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Found 15 results

  1. Like a lot of people it seems, I had trouble with the radiator/cooling fan not operating on my S Max. Presumably this also applies to the Galaxy mk3 and the Mondeo. I have now fixed the problem and thought it would be helpful to share what I know as there is little information that I found when searching the internet, some of which is incorrect. I am an electronics/software engineer by trade and so for my own curiosity as much as anything I wanted to find out how the fan operates..... Attached to the cooling fan housing is a speed controller in a small metal box. Some forum posts refer to this as a relay box, which is incorrect. It is driven by a PWM signal - to those who don't know what that is, it is a continuous series of pulses that change width dependant on the speed required. There are three wires going to the fan controller, a permanent 12V feed (Red), a ground (Black) and a pink wire. The pink wire is the control (PWM) wire. There are two wires that come out of the other end of the speed controller and connect to the fan. The powertrain control module (PCM) in the wheel arch drives the PWM signal on the pink wire. So how do you tell if the fan should be on? The signal on the pink wire appears to be an open-collector drive - a bit technical but basically means that you probably won’t be able to measure a signal unless it is plugged in to the fan speed controller at the time. This is also how the PCM detects a fan fault. The speed controller has an internal pull-up resistor between the pink wire and 12V (Measures about 2700 ohms). When the fan is connected, the PCM module can see the 12V on the pink wire, so when the fan is disconnected, the 12V disappears from the pink wire and the PCM can detect a fault. If you have a voltmeter - when connected between ground and the pink wire you should see 12V (or whatever the battery voltage is) when the fan is off and a lower voltage when the fan is on. The actual voltage will depend on how fast the fan should be going and the type of voltmeter but it will probably be around 4V at full speed. I believe there are two ways to force the fan to come on. The first is to disconnect the engine temperature sensor - however I did not try this as I was not sure where it was. The second method (that I used) is to turn the aircon on full - when the aircon is on the cooling fan should come on full speed. This will only happen though when the engine is running as the aircon pump has to be engaged. If you just want to test the fan itself works, you can disconnect the 2 pin connector from the output of the fan controller and connect them to 12V and GND. I did this by also removing the 3 pin connector and using the red and black connections on their to link across to the fan connector. So what was wrong with my fan ? I had what appears to be a common problem of the pink control wire being broken/corroded in the wiring loom. The following is a description of a right hand drive, I don't know if the engine layout is different for a LHD. The PCM module is located in the passenger (near) side wheel arch. You need to remove the wheel and arch liner to get at it (Mine has the protective cover over the connectors with a shear bolt which I don't have tools to remove). You don’t have to take the wheel/liner off but I found it gave me better access to the loom. The wiring loom from the PCM goes through the arch and at about 6 inches in to the engine bay (pretty much under the bottom radiator hose) part of the loom goes up to the top. This bit of the loom is cable tied to the inner wing. This contains the pink control wire which then goes across to the fan controller. My pink wire was broken/corroded at the point the loom separates in the bottom of the bay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that the cable firstly bends to the left and then is bent back on itself to go the wheel arch and taped up so that there is too tight a bend in the wire. The second reason is that this join is below the washer fluid bottle and water dribbles down into the join which over time corrodes the wire. What I learnt when fixing the problem: It is much easier to access from the bottom of the engine bay. I started trying to un-tape the loom from the top (After removing the air filter box). After removing the wheel arch liner, I discovered it was much easier to access from the bottom and removing the liner gives you more room to manoeuvre your arms. You will have to remove a fair amount of tape and some conduit from the loom to work out which wire it is but there are only a couple of pink wires in that part of the loom and I think only one that has a tight bend. I cut out the bent/corroded piece of wire and replaced it. I have read on some forums that any fault codes need to be reset before the fan will work again. I didn’t reset my code (P145C, Fan System Component A) and it worked anyway. The attached pictures show 1) A picture of the PWM signal on the pink wire viewed on an oscilloscope. This is with the fan full on. 2) a picture of the wiring loom from above after removing tape/conduit - This taken with the air intake box removed. 3) The small section of wire that I removed and the break/corrosion in the middle 4) A view of the PCM module inside the wheel arch with the liner removed 5) A picture of the wiring loom from below with the pink wire cut out Hopefully all of this info will be useful to someone……
  2. Antc91

    Ecoboost cooling system.

    Hi all, I have the 1.6 ecoboost and had been looking coolent, found it had been slowly leaking from the join in the heater matrix pipes is the footwell(seems pretty common). Anyway I replaced the O rings in the pipes and when I was refilling and bleeding the system I noticed the top radiator hose was cool and the lower was very hot, is this normal? I have heat in the car, the pipes entering and leaving the heater matrix are both hot? The coolent in the tank was warming up. Am I right in just running the engine with the expansion tank cap of or is there another way to bleed the system out? Cheers
  3. MentalParadox

    Streetka Overheating

    I bought my 2004 Streetka almost two years ago. It worked fine for a long time, until a few months ago I noticed it seemed to start overheating. Even a brief 2 kilometer drive would heat up the engine so much, the ventilator can be heard running at maximum speed when you turn off the car. The air coming from the heating system is also so hot, it literally burns your hands. I am genuinely scared my engine is going to explode one day. This problem started all of a sudden, so it's not 'just the way the car is built'. Another problem, but possibly unrelated, is that fuel consumption of the car seems abnormally high all of a sudden. Like, I can only drive 300 miles on a single tank. I checked the coolant liquid, it's fine. The two garages I've been to for this problem detected no issues whatsoever. They say the ventilator kicks in at the correct temperatures, but that doesn't mean the engine isn't overheating... Would it be possible the water cooler is broken (and somehow the oafs at those garages didn't see it)? If not, could one install a second coolant tube to increase the flow of coolant? I really need this car for work, I am close to broke, and this problem needs to go away.
  4. Hi, I have a 2015 Focus, for some strange reasons the cooling fans are really loud when driving and also when the ignition is turned off. When I turn the car off they only stay on for a second but they’re very loud. Bit concerned if anyone could help it would be great.
  5. dickeygreen

    Unknown Pipe...

    Is anyone able to ID a pipe.. I think it's a coolant pipe, but I'm not sure... We've been having problems with the coolant and I've just changed the expansion tank. While doing so, I noticed a random pipe that isn't connected to anything and I don't think its meant to be where it is... Any thoughts greatly appreciated, Its a Focus 06.
  6. Hi, I bough a used Fiesta with 125bhp Ecoboost couple of months ago. Since I'm aware that the engine can get destroyed in a case of coolant loss I decided to have a closer look at it today. I noticed that the coolant hose that is going from turbