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Found 153 results

  1. oldrocker72

    Bleeding car

    Hi Everyone new member here, I have a Ford Focus 1.8TDCI or TDDI engine MK1 i say either because even though it has TDCI written all over it when ever i Google parts for it, it comes up with TDDI MK3 Mondeo so it's a bit confusing to say the least, anyway due to my own stupidity i ran out of diesel on Saturday and a friend brought a can to put in the fuel tank, we looked for the bleeder pump didn't find one checked a few things out online and found out it doesn't have one unlike my Shogun and Dexta who both have a bleeder pump, Well i tried starting the car anyway and it did fire back up and i left it running for a few minutes then turned it off to close the diesel cap and now it won't start checked out about bleeding it on a few Youtube channels and found that i need to buy a bleeder kit which i have they also said about filling the fuel pipe and filter up and a few said that the injectors also need to be loosened up to bleed through as well, is this all correct and is there anything i'm missing a friend of my mother in law said that it's the pump that's packed up and i should scrape the piece of junk as it will cost more than the cars worth, Anyway any further advice and help from this forum would be much appreciated as the car has been faultless until my dumbass didn't put more fuel in, oh and if anyone can clarify the engine in the car would be helpful as well it does have a sticker on the rocker cover that says Endura C on it but i do have a picture of this if that would help.
  2. Ok So I am new here and I have been searching the forum for an answer to this but to no avail. Apologies if this has been previously posted and answered. My Mondeo starts absolutely fine from cold and shortly after stopping. The problem I have been having is after the vehicle has been parked up for about 4 hours. I turn on the ignition, let the glow plug light go out and crank. The engine just cranks and cranks but wont start. The occasional judder like its trying to fire but doesn't. Sometimes it will eventually start. No warnings or lights on the dash indicating any problems. When this happened last week the battery almost died from cranking too much. I decided to put a new battery on the car because I suspect that it is the original battery and I had heard that a poor battery could cause it to turn over too slowly and cause problems. So now although the battery seems ok and the starting is a bit better, after this period of about 4 hours it still takes a long time cranking to get it to start. I am going to run a diagnostic test tomorrow and see if there are any fault codes but I'm not too hopeful as there are no warnings on the dash. Does anyone have any suggestions or know of what is causing the problem. Its a great car but I'm feeling that its a bit unreliable at the moment. Thanks in advance
  3. LEADfaceJAKE

    Focus mk2 automatic problem

    Hi All, I'm new to the forum as just bought my first ford. I'm have bought a focus mk2 (06 Plate) 1.6 diesel automatic and needs some TLC. The car itself runs fine when idel and when the car is already moving but when the car is moving but when a still start when you lift your foot of the break to move the car shuts off, like a manual being stalled A diagnosis has been ran and it came back with 3 errors with air temperature. See attached picture. Has anyone had the same or similar issue or even know what could cause this? Any help/advice is appreciated. Thanks all, Jake
  4. Naesin

    Brake Servo Replacement

    Hi All, I posted this in the wrong section I think, so I'm reposting here, hope thats ok... Long time lurker, first time poster and I wondered if anyone new about replacing brake servo motors? I have a 2007 Ford Focus Diesel 1.8 and I have a leak in the servo motor for the brakes. Has anyone got experience fixing this and if so, do you know: 1. How hard do you think it is to fix .i.e at home? 2. Can you do it without specialist tools? I actually have a loss of vacuum pressure when pressing the brakes and an audible hiss coming from the footwell, so I'm assuming its a new Brake Servo. I'm reading my Haynes Manual and it could be the non-return valve. Are there any common problems with this do you know? Thanks for the help! Adam
  5. Hi All, Long time lurker, first time poster and I wondered if anyone new about replacing brake servo motors? I have a 2007 Ford Focus Diesel 1.8 and I have a leak in the servo motor for the brakes. Has anyone got experience fixing this and if so, do you know: 1. How hard do you think it is to fix .i.e at home? 2. Can you do it without specialist tools? Thanks for the help! Adam
  6. Hi guys, in a bit of a predicament. Havent had this car long, but its been mapled for efficiency, not long after buying it it started coming up with an error pointing to the glow plugs, weve replaced them, codes cleared but error still appearing, wiring checked and tested. Not sure where to look next.... any ideas?
  7. Hello Everybody, I am new to here and hoping somebody could help me out. I have a Ford Focus Estate MK3 2012 Diesel, I have been having a few problems with it recently firstly it came up with Engine Malfunction service now with the information orange light and now it has gone into Limp Mode, it will not go above 3000 RPM, I have had it plugged in by my local mechanic who has said he thinks it could be the wiring from the ECU. When plugged in it is coming up with EGR Sensor fault...if anybody could shine any light on this issue, advise me or help me that would be fantastic. Many thanks and i look forward to hearing from you all soon.
  8. How’re things, new to this. I have a question regarding putting the 2.2tdci lump from my Mondeo into my mk1 focus tddi, I’m not too fussed getting it in just wondering does anyone know if the driveshafts from the Mondeo can be used on the focus hubs ? or would it be a matter of knocking the outer joints off and putting the focus ones on the Mondeo drives ? Any info appreciated, thanks
  9. hello, i currently have a 1.6 tdci, its remapped and has a k&n airfilter on and a straight pipe exhaust (still has decat) i believe its on the round about 136+ mark but dont have a solid number as never dyno'ed it, i want to upgrade my turbo to a hybrid turbo but i want to know if anyone else has advice etc on it and can point me to right parts to upgrade and prices etc please ?
  10. Hi All, First of all, I own a 2009 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI Zetec with about 119k miles on the clock. Over the weekend I had my NCT for the car. My last NCT was 2 years ago about a week before I bought the car. During the emissions test as part of the NCT, there was a big cloud of smoke and they pushed my car out of the test center. When I called down to the desk to see what was going on I was told by the mechanic that to get the emissions test, they need 2 recording at high rpm (he didn't say an exact figure). The first one worked fine and on the second 'the revs ran away' and they could not restart the car. I went out and tried to start the car and it did start, albeit very rough to get going. Driven about 50 miles since, started and drove normal since. There are 2 codes coming up on Forscan after the incident, not sure if related: PCM - P0336-22 (CKP Sensor A circuit) ABS - U2023-A0 (something to do with ESP light) I rang the mechanic and he is going to have a look at the car later this week, seems to think its burning oil and this was a diesel runaway. I did a bit of googling on diesel runaway (what it is and the warning signs). I found this forum thread: This seems to state that warning signs include: - fluctuating idle RPM - excess oil consumption - oil in the intake - excess oil pooled up in the intercooler I have never experienced the first two of these. My car used about 300ml of oil in 6.5k miles between the last oil change. From looking around this is absolutely normal. However when I changed the air filter last I did notice the intake pipe had a coating on oil on the inside. Now this was not excessive pooling but it was enough to show up on my finger if I wiped it. The other thing that strikes me is that one posts seems to think this could be perfectly normal if the oil pools up over time in the intercooler from babying the car (which I am definitely a culprit of I rarely drive above 2k RPM for any prolonged period). Anyway, to cut this short, is there anything I could check? I thought about checking to see if the intercooler was pooled with oil but other than that I don't know. I have the day off work tomorrow so I have plenty of time to investigate. I'm not a car expert and I'm good at following instructions. Worst comes to worst and the car is burning oil, is this fixable or is the car destined for an early grave? Thanks
  11. Hello, I have had my Mk6.5 Ford Fiesta Zetec Blue 1.4 TDCI since November 2017, when I bought it, it was at 111'000 miles. It was on the low side for oil and coolant so I got it serviced straight after buying it. I have done about 4500 miles since then and the oil level on the dipstick is down to about half way, there is no oil leaking from underneath the car that I can see but though to lose this amount of oil is a bit excessive. Could anyone advise on what this could be? Thanks in advance! Alex
  12. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would. TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help? Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  13. Hi I´m a new danish Ford Fiesta owner. It is my first Ford, so I exciting about what the car will bring me. The Fiesta is from 2009 and gone 230.000 km, and need a carring hand. The version is Econetic, with Climatic and heat front windshield. My last car was Audi A2 from 2001 and 530.000 km, 2 deer ended the life of the car :-(... /Stig Allan
  14. Just stumbled upon this article. On The Autocar web site Diesel-saving' technology could make it to market in two years A simple, affordable and apparently foolproof solution to the problem that has led to the current worldwide ‘demonisation’ of diesel engines — emissions of life-limiting NOx — has been discovered by a team of British automotive research specialists at Loughborough University. The system, called ACCT (ammonia creation and conversion technology), has reached such a promising stage that the creators are being besieged by car manufacturers, component suppliers and even owners of large diesel fleets that have heard about the innovation and are desperate to use it to solve what they see as motoring’s most urgent problem. Read more on this by following the link. Makes for an interesting read.
  15. Hi all. Less than a month ago I got a new ( used ) car , Ford Focus 2013, 1.6 diesel. It's my first diesel ever ( coming from Audi A4 1.8T Quattro petrol ) and was wondering if there is anything I should know while using diesel? I know it sounds weird, but even the guy who sold me the car had to explain it to me to wait for glow plugs to go off before I start my engine :) didn't knew that's a thing. Is there difference when changing gears or should I do anything else different? Different than petrol engines. I keep an eye for Liters/100km on my computer and ( motorways mainly ) I get 6.0 average... not sure if its good or bad. I did notice today in the morning that after I started my engine, when accelerating fuel consumption on computer was going up as high at 20-30 l/100km. That was on 1st, 2nd gears. Is it to do with cold engine? I also have a problem with Audio system ( stuck on Ford Audio - Welcome ) , but that another topic as I've read that it's very common with ALL fords... fighting with dealer to fix it under warranty... Any advice would be great, tips and tricks, links etc. :) Safe driving!
