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Found 22 results

  1. Hi all! ive been a bit of a ghost as of late, but finally back onto messing around with my car! I changed my headlights today (first time, which probably explains the damage I caused..) but I managed to snap the little clip on the headlight connector. I don’t have a photo at the minute, but it’s the connector that plugs into the headlight in the engine bay. Will this cause any massive issues? It seems pretty comfortable in there, but if I can get that clip replaced ideally I’d like to do that! any recommendations would be great!
  2. Hi all. 57 plate Fiesta Zetec with the durashift automatic transmission - 80,000 miles. How do I change the transmission fluid? Do I do this myself or is it a garage job (if the latter, any idea on costs?) Thanks! Jason
  3. Here is a simple guide on how to replace the diesel fuel filter on a mk3 Mondeo ST 2.2 TDCI without any starting problems! I believe the 2.0 TDCI Mondeo MK3 uses the same filter as does the 1.8 TDCI focus MK1 You will need: 8mm and 13mm sockets (optional) Ratchet (optional) Fuel filter - Bosch 0 450 906 508 my old Bosch filter has part number 1 457 434 442 and is slightly different. A large syringe. I used a 60ml syringe. Fresh diesel Rags This can be done with only a few rags and a syringe or if you wish to have extra room to work you will need an 8mm socket and a 13mm (deep preferably) socket and ratchet. In my guide I have removed the metal brace for clarity and to show how its done if you so wish to do it this way. So you will need a new fuel filter, I bought a Bosch filter as they make the original and at less than half the Ford price it's a no brainer. A Bosch filter can be had for around £20 including postage. I change my fuel filter every 12-18 months, covering approx 20k miles a year. Lets have a look at the filter: (note the arrows and port sizes) Next you will need to open the bonnet and look at the rear of the engine on the left hand side, you should see the filter hiding down there. Remove the 7 nuts/bolts holding the metal brace and remove it completely (5x 13mm head nuts and bolts, 2x 8mm bolts) And you should be left with this For the next stage it is advisable to cover the alternator with some rags as there will be some spillage and it WILL drop onto the alternator. The clips holding the fuel pipes onto the filter now need to be released, simply push the 2 locking clips using 2 fingers (no need for any tools - they are very simply to release) and push the clip forward. once its unlocked pull the clip out as far as it will come. Do this for all 3 pipes then pull the pipes off and move them slightly so they are not in the way of the filter coming out, you will have some diesel leaking out now. Now that the pipes are disconnected, pull the filter upwards, noting that the filter is housed in a metal bracket which slides onto 3 plastic clips.You might find the filter comes out without the metal housing, even better if it does. You should be left with this: (I have started removing the filter from the metal housing) Remove the old filter from the bracket and discard of it safely - mind it is full of fuel. Now have your missus stand holding the filter while you fill/prime it with diesel. Remember to fill it on the inlet port as you don't want any dirt getting to the injectors! Once the filter is full (took about 400ml IIRC) you might see the level drop down again - don't worry about this yet, its just the paper element soaking in the diesel. Once the filter is full, refit it to the metal bracket and then slide the assembly back into the car making sure it catches all 3 clips - this can be tricky. Once its back in and secure, you can top up with diesel if required and fit all 3 pipes again - noting that the smaller port goes to the front. the pipes simply slide back on and when fully home just push the clip back in to lock it. Remove your rags from the alternator and clean up any mess. Refit the metal brace then stand back and look at your shiny new filter: Now its time to start the car, and if you have followed this guide correctly it WILL start first time and continue running no problem. Leave the car idling for a minute to check for leaks, test drive after this if you so desire. Stick the tools back in the shed, wash the hands and grab a beer! :) Well done you have just changed your fuel filter - should take around 10-15 minutes. Here is a pic of the old filter part number: If you are changing the fuel filter on your car, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused and you should always fully understand the risks of whats involved before you start.
  4. Hi all, Just wondering if it's possible to change the colour of my dashboard speedo/gauge lights? (Shown in picture) ive managed to work out how to get the cluster part out, however I need to know if this is a case of a bulb change or if it's a "skin"...not sure of the proper name for it. if it is a bulb does anyone know the size of it? And if it's possible to replace with LED bulbs? thanks in advance any help I would be really great full as I cannot find for the life of me any info on this.
  5. Recently had battery issues ending up putting a new battery in. The car sat without a battery for about 24 hours. Now the fuel gauge reads a quarter which is about right but the low fuel level indicator has illuminated even though I know there is fuel in the tank. Any ideas? ford fiesta 2009 1.6 diesel
  6. MysteriousMrRyan

