in the evening, the battery light didn't come on once. I then covered another 30 miles this morning with a little more load - one phone charging and the headlights on. Again, no battery indication on the dashboard. However, during my commute home, when I had no headlights on, and just my phone charging, the battery light came on again, initially for all of 1-mile before disappearing. About 6-miles later, it came on again and remained on for the next 10-miles. I then pulled over, and switched the engine off, and back on again, and the battery light never showed again, for the remaining 10-miles or so to my home. I don't think there's a loose connection, as the battery light doesn't suddenly come on after hitting a pothole, or by going over a speed bump too quickly, for example. The garage did say that they also tightened all connections, as part of their own investigative efforts. As I have hopefully helped illustrate, it's a really intermittent, and somewhat odd issue to diagnose. I'm by no means technical when it comes to cars, but through a systematic approach of trying to progressively increase the load on the battery day-by-day, I was hoping to be able to prove that it was a load-related issue, but it doesn't seem to be the case. I'm reluctant to take it back to the garage again, as it's pretty apparent they have done everything they can, with the skills, expertise and diagnostics equipment they have available to get to the bottom of this. I've also since spoken to another independent auto electrician, who advised that unless the battery light is on at the time of running the diagnostics check, it's very difficult to shortlist possible root causes. I've now read a whole number of other forum posts, across a multitude of Focus communities, who have shared similar issues, but none, quite as specific as mine. In the cases I have read about, the battery light always remains on, after turning off the ignition, then back on again. I have witnessed this once, but equally, as mentioned in the most recent instance of the battery light coming on, turning the engine off and on again, seemed to trigger the light to disappear from the dashboard. As much as I don't want to fork out for it due to financial constraints, I am strongly considering taking the car to TC Harrison in Derby, for them to run their own diagnostics equipment on my car, and potentially fixing the fault, if indeed, identifiable. Other posts I have read, suggest their diagnostics setup is newer and more advanced than the standard setup offered by most local, independent garages. Is there any truth in this? If so, are their technicians any more likely to find the potential problem, than an independent auto electrician? I'm just concerned about spending money on a diagnostics check if, in turn, the battery light needs to be present on the dashboard, at the time of the check being run, as chances are, it won't be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Having had a gearbox that failed on me in my old Ford Grand C-Max after little over 80,000 miles, I'm desperate not to squander more money on my new car, on something that may not shed any further light on the problems I'm encountering, if that makes sense. Nevertheless, safety is paramount, as my Focus is a family car used to take my two-year-old and three-year-old out and about in, at the weekend, and on holidays in the UK. Thanks in advance for all your help, everyone. Joe
  3. Lauren_ir0n

    Ford Fiesta Ghia Tdci 2006

    Hi looking for some technical advice here. My Ford Fiesta Ghia wont start, I’m a learner driver so this car isn’t in frequent use. The battery started to go flat and after jump starting it everything appeared to be fine. After starting it everyday for a week to check that the battery wasn’t going flat, one day the car wouldn’t start at all. Initially, we believed the cause to be the battery. After buying a brand new one and installing, the car still won’t Crank and start. The radio lights etc come on and work, but when turning the key there is nothing there at all. can anyone offer some guidance? This is my first car and am stressed about having a huge garage bill. It would be useful if anyone could suggest some things to try to at least rule out some possible faults. Thanks in advance
  4. Hello! just purchased a focus 2009 titanium which has a sat nav radio. I was told that the battery had just been replaced however since doing so the radio/sat nav does not stay on for longer than about 10 seconds. I have been been able to program the date/time and it does remain correct, however it will not stay on. Is there a way to check the battery or should I check the wiring behind the radio? thanks!!!
  5. EddyOS

