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Found 1,094 results

  1. Apologies in advance for the length of this post but there are a lot of issues to resolve and I’d really appreciate some advice, guidance and comments. This is my 2006 Focus Zetec Climate 2.0, Eve. I want to fit an ST body kit and get her looking fabulous once again. I got her in July 2006 with 6,000 miles on the clock, in seemingly immaculate condition. She’s now done 62,000 miles and is looking a little battered and bruised but is a great car, mechanically sound and very reliable. Here’s a tour of her various issues… The front bumper took a nasty wack and also has some scuffing on the corner: Options to fix: replace with either a new or salvaged ST bumper. The bonnet has a weird dent on the right hand ridge and four rusting stone chips: Options to fix: get it repaired by a body shop or replace with a salvaged bonnet. We had a fight with a multi-storey car park. We lost. The rear passenger side door is a mess: Options to fix: get it repaired by a body shop or replace with a salvaged door (I’d need to retain my current trim and speaker). The rear wheel arch also took some of the pain: Options to fix: get it repaired by a body shop. I reversed into a stupid hand rail in a hospital car park and created this lovely dent: Options to fix: replace with a salvaged tailgate (I think the dent is too close to the edge for a body shop to easily rectify). The rear bumper has a little scuff too: Options to fix: replace with either a new or salvaged ST bumper (I need to retain the reversing sensors). The rear pillar has some deterioration to the paintwork which has become gradually more apparent over the last few years. I guess there was a small touch-up job done here prior to me owning the car: Options to fix: get it repainted at a body shop or do nothing. The rear driver’s side door has two nasty stone chips, the one by the door handle has dented the panel. Options to fix: get it repaired by a body shop or replace with a salvaged door (I need to retain the trim and speaker). As additional issues, I’d like to replace the standard spoiler with an ST, add side skirts (which may cover up some of the damage to the wheel arch) and tidy up my wheels – I’m contemplating getting them painted black rather than replacing them. As I’ve been thinking my way through this project I think I’ve come to the conclusion that I should get the car vinyl wrapped. This would help with a number of the above issues and (as long as I had neat panels underneath) would give the car an “as new” appearance. I think my plan should be as follows: 1 - get quotes from a body shop for repair prices for the wheel arch, doors and bonnet. If I’m wrapping then paint finish isn’t important, I just need clean, dent free panels. Any recommendations of body shops in North London, Herts, Essex? 2 – source replacement parts that can’t be repaired economically in stage 1. Parts I may need: bonnet, 2 x rear doors, tailgate, ST front bumper and grille, ST rear bumper, ST spoiler, ST side skirts. If I wrap the car, it doesn’t matter so much what colour the replacement parts are… my gut feeling is that I should go for black doors and tailgate and worry less about the rest. I assume using salvaged parts would be considerably cheaper than new, can anyone give me a rough guide as to what I should expect to pay. Where are the best places to find parts? 3 – fit it all. I’m a proficient DIYer but not experienced with fiddling around with cars. I’ve got a decent tool kit and a Haynes manual, what can go wrong? From what I’ve researched so far I think I should be able to replace all of the various body parts (although I am a little nervous). 4 – get it wrapped. I’ve got a budget for all this of around £2,000. Thank you if you’ve made it this far! I really appreciate your time and any assistance you can offer. Dan
  2. Hi does anyone know how to get the silver bonnet lip back on a focus 1.6 mk2? I’ve heard there is clips that connect the lip but mine hasn’t got any on it. Is there anything I can use to seal it back on ? Thanks.
  3. Hey folks. Just had my oil and filter change plus MOT done by Arnold Clark today ( I know... It's my last "free" one with them) and they have noticed there is a recall for my car. Apparently it is not urgent but it does need doing and I am now booked in for it on the 5th Feb. Recall code is "17S09 Recall For 1.6L GTDI Cooling system" https://ford.oemdtc.com/2754/17s09-coolant-level-sensor-system-installation-2013-2015-ford The only info I can find on this online is all American. However it seems the risk is the engine can go on fire, which I find a bit weird to be classed as "not urgent". So, is this a thing for this country? Anyone had it done? I've done a search of the forum, but it came back with nothing...
  4. Hi all, it's my first time on the forums so bear with me. I recently replaced the PCM, Cluster, halo, and the transponder inside my key with a working, tested and coded kit I bought on ebay from a Ford breaker. When trying to start my car, my immobiliser rapidly flashes and my cluster displays "engine systems fault", and the light soon blinks a 1:6 code indicating a connection issue between the cluster and the PCM. The car refuses to prime or to crank over at all, and I can't read any on-board codes with an ELM327 OBDII scanner connected to my laptop using FORScan, as it fails to connect to the car. I have also tried pressing around the '2' area on the rev counter of the cluster. As the car was originally sent off to a garage to be repaired and was sat there for months, the battery is completely flat so I have to jump the car every single time I want to do something with it. I have checked the connection on the cluster and it's properly seated, while the PCM connector is on as tight as I can get it with the shearing bolt still in place (there's maybe 5-10mm gap between the base and the connector). I have checked all the fuses to check for breaks, and all of them seem to be intact. What I find strange is that despite replacing all the coded parts in my Focus with the kit from ebay, the original fob responds to the car as opposed to the new fob that came with the new parts and that is coded to the new parts. Surely the original fob shouldn't be recognised as the original parts coded to the original fob are all gone? I have no idea what else to try and I've run out of options. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please feel free to write back.
  5. Antc91

    Ecoboost cooling system.

    Hi all, I have the 1.6 ecoboost and had been looking coolent, found it had been slowly leaking from the join in the heater matrix pipes is the footwell(seems pretty common). Anyway I replaced the O rings in the pipes and when I was refilling and bleeding the system I noticed the top radiator hose was cool and the lower was very hot, is this normal? I have heat in the car, the pipes entering and leaving the heater matrix are both hot? The coolent in the tank was warming up. Am I right in just running the engine with the expansion tank cap of or is there another way to bleed the system out? Cheers
  6. Hi all, I have recently purchased some upgrade l.e.d tail light units from ford. Took 4 weeks to arrive as ford didn't have them in stock, this is very true as the manufacture date on the units is dated 8 days after my placement of order last month. Guide now available in PDF Format see link: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/62561-guide-fitting-ford-rs-led-rear-light-units-focus-mk25-pdf/ Tools Required: 1 x Philips head screwdriver 1 x socket driver 1 x Torx T25 Screw driver bit so in the big box we find two smaller box's with ford fitting instructions, These units are very light weight at only 2.4kg including packaging. Ford instructions are not very helpfull as you can see below lol So let's see what's inside the inner box's To my surprise they are supplied with bulbs, But I don't like the fried egg effect of the indicator bulbs so I'm immediately fitting some silvatec BA++ offset bulbs. Before: After: Much better :) As above images only opposite side, If purchasing these from a breakers or ebay; you can strike lucky and pick up a bargin as some sellers are not aware of the l.e.d units value. Such as this seller: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-ST-3-59-reg-3-door-O-S-rear-light-drivers-side-rear-offside-gen-ford-/221224879856? pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338207c6f0 Notice the difference in the lens; the ford l.e.d unit has straight lines etched on the lens. The standard dual filament bulb units have a diamond etched lens.
  7. I’ve been driving our Ford Focus Titanium, 12 plate, since 2014. The heating has got gradually worse, in that now I can only getting heat output when it’s on 27deg. Even then it quickly swaps between hot and cold air. I’ve asked three times at the local Ford dealer (Evans Halshaw) to take a look but every time they don’t find anything wrong - ‘computer says no’. Even the guy that picked up the car said there was something not right. Another garage suggested it could be the sensors. Anyone else had similar issues and how much would changing the senors cost?
  8. I have the premium Sony sound system with the 10 speakers in my car. I keep losing the centre and sub woofer randomly when driving and it won't return until the car is powered down for a while. The head unit has been replaced, and this still hasn't fixed it. Curiously this started happen after a software to try and fix other issues with the previous head unit. Does anyone know if there is still a separate dsp/amp in the MK3.5 or is it now contained in the head unit its self? I am going to call Ford directly and see what they have to say about the matter as my dealer is running out of things to try and things to replace!
  9. Step 1 – obtain a modified ELM327 cable First of all you will need a modified ELM327 cable so that you can begin to activate cruise in your foci. The cable must be equipped with a MS/HS CAN switch and be able to run at a baudrate of 500K. There are a lot on these cables on eBay that claim to run at 500k but don’t (I found out the hard way), I would recommend buying it from a site called James Simpson (link below) as he used quality cables and can guarantee the 500k baudrate. Why is the speed important you may ask? Well, you will need to communicate with the PCM to activate cruise which required a connection speed of 500k, any less and you won’t be able to do it. confirmed 500k modified elm 327 cable Step 2 – obtain ELMconfig software, version 2.10 and 2.17b (links provided) Once you have the two versions downloaded, extract them in separate folders and have them handy so you can access them easily.(two new folders on the desktop is best!) elmconfig 2.10 and 2.17 download Step 3 – installing Cable drivers Before using the cable to connect to your car make sure that you have the required drivers so you don’t run into any unexpected problems. To do this plug the adapter into your laptop ONLY, windows should find the device and install it. Once it’s installed you can start connecting it to your car. Step 4 – setup and connecting to your Foci MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A CHARGED BATTERY!! I would recommend a fully charged battery that can hold its charge while in use for at least 1 Hour! Take your laptop and cable to your Foci, plug the cable into the OBD2 port and your laptop. Now launch ELMconfig 2.17b. Make sure your settings match these shown below: Language: english Driver: FTDI D2xx Device: FT232R.... Baudrate: 500,000 (un-select auto Connection: Focus II / C-MaxI / Kuga I Now the programing begins! Step 1 – Switch in MS-CAN position (left) GEM – Configuration – Page 3 Click “Read from GEM” If “Cruise Control Configuration” it ticked then move to the next step, if not then tick it Click “Write to GEM” Wait for program to write and reboot the GEM Step 2 – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) HEC – Configuration – Page 1 If “Cruise Control Configuration” it ticked then move to the next step, if not then tick it Click “Write to HEC” Wait for program to write and reboot the HEC Step 3a – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Configuration Click “Read from PCM” Make sure “Integrated Speed Control” is ticked Click “Save to file” – save it to a clutter free, easily accessible folder (I recommend desktop) Step 3b – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Procedures – Page 2 DO NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS! Click “Read firmware from PCM to BIN-file” – this takes anything *this bit I struggle to remember but don’t worry it wont ruin your car! Once you click read you might get an option to save the bin file (this might be before or after the reading). If after reading it does not prompt you to save anything then click “Save firmware to BIN-file”, chose the same location where you saved the PCM configuration file. Now close ELMconfig 2.17 and open 2.10 Make sure the settings are the same as used in 2.17 (note the device won’t show its name instead it will just display its com port but this is auto detected) and click open port. Step 3c - Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Information Click “Read” and wait for it to read all the fields. Step 3d - Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Procedures – Page 2 Click “Load VID-block from file” Here you want to select the PCM configuration file you saved (the one where you ticked integrated speed control) Click “Load firmware from file” Now select the file you saved from reading the PCM to bin operation (the one that took a long time in comparison) Click “Write current firmware in PCM” This will reprogram the PCM, it will take anything from 1 – 10 minutes. You may get an engine malfunction warning appear while reprogramming, do not worry this is normal and happened to me, it because the PCM module is not able to communicate while its being reprogrammed so it shows as an error. DO NOT UNPLUG or STOP to process or you will mess up your PCM. Once its done it will reboot and inform you its complete, now simply close elmconfig and remove the cable, start your engine and take your foci out for a drive and try cruise – IT will work !!!
  10. Does anyone have good knowledge of starter motors? Are they different with a start / stop system? Almost certain that mine is goosed and looking for a replacement.
  11. Morning all I am the current, and proud owner of a 2007 Ford Focus Zetec Climate 3-door hatchback 1.6 petrol. It has 93 on the clock and I've wanted a Zetec S for a long time. After reading that the Zetec S models are only cosmetic upgrades and without performance upgrades, I looked into an ST instead. First, a 2007 to basically upgrade the car I have now to it's top end sport variant (07 or 57 plate, would have preferred 57 but wouldn't have been a major - but did read that these models that were registered a bit later had a few less issues). I scrapped the idea and thought I'd go for something newer. I like the newer shape Zetec S also - 2012 to 2015. The 2014 is stunning and looks amazing in that, is it Midnight Blue paint job. I have come across a 2012 Zetec S 1.0. 85 on the clock but been assured of the full Ford Service History that comes with it. I always research a car's MOT History if I am interested in it and this hasn't failed any. I have done extensive searches on Ford's 1.0 Ecoboost Engine to check reviews and reliability. I don't tend to drive like an idiot and really look after my cars. But, as a realist, I also know that can't always prevent problems. I am wondering if anybody has any horror stories - or - glory, feel good stories about this particular car. Any reasons I should steer clear or follow my stupid, car enthusiast (Focuses really 😉), stubborn heart and go for it. Thank you. Focused87
  12. So... as promised New Car, New Thread! As with the last one, this isn't a project thread, as I'm not planning on doing too much to it! But I do have some small things planned for the car, so will use this to keep everyone updated! The things include: K&N 57s kit (luckily I can use the one off the ZS!) Remap (Bluefin or otherwise, maybe a custom one if I’m feeling particularly frivolous with cash) some colour coding, not sure what colour or what exactly yet! Maxton Or TripleRComposites front splitter Maxton Rear RS Style Diffuser Carbon Gel Badges all round De-Tango front and rear end (Chrome Bulbs already bought!) Hydraulic Bonnet Struts and a little surprise mod... that will be secret for now! That’s it for now, the car is staying with me for a while! So there’s plenty of time for all this to happen. So to add to the history, carrying on from before... First Ford I owned, was a 1.4CVH Fiesta Freestyle... First Car, did me well for 3 years! My Second was the Mk1.5 Focus Edge 1.8TDCi 115.. I owned her for 8 years in total! Had ST170 Cosmetics (Lower Grille with TDCi Badge on, Headlights, Foglights), colour coded front grille surround, Twin Reverse Light Conversion, De Badged, Mondeo ST Rear Badge. Dragon CRDII Tuning Box, see graphs above, gained about 10bhp and 40lbft! I knw not as good as a map, but we all make rookie mistakes when young lol! K&N Panel Filter. I had some ST170 alloys too, that i bought about a month before things went wrong! Loved this car, still do! I hope whoever bought it at the auction does her proud, and makes a nice little project from her! The next car, which was bought as a replacement when the 1.8 blew up on the side of the A1 was my Focus Mk2.5 1.6TDCi 110 Zetec S, She has a K&N 57s filter, colour coded front bonnet lip, carbon badges all round, custom Zetec S door sills, twin reverse light conversion, S badges all round, footwell lighting, among some other bits. I never got round to remapping this one, or adding cruise control! Sadly she’s become uneconomical to repair after the MOT, and with some other bits that needed doing, an electrical fault that’s impossible to find! It causes the headlights to flash on their own, the temp gauge to swing around like a kid in a playground, and numerous weird things with my dashcam and the traction control being almost super sensitive! Add everything together that needs doing, and it was time for it to go! So... the moment you’ve all been waiting for, onto the new one... My Car Number 4, which is my Ford Number 4, and... Focus number 3! Members of FOC, please meet... TDCiST’s Focus mk3.5 TDCi ST... Bout time I had a car that matched the username!!! I pick her up on Wednesday!
  13. Hi all, In a similar style to the MK1 Focus thread I started yesterday I am also looking for common problems on MK2 Focus models. I will also be looking to eventually put together a buyers guide for these models so any feedback you could give would be much appreciated! :) James
  14. I drove my car as normal, went to work, finished to go home and car wouldn't start (not the first time this has happened). The start power button, on first press, displays all dashboard lights, radio, wipers etc but when you push clutch into start, once glow plugs have heated up, there is just a faint click. I left it for 12 hours, returned and the car started fine and is still working fine now. I have carried out battery and alternator checks which show as being fine. Key fob battery has been changed. Has anyone else had this problem with their focus? Possibly a dodgy starter motor? Could this be a glow plug issue? I would hope that a 64 plate focus would not require new plugs. Someone has mentioned to me the anti theft system. When I tried to start it the other day, the key was not in my pocket, it was in a bag in the back of the car, wondering if this triggers something. Anyone able to shed some light on this issue?
  15. rooree