    Ford Focus 2012 Radio Change

    Hi All, First Post... So i have had a 2012 Focus for a little while now, and have been looking for the perfect thing to do to my MK3. This morning i found it. So that stock nasty radio in the focus, i have decided has got to go. The blue dot matrix screen needs an upgrade. So, this being the case i dont actually want to spend a lot of money if i can avoid it. What with the whole sony radio system and screen shaping up to be quite expensive brand new... I know the screen is bigger for the colour LCD, so i am aware its not as simple as just unplugging the dot matrix, and that i would need the Sony Facia to match. But do i need to swap the whole radio, or does someone know if i can simply get away with swapping the front facia plate and putting the new LCD screen in? Or am i just asking for a world of issues? The reason i ask is that i have actually found a sony facia and LCD screen, but not the radio part for a sensible price, but dont want to buy it if its not going to fit/work. Hope someone can help, Thanks, Ryan. EDIT: Im aware quite a few of these sort of posts exist, but none i could find that face the above situation.
  7. Hi all, I've had a look around and pretty sure I could give changing my exhaust system (from back box to the CAT/manifold) just wondering if there are actually any videos of someone doing it themselves? As I can't find anywhere and I've read getting the bolts that attach to the mani/cat are a bit fiddly to get out and it's a one piece system. If not I might have a look at doing a video myself as I feel like there aren't enough for mk6 DIY guides. Thanks, Rhys ✌️
  8. Greetings all. I'm going to be doing my first ever (non stealer) oil change on my 55 plate Focus 1.6 TDCI this weekend and I'm looking to undergo some additional maintenance at the same time to make sure everything is running as smoothly as possible. I'm keen to remove the Inlet Manifold to clean this out, as I would assume it has a lot of built up carbon in there after 12 years of running! (However it only has 70k on the clock!). I've looked around online and I can't seem to find a proficient guide as to how to remove it. Do I need to to take out the fuel injectors first? What pipes/tubing should be disconnected? Once removed can I just bathe it in carb cleaner and then flush it out with warm water? I'd also like to blank my EGR at the same time, I've had the plate for yonks but it would seem the windscreen tray is glued on, so I had difficulty reaching the valve, although this was a year or so ago. My understanding is the EGR is to the left at the back of the engine. If I removed the manifold would I be able to access the valve to slide the plate in? And is it worth cleaning the valve first before blanking if this is the case? I've attached a couple of images (not my engine) which may help someone point me in the right direction here. Any assistance whatsoever would be greatly appreciated! As a final question, after the manifold is removed, is there then access to the rocker cover gasket? As I may have a slight leak so would be interested in replacing this too. I have a Haynes manual on order but I would love for some pros out there to give me some tips, or even provide images of what I need to disconnect remove. I'll upload some photos of the actual engine tomorrow when I have some light. *Edit* I've received the Haynes, after reading through the removal process it seems quite straightforward. So now I'm just wondering the best way to clean it! Thanks in advance for any advice! Regards, Sam
  9. Hi all, About 3 months ago I bought my first daily / personal Ford, a 2008 Focus 1.6 Petrol, and it had 58348 miles on the clock (i've also got a Ford Puma, but that's being kitted out for rallying). It's now on roughly 61350, and am just wandering how often does this vehicle need servicing to your experiences. I want to keep on top of it, but don't want to be servicing every so often, as the manual describes when I don't need too. Just things like Oil change and filter, cambelt / timing belt change, brake fluid, etc. Some of it I can do myself, with mates pitching on the rest, like i've done with my previous cars. It had a service when bought, but does anything really need changing at 3k miles?? If not, at every how many miles should it get serviced. I tend to do a lot of miles in my cars and average 19k - 21k a year. Thanks in advance for any help, advice, tips and hints provided!
  10. Hello, I drive an '05 MK6 Fiesta Finesse, 1.2 at around 90K mileage. I recently had to drive through a large pot hole (inconsiderate driver hogging the road coming other way), and got a flat tyre (N/S/F). I had the tyre changed - both tyre and rim as it had buckled quite badly - but the car still didn't feel like it was driving quite right. As they'd fitted a cheap tyre, I decided to swap the N/S/F with the N/S/R which had a Michelin on it, matching the O/S/F. After swapping them I noticed the car was pulling to the left, I can't be sure if it was before I swapped them but I know it didn't feel right. I took it to my local garage who adjusted the tracking. They informed me the N/S/F wheel was buckled and there was slight play in the inner track rod - as I'd swapped the wheels over, that would have been the rear (N/S/R) and so I'm guessing that the pothole actually damaged both. The tracking adjustment did nothing, the car still pulled left as before. I checked and adjusted all tyre pressures and got the buckled wheel replaced as I assumed that could be causing it, but still the car pulls left, no change. I'm going to take the car back to the garage for them to have another look now all tyres should be fine, but as they couldn't see any issue before I'm not holding out much hope that they'll see anything obvious. Has anyone else had a similar problem or any advice on what could be causing it? I assumed the track rod having play wouldn't be the cause as it was probably an age issue, but could this in fact be the cause? Would the pothole have affected it? Thanks in advance for any advice. -Niall
  11. missionary

