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Found 22 results

  1. Rob63

    ECU problem?

    Hi, I have a Ford Fiesta 1. 6 TDCi start stop 2014 model. I keep getting engine codes p0100 (MAF circuit malfunction), c2a00(not sure) and codes p0111 (air intake temperature) p0200(injector circuit malfunction) coming up about once a week. Always in pairs and turning the start stop function off. The car runs perfectly normally with no problems. Ford main dealer changed the EGR valve which seemed to cure it for a few months. Also has new fuel filter and battery. The wiring looks physically sound as far as I can tell. I've also fitted an extra earth lead to the engine and the ECU. Any ideas as to what to check next? Thanks for reading. Rob
  2. I have recently picked up a 2008 fiesta 1.6 tdci with 90k on the clocks. It runs well but i get this strange rotating noise sounds slightly metallic when accelerating hard in 1st or 2nd it seems to be constantly there in all gears but just louder in those gears. Happens when letting foot off the throttle too. Not had a chance to get underneath to check it out, if anyone has any ideas what it could be that would be great. Thanks.
  3. hello, i currently have a 1.6 tdci, its remapped and has a k&n airfilter on and a straight pipe exhaust (still has decat) i believe its on the round about 136+ mark but dont have a solid number as never dyno'ed it, i want to upgrade my turbo to a hybrid turbo but i want to know if anyone else has advice etc on it and can point me to right parts to upgrade and prices etc please ?
  4. Hey folks I own an ford focus 2010 tdci 110BHP, which about 2 weeks ago started to go into "limp home mode" i tried to diagnose the problem and found out that the turbo was leaking oil and the bearings where loose. Therefore i changed the turbo core yesterday. But it havn't fixed the problem. The car jerks like the fuel is cut sometimes while driving. i've tried and make some graphs in forscan trying to diagnose the problem, but i can't see the problem so i hope some of you can see what i can't.
  5. Hi CAR: 2008 Mk2 Ford Focus 1.6tdci Zetec, 94k, FSH. ISSUE: Went into limp mode, diagnosed as DPF codes. PRIOR TO ISSUE: very good running order with full service from Ford and some reputable garages. Returned average 55mpg. DURING ISSUE: Ran car approx 800 miles in limp more without any problems other than the usual lack of power. Returned average 35mpg. ACTION: Finally got round to major service including (new) timing belt, water pump, full service, glow plugs, DPF, EGR and ECU & manual regen. Injector cleaner/fuel additive may have been added by the garage but not too sure. (BTW - the initial problem stemmed from failing glow plugs that got masked by the DPF codes. The DPF was absolutely fine but because the glow plugs weren't picked up in the codes the DPF got clogged and then ironically failed too). RESULT: after the works the car drives like new car with max power. However the fuel consumption/mpg is still averaging the 35 mpg mark. THE QUESTION: WHY??? Any help, advice or guidance would help me stop me the scratching of my head especially having forked out £800 on parts and labour :/ Q
  6. Came home from work just about to get changed to go out to eddie rockets rob your pockets with the other half but upon further investigation of the letterbox i had noticed that the stainless steel blank + gasket for blanking the egr had come in the post...so me being me (Any excuse to work on the car) I pulled out the tool box and fitted it. I'm no mechanic (just an electrician by trade) so I didn't really know what I was doing, i just about know a few odd things about cars so I kinda winged this instal because I couldn't find a tutorial to do this on my car.