  16. Hi everyone, new user here with a technical question. I have a well-traveled Ford Fiesta Titanium with a 1.6 l TDCi engine, purchased new in the UK in 2010. Unfortunately significant damage to the rear end combined with the fact it's right-hand drive and I live in Martinique (a French island) means that it has very little resale value, so I'm trying to sell it for parts (leaving Martinique in May). I went to the scrapyard and the guy there said the engine was a slightly different variant from the ones installed in Fiestas sold in France, so he could only offer about 500 € for it since the engine block is essentially worthless. Having done all the research online that I possibly can, I call BS on his claim. It seems all Ford DLD engines were developed jointly between Ford and PSA and manufacturing is shared, with this particular variant being the 8-valve SOHC DV6D (according to the sticker on the timing belt cover, as seen in attached photo, and cross-referencing English and French Wikipedia). My question, then: could there be any truth to the claim that UK and French Ford Fiestas from 2010 have different versions of this particular engine, or is this guy trying to take me for a ride by talking down the value of the car? Thanks in advance for your words of wisdom!
  17. Hi, I have a Ka TDCI diesel reg in 2012, done 46,000 mikes. Ford don't make that model now and I rarely come across one. The performance and MPG are excellent and it is so far trouble free. I want to know if a drive belt needs changing on this 1.3 diesel engine as the handbook does not say. I welcome any owner with the same model to reply with their experience of this diesel version.
  18. Hi CAR: 2008 Mk2 Ford Focus 1.6tdci Zetec, 94k, FSH. ISSUE: Went into limp mode, diagnosed as DPF codes. PRIOR TO ISSUE: very good running order with full service from Ford and some reputable garages. Returned average 55mpg. DURING ISSUE: Ran car approx 800 miles in limp more without any problems other than the usual lack of power. Returned average 35mpg. ACTION: Finally got round to major service including (new) timing belt, water pump, full service, glow plugs, DPF, EGR and ECU & manual regen. Injector cleaner/fuel additive may have been added by the garage but not too sure. (BTW - the initial problem stemmed from failing glow plugs that got masked by the DPF codes. The DPF was absolutely fine but because the glow plugs weren't picked up in the codes the DPF got clogged and then ironically failed too). RESULT: after the works the car drives like new car with max power. However the fuel consumption/mpg is still averaging the 35 mpg mark. THE QUESTION: WHY??? Any help, advice or guidance would help me stop me the scratching of my head especially having forked out £800 on parts and labour :/ Q
  19. Hi guys I've been having a bit of trouble for a while now with starting. It's really intermittent, although it has become progressively more frequent. It will happily crank over and sounds as if it's about to start then fails. This can repeat quite a few times (10+ in the worst cases) until it starts. If it's taken a few goes to get it running then you will get some white smoke from the exhaust - this is the unburnt fuel, so it is definitely injecting fuel even though it won't start... As I said this has been going on for a while, maybe 6 months now. Initially it was a case that the problem may happen a couple of times a month and it would always start on the second attempt. More recently it's happening much more frequently, and regularly requires quite a few attempts before it will start. I've had in on the diagnosis machine (I'm quite lucky and have free access to one). No error codes, nothing, nada. Even had the diagnosis machine on it during starting while it was having the issue and everything is as it should be (i.e fuel pressure is good, all sensors are a go). The diagnostics also confirmed that the engine is perfectly balanced when running, no misfires or anything like that. There is not a single issue while the car is running, it's purely a starting issue. Fuel economy is as good as ever, runs perfectly and the speedo rev counter are accurate. I've gone ahead and replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors now but this hasn't helped at all and it's still happening. I'm confident it's nothing to do with the glow plugs (it started fine mostly during the winter) and the issue happens both during hot and cold. As in, the issue is so intermittent that it can occur after a two hour cruise on the motorway when you stop at a service station, or in the morning. It's seems unrelated to hot or cold ambient or engine temperatures and how long you've left it sitting does make a difference either. Wet or dry doesn't make a difference either. I'm all out of ideas and can't think what else could even begin to cause the issue. It appears to be electrical, but what else is involved in the starting process that could affect it? Any ideas / thoughts / experience of the same issue are all welcome! Just to be clear it's a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus with around 70k on the clock. Thanks Rob
  20. Hello all, Basically I loved my 2010 FORD FOCUS DIESEL HATCHBACK 1.6 TDCI STYLE 5DR [110] [DPF] MANUAL and had it up to 119500 miles. It regularly got up to 54-56 mpg when commuting 5mins on country roads, 20mins motorway driving. It was sitting at 53.6mpg when I sold her privately last night :( After a year of looking and waiting for the right car/deal I decided the time was right to upgrade and bought a private 2012 FORD FOCUS DIESEL HATCHBACK 1.6 TDCI 115 TITANIUM 5DR MANUAL (ECOnetic) version. It has 69000 miles, full service history and last weeks MOT shows 0 advisories. I am only getting 48mpg :( I am gutted about this. When asking fellow focus mk3 1.6 diesel users they are also getting 48/49mpg. I regularly use the cruise control at 70/74mph on motorway driving and think I drive efficently. The last service was 6months ago by a small garage in lancaster where i bought it. Is there a good chance the MPG on my new titanium focus will improve if I put the car through an arnold clark full service? I also miss the 2010 style's steering options of comfort, standard and speed :( I am wondering if I can do anything to improve the MPG? without doing silly stuff like driving down hills with no accelarator etc. Let me know if you need more information. Thanks very much Shaun
  21. Hi folks, I'm new here and was just wondering if anyone can help with a small issue I have with my 2007 Focus Zetec Climate TCDi. I bought the car three months ago and have generally been very pleased. When I bought it, it had done 131k miles and had always been regularly serviced by a Ford Main Dealer by its 2 former owners. The last owner had it for almost 8 years. At the time of purchase, the cambelt had just been changed. The one problem I've noticed with it is something that I put down to poor timing originally. At about 1800 revs - especially noticeable in 3rd gear for some reason - the performance is what I can best describe as lumpy. It stutters in a way that, with previous petrol engines (this is my first diesel), I'd have put down to either the timing being slightly out, or dodgy plugs. The zone is usually between 1800 and 2000 revs, after which it seems fine again. I mentioned it to a friend, who suggested it was probably dirty fuel injectors. He told me to try a bottle of injector cleaner with my next top-up and see if that worked. I did, and it seemed to be alright again for a few days. Then the problem returned, and seems to be a little worse now. I'm guessing that it's probably pointing to worn fuel injectors. Either that or the timing wasn't adjusted correctly after the cambelt was changed. Like I said - it seems fine up to about 1800, and is fine again after 2000 (I don't generally drive much above that, anyway). It seems odd that it's especially noticeable in 3rd gear, though. If I accelerate gently, it's hardly noticeable at all - but really bad if I'm punching it a bit! Any thoughts, please? Thanks for any suggestions anyone can offer.
  22. intotheblues