    ATF change

    Hello, I am a trained and very experienced diesel and hydraulic equipment engineer, so quite familiar with most car mechanics. I have had 2 auto box cars in the past and now bought a Fusion with 1.6 petrol with TC transmission. Although 155k miles, its a one owner car with a service book fully stamped up-to-date with all work done by the local Ford main agent. No expense has been spared, so subsequently it looks great and all seems well. It has lived out in the countryside with regular 30 mile trips to London down a motorway. To me the ATF appears to look and smell like a 'working' hydraulic oil. Its does not smell burnt at all, nor is it perfumed like a new oil. Its not discoloured but has lost a pure pink colour, though still discernably of a red/pink base. The transmission works well even on hill starts on a local road historically used for hill climbs in the past. So all appears well, but I wonder at what mileage it would have been changed - if at all - having been serviced to 'the book'. (Its not listed as a task on the printed Ford service book pages). So therefore at what mileage the next change should be. Also, does my description of the ATF fit with 'normal' usage. TIA m
  12. Hi all, I've got a mk2.5 focus with the standard 1 bulb interior light in, now I was just wondering about changing it to one with map reading lights, I've seen some on eBay and I'm not sure if it's the correct one for my car or not and just wondered if they just plug straight in or will have to rewire, if anyone knows I'd just like a bit of advice 😊 Thanks
  13. Hi All, I have recently bought a 2008 plate Titanium X 2.5T model which drives like a dream, however, my one little issue is that it's done 110,000 miles and has a full FSR history but the clutch pedal doesn't seem to have to be depressed very far to change gear. Is this normal for this type of car as I drove a TDCI C-Max before this car and therefore I have no history? Clutch doesn't slip in any gear but I'm just being mindful and would like to hear other people's views.
  14. Jordan_95