( probably is a few but wasn't arsed looking any longer) Now it makes it easier if you take off the scuttle panel but I think you have to take your bleeden wiper arms off and all and I hadn't got time for that as the missus was waiting. First thing I did was locate the egr valve, it's located behind the fuel filter. I took the 3x 8mm bolts off the black bracket that holds the filter in place. Then i removed the filter assembly and shoved it to the back of the engine bay ( fully intact) Second thing I did was take the bracket that the filter sits in to that bolts on to the side of the engine off so I could have the room to slide the blank and gasket in to place. There is another 3x 8mm bolts holding in place And last but not least I undone the two bolts on the valve just enough ( about 5mm) to get the gasket and the blank in to place. These are also 8mm Then put back together. Gonna try add all the pictures I have to this post. You will know what I'm talking about when you see the pictures. This is not a massively detailed tutorial as I ain't got time for that but it's enough so that you'll have half of an idea of what to do. The picture with the red circle is where you slide your blank plate in. Total cost =10.50 time= 30 mins.( not including scrubbing the hands haha)
  7. Hello, would anyone per chance happen to have a wiring/pin out dagram for a bosch pcm/ecu 7m51-12a650-ua Many thanks in advance for any assistance ( :
  8. Hello Yesterday I went to the shop and had the cat go into limp mode (engine system fault) manage to clear it and fine on way to work this morning. After leaving work tonight I noticed a whistle sound from the engine bay, I popped the bonnet and noticed it was blowing from the clamp that connects the dpf and turbo, I thought I could make it home but car was soo underpowered like limp mode but even less power (10MPH) so I pulled over took the dpf off and refitted using gum gum to seal the gap which worked fine but when I tried to pull away the same thing happened 10mph 2800 - 3000 RPM at this point there's nowhere to pull over and noticed thick black smoke out the back, about a minute later the engine makes a hissing noise I pulled over on the grass turned the engine off opened the bonnet and the turbo was smoking/steaming and one off the dpf pressure sensor was blown off I tried to reconnect it but blew off as soon as I started the engine. I have towed it to my garage. Am I right in thinking it's a turbo failure or do I have something more serious? Thanks in advance
  9. Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCI engine 2016 that will not run properly until it has fully warmed up to 80° C. The engine starts OK so that would indicate it is not the glow plugs, if I try and take the engine RPM to say 2500 and hold it in that position when the car is stationary, after a few seconds the engine splutters. Sometimes the engine speed increases momentarily then dies altogether and comes back again then dies comes back, sometimes it just cuts out altogether, it is impossible to drive as the car has no power. It will run OK ticking over. Once the engine has warmed up, everything seems fine and the car drives normally. At the moment before any journey I have to warm the engine up for 10 minutes so I can drive, is not just annoying for me and the neighbours. Things I’ve tried so far- 1) Coupled up to an OBDII Reader and no fault codes are showing, when I looked at a graph of the fuel rail pressure when the engine blips and judders there is a momentary spike in the fuel pressure reading and it seems to rise and then fall rapidly. 2) Replaced the FUEL PUMP REGULATOR METERING VALVE – no difference 3) Replaced the fuel filter – no difference 4) Thought it could be the EGR valve sticking, so I banked it off, - this has not fixed the problem but the card does seem to have more power when it is warmed up. 5) Fitted A few all nine primer bulb in an effort to ensure no bubbles were in the fuel line – this is still not fixed the problem. Has anyone any ideas what part of the car could be causing this temperature related behaviour. Could it be the fuel rail sensor that is faulty. Thanks for any help
  10. Hi, I have a 2009 Ford fiesta 1.6 diesel Tdci and have a a starting problem for a while now. The issue is that when the car is cool it will start 100% of the time every time even if i go out to it very early in the morning when it is super cold. However once i have driven the car and parked it and left it for anywhere between 10 minutes to an hour the car won't start or might take 6 attempts of turning the key even having to press the gabs pedal down in order for it to start. Taken it to an auto electrician and no fault with wiring, now taken to ford and told ecu not working and going to cost 1600 quid??? i find that hard to believe as the car always starts cold!!! Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks
  11. focuscharlotte

