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Found 16 results

  1. Hi Guys... just a quick little 'How to' for that annoying noise you get with the titanium fiesta... Firstly you have to remove the plastic around the gear lever... Just have to pull it up to do so. Next... Remove the little bit of plastic under the radio... small flat blade screwdriver in the center and it should pop open and all you have to do is gently pull it off. Next... Remove the trim around the climate unit which is held in by a few metal clips.. Gently pull it and it should all pull away. I started at the bottom and worked my way slowly to the top. Next... Unscrew the 4 torx holding in the Climate unit and the 2 holding the clip above and disconnect the unit. Very easy,, 2 clips that you press the top down and slide the black part across (not in the pic but makes sense when its in front of you) In the hole you'll find this... the cause of the problem!! It's vibrating against the trim. The trim is somehow acting like a speaker and making the noise far worse then it is!! Cable tie it to the wires for the climate control and it should fix the problem!! Now all you gotta do is put it all back together in reverse!! Good Luck :D
  2. WARNING: Do this at your own risk. After watching some crash tests online, I’m happy with where I’ve placed my cabling but you may disagree, with regards to airbags. Plus, be careful prying the trim off. Did this today and has taken me most of the day, mainly due to the rain, however you could probably do this in a few hours. Thought I'd share to help anybody out that want's to give it a go. I have hard wired a Thinkware F800 PRO front and rear dashcam into my 2016 Ford Edge Sport (UK RHD). A little background, I have no electrical experience, just read a lot on the internet and hardwired a simple dashcam into my previous car, so can't be to hard. What You’ll Need (To do it the way I did): - Dashcam(s) - Hardwire Kit - “Micro3” & “Micro2” Fuse Taps - Crimping Tool - Grabby/Reachy Thing (I used a couple large zip ties with that thin wire stuff, see pics) - Long Nose Pliers - Socket Set - Voltage Tester (Screwdriver like thing with a bulb in) - Couple Flat Head Screwdrivers (Thick and thin) (1) Placing the Front Camera Self explanatory. Put mine just below the blue strip so the centre rain sensor cover doesn’t block the camera view much. (2) Crimping and Power Cable Routing I used the fuse box in the passenger foot well. Just push up with a screwdriver in the 2 spots to lift the tabs out. (Page 285 of the handbook has the fuse box diagram) I used (Micro3) fuse (8+9) for the Battery feed (Always live) and (Micro2) fuse 36 for the Accessory feed (Ignition live). Make sure they are the same in yours, or find 2 fuses that work for you. Use the voltage tester to check which fuses are always live and which are live only when the ignition is on. Small piece of metal in the pic below for the earth. Depending on what dash cam you use, check online for which wire goes where as, especially Thinkware, they’ve changed it round recently. NOTE: Plug both fuse taps in and tape the earth to some metal to test the wiring works before routing it all! I started on the side, this panel comes away with a bit of force straight out from the 4 clips. Be careful not to disconnect the airbag switch. Followed by the second panel which again, just pops out with a bit of force. I fed my pully/grabby thing through this gap initially, to get the plug end around the back of the fuse box. Then fed it it behind the big bunch of cables on the left of the footwell so it’s out of the way. Then fed my grabby thing through this gap to pull the plug up through. I held the cable against the back, so it will be behind the second panel I pulled off, ready to route around the windscreen. I then routed it around the bottom edge and up the side and top. There was literally not a single bit of excess wire here, so luckily it just reached. I tried to fit the fuses but the fuse taps I bought wouldn’t fit in the box because of some excess plastic getting in the way. I used a Stanley knife to shave the excess plastic off. It is important which way the Micro2 fuse taps go in (Or any standard 2 slot fuse for that matter). I’m no expert, but after a lot of research, I found that generally speaking, the live side of a fuse slot needs to go in the opposite side to which the cable sticks out from the fuse tap. To find the live side of a fuse slot I