    So impressed.

    I was so impressed by 'Tractor Car' a Tddi estate that when I knew the MOT was near I swapped it in for 'Moon Car' a TDCi. Two years of driving these amazing cars cost me a total of a battery, a hose and about £500 quids. Tractor Car was MOT'd by the new owner about two weeks ago. Moon Car has done 270,000 miles (to the Moon and back) and drives like an old pony who knows it's way. I gave Moon Car to my son the other day and bought an old 55 reg Focus estate which also looks rather tidy. My first car was a 73 mark 3 Cortina. My first date was 150 miles away but I had to do the alternator that morning. I remember not holding his hand because I was embarrassed my hands were oily. So, years, British and American and Japanese bikes later, plus two children who both have Fords - and my Grandad who fought the war was a Ford Mech. And, I've read Brave New World! Classics, I've had a few, Moggie Minor for certain. I knew what I could do with one. It wasn't called Genevieve but I used to be able to put it back together at the side of the road. Now I've got a 55 (not the Harley I've always dreamed of) Focus estate. I'm doing good! Wish I had my M reg Mark 3 Cortina back, like all my old cars. That 1973 OHC light blue 1600 was, and is, still the newest car I've ever owned.
  23. Hi, This may seem like a silly question, but I was wondering whether it’s okay to use an induction kit designed for a 1.6 Ti-VCT Petrol Fiesta on my 1.6 TDCi Fiesta. The induction kit in question is a Pipercross Induction kit ( I have a basic mechanical knowledge, but would like the opinion of someone with a little more experience, as I’m a little paranoid about damaging the engine, and unless I know it’s safe to do, it won’t be getting fitted. Thanks in advance :)
  24. good day to everyone i am the second main owner of a 2010 smax and i found out i will be changing the clutch for the 4th time 85000 miles does anyone know how i can prevent this happening again ? PS i am not a boy racer Peter
  25. Hi guys! Just wondering if a zetec grill is the same size as a style, found one online I want to buy but not sure if it’ll fit cheers!