    engine system fault

    hi, my 2007 ford focus 1.6 tdci has show up saying engine system fault and there is no power (i presume this is limp mode). i called the AA out who told me that it was the camshaft position sensor (which i then replaced and there was no change). i have plugged in a standard code reader which brought up no codes. the warning can not be removed by restarting the engine and the AA guy advised me not to drive it. anyone have any ideas?
  12. synaesthesia

    1.6 TDCI Turbo possible issue

    Trying to investigate a possible problem. No performance related issues at all, yet a while ago come across a tiny amount of oil gathering around a cylinder type arrangement underneath the turbo, on the little ledge circled below. There doesn't appear to be any oil anywhere else and no loss of oil from engine. I can't seem to recreate it with short runs or sitting still and giving it some welly. There's a general oil vapour collecting on the top of a couple of hoses but nothing I wouldn't expect from a diesel. There's no lateral play in the turbo vanes. I thought I had this nailed as a slightly lose hose from the airbox as I've been struggling to find a jubilee clip strong enough to hold this in place, however having found a damn good one I imagine it's not that being the cause. Anything I should be looking for?
  13. Hello, Today I found a oil leak on our 2009 Ford Focus with 1.6tdci engine. There's quite a bit of oil comming from turbo pipe to intercooler. Does it mean I need to change the turbo or there's something else wrong? Keep it safe!
  14. Please bear with me on this one. Until this week I haven't heard of a DPF. My last car was a 2010 1.4tdci Fiesta Edge, fitted with a DPF. My journeys mainly consist of trundling around town with the odd motorway run. And I had the Fiesta for 2 years and 8 months, and the only problem I ever had with that car was the rubber seals around the fuel injectors. There was not any other single fault. 2 months ago, I bought a 2009 1.6tdci Focus econetic. Reasons being i can't afford to run a petrol car with the cost of fuel and tax. And early this week, whilst doing around 60mph the engine lost a lot of power, and on the dash all that was displayed was "Engine Malfunction". I had no prior warning about this. So took it to my local mechanic, and he explained the issue, and cleaned it and now all is well. So I've done some reading about DPF's, and 9/10 people are saying to stay away unless you're on the motorway often, which makes sense considering how a DPF burns off the soot. But I'm a little confused/worried. My previous fiesta had 50,000 on the clock when I bought it, and I changed it at 60,000, and I never had a problem with the DPF. And this focus has 86,000 on the clock. So, what I would like to know, is, 1) Did I get lucky with the fiesta? 2) How long can a DPF go without cleaning just driving around town? 3) Will me taking it onto the motorway for 20 mins clear the filter? 4) If so, how often would I need to do a motorway run? Also, I have read that to begin burning off the soot in the DPF, the engine revs need to be around 2,500rpm. Which is a slight issue, as the other night on the motorway for about 3 miles, at 70mph in 5th, the engine revs only hit 2,000rpm. So, only hitting 2,000rpm even on a motorway, does that indicate that I have an "active regeneration", as opposed to a "passive regeneration'? I'm aware fundamentally, I've made an error in buying this car, I only buy diesel to keep the cost down, with tax and fuel. I'm just wondering, will everything be ok, if I take it for a high speed run say every 2 weeks? After discussing this with my father, he is under the impression that, I didn't have a problem with the fiesta, so it's likely that you will generally be problem free with the focus. After paying £200 for the DPF clean, I'd like to help the engine/filter as much as I can, I also have to consider, that I have no idea how the car was treated by the previous owner. Any help/advice is appreciated.
  15. charlierwalker

    Focus Mk3.0 1.6Tdci Start/stop?

    Hi Guys Just recently got my car back from the garage after a clutch replacement. My Start/Stop is now not working as it did when it went in. I think they disconnected the battery as all my trip computers have reset. Any idea's on what I need to do to get this going again? Also, windows now don't go all the way down automatically with one touch of the switch. I think this will be an easy fix as it was on my vauxhall's but want to clarify the procedure for both of these. Cheers Charles
  16. Hello, I'm after some advice... Last Sunday I was driving along and when I changed gear my clutch pedal suddenly clicked and its not been the same since... It was quite loud at first but then gradually got quieter. It was something I could feel as well as hear. Now it's not really audible but the feeling of the pedal is horrible. It's got the clicky jolt when I depress the clutch and its not as firm as it was before. I managed to get my head down there and look to see what was happening and there is a rod that comes from the master cylinder? that goes onto the back of the pedal assembly which is slipping every time I depress the pedal. Should there be some kind of clip that holds this rod in place on the back of the pedal or has something bent that would keep the rod in the right place. Any assistance is muchly appreciated! :) Thanks
  17. Hello - Could I have some help/advice please? I have a 09 Ford Focus 1.6TDCi which I bought 4 months ago with 66K on the clock, I was driving along the motorway (hour into my journey) and noticed when i went to overtake from 70mph i had no power like normal, felt like i had no turbo and it took ages to get to 80mph. The engine also sounded very loud as it revved up to 3,000rpm. No warning lights, no smoke. This continued until i got off the motorway, turned the ignition off and on immediately and it was fine, all power and back to normal. This lack of power was at low speeds and high speeds in all gears. Took it to a mechanic who replaced the EGR Valve as it was stuck shut. Drove it again for the first time and this power loss happened 10 minutes into my journey, again no warning signals or smoke just no power from the turbo. Again turned it off then on and it was fine. Spent 250 replacing the value so was pretty annoyed that it had been made worse!!! Any thoughts on what it could be? Cheers for any help.
  18. Hey Guys and Gals, Stopped the car other day then restarted the engine a few minutes later, and got the "Engine Malfunction" message, no other lights, apart from the red "i" light, and the car was in limp mode; limiting to 3,000 RPM and taking an age to get there. This intermittently reappears, sometimes more often than others. The only sure way to get rid of it is to start moving, then restart the engine. This has not failed me yet, and the car drives perfect once it's running without the message. Message hasn't yet come on while driving. Plugged a code reader in today, and got: P0380 - Glow Plug/Heater Circuit A Cleared it, and it came back straight away. The car starts absolutely fine, and has done all winter (so it's not like something's been on the way out), although saying that it's parked indoors overnight so never gets that cold, and I realise it's warm now! What's the best place to start looking at with this? I realise the plugs are a nightmare to get to on these engines (stupid French thing!), so was wondering if there's any mileage in checking fuses/relays? I did find a 10A fuse listed as "Glow plug control module" or similar, and the car behaves the same with that in or out. It also hasn't blown, as I tested it in the horn fuse location! I've been googling all day but haven't come up with anything concrete in terms of what to do next. My local Ford's (OMC in Rochdale) seem disinterested as soon as I mention I've read the codes myself, so may be looking for another good garage in the Manchester/Rochdale area that don't want £100 off me just to tell me the same thing as I already know. Car has done just over 45,000 miles, and it's a 2008 mk 2.5. Any suggestions would be welcome! Jon
  19. Papa Lazarou