used a tiny screwdriver to slot into the fuse slot and used my voltage tester on the screwdriver. I found for the slot I used (No. 36) it was the top half of the fuse slot that was live so the fuse taps were slotted with the wire going down. The Micro3 doesnt matter as it’s the centre that is live. See the picture for which slot the original and new fuse goes in to. Finally, loosened the bolt in the back and attached the earth cable there. NOTE: When I pulled out fuse 36 to test for the live side, the manual didn’t state these were included in this fuse, but a chime went off and it reported the front camera and collision assist system had a fault. Once I replaced this fuse, they all went away and everything works as normal. Bit worrying at first! Obviously it came up on the dash as this is the ignition live fuse, so needed the ignition on to test. All good now. (3) Rear Camera Mounting and Cable Routing Initially, I plugged the rear camera cable in and just chucked it through the car and plugged the camera in. Using live view on my phone I found where I wanted it and stuck it on. Right near the top in the centre (slight gap in the heating elements was perfect place for it). To do this I just climbed in the boot and shut it. Was gona get out, realised there was no button, went to put the seats down and climb through when I realised I had the car keys in my pocket, keep them on you to open the boot back up! Unplugged the rear camera and began from the front. Starting at the top again, I tucked the cable in the roof lining occasionally using the flat edge of a screwdriver to push a little further in. I then fed it around the end of the airbag in the harder trim (check crash test videos online to make sure you’re happy with this location. I made sure to leave plenty of excess in a couple places further on) After that, I continued along the top of the door by just lifting the rubber seal and tucking the cable into the roof lining again. Once at the centre pillar, I went to tuck the cable, plus excess into the trim with a screwdriver again, and unintentionally the soft trim popped off by 2 clips at the top, made it easier to get the excess in and then just clipped back on. Around the top of the rear door just the same as the front, then into the harder trim again at the back of the car. This just tucks in very easily without removing any trim. I also put a load more excess cable in here. Once at the back, I removed the centre plastic trim with the boot open. Several clips that just pop out, near the sides, you’ll need to push slightly down and out towards you. This panel takes a bit more force than any others. I continued routing the cable from the side, under the roof trim and again guessing how much more cable I needed, put a load more excess in there. The next part was to release the rubber cable pipe on the top near the boot hinge. Theres 2 tabs either side and a large on at the opposite end. See the pic below, takes a little bit of force. Then fed the cable through the gap using my grabby thing again. Now, probably the hardest bit, I put my grabby thing through the flexi tube to pull the cable through... that was fine... getting it back through with the plug and cable is another matter. Took a bit of force but have to be so careful not to damage any of the existing wires. Last cable routing, forgot to take a picture of the exact place but the pic below will do. Put my grabby thing through the top and out near the flexi tube to pull the cable through. Plugged the rear camera in and put the plastic trim back on. It sits with a gap at the top so the cable sits there with no problem. Finished by testing it all worked... and surprisingly it did! Camera is hidden well behind the rear view mirror and both cameras are within the wiper swipe. Barely notice the rear camera in the mirror whilst driving. On another note, the camera isn’t the most amazing quality, but I got it for the parking mode with built in voltage monitor so as not to flatten the battery. Will see how it goes over the next few weeks.
  3. After advising a member on fitting footwell lights I decided a reasonably definitive guide (from my point of view) was likely to be useful. Download, print, use and enjoy Guys/Gals. Fitting footwell lights to your car.pdf
  4. Hi, I am looking to install a parking sensor kit but I cannot find any that are paintable (to colour code). I do not want a screen just a bleep would do me fine. Thanks for your help.