    Car won't start

    I drove my car as normal, went to work, finished to go home and car wouldn't start (not the first time this has happened). The start power button, on first press, displays all dashboard lights, radio, wipers etc but when you push clutch into start, once glow plugs have heated up, there is just a faint click. I left it for 12 hours, returned and the car started fine and is still working fine now. I have carried out battery and alternator checks which show as being fine. Key fob battery has been changed. Has anyone else had this problem with their focus? Possibly a dodgy starter motor? Could this be a glow plug issue? I would hope that a 64 plate focus would not require new plugs. Someone has mentioned to me the anti theft system. When I tried to start it the other day, the key was not in my pocket, it was in a bag in the back of the car, wondering if this triggers something. Anyone able to shed some light on this issue?
  16. This is the build log of my current build. As this is my first car my insurance is rather high (£2500 Per Year With a Black Box) so I won't be doing any heavy modifications to it. So far I have only changed the Aircon knobs as a way to tell myself to get a move on. I'm currently part way through changing out the boot bulb for a LED strip on each side so I can get some cool white light into my boot at night. I'll upload some photos as It gets dark tonight. I have some big plans for this car and it's going to do some great things including these that I created on a word document that I'll try to keep updated.
  17. Hey all, I'm looking for details on how difficult it is to retrofit a Satnav to the 2015 Ford Focus. I currently have a Sync 2 8" head unit and find conflicting information online and also from my official ford retailer! Some say it requires an entirely new loom/wiring system where as others state that it may require activation only by a retailer and others specify a new head unit - does anyone have experience with this at all? Thanks in advance
  18. hello, i currently have a 1.6 tdci, its remapped and has a k&n airfilter on and a straight pipe exhaust (still has decat) i believe its on the round about 136+ mark but dont have a solid number as never dyno'ed it, i want to upgrade my turbo to a hybrid turbo but i want to know if anyone else has advice etc on it and can point me to right parts to upgrade and prices etc please ?
  19. rhyds

    A few Xtrons questions

    Having had a quick look around the forum it seems that Xtrons head units are a popular upgrade. However I'm still not clear on a few things 1: Which is the best unit to get? I'm not interested in having a DVD player so the choice seems to be between Android 7.1 and Android 8. What are people's experiences? 2: Are there any recommended sellers? 3: I'm looking at having a DAB unit, does the Xtrons have the DAB tuner built in or is it an external dongle? Also, is it possible to plug the Xtrons DAB tuner/Dongle in to a standard Focus DAB aerial? 4: Will the GPS antenna/unit work behind the dash or does it need mounting behind the A-pillar trim?
  20. Bennyboy1985

    1.0 Ecoboost 140ps upgrades.

    Hi everyone, I'm taking delivery of a new St Line X 1.0 EcoBoost 140PS soon ( I've had the 125PS model for a couple years and fancied a little upgrade) ...and was wondering what upgrades i can do to the air Induction and headlights.. Can anyone point me in the right direction towards filters and Hose Upgrades.. I've done a bit of research and most results come up with the fiesta ecoboost model. I suppose my question is will fiesta pipes and filters fit the focus, especially as its the same engine i believe. Thanks in advance :-)
  21. JonnyScholfield

