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Found 51 results

  1. Hi, not sure if anyone has the answer to my problem as i have looked at many posts and cant find one that matches my problem! i have a 2006 mk3 Galaxy 1.8 tdci , 6 spd 130k that recently had a failed alternator. i drove the car home just on the battery, as i was getting closer to home i noticed that most of the electrics were shutting down! i.e trip, speedo, parking sensors , seat belt warning sound, etc,. After i replaced the alternator the car started fine ( with charged battery) only ti find that red warning light on, abs light on, no trip, no speedometer, no parkind sensors, etc,. Has anyone had same problem that they resolved? Thanks for reading my post,
  2. Hi, my 2006 mk3 1.8 tdci galaxy has a red light problem ! when I start engine light goes out for about 2 minutes the comes back on! Battery eventually ran flat so I decided to replace alternator. I now have new alternator and decided to do the job on the weekend until I opened bonnet and had a look! it looks quite complicated and decided to stop and get some advice before I start taking bits of that may not be required! anyone done one before? , thanks for reading my post! penderri
  3. Hi, I have a 1.4 Fiesta 2004 Mk 6. About 2-3 moths ago the battery light came on, I took it to the local garage and was advised that it was a problem with an alternator so had that replaced. The battery light was still on when they gave the car back and I was suspicious but the mechanic showed me the alternator charging the battery etc and was satisfied that the car worked well enough, albeit with the battery light on. About a month later, after leaving the car parked for about 10 days the battery was flat, so took it upon myself to invest in a new battery. Problem solved but battery light still on. I have been driving the car a fair bit since then, couple of long distance trips, lots of night driving etc all with the battery light still on but the car seems fine. Have even left the car parked for 3 weeks and it started first time. I do however want to get the light sorted so I can tell when there actually is a problem with the alternator and/or battery and concerned that it may not pass the dreaded MOT with this warning light on. Would be grateful if anyone knows if this is a common problem with a simple solution, my searches on various sites hasn't come up with anything of much use. Your help is much appreciated.
  4. Hi all, I have a strange intermittant noise - coming from the pulley side of the engine. Seems to be related to the alternator - load does seem to trigger it sometimes. But very intermittant. Also seems to occur more when the car is warm. https://photos.app.goo.gl/C6tfQjoWF2aKj8PSA Any help greatly appreciated!
  5. Evening, all. Just over a week ago, I purchased a second-hand, '11 plate, 1.6L Petrol Ford Focus 1.6L Ti-VCT, from a local, highly-reputable, family-run garage. With little over 66,000 miles on the clock, a full-service was carried out, and MOT test performed (and passed, with no advisories), prior to collection of the car. There is, however, an issue, which the garage was aware of and agreed to fix as part of the purchase, with the battery light intermittently appearing on the dashboard. They replaced the battery and the alternator, but the battery light keeps resurfacing, albeit it, at seemingly random intervals. I've taken back the car again since, but the mechanics are at a complete loss as to why it's happening, having apparently run a diagnostics check on the car. Over the course of the past week, I've covered in excess of 300 miles. During that period, the battery light has come on four times, whilst driving. On two of the occasions, it appeared for all of two miles, before disappearing. On the other two occasions, it's appeared for a much longer period before eventually vanishing - approx. 20-30 miles, on both occasions. Interestingly, on one of the latter occasions, I recall the car being under "full load", with the front windscreen heater and headlights on, in heavy rain, whilst driving back down the M1 from Rotherham to Derby. At this time, we also had two phones charging from the cigarette lighter. I pulled over in a service station, switched off the engine and switched it back on again. For the first 5-10 seconds, the battery light never surfaced. Shortly after, it popped up again, and remained on, even after unplugging the two phones, turning off the front windscreen heater, and my headlights, for the duration of the journey home. Since then, I've covered another 120 or so miles, as part of my daily commute to and from work, in Leicester - again, from Derby. Yesterday, I drove under "normal load", with no headlights on, no front or rear windscreen heater on, and just one phone being charged. During both the 30-mile journey to work in the morning, and the 30-mile journey back from work in the evening, the battery light didn't come on once. I then covered another 30 miles this morning with a little more load - one phone charging and the headlights on. Again, no battery indication on the dashboard. However, during my commute home, when I had no headlights on, and just my phone charging, the battery light came on again, initially for all of 1-mile before disappearing. About 6-miles later, it came on again and remained on for the next 10-miles. I then pulled over, and switched the engine off, and back on again, and the battery light never showed again, for the remaining 10-miles or so to my home. I don't think there's a loose connection, as the battery light doesn't suddenly come on after hitting a pothole, or by going over a speed bump too quickly, for example. The garage did say that they also tightened all connections, as part of their own investigative efforts. As I have hopefully helped illustrate, it's a really intermittent, and somewhat odd issue to diagnose. I'm by no means technical when it comes to cars, but through a systematic approach of trying to progressively increase the load on the battery day-by-day, I was hoping to be able to prove that it was a load-related issue, but it doesn't seem to be the case. I'm reluctant to take it back to the garage again, as it's pretty apparent they have done everything they can, with the skills, expertise and diagnostics equipment they have available to get to the bottom of this. I've also since spoken to another independent auto electrician, who advised that unless the battery light is on at the time of running the diagnostics check, it's very difficult to shortlist possible root causes. I've now read a whole number of other forum posts, across a multitude of Focus communities, who have shared similar issues, but none, quite as specific as mine. In the cases I have read about, the battery light always remains on, after turning off the ignition, then back on again. I have witnessed this once, but equally, as mentioned in the most recent instance of the battery light coming on, turning the engine off and on again, seemed to trigger the light to disappear from the dashboard. As much as I don't want to fork out for it due to financial constraints, I am strongly considering taking the car to TC Harrison in Derby, for them to run their own diagnostics equipment on my car, and potentially fixing the fault, if indeed, identifiable. Other posts I have read, suggest their diagnostics setup is newer and more advanced than the standard setup offered by most local, independent garages. Is there any truth in this? If so, are their technicians any more likely to find the potential problem, than an independent auto electrician? I'm just concerned about spending money on a diagnostics check if, in turn, the battery light needs to be present on the dashboard, at the time of the check being run, as chances are, it won't be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Having had a gearbox that failed on me in my old Ford Grand C-Max after little over 80,000 miles, I'm desperate not to squander more money on my new car, on something that may not shed any further light on the problems I'm encountering, if that makes sense. Nevertheless, safety is paramount, as my Focus is a family car used to take my two-year-old and three-year-old out and about in, at the weekend, and on holidays in the UK. Thanks in advance for all your help, everyone. Joe
  6. Hello Focus Fans, After two years of problem free blatting around, the battery warning light came on during a journey and at the end of it then battery was drained low enough that it wouldn't start and had to be jump started. Drove home with no warning light :) Next day , warning light came back on at night. I tried all the wiggle testing I could for loose connections, no change in the battery warning light. I checked the three-wire-block to the top of the alternator for wear and breaks as far back into the wiring loom as I could - no breaks. There was some oil on the the connector though which i cleaned. Multimeter check at the battery showed 8.3 v - 11.30 v, so I go a new alternator and fitted it. Multimeter check showed 14.4 volts immediately and I thought I had fixed the problem. After a long days drive yesterday including a 2 hour night drive with lights on - all was good. But on a short drive today the battery warning light came back on. Checked the voltage at the battery with multimeter and its jumping from 13.4 to 14.2 volts and all volts in between. Has the Smart Charge system got a fault? Is the wiring to blame? Or something else?!? I do have a lead acid battery - not a silver calcium - but this has been fine for two years or regular use. Hair-pulled, swear-jar full, oil under the finger nails standard; tether-end reached. Any help gratefully received! Thanks 2002 diesel estate ford focus C1 engine TDc
  7. Trcek