  5. Here is a simple guide on how to replace the diesel fuel filter on a mk3 Mondeo ST 2.2 TDCI without any starting problems! I believe the 2.0 TDCI Mondeo MK3 uses the same filter as does the 1.8 TDCI focus MK1 You will need: 8mm and 13mm sockets (optional) Ratchet (optional) Fuel filter - Bosch 0 450 906 508 my old Bosch filter has part number 1 457 434 442 and is slightly different. A large syringe. I used a 60ml syringe. Fresh diesel Rags This can be done with only a few rags and a syringe or if you wish to have extra room to work you will need an 8mm socket and a 13mm (deep preferably) socket and ratchet. In my guide I have removed the metal brace for clarity and to show how its done if you so wish to do it this way. So you will need a new fuel filter, I bought a Bosch filter as they make the original and at less than half the Ford price it's a no brainer. A Bosch filter can be had for around £20 including postage. I change my fuel filter every 12-18 months, covering approx 20k miles a year. Lets have a look at the filter: (note the arrows and port sizes) Next you will need to open the bonnet and look at the rear of the engine on the left hand side, you should see the filter hiding down there. Remove the 7 nuts/bolts holding the metal brace and remove it completely (5x 13mm head nuts and bolts, 2x 8mm bolts) And you should be left with this For the next stage it is advisable to cover the alternator with some rags as there will be some spillage and it WILL drop onto the alternator. The clips holding the fuel pipes onto the filter now need to be released, simply push the 2 locking clips using 2 fingers (no need for any tools - they are very simply to release) and push the clip forward. once its unlocked pull the clip out as far as it will come. Do this for all 3 pipes then pull the pipes off and move them slightly so they are not in the way of the filter coming out, you will have some diesel leaking out now. Now that the pipes are disconnected, pull the filter upwards, noting that the filter is housed in a metal bracket which slides onto 3 plastic clips.You might find the filter comes out without the metal housing, even better if it does. You should be left with this: (I have started removing the filter from the metal housing) Remove the old filter from the bracket and discard of it safely - mind it is full of fuel. Now have your missus stand holding the filter while you fill/prime it with diesel. Remember to fill it on the inlet port as you don't want any dirt getting to the injectors! Once the filter is full (took about 400ml IIRC) you might see the level drop down again - don't worry about this yet, its just the paper element soaking in the diesel. Once the filter is full, refit it to the metal bracket and then slide the assembly back into the car making sure it catches all 3 clips - this can be tricky. Once its back in and secure, you can top up with diesel if required and fit all 3 pipes again - noting that the smaller port goes to the front. the pipes simply slide back on and when fully home just push the clip back in to lock it. Remove your rags from the alternator and clean up any mess. Refit the metal brace then stand back and look at your shiny new filter: Now its time to start the car, and if you have followed this guide correctly it WILL start first time and continue running no problem. Leave the car idling for a minute to check for leaks, test drive after this if you so desire. Stick the tools back in the shed, wash the hands and grab a beer! :) Well done you have just changed your fuel filter - should take around 10-15 minutes. Here is a pic of the old filter part number: If you are changing the fuel filter on your car, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused and you should always fully understand the risks of whats involved before you start.