    Mk2 Focus 2.0TDCI -Issues

    Hi, I hope someone can help me.. I have a 2007 mk2 focus 2.0TDCI, it runs ok most of the time but it will often go into limp mode and the turbo cuts out (one or the other normally, but can come together). The engine light does come on often on reset after limp mode, (turning off and on again gets rid of the limp). the engine fault code reads DPF Ash Accumulation. I have changed the DPF, EGR valve, DPF pressure sensor, all coming in around £1000 so getting frustrated now. the only think I can think now is a wiring loom chafing or the hoses for the pressure sensor, but haven't checked yet. the only other thing to not is that every now and then when holding at a constant rev, like on the motorway, it can have a jumpy ride for a couple of seconds, but this clears if you give it a little more throttle. Have noticed that the turbo seems to slowly cut out as well, maybe when the car is warmed up? this doesn't clear when you reboot the car as it does with limp mode. Help!! Thanks
  22. Hi Guys, I have a Focus 2014 (mk3) 1.5L Duratorq-TDCi which has just gone out of warranty. When I turn the air conditioning on (any settings, even max a/c) I get warm air. I've used forscan to check for DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) on the HS (OBD) and MS (ford) bus with no helpful results. Running a self test (key on engine off) of the PCM (powertrain control module) on the HS bus does successfully pull in the A/C clutch and does not report any faults. When the clutch is pulled in, it is solid and can't be turned. So the clutch itself appears to be fine. Running a self test of the HVAC module on the MS bus passes. I've monitored the following PIDs ACP_V - A/C pressure sensor voltage - 0.55 volts. Shop manual says the sensor should be between 0.3-4.7 volts INCARTMP - In car temperature - 215 degC. I have seen one reference online to 215degC being a "dummy" value on some cars, so perhaps normal. AC_REQ - Air conditioning request signal - "Yes" (when engine is running and A/C button is pressed) CACRP - Corrected air conditioning refrigerant pressure - 125.0kPa (compressor not running for this reading, obviously). The shop manual says for the mechanic to check the A/C system pressure via a manifold gauge set with the engine OFF. It should be above 290kPa. It then goes on to say this should be "similar" to the ACP_PRESS PID (which I think is the CACRP from forscan). I'm going to have the system recharged tomorrow, hopefully that fixes the problem. For reference, there is an evaporator temperature sensor, which is supposed to detect and cut the A/C off if it thinks the evaporator is icing up. I believe this is located in the passenger footwell, on the side of the HVAC box, with a 3 pin black connector going into a blue socket. I don't believe this can be monitored as a PID. The resistance of this can be checked as follows: 0degC = around 100kohms, 25degC = around 30kohms, 60degC = around 8kohms. I'm yet to check this. Let me know if anyone else has any other faultfinding tips, and maybe someone else will find this useful.
  23. Hi I have a Focus MK3 on a 12 plate. It doesn't have parking sensors at present but the rear bumper is damaged and I intend to replace it. If I buy a rear bumper with sensors will the wiring loom have the socket built in? Could I 'plug n play' this solution and stop myself from damaging the car again?
  24. SamCappo

    Hello!

    Hello all, I'm picking up a 2013 Zetec S next Thursday. It's got just over 12,000 miles on the clock! I currently own a Honda Civic Type R & i've never owned a Ford before. I've bought the 115bhp 1.6 Diesel because I do over 300 miles a week and believe me, in a Type R that is completely unbearable and extremely expensive. I also like the look of the Mk3's with the Zetec S body kit, my cup of tea. Plus I've heard the modern Focus's are very much at home on dual carriageways & motorways. I've already found the forum very useful and I'm grateful for those who have helped with the few queries I have had. Any further advice/tips is genuinely greatly appreciated. Sam :-)
  25. Hey folks I own an ford focus 2010 tdci 110BHP, which about 2 weeks ago started to go into "limp home mode" i tried to diagnose the problem and found out that the turbo was leaking oil and the bearings where loose. Therefore i changed the turbo core yesterday. But it havn't fixed the problem. The car jerks like the fuel is cut sometimes while driving. i've tried and make some graphs in forscan trying to diagnose the problem, but i can't see the problem so i hope some of you can see what i can't.