    Alternator issues

    Don’t know if I posted this right but here goes ive been told by Halfords that my alternator is over charging but also told by a friends garage that it’s not.. help please. the cars showing on the gage anything between 14.5 and 15.. is this bad the cars a 2013 Ford Focus 1.6 tdci titanium eco any help would be very greatful
  8. I have a 2005 mk2 Focus, last week after taking my key out the ignition the window wipers started to go off with the dash fully lit asif my key was in the ignition. Since then putting the key in and turning it had no effect not even any starter motor noise, but if I put my foot on the brake it would start up fine. Upon taking the key out of the ignition the engine would continue to run until I put my foot on the break. Does anyone have any suggestions to what this could be?
  9. Hi, (excuse English mistakes as it is not my native language) I am looking for help, before I decide to probably scrap my car. I have a 2005 Ford Mondeo TDCI. Battery was dead and the auto shop did not have the exact battery, but close to it (in size and power). Dumb me did not realize that the poles were reversed from what I need and I hooked it up with the wrong polarity. The alternator started smoking quite badly before I realized what was going on (it was dark). Now car appears to be dead, even with correct battery. Fuses appear to be good, but the only light I get on the dashboard is the yellow airbag light + the little red light in the clock is blinking. No dome lights or anything will come on. 1. What could be the issues ? ECU/ Alternator ...? 2. Cost to fix? I asked a mechanic here and he basically told me to scrap it, if you count mechanics cost against cars worth. Thanks for your help - Dynamo
  10. Hi all, my 2005 Focus 1800TDCI running fine, but now and again, the lights dim, the car chugs momentarily and then all is good again, am getting metallic noises occasionally too, but being dark when I leave and get home hard to pin point where they are coming from, battery voltage is 12.8V when idle and 14.5V when running with lights full on, suspect the alternator, told by dealership it is a 105Amps unit I need, but I am confused by the array of ones listed on the auto factors sites, one of their sites lists the engine code as KKDA. The original alternator has a label saying 0000019421-51 and 175320. This doesn't come up on a search on Google. No lights come up on the dashboard like the charging or the engine management either. Regards. Paul.
  11. Hey Guys, posting on behalf of my Miss's, getting a random issue with her car where it's either a power drain or something more sinister where it just decides its doesn't want to tick over or feels like it can't. First time it happened it was freezing cold and I put it down to the miss's overdoing it trying to start the engine and draining the battery and not giving the diesel time to warm up properly, happens in my car every now and then when it's proper cold. the second time was last night after she'd driven it back from work and left it less than an hour, went to go and low and behold it's not having it. It gets about two attempts in to starting and it just seems like its struggling and then the starter motor sounds like machine gun fire. That's not the best description but I don't know how else to describe a car starting. The only thing that fixed it last time was a full battery charge, if anyones had this experience and has had it fixed or has ideas that'll be great. Cheers
  12. The alternator on my ford galaxy failed after a small fuel leak. I had the battery replaced by the rac who told me the alternator was failing so i got it replaced at halfords. Since then i still get the battery light on with maybe every other start-up. The battery shows 13.7 volts when the light is on and 14.7 initially when the light is off. Looking around on forums it sounds like a smart charge issue? Had it back to halfords twice, both times told they found some 'loose connections' but its still doing the same. Any ideas much appreciated. Can supply more info if needed.
  13. John R J