    Battery Recommendations

    Hey guys, So, turns out my battery is shot so I need to get a new one. I've heard that silver calcium batteries are the ones to go for, but is it better to spend a bit more and get a 'name' brand or will anything do the job as long as it's the right spec? And on the topic of spec, the user handbook is next to useless so which would be right for the 2.0l Duratec HE petrol engine? I've seen two BHP versions of this engine (140 and 145), but the official spec of mine is 142 so that also doesn't help! TIA
  6. I have the following problem: The alternator has been replaced and the voltage regulator (Motorcraft XW4U-10C359-AB replaced with Motorcraft VR-F 910) but the voltage on the battery varies from 14.9 to 15.3 V which is probably too high. . Has anyone had such a problem? (Auto is Focus 2.0 SE, 2002, Made in USA) Thank you for your answers...
  7. Had a low key fob battery warning on dash so changed battery and everything is fine for 2 days then nothing works so have to use key and insert fob into ignition. changed battery several times and same thing each time! Please help as I'm at my wits end cheers guys
  8. Hi, (excuse English mistakes as it is not my native language) I am looking for help, before I decide to probably scrap my car. I have a 2005 Ford Mondeo TDCI. Battery was dead and the auto shop did not have the exact battery, but close to it (in size and power). Dumb me did not realize that the poles were reversed from what I need and I hooked it up with the wrong polarity. The alternator started smoking quite badly before I realized what was going on (it was dark). Now car appears to be dead, even with correct battery. Fuses appear to be good, but the only light I get on the dashboard is the yellow airbag light + the little red light in the clock is blinking. No dome lights or anything will come on. 1. What could be the issues ? ECU/ Alternator ...? 2. Cost to fix? I asked a mechanic here and he basically told me to scrap it, if you count mechanics cost against cars worth. Thanks for your help - Dynamo
  9. Hey Guys, posting on behalf of my Miss's, getting a random issue with her car where it's either a power drain or something more sinister where it just decides its doesn't want to tick over or feels like it can't. First time it happened it was freezing cold and I put it down to the miss's overdoing it trying to start the engine and draining the battery and not giving the diesel time to warm up properly, happens in my car every now and then when it's proper cold. the second time was last night after she'd driven it back from work and left it less than an hour, went to go and low and behold it's not having it. It gets about two attempts in to starting and it just seems like its struggling and then the starter motor sounds like machine gun fire. That's not the best description but I don't know how else to describe a car starting. The only thing that fixed it last time was a full battery charge, if anyones had this experience and has had it fixed or has ideas that'll be great. Cheers
  10. mattwlkr

    New Battery

    Hello, I've had my car over 5yr and not replaced the battery, should i wait for it to die or replace you rekon? Any preferred brands or places to buy a replacement? Tried eurocarparts but they are well expensive. - Matt
  11. lloydyyy

    Potential battery issues

    Bit of history; I've had my 2008 Mk6.5 Fiesta for just under 7 years and the battery seems to the original Ford silver calcium battery. At the moment I car share with a friend for work journeys and my car was left standing on my drive for a week a few weeks ago, but when I went to drive it on the weekend on the same week the car struggled to start - as if the battery was dead. Tonight, same thing happened and the car has only been standing for a couple of days. I went to turn the ignition over and the symptoms were that of a dead battery, but the car started after a second or so. My hunch is that the battery is on its way out, but I wanted to post here to ask for some advice before taking the next step. The car has never suffered any issues starting, even in freezing temperatures, until recently.
  12. My 2009 focus TDCI been brilliant till six months ago. Battery dies when not used for four days. Garage could only find tiny drain and fixed that. Put in new battery too. Problem not fixed though. The radio/CD player was intermittently available or dead ie. no display. Now basically not available. Also the driving display stays on when car switched off. To be exact it does not go out fully - only the central part of the display goes off. These faults been happening all this time. Has anyone experienced this? Have any suggestions to fix this? Many Thanks.
  13. 2 weeks ago I bought a 2012 fiesta zetec s. Since a couple of days after I bought it, the car was struggling to start a wee bit. I thought this might be because the person I bought it off barely ran it, and I mainly use it to drive to work and back (10 minutes from home). The car recently has been struggling to start a wee bit more (even if I took it big runs to charge the battery), it could sit for a few hours then it would not turn over and sound really powerless when turning the key, with lights on the dashboard flickering too. But it eventually would start. For the interior light to turn off and the dashboard to go off, the car must be locked. Is this right for this kind of car? A few times when turning the key, there has been a noise that sounds just like the noise it makes when the petrol light goes on. Just want to check that this sounds like the car battery is on it's way out before I buy a new one? And it's not another kind of problem?
  14. Hi The picture shows the dimly illuminated two lights. Very intermittent. Trying to sell car and blocking sale. When in fault, lights appear as soon as i press unlock on the key fob. HELP!!!
  15. TheScoobyCollector

    Help - Fiesta keyless battery low

    Hi all, The battery in my keyless fob for a 2013 fiesta ecoboost titanium X is low and needs replacing. Which type of battery do I need? I went to Halfords and they advised it would need reprogramming from the dealer, is this true? This is the only key I have aswell so don't want it to die. Kind regards, The Scooby Collector.
  16. Recently had battery issues ending up putting a new battery in. The car sat without a battery for about 24 hours. Now the fuel gauge reads a quarter which is about right but the low fuel level indicator has illuminated even though I know there is fuel in the tank. Any ideas? ford fiesta 2009 1.6 diesel
  17. Fiesta_Tester

    Should I buy?