  6. Hey all. There seems to be loads of broken guides, questions with a few answers etc in regards to this, and seeing as I lurk a lot I thought it's about time I gave something back. Here's my guide to removing pre facelift clocks, and replacing them with facelifts! Basically, we're going from the green ones on the left, to the nice new facelift clocks on the right. If anybodies interested, I did this on a Focus 1.6 (100) petrol Sport, 2007 pfl. REQUIREMENTS: 2 Keys (I've read that people have done this with less than two but ForScan REFUSED to complete one of the final steps for me with one) Your vehicle MUST NOT be keyless ForScan Extended License (Click here for ForScan Download and here for extended license. Extended license is free for two months, but you need to sign up to forums) ELMConfig (Can be found here) Modified ELM327 Cable able to work on both speed CANBUS networks (Like this one here, although I've used a cheaper version and it works, but this one is 100%) AutoKeyProg account (Completely free, needed to get code to program keys. Their site is here, just be careful as you can only do a few codes a day) Facelift Clocks, but you NEED to buy ones with a lower mileage than your car. Otherwise, you may have issues, but probably just a higher mileage reading. A Torx Screwdriver (Not sure on size, but same screws as the ones behind stereo, glovebox etc) AND time, although if I did this again it'd take 15~ mins. Step 1: Go and install ELMConfig & ForScan. It's best to sort your extended license out with ForScan now so you can breeze through the whole thing. Once these are set up, we're ready to go. Get in your car and hook up the cable to the OBD port. Open up ELMconfig, click HEC on the left, and then Configuration on the top tabs. You need to save HEC Page 1 & 2 pages of settings. Also at this point note down your current mileage and keep it safe. Step 2: Now once you have your current settings and mileage, you can actually swap the clocks. Turn the ignition off, and remove them. They are quite simple to change, just pull the cover from behind the steering wheel off, and undo the two screws. You may need to ease them out from the top with a flathead screwdriver, and then do the swap. Step 3: Once the new clocks are in, go back to ELMconfig (close it and reopen), and go back to the HEC menu, then Configuration again. Write your old settings back to the new clocks. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ON PAGE 1, AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT, YOU ENABLE HEC LEVEL 2/3, AND SELECT THE CLOCK OPTION. Failure to do that can mess the clocks. Also ENSURE that obvious settings, like engine, are set correctly. A quick side note that cost me an hour: The clocks I brought were from a keyless vehicle. I got stuck at programming keys for an hour because the clocks were still configured for keyless. To correct this, and it's a good idea to check this anyway,is to go to HEC Configuration Page 2, and make sure in the HEC Level 2/3 box that the bottom option is Standard PATS (Focus Facelift Level 2/3) Step 4: These are the most important steps, as this is where you programme your keys and sync the new cluster to the powertrain! Once you've done that the clocks are fully configured. They should work with ignition on, light up, let you go through menus, but the car won't start. This is fine. We need to now go on ForScan (Extended License IS REQUIRED NOW). I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE ORIGINAL TUTORIAL HERE AS IT GOES INTO MUCH MORE DETAIL! On my Focus, it said it wasn't sure if the key was programmed and to check the counter. It did successfully do both my keys, so that was all good. Once you've programmed two keys, you can sync the new cluster to the powertrain control module. Again, read ForScan's own documentation for this: This is ForScan's guide. You need to do "Module Initialisation" to sync the cluster Step 5: You're technically now done! At this point, the car should start and be happy. You can now follow James Simpson's brilliant guide on how to enable and disable cluster functions. Mine had washer fluid sensor, which I physically don't have, so had to turn that off, and also the annoying reverse alarm. Have a play about, as there is a hell of a lot you can enable with these clocks, especially if you still have the stock head unit in the car. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU CORRECT YOUR MILEAGE AT THIS POINT. IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT APART FROM BEING MORALLY WRONG, GETTING CAUGHT SELLING THE CAR WITH MISLEADING MILEAGE IS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE, AND YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET IN TROUBLE IF YOUR MILEAGE HAS DROPPED SINCE YOUR LAST MOT. To do this, go back on ELMConfig, go to HEC, then Procedures. You can now change the mileage to your original. DO NOT MESS THIS UP AS YOU CAN ONLY GO UP! That's all guys :) Any feedback, extra info or corrections would be appreciated. I would personally HIGHLY recommend doing this as it looks a hell of a lot smarter. Also there is a facelift clock with a bigger display that can support sat nav and a better display quality, but these are really rare.