    Battery Light

    The battery light on my 2011 Fiesta 1.25 is coming on intermittently. I have checked it with a meter and the battery is new and good (calcium) plus the alternator is putting out the right voltage even when the battery light is on. I've read on the web that the wire harness from the alternator can chafe so I checked all down it (removed it from the clips) and the whole length is armoured and looks ok. Is there anything else I can check for?
  14. Evening All, wondered if anyone could give me some advice or point me in the right direction. I had a power steering leak which had leaked everywhere and into the alternator, I fixed the leak. The battery warning light came on only when there is a load on i.e. Headlights. The light would come on for about 5mins disappear for 10 mins and then come back on. i checked across battery terminals with a multimeter with engine off and it read 12.8V engine on the voltage did not change. Checked output voltage from alternator and it was about 11.5V. i thought it could be the alternator, so I bought new alternator. I also fitted new battery and belt while I as there. All was ok for around a day and then the problems began to start again. I have checked the wires from the plug as far as I can I can't see any signs of a break or corrosion. Anyone have any ideas?? car is fiesta 2007 1.4 tdci
  15. Hello everyone, I wondered if anyone could help... I have a Focus Mk2.5 Titanium 1.8 TDCi - 58 Reg. Last night, the red battery light came on on my dash when I was driving to the gym. I went to the gym, came out and the car started fine but light remained on. This morning, I started the car and the battery (red), ABS (amber) and the Slip Indicator/Stability Control Fault Indicator (red) lights were on. The stereo also made a loud humming/buzzing sound depending how loud the volume was turned up, so I turned it down and turned the car off then jumped on the bus to work! Any ideas what this might be? The battery died in November and I replaced it with a brand new one... Alternator or ECU maybe? I will also add that the cigarette lighter is always powered, I have to unplug my dash cam every time I turn the car off otherwise it will stay powered on through the cigarette lighter - not sure if this is linked. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy Friday!
  16. About a month ago, my front left dip light blew, simple fix, and after a few weeks, it blew again, and i changed it again. Today, (after a few more weeks) its blown again, same one, so i changed it. (since i bought a pack of 2 and used one from that pack) When it blew however after getting petrol, it blew, how i knew though was because all lights, (the dip on the right hand side, speedo illumination) went MUCH brighter, the wipers sped up quite a bit and the battery light came on, then after a while, about 10 or so seconds, it went back to normal and i noticed, one side of the road seemed a bit more dim, so I stopped for a bit to look, and it was the same dip bulb that had blown, so I got home and changed the bulb with the last one i had, then i had to go back into town to do a small amount of shopping, and as i left the shop, 10-20 mins after i arrived, i started the car up and it seemed ok, then i left the junction where the shop was and noticed the battery light on, wipers going fast again, and lights going brighter, so i pulled over in this small car park, where i had to look and see that it had blown again, minutes after i replaced it, and i continued to another shop, to get fish and chips, the entire journey, the battery light not going off this time, also the speedometer getting to 10mph, but then dropping to 0 suddenly, (also the fuel needle dropping to 0 the same time the speedometer needle drops) so i stopped, turned the car off and got my stuff from the fish and chip shop, started the car up and it, seemed ok (apart from the dip that blew earlier) but as i pulled off to go up a road to turn around and head back home, the battery light came on again, so i thought if i turn full beam on, put the fog light on and put all wipers on full would drain some of that charge, just to see if it would go off, it did for a while until i got up to speed, (speed limit, 30MPH) (by now i had put the full beam off and fog light off since i was in a town and there were more cars around) and it came on again, so i realised it didnt work and i put the wipers back to normal speed, and turn the fan back down, and continued back home, where the battery light was on for the entire journey. Im just wondering, as i think i know the signs but i just want to make sure, is it an alternator problem? Overcharging a bit too much? Or is it something else? Like a short circuit or something else?
  17. GTDriver

    2008 Ford Focus 2.0 TDCI

    Hi guys/gals Has anyone changed an alternator on one of these? If so, could you point me in the direction of a walkthrough? Alternatively, if you have the experience to summarise one, please do. Thanks in advance. Kind regards GTD
  18. Hi my daughter has a 2001 Ford Ka 1.3, Had 2 new batteries recently and new Alternator but after approx. a month the battery when tested is coming up as replace and car needs to be jump started off a jump pack nearly every time but battery had got so bad even the jump pack wouldn't get it started. This has happened before so new battery installed and as mentioned new alternator, I see no evidence that this year\model has the smart charge system as when registration given to motor factor they sent replacement alternator and battery and couldn't see any evidence of the 3 pin smart charge cable in engine compartment of car of the socket on either the original or replacement alternator, battery supplied was also a Lion (63) 40Ah Calcium Technology battery. I charged the battery overnight last night and have taken the following readings from the battery Battery Voltage engine not started = 12.90 V Battery Voltage engine started = 13.98 V Battery Voltage engine started and lights on = 13.90 V Battery Voltage engine started, lights on and fan blower on max = 13.74 V Battery Voltage engine started and fan blower on max = 13.86 V Battery Voltage engine started nothing else on after car running for 10 minutes = 14.08 V So these readings tell me that the alternator is sending charge to battery and voltage is dropping as expected when various power draws are made on the battery\alternator but doesn't explain why over a period of days (I know current cold spell doesn't help) the battery will die again?? Any help gratefully accepted!!
  19. Hi Gang, Bit of a pickle with my MK1 2.0 Petrol. A few weeks back my JBL GTO amp started to intermittently cut out / in, which via testing turned out to be the protection mode. Puzzled I did some more testing and it was only happening when the engine was on, engine off and it works fine. Took it to a garage as I needed a new earth cable (mine had perished) and asked them to test the alternator and battery at the same time. Their conclusion was the battery was fine, alternator works but the alternator was not charging with full load, especially idle, however even with more revs it works when stationary but driving along the amp still cuts in / out and the lights will dim if in traffic corresponding with the amp in / out. The garage suggested a 'more powerful' alternator (if it's possible?), but the thing I don't get is how come I've been running these amps for 5 years on this battery / alternator setup with no issues. So the garage is not 100% sure its the alternator, however I'm stumped what else it could be? I don't mind coughing to replace it, but then I could play the 'lets replace the part' game until I have a new car. I've checked around this forum and so far most things along this vein is to do with the smart charge, but that's not til MK3? I guess what I'm asking is if the regulars here would bet on a new alternator or if there's something else it might be? Thanks
  20. Hi, I'm trying to fit a leisure battery to my mk3 mondeo TDCI (53 reg). All the battery wires, relay and fuses are fitted the only thing i'm left to do is get the trigger for the relay. I'd like to have it only live when the engine is running, so i was thinking of getting a wire from the alternator. I've looked in Haynes and i think a wire runs through a fuse in the fusebox in the engine bay. Which brings me to my question, Have has anyone tried wiring straight off the alternator before and if so got any pictures or tips? Or can you think of a better line to run the trigger off? Cheers!
  21. DB987654

