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Found 125 results

  1. muncher39

    Ford Focus 2013 Sync Issue

    Hi All, I have just purchased a 2013 ford focus Zetec S, its my first ford and so far i have been happy except a small issue with what i believe to be related to the Sync feature. My DAB radio and navigation audio works well and the sound comes through the car speakers as expected, however when i sync up my Samsung Galaxy S9 or my partners IPhone 5s i am unable to get any audio through the speakers despite the display picking up everything i do e.g. calling people, selecting play when i play audio on my phone etc. The other thing i noticed is that there is no audio (Samantha i believe its called) talking back to me or beeps or clicks when i select things or when my phone pairs for example. I have tried using the master reset option but this has not resolved the issue hence why i have come here to see if anyone can provide me with some advice. I have read online that people suggest disconnecting the battery or removing the SYNC fuse but knowing absolutely nothing about cars i am a little reluctant to start poking around. e.g. if i disconnect the battery will it affect anything else or if i pull the fuse out (67 on my model - i think) will it screw my nav up. What if i pull the wrong fuse out? Any advice would be great, thank you. Paul This image is off the internet but its exactly like mine
  2. Left the Keys in the Boot / ford focus coupe cabriolet 2007 Anyone know how to gain access ?? Try to open Door Can't open Drivers side or pessenger side door Alarm going off.
  3. Hi Everyone! I'm new here and in desperate need of help. Let me explain the story and hopefully one of you have had this problem or will be able to assist me. I went away last Saturday for a week in Spain, I flew from Gatwick and left my Ford Focus 2010 Zetec, 1.6 Diesel in the long stay car park. I've had this car since March 2018 and had no problems with it what so ever. Usually I drive this car every single day without fail and it will do around 70 miles every day it's driven. Sometimes less (40-50), sometimes more (100+). So it's never been sat for this long since I've had it! I brought it on 52,000 miles and now I'm on 64,000 I think! So, after a week at Gatwick, when I returned to it, I found that I could not unlock it with the key fob only the drivers door while putting the key in the door. This only unlocked the drivers door and not the rest of the car, as due to the battery being dead the central locking didn't work. When I turned the key, there was nothing but clicking coming from under the glove box! No lights on the dashboard no nothing. I tried bump starting it, but it wouldn't come to life at all. It wasn't until I found a guy with some jump leads that we could get the car going again and I did the 100 mile drive back home which it had done previously to being left at Gatwick the previous week. The car had no problems at all on the drive home and I have used it all day today with no problems. I've looked online and can't really find anyone with the same problem! The only one I've seen is that the glove box light stays on. However, I started recording a video on my phone, put it in the glove box and the light goes off as it should when the glove box door is closed. The light also isn't hot so it can't of been on! I took it to Halfords today to see if it's just a problem with my battery. They could not test the battery as their equipment was showing something was draining the battery. However everything was off! Nothing was plugged into the cigarette lighters, interior light was off, key was in my hand. So, I could not get a reading from that. He then advised me that something is draining the battery and because it doesn't get left for a week, it's never caused me a problem. Now it has and it's bothering me as I'm going away for 2 weeks to Australia in December and don't particularly want to come back to a flat battery! My car has a sub woofer fitted which runs a wire straight from the battery to the sub but has an amp wire going to the stereo (the stereo isn't factory) so the sub switches off when the car turns off we also tested this at Halfords that it wasn't the sub by removing the fuse from the subs power cable as it has an inline fuse. I also have a dash cam that I have connected to the fuse box so that it also switches off when I turn the car off and take my key out the ignition. The Halfords technician said that since the dash cam is in a fuse and connected to the ignition it wouldn't be the problem. Other than that, the car is standard and I haven't ever spliced any wires or messed with the factory wiring or anything else in the car for that matter. Can anyone help me diagnose this? Has anyone had this problem before? Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Joshua
  4. Hi. Since I updated my iPhone from iOS11 to iOS12, the music player ( Apple Music ) stops playing music after around 5-7 minutes with Sync 2 The iPhone appears connected and the message at the bottom of the Car display says its "indexing device" If I pull the USB cable from the front port and put it back in again it starts playing where it left off. So on one iPhone I rolled back to iOS11 and that cured the problem. Replicated on another iPhone and that too fixed the issue. Now on a new iPhone, I can't roll back to iOS11, so Im stuck on iOS12 and not being able to play music reliably through the USB. Anyone else seen this or have a fix? I was running SYNCGen2_3.08.15128.EA.10_PRODUCT so I have updated it to SYNCGen2_3.10.16180.EA.0_PRODUCT but the issue is still there. I know this is likely to be an Apple issue, but you never know. GK