  7. Hi guys! very new to this but I'm trying to work out how to put a cold air intake on my fiesta? I have no idea where it would go (not much space under the bonnet) and also that that my air box as it stands is part of my engine cover. I have tried looking for a non air box engine cover but have come to no avail, so help would be much appreciated and if possible photos would be great! Thanks, Rhys 2005 Ford Fiesta zetec s
  8. Hey all. There seems to be loads of broken guides, questions with a few answers etc in regards to this, and seeing as I lurk a lot I thought it's about time I gave something back. Here's my guide to removing pre facelift clocks, and replacing them with facelifts! Basically, we're going from the green ones on the left, to the nice new facelift clocks on the right. If anybodies interested, I did this on a Focus 1.6 (100) petrol Sport, 2007 pfl. REQUIREMENTS: 2 Keys (I've read that people have done this with less than two but ForScan REFUSED to complete one of the final steps for me with one) Your vehicle MUST NOT be keyless ForScan Extended License (Click here for ForScan Download and here for extended license. Extended license is free for two months, but you need to sign up to forums) ELMConfig (Can be found here) Modified ELM327 Cable able to work on both speed CANBUS networks (Like this one here, although I've used a cheaper version and it works, but this one is 100%) AutoKeyProg account (Completely free, needed to get code to program keys. Their site is here, just be careful as you can only do a few codes a day) Facelift Clocks, but you NEED to buy ones with a lower mileage than your car. Otherwise, you may have issues, but probably just a higher mileage reading. A Torx Screwdriver (Not sure on size, but same screws as the ones behind stereo, glovebox etc) AND time, although if I did this again it'd take 15~ mins. Step 1: Go and install ELMConfig & ForScan. It's best to sort your extended license out with ForScan now so you can breeze through the whole thing. Once these are set up, we're ready to go. Get in your car and hook up the cable to the OBD port. Open up ELMconfig, click HEC on the left, and then Configuration on the top tabs. You need to save HEC Page 1 & 2 pages of settings. Also at this point note down your current mileage and keep it safe. Step 2: Now once you have your current settings and mileage, you can actually swap the clocks. Turn the ignition off, and remove them. They are quite simple to change, just pull the cover from behind the steering wheel off, and undo the two screws. You may need to ease them out from the top with a flathead screwdriver, and then do the swap. Step 3: Once the new clocks are in, go back to ELMconfig (close it and reopen), and go back to the HEC menu, then Configuration again. Write your old settings back to the new clocks. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ON PAGE 1, AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT, YOU ENABLE HEC LEVEL 2/3, AND SELECT THE CLOCK OPTION. Failure to do that can mess the clocks. Also ENSURE that obvious settings, like engine, are set correctly. A quick side note that cost me an hour: The clocks I brought were from a keyless vehicle. I got stuck at programming keys for an hour because the clocks were still configured for keyless. To correct this, and it's a good idea to check this anyway,is to go to HEC Configuration Page 2, and make sure in the HEC Level 2/3 box that the bottom option is Standard PATS (Focus Facelift Level 2/3) Step 4: These are the most important steps, as this is where you programme your keys and sync the new cluster to the powertrain! Once you've done that the clocks are fully configured. They should work with ignition on, light up, let you go through menus, but the car won't start. This is fine. We need to now go on ForScan (Extended License IS REQUIRED NOW). I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE ORIGINAL TUTORIAL HERE AS IT GOES INTO MUCH MORE DETAIL! On my Focus, it said it wasn't sure if the key was programmed and to check the counter. It did successfully do both my keys, so that was all good. Once you've programmed two keys, you can sync the new cluster to the powertrain control module. Again, read ForScan's own documentation for this: This is ForScan's guide. You need to do "Module Initialisation" to sync the cluster Step 5: You're technically now done! At this point, the car should start and be happy. You can now follow James Simpson's brilliant guide on how to enable and disable cluster functions. Mine had washer fluid sensor, which I physically don't have, so had to turn that off, and also the annoying reverse alarm. Have a play about, as there is a hell of a lot you can enable with these clocks, especially if you still have the stock head unit in the car. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU CORRECT YOUR MILEAGE AT THIS POINT. IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT APART FROM BEING MORALLY WRONG, GETTING CAUGHT SELLING THE CAR WITH MISLEADING MILEAGE IS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE, AND YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET IN TROUBLE IF YOUR MILEAGE HAS DROPPED SINCE YOUR LAST MOT. To do this, go back on ELMConfig, go to HEC, then Procedures. You can now change the mileage to your original. DO NOT MESS THIS UP AS YOU CAN ONLY GO UP! That's all guys :) Any feedback, extra info or corrections would be appreciated. I would personally HIGHLY recommend doing this as it looks a hell of a lot smarter. Also there is a facelift clock with a bigger display that can support sat nav and a better display quality, but these are really rare.