    Battery/Alternator Issue

    Hi all, I've had a look around the forums and have seen similar posts but thought it best to start a new one with my issue. About 2 weeks ago, I came to my Focus one morning and it wouldn't start. The battery had gone. Radio came on as I turned the key, but it didn't turn over. Jumped it, and it's been fine since. This morning, again came to my car to leave for work and exactly the same again. We jumped it, had a run around for a bit and came back home. Later this afternoon, it didn't start again, but after a few attempts it finally did without being jumped. Since then, it's started a few times this afternoon with no issue. We've had the battery checked this afternoon and it tests fine. Would the next step be having the alternator checked? I've been told today that alternators failing can give out a whirring noise, which come to think of it has been happening on and off for a few months but we've though nothing of it. It's a Focus zetec 2010 59 plate (2009). It'll be next week now before I can get to a garage. In the mean time, and to prepare me for costs, Is this the most likely culprit and does the whirring noise sound like it could be related? Thanks all!
  22. hi guys so when i try to turn on my car, the battery light comes up and it won't start. :/ I've bought a replacement alternator but i can't work out how to replace the old one. the two top bolts are easily accessible but i have no clue how to get to the bottom bolt or remove and replace the belt. :/ can anyone please give a guide or some useful tips? it would be much appreciated as I'm desperate to get it back on the road again XD thanks a lot, James :)
  23. Really hoping someone can help. My alternator died leaving me by side of road when battery gave up last of juice. After £500 to replace (is it just me or have I been gouged?), I have got it back find it seems to be stuck in limp mode, with a max.65-69mph and poor acceleration and seems to be smoking a lot (was not smoking noticeably at before new alternator). anyone know what is going on and how to get it sorted?
  24. jimjamyaha

    Mk2 Tivct Alternator Amp

    Hey - Have done a quick trawl of the forums but couldn't find a definite answer: Can those who have a Ti-VCT1.6 petrol MK2 Ford Focus possibly let me know what amperage your alternator is? Location would be on the alternator sticker, or for those techie a variable set in the ECU which can be read by ELMConfig. Trying to check I've had the right amperage one put in. Thanks!
  25. Hi really need some help im puzzled here. recently replaced my alternator on a 2008 c max 1.8 tdci, on buying a new belt which wherever i look states it is a 6 rib 1520 lentgh it seems way to long if i route it in the way a digram shows which ill add. it is the only diagram i can find that looks exactly the same as my pulley set up. now the question is what belt should be fitted because if it is a different lentgh for the life of me i cant find it. does anyone have any clues, the picture ive added seems to be from a 2008 focus 1.8 tdci but is the closest i can get to my c max pulley and routing diagram. any help is greatley appreciated. it is figure 1 on the pic with A/C not the right side.