  5. Evening, all. Just over a week ago, I purchased a second-hand, '11 plate, 1.6L Petrol Ford Focus 1.6L Ti-VCT, from a local, highly-reputable, family-run garage. With little over 66,000 miles on the clock, a full-service was carried out, and MOT test performed (and passed, with no advisories), prior to collection of the car. There is, however, an issue, which the garage was aware of and agreed to fix as part of the purchase, with the battery light intermittently appearing on the dashboard. They replaced the battery and the alternator, but the battery light keeps resurfacing, albeit it, at seemingly random intervals. I've taken back the car again since, but the mechanics are at a complete loss as to why it's happening, having apparently run a diagnostics check on the car. Over the course of the past week, I've covered in excess of 300 miles. During that period, the battery light has come on four times, whilst driving. On two of the occasions, it appeared for all of two miles, before disappearing. On the other two occasions, it's appeared for a much longer period before eventually vanishing - approx. 20-30 miles, on both occasions. Interestingly, on one of the latter occasions, I recall the car being under "full load", with the front windscreen heater and headlights on, in heavy rain, whilst driving back down the M1 from Rotherham to Derby. At this time, we also had two phones charging from the cigarette lighter. I pulled over in a service station, switched off the engine and switched it back on again. For the first 5-10 seconds, the battery light never surfaced. Shortly after, it popped up again, and remained on, even after unplugging the two phones, turning off the front windscreen heater, and my headlights, for the duration of the journey home. Since then, I've covered another 120 or so miles, as part of my daily commute to and from work, in Leicester - again, from Derby. Yesterday, I drove under "normal load", with no headlights on, no front or rear windscreen heater on, and just one phone being charged. During both the 30-mile journey to work in the morning, and the 30-mile journey back from work in the evening, the battery light didn't come on once. I then covered another 30 miles this morning with a little more load - one phone charging and the headlights on. Again, no battery indication on the dashboard. However, during my commute home, when I had no headlights on, and just my phone charging, the battery light came on again, initially for all of 1-mile before disappearing. About 6-miles later, it came on again and remained on for the next 10-miles. I then pulled over, and switched the engine off, and back on again, and the battery light never showed again, for the remaining 10-miles or so to my home. I don't think there's a loose connection, as the battery light doesn't suddenly come on after hitting a pothole, or by going over a speed bump too quickly, for example. The garage did say that they also tightened all connections, as part of their own investigative efforts. As I have hopefully helped illustrate, it's a really intermittent, and somewhat odd issue to diagnose. I'm by no means technical when it comes to cars, but through a systematic approach of trying to progressively increase the load on the battery day-by-day, I was hoping to be able to prove that it was a load-related issue, but it doesn't seem to be the case. I'm reluctant to take it back to the garage again, as it's pretty apparent they have done everything they can, with the skills, expertise and diagnostics equipment they have available to get to the bottom of this. I've also since spoken to another independent auto electrician, who advised that unless the battery light is on at the time of running the diagnostics check, it's very difficult to shortlist possible root causes. I've now read a whole number of other forum posts, across a multitude of Focus communities, who have shared similar issues, but none, quite as specific as mine. In the cases I have read about, the battery light always remains on, after turning off the ignition, then back on again. I have witnessed this once, but equally, as mentioned in the most recent instance of the battery light coming on, turning the engine off and on again, seemed to trigger the light to disappear from the dashboard. As much as I don't want to fork out for it due to financial constraints, I am strongly considering taking the car to TC Harrison in Derby, for them to run their own diagnostics equipment on my car, and potentially fixing the fault, if indeed, identifiable. Other posts I have read, suggest their diagnostics setup is newer and more advanced than the standard setup offered by most local, independent garages. Is there any truth in this? If so, are their technicians any more likely to find the potential problem, than an independent auto electrician? I'm just concerned about spending money on a diagnostics check if, in turn, the battery light needs to be present on the dashboard, at the time of the check being run, as chances are, it won't be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Having had a gearbox that failed on me in my old Ford Grand C-Max after little over 80,000 miles, I'm desperate not to squander more money on my new car, on something that may not shed any further light on the problems I'm encountering, if that makes sense. Nevertheless, safety is paramount, as my Focus is a family car used to take my two-year-old and three-year-old out and about in, at the weekend, and on holidays in the UK. Thanks in advance for all your help, everyone. Joe
  6. whitezetecs