    Changing Front Grilles

    I'm trying to change the front upper and lower grill on my fiesta Zetec S 2014 ecoboost 1lt but not too sure exactly how to get the old ones off? Anyone have any idea? Thanks
  15. Hi so I have this problem that most garages seem to not actually have heard of. The clutch goes hard when not being used. If I drive around town for a while where I am constantly changing gear, i.e using the clutch, it works great. If i spend half hour or an hour on the motorway in one gear, i.e not using it, the clutch pedal goes stiff when i finally do. It's not impossible to depress but harder than it should be, as soon as I depress it a few times to change gear, it recovers. I was preparing to put a new clutch in towards the end of the year anyway as the pedal seems high but i need an opinion on the fault. Also it intermittently doesn't go into 1st gear! Only intermittently though, i have to retry and usually 2nd or 3rd time it slides into gear as it should. Same thing happens in reverse gear (which is the 1st gear but backwards i believe). It's a 2003 1.6 Zetec petrol and these are the only niggles on an otherwise fantastic car, like a Bentley compared to my old Corsa! Thanks in advance. One love
  16. Hi all, Does anyone have any guides, diagrams or videos on how to change front discs and pads on a 2010 Ford Fiesta. Many thanks
  17. Hi all, Thanks in advance, any help would be greatly appreciated. Unfortunately the other day my drive belt started to fray, it subsequently got tangled round the lower pulley and snatched the timing belt. After replacing both belts looks like it's trashed the engine as now it's very flat and total loss of power. Be warned the drive belt cost £12 and so for my questions: I've purchased a replacement engine, same year and same spec complete with all ancillaries. Mechanics part is no problem but the electrics/ ecu bit is worrying me. What parts do I need to keep original from my trashed engine ref sensors, pumps etc to avoid any kind of remapping? I just want to take the old one out, swap the bits round and bolt a new one in and have it run. Any advice would be much appreciated. Old mechanic, new cars are a bit complicated! Thanks, Jason
  18. Byron95

    Trim Needed Mk7 Fiesta

    Hey guys!, I was wondering if any one knew anywhere which i can buy complete trim sets in white. The trim im looking for is the aircon control, radio system plus the hidden compartment, two dash airvents and interior front door handles. thanks guys :)
  19. Lander2210

    Car Speakers

    Hi, I'm new to this and I have a problem with my standard speakers sounding unbelievably rubbish!! All I wanted to know was, can I change the standard speakers to upgraded ones and put a cone or padding behind it, so it doesn't sound like there going to break. I mostly want to change them because I love my music and I don't want to change my head unit so just want uprated speakers for now. Any advice on where I could get some speakers from not 6'' x 9''s as they won't fit without editing the car door (this is something I really don't want to do.) Many thanks, Alec
  20. Hi. I have a 2005/6 Focus TDCI in Silver which has the black front fog light plastic surround. I wondered if the 2006 Galaxy fog lights as shown in pic will fit in place. I HATE black plastic trim and I would like to swap out the front fogs. Can anyone confirm its possible and if so is there a guide or is it straight forward? Thanks in advance Glenn I want the above to go on the same style front below
  21. Hi everyone. About a month ago I've ordered a DuraTorq 1.6 Diesel engine Mondeo (5 doors). The dealer told me that there is currently a strike on the Genk plant, so he advised to go on with a pre-built one, which, as he said, was already built there, but had not been taken out from the plant yet. So I agreed and he has told to expect it by 23rd of Feb 2013. I've looked up the car on Ford Etis, and it has been showing the build date as 28-th of November, 2012. Yesterday, I've looked it up again, and found that the date it shows has changed to 28 Jan 2013. Any idea what does this mean? Also, I'm wondering whether anybody knows how the strike goes on: whether cars are arriving from plant or not? Thanks a lot for your responses in advance.
  22. matkinson89

    Dashboard Light Colour Change

    Hi Im looking to change my dashboard lights from green to blue and ive got a couple of questions: 1) What kind of light bulbs will I need? 2) Will it change the colour of the temp/air controls/clock (in the centre console)? 3) Has anyone done this in the past got any recommendations/ suggestions where to get the bulbs from? Thanks for the help! Matt