    Egr Sensor (S)

    Hello all, any help will be much appreciated. I'm wondering what sensor (s) are fitted to my car as we seem to have changed everything else without removing the stutter / loss of power.. Mine is an '09 registration 1.6 TDCi 109HP with an electrically operated egr valve ( 3 wires in one plug ) but I can't see any vacuum pipes connected to the valve. Does anyone know what sensors (and where they are located) send signals to the ECU and or EGR valve to control the valve's opening and closing? On earlier models with a vacuum operated EGR there was a MAP sensor with two vac pipes and a three pin plug fitted on the bulk head from what I can establish. According to what I've seen on YouTube the sensors appearance matches one on my car fixed to the battery covers which is connected to the DPF body, have taken a chance and disconnected that to see what new fault codes are created if any.There are demos there too showing how to test the sensor which is reputed to have been of pretty low quality on earlier cars. There was a new code but that rules this particular sensor out to my mind. The codes relating to the EGR are that it is 'open circuit' on high from memory but I can confirm the code number and wording later. Twice in the last couple of days my Engine Management Light has come on but not entered the car in to limp mode, the code created says that the EGR is closed and not opening. This EGR has only been on for a few thousand miles, it isn't an OEM part but the fault hasn't changed in terms of of the underlying stutter so it seems unlikely the valve itself is at fault and probably never was? Anyone familiar with the sensors please?
  20. InKontrol

    Mk2.5 Diesel Stutter

    Evening all, I appear to have a bit of a strange problem with the diesel engine at the moment, it's not a massive issue but it odd nonetheless. When the outside air temperature is 5 degrees or less the engine sort of feels like it's misfiring in one or two cylinders. I have an example of when it happens: Start the car up, engine is idling fine no misfiring or surging Set off at up to max speed of 20mph to the point where I get to the end of the road (approx 450 yards) Trying to maintain the speed is difficult at around 1800rpm, because the engine and car surge back and forth as if the engine is misfiring Engine is fine by the time I have pulled out of the junction to join the main road I have noticed that taking it up to 2500rpm in 2nd after startup seems to clear the throat so to speak, and the engine stops surging, I have also noticed that it doesn't happen if I was to leave the engine idling for a minute or two. Could it just be that the temperature is so low and diesel engines are rough as hell when cold?
  21. Rybla

    What Would You Do?

    Hi I am new to the forum today, but have driven Ford Fiestas for around twenty years now. I've tried a few other makes through the years but have always returned to the Fiesta. I currently have a 2011 Edge in the 1.4 Tdci engine, great mpg at around 60 for me. Miss the higher spec of the zetec and zetec blue that I had before. I saw a 2010 titanium 1.6 Tdci in black at a local garage for £9295 and it's only done 20,000 miles. Spec looks great and car seems in good condition. Then I thought it might be better just going for a brand new titanium in the ecoboost, on options. If I go for the used I would finance using ordinary hp? Am going to test drive an ecoboost this week. What would you do??? Thanks! Roddy
  22. Hi Guys Finally made the effort to become a member after looking throught the posts for years. Had fiesta's from a mk1 which was my first car and used a ford in most of my driving life.. Been a driving instructor in Oxfordshire for nearly 15 years with a Fiesta being my most popular choice. The car i'm replacing is a mk6 zetec blue 1.4tdci that has done so well in the 5 years i've had it with now 135k in mileage. Today i took delivery of my new fiesta zetec 1.6tdci ECOnetic. Only driven it home and it was a real joy, handles lovely round the corners and the smooth ride has something to do with the 14" rims that look wierd. Only thing is the interior looks cheap full of plastic something i will just have to get used to. Look forward to adding input when required. James