    Hello everyone

    Hello everyone, I'm Stu. Just joined. I had a Focus ST170 on a 53 plate, now I have a Zetec S on a 2010 plate in, yes you guessed it, white! It's a 2.0 Diesel. 🙂 Need a few bits doing to it, but it will soon be up to my standards. The previous owner had a dog so I've been vacuuming out dog hair for what seems an eternity today! Getting it checked over Saturday morning by my local garage. Fingers crossed its all good. (I've blanked out the number plate because its a private one and the pervious wonder wants it back)
  7. Does anyone have experience in rebuilding these turbos? can i whack in a new cartridge? My Nut appears to of come off and has caused a bit of a mess
  8. I have been on ford owners club for a while now but have never got around to sharing my MK2 Focus Titanium 2.0. Had the car for around a year now and am in the process of modifying it. Mods so far are: ST Front Bumper With Zunsport Lower & badgeless upper Grille Zetec S Rear Skirt St / ZS Spoiler Piper Stainless Steel Duplex Exhaust 4" Slash Cut Tips LED rear Tail Lights LED DRL Projector Headlights Recaro Leather Interior ST / RS Carbon interior Ambient LED Footwell lighting Calibre Suzuka 18" Alloys Heko Wind Deflectors Kill All Wipers De-Wiper Kit Various little bits sprayed & Vinyl Wrapped K&N Air Filter With Custom Air Box ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Side Skirts are currently in the spray shop, so will be going on this weekend. Also have a set of 35mm Apex lowering Springs which i have had for around 6 months & still haven't got round to fitting them lol! Anyway, please see below pictures & enjoy.
  9. Hi Folks! I just bought my first Ford Focus MK3 with 1.0L Ecoboost. The car is "used" and I want to make first maintenance by myself. I want to install all genuine Ford parts but after research found FoMoCo and Motorcraft filters What is OEM brand for Ford Focus FoMoCo or Motorcraft? Or this is exactly the same? Sorry for stupid question and thank you for your answers! 😉
  10. Hey I been looking at Ford Focus ST 2015+ models that have their grills sanded down so the honeycomb is all see-through. Just wanted to know if anyone on here has done it? Any pros and cons?
  11. hey guys can anyone find somewhere to get a set of 4 of these in yellow? Size 235/35 19 thanks for the help
  12. Freddyfix

    EGR valve frozen (P1412)

    Hi I have a engine light on my Ford Focus 2005, 1,6TDCi. I read the code(P1412) and it says "EGR valve frozen". I have tried dismounting and cleaning the valve, but the light comes back on after a while. I don't know what to do next, and i was wondering if changing the valve will fix the problem? Does anyone have similar experiences? Best regards Fredrik
  13. Freddyfix