    Hi All, Looking for a bit of help/advice please. We're getting a 2015 Ecoboost Zetec and have found a decent one for our budget BUT I have 2 reservations: 1. Under the bonnet, on the sound-proofing just behind the battery there is a white residue, could be mildew where the cars been sitting idle or maybe a battery acid leak? The battery itself was clean, all the terminals and leads looked good and there wasn't any sign of leakage that I could see so I'm just wondering if anyone else has had/got this weird white substance on the bulkhead sound insulation - or any suggestions? 2. It's from a Ford dealer, 1 owner, was registered by them Mar 2015 and has done 12,340miles. It only has one service stamp though (also by the dealer) at about 5,400 miles / March 16 so technically it's missed a second service by 6 months (should have had one in March this year). It's only done about 6,000 since the last (5,400 mile) service in March 16 so I'm not worried about the mileage particularly. The dealer is offering to do this service as part of the sale and has promised to honour the remaining manufacturer's warranty (6 months). My question is I guess, should I avoid this car because of this missed service or am I worrying too much as the dealer will do it before we take delivery... the car seems in good condition, drives well so it's really only the missed service that's stopping me at the moment. Any help/suggestions gratefully received.... Thanks.
  18. Since I bought the car a couple of months ago (1.4 Titanium Auto, 27k, with keyless start), I have had the battery go flat on me 3 times. The battery is a Halfords HCB063. After the second time I popped into Halfords for a battery check. Guy said it looked like their most recent design and was probably only a year or so old, which tied in with the fitted sticker starting at 2016. The battery checked out fine, but showed it needed more charge. Flat again yesterday, so charged it up overnight and spent some time on it with the multimeter yesterday. Battery voltage was 12.57 V after charging, and 13.95V with the engine running, so looks like the alternator is charging OK. I then disconnected the earth battery cable, and measured the amps being pulled after the car was locked, and got 0.32A. This is high, as generally the draw should not be greater than 50mA (0.05A), as a comparison, our VW Polo was only pulling 0.01A. Started pulling fuses, and removing either fuse 16 (Powertrain control module, high and low cooling fan), 18 (Powertrain Control module) or 27 (PCM) dropped the drain to 0.09A. At this point I'm stuck, as none of the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual show those fuses, or the PCM .Can anyone help?
  19. Evening All, wondered if anyone could give me some advice or point me in the right direction. I had a power steering leak which had leaked everywhere and into the alternator, I fixed the leak. The battery warning light came on only when there is a load on i.e. Headlights. The light would come on for about 5mins disappear for 10 mins and then come back on. i checked across battery terminals with a multimeter with engine off and it read 12.8V engine on the voltage did not change. Checked output voltage from alternator and it was about 11.5V. i thought it could be the alternator, so I bought new alternator. I also fitted new battery and belt while I as there. All was ok for around a day and then the problems began to start again. I have checked the wires from the plug as far as I can I can't see any signs of a break or corrosion. Anyone have any ideas?? car is fiesta 2007 1.4 tdci
  20. Keshia26

    Pcm problem or wiring?