  9. UPDATE 19/01/2015 - I started this thread specifically for my sub enclosure. From there it grew into a general ICE thread. It's now turning into a general thread about mods/maintenance to/on my car. I also have topics on; Fiesta mk6 HID Retrofit - This topic shows how to fit Facelift head/tailights to a pre-facelift Fiesta mk6. It also explains how to install Bi-xenon projectors and HIDs without hurting the bank. I hope you enjoy reading, and subscribe to stay up to date! _______________________________________________________________________________ Few images of my custom sub box build... Just want to note now that I'm not building this box with competition specs in mind.. It's simply built to 1.) take up as little boot space as possible whilst 2.) providing more bass than the stock speakers. I'll be upgrading the rest of the audio in the car in due time! Just want to show off my amazing test of the box with a 6.5" "sub" although my box was designed for a 10" :) I'm using 12mm MDF and some strips of Ply to build my box. I'm also gluing all the joints with No Nails & Screws to make it as solid & airtight as possible. More pictures to follow once my sub, amp & carpet arrives! Fire away with any questions
  10. So I have recently bought my Ford Focus LX 1.6 2005 and what too fit a new exhaust tip that is louder (not really loud) i DO NOT want to change the whole exhaust just looking for a muffler tip that will do the job (if thats possible) only think is i have a turn down exhaust so not really sure how to fit it or what i really need? any suggestions or tips that i should. Thanks
  11. Hi, I have a mk7 fiesta zetec and I have a problem with my interior light. I was wondering if someone could give me some guidance on how to take out the light/bulbs. i have seen a few guides but they seem to be a different light/lamp. Which is why I've provided a photo below. i have tried putting a flat blade in the edge on the windscreen side but it doesn't seem to budge... Maybe I need to be a tad more aggressive with it. :P Any info on this would be great. Cheers! Tom.
  12. Mah.

    Dummies Guide.

    Hi, So I am in a need of replacing Brakes and Discs of my mk2 focus, now I could either pay a garage to do it, or attempt to do it myself. (i'd prefer to do it myself anyways) I've got the tools, but I would really like a complete dummies guide for doing this. I would need to know exactly what do and what I would need, and step by step instructions. I am quite new to all of this, but I would very much like to learn. Could you nice FOC guys help me out with this?
  13. Hi, I'm new here and new to owning a Ford Focus (I own a 52 plate, MK1). Sorry if a guide has been posted but I have searched high and low for a guide or any hints/tips and cannot find anything. So, I've just bought a stereo (Sony MEX-N4000BT) and it says on it that it is steering wheel control compatible. Now, I've got the gist of installing the stereo but how would I install the steering wheel stalk adapter? Also what adapter do I need, as in the make, model and what not. If anyone has got an up to date guide or a really guide for dummies like me lol, I will appreciate it. Thanks. Any more details, just ask. Oh, just found these two, I don't know if they are they right things to buy... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380633697794?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT & http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350440716709?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  14. Hi all, Does anyone have any guides, diagrams or videos on how to change front discs and pads on a 2010 Ford Fiesta. Many thanks
  15. My Fiesta has been making noise when i put my foot on the clutch, like a whining noise. i took it to the garage to see if they could help me and i was told i needed a new clutch cause some sort of bearing had gone. They quoted me £336!!!!!!!! so i spoke to some people and they said its not the hardest job to do and i don't mind getting stuck in! what i would like to know is can anyone write up a step by step guide on what to do cause i have no experience in this and don't want to mess it up! thanks!
  16. rpa762

    Focus Trend

    Driving a Focus Trend here in Spain and wondering if they ever did a drivers guide in English!