    EGR valve

    Hi I have a engine light on my Ford Focus 2005, 1,6TDCi. I read the code(P1412) and it says "EGR valve frozen". I have tried dismounting and cleaning the valve, but the light comes back on after a while. I don't know what to do next, and i was wondering if changing the valve will fix the problem? Does anyone have similar experiences? Best regards Fredrik
  14. Hello all, So I have just bought a Ford Focus Powershift 1.6 2012 plate with 29k on the clock from a Ford Dealership on the 09/04/2018. I was briefly told about the Powershift transmission, I mean they didn't mention the issues with it of course but afterwards I have seen that there are wide spread issues with this transmission. I am used to driving an automatic but I cannot say I notice any difference when driving the car but I put my registration into the Ford recall website and it said the following. Outstanding Field Service Actions 14M02 - TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE I believe this is just an extended warranty on the transmission but regardless, I am pretty worried about the car now. I am unsure what to do now - Also a side note I have read that the gearbox oil and filters should be changed every 3 years or 30k miles. This car has a book full of service stamps for every year since it was bought but I have no idea if the oil/filters have been changed and if so when they were... So would my best bet be to get them done ASAP? Thanks
  15. Hi, I am looking to install a parking sensor kit but I cannot find any that are paintable (to colour code). I do not want a screen just a bleep would do me fine. Thanks for your help.
  16. Hi, I've recently bought a 2006 (55plate) 1.6l ford focus LX (petrol) and the cluster is basically fried, the car drives and works ok but the throttle is only putting out at 21% and after driving for a while it can go into a "limp-home-mode" ... Kinda scary when you go from doing 70mph on the motorway to 20mph all of a sudden. After a lot of messing we worked out it was the cluster but now we arent sure if we can just replace the cluster, if so, do you NEED it reprogrammed because of the immobilizer etc or if you can just find one with similar milage, swap the cluster and away you go or if you have to replace the whole ECU set .... Any help? Thanks
  17. Ford Focus II 2010 - ELM Config 0.2.17c Hi guys, I'm trying to activate cruise control on my car. I managed to activate it in GEM and HEC but struggling in the PCM. Getting error non-empty VID block found in the PCM module. Here is a video of what i'm doing If someone can point out what i'm doing wrong would be very appreciated.
  18. Hello. I have a Ford Focus Zetec Econetic 1.6TDCI
  19. Hi guys, I'm having a bit of an issue locating the disable switch for the passenger airbag on our 2016 Ford Focus. I believe it is a MK3. I have checked between the door and dash of both doors as well as in the glove box. I've looked around but can't find it anywhere. I have two kids and need to put one of them in the front, but can't until the airbag has been disabled. Thank you very much in advance for your help.
  20. Hi guys I've been having a bit of trouble for a while now with starting. It's really intermittent, although it has become progressively more frequent. It will happily crank over and sounds as if it's about to start then fails. This can repeat quite a few times (10+ in the worst cases) until it starts. If it's taken a few goes to get it running then you will get some white smoke from the exhaust - this is the unburnt fuel, so it is definitely injecting fuel even though it won't start... As I said this has been going on for a while, maybe 6 months now. Initially it was a case that the problem may happen a couple of times a month and it would always start on the second attempt. More recently it's happening much more frequently, and regularly requires quite a few attempts before it will start. I've had in on the diagnosis machine (I'm quite lucky and have free access to one). No error codes, nothing, nada. Even had the diagnosis machine on it during starting while it was having the issue and everything is as it should be (i.e fuel pressure is good, all sensors are a go). The diagnostics also confirmed that the engine is perfectly balanced when running, no misfires or anything like that. There is not a single issue while the car is running, it's purely a starting issue. Fuel economy is as good as ever, runs perfectly and the speedo rev counter are accurate. I've gone ahead and replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors now but this hasn't helped at all and it's still happening. I'm confident it's nothing to do with the glow plugs (it started fine mostly during the winter) and the issue happens both during hot and cold. As in, the issue is so intermittent that it can occur after a two hour cruise on the motorway when you stop at a service station, or in the morning. It's seems unrelated to hot or cold ambient or engine temperatures and how long you've left it sitting does make a difference either. Wet or dry doesn't make a difference either. I'm all out of ideas and can't think what else could even begin to cause the issue. It appears to be electrical, but what else is involved in the starting process that could affect it? Any ideas / thoughts / experience of the same issue are all welcome! Just to be clear it's a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus with around 70k on the clock. Thanks Rob
  21. Hello, I am very concerned about our 2017 Ford Focus. My fiancee got an oil change two or three weeks ago, and less than 700 miles later, the oil change alert comes on when starting and the car's engine seems to be juddering when accelerating or driving uphill. We have only had this car for six months! What could possibly be wrong? Has anyone else had this issue? Thanks, Laura.
  22. Hi folks, I'm banging my head against a brick wall on this one. The fact that both side lamps are out of commission suggests its a fault with something common to both circuits as I know the focus side lamp fuse systems are separated into left and right side. Bit of background info: Both side lamps not working - timing of fault unkown New bulbs installed - no fix Checked fuses 124 & 125 - continuity good Power cycled battery (disconnect neg pol, leave 15 mins) - no fix Any ideas as to what else it could be? I've heard iterations of a faulty switch, and to test if there is 12VDC at the light fitting. Still to try the latter Any help / ideas appreciated. I'd like to explore all avenues before spending £££s at a garage. Cheers, Alex
  23. Hi all, I was just wondering if someone could please help me out. I want to look at this car at the weekend but I am worried that it may be too good to be true as it seems very low priced for what it is! Could someone advise me if it's legit or I should be looking elsewhere. Thank you!
  24. Hi everyone, I've searched the forums but I haven't been able to find a topic that is similar to my situation. I'll start off with my car make; Ford Focus MK3, 2013 1.6tdi. ~31,000 miles. I've been having intermittent errors with the car. I've been having the message "Engine malfunction, service now" appear on my dashboard, but then clears after a few seconds. This only happens whilst I'm driving, and has never appeared upon first starting up the car. It usually appears when doing around 60-80mph. Every time this happens, the engine then has limited power; I can put the throttle right the way down but the car won't accelerate, and will stay at around 50mph - I assume this is limp home mode however there is nothing on the dash to indicate that this is so, even though the "engine malfunction" message has cleared. If I turn the ignition off and back on again the engine will be back to normal and I will have acceleration again. I think it's strange how the error message appears for a few seconds and then disappears, however the car still remains in limited power mode. I've also run the self tests however it shows no codes. The issue has been ongoing for a couple of months; it did it maybe once or twice over a period of a couple of months however a few days ago whilst I was driving in very wet and very cold conditions on the motorway it occurred around 10-15 times in the space of an hour, so I suspect the cold conditions might be a factor to this too? I think I also managed to recreate the issue but without the engine malfunction message appearing - the engine would chug quite roughly at around 3.5k revs but I still had the acceleration at lower revs, whereas when the message appears I would not have any acceleration at all. The car had a full service 2 weeks ago, which had all its filers replaced. Any suggestions or help would be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance.
  25. New forum member and first timer poster :) Got a 2009 Ford Focus with a rather old, outdated and glitchy 6000 CD player. Looking for recommendations for a sub-£200 replacement. Doesn't need satnav however ideally does need USD connection, bluetooth, CD player and hands free. Not overly tech saavy but having read a few other similar threads here and elsewhere believe i might need a double din conversion kit as well? Suggestions please oh wise ones...?