    Hey i have a focus that is causing me no end of trouble. First didn't idle right and would cut out now and again. The intermittent power steering on cold or dam/wet days Then all the gauges would fly up and down no power steering, turn it off and started all fine again. Then cut out all together rac called out restarted it. Had a new battery & alternator. That worked for a week, but engine light was on. monday loss of power steering while driving, all haywire with the gauges again. Power steering wouldn't come back on. Left it an hour all was fine. Next day went to start it all dash lights flashing, multiple malfunctions and it's died. Garage are saying it's down to the pcm! But are not 100% sure it will solve the issue Any advice??
  21. Hello everyone, I wondered if anyone could help... I have a Focus Mk2.5 Titanium 1.8 TDCi - 58 Reg. Last night, the red battery light came on on my dash when I was driving to the gym. I went to the gym, came out and the car started fine but light remained on. This morning, I started the car and the battery (red), ABS (amber) and the Slip Indicator/Stability Control Fault Indicator (red) lights were on. The stereo also made a loud humming/buzzing sound depending how loud the volume was turned up, so I turned it down and turned the car off then jumped on the bus to work! Any ideas what this might be? The battery died in November and I replaced it with a brand new one... Alternator or ECU maybe? I will also add that the cigarette lighter is always powered, I have to unplug my dash cam every time I turn the car off otherwise it will stay powered on through the cigarette lighter - not sure if this is linked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy Friday!
  22. About a month ago, my front left dip light blew, simple fix, and after a few weeks, it blew again, and i changed it again. Today, (after a few more weeks) its blown again, same one, so i changed it. (since i bought a pack of 2 and used one from that pack) When it blew however after getting petrol, it blew, how i knew though was because all lights, (the dip on the right hand side, speedo illumination) went MUCH brighter, the wipers sped up quite a bit and the battery light came on, then after a while, about 10 or so seconds, it went back to normal and i noticed, one side of the road seemed a bit more dim, so I stopped for a bit to look, and it was the same dip bulb that had blown, so I got home and changed the bulb with the last one i had, then i had to go back into town to do a small amount of shopping, and as i left the shop, 10-20 mins after i arrived, i started the car up and it seemed ok, then i left the junction where the shop was and noticed the battery light on, wipers going fast again, and lights going brighter, so i pulled over in this small car park, where i had to look and see that it had blown again, minutes after i replaced it, and i continued to another shop, to get fish and chips, the entire journey, the battery light not going off this time, also the speedometer getting to 10mph, but then dropping to 0 suddenly, (also the fuel needle dropping to 0 the same time the speedometer needle drops) so i stopped, turned the car off and got my stuff from the fish and chip shop, started the car up and it, seemed ok (apart from the dip that blew earlier) but as i pulled off to go up a road to turn around and head back home, the battery light came on again, so i thought if i turn full beam on, put the fog light on and put all wipers on full would drain some of that charge, just to see if it would go off, it did for a while until i got up to speed, (speed limit, 30MPH) (by now i had put the full beam off and fog light off since i was in a town and there were more cars around) and it came on again, so i realised it didnt work and i put the wipers back to normal speed, and turn the fan back down, and continued back home, where the battery light was on for the entire journey. Im just wondering, as i think i know the signs but i just want to make sure, is it an alternator problem? Overcharging a bit too much? Or is it something else? Like a short circuit or something else?
  23. Hi All, This is my first post, I bought a Focus 1.8 TDCI LX 2005 5 days ago. Unfortunately it has already developed an intermittent starting problem, which leaves me feeling worried I've inherited a known problem here. Intermittently, the car just doesn't start, and instead the immobiliser light blinks. At first I thought it was a flat battery as it was cranking but was weak. Then after leaving it for a few mins it started just fine? Then again, the following the day, when turning the key, absolutely nothing. Seemed like a complete flat battery despite radio working. Then a few minutes later it started just fine. As of today, car is working absolutely normal, with no immobiliser flashing/ weak cranking. Car just starts perfectly. This is really strange! Any ideas? JP
  24. Hi there, Hoping that someone can help shed some light on what battery I need to get for my 2006 mk2 focus. I had a good look online, with different parts suppliers showing different batteries with different codes, leaving me completely confused! From what I have seen on previous threads, I need a silver calcium battery to fit the charging system?? Currently I have an AA "AA005 battery 64ah" battery that's on its way out (not holding it's charge) - confirmed by my friendly AA mechanic. If anyone can shed some light on a battery that would suit that doesn't bugger up my car that would be very much appreciated! So confused! Thanks in advance! Ed
  25. voodoochile73

    Focus 2012 charging battery

    Hi, I'm trying to help my father with his focus. It's a 2012 model and he feels the battery needs a charge as its frosty mornings and he's not using the car too much at the moment. The green battery light isn't shoing either. He said the manual doesnt fully cover removing and charging the battery so he's unsure if its just a case taking out as normal and charging (negative lead off first etc) but he's uncertain if its possible with newer batteries. It's a Finis 1693470 12v 100RC start stop battery. The manual mentions not connecting the negative cable to flat battery also but its not totally clear to understand in what circumstance it refers to, maybe he has to take to to Ford to replace? We'd appreciate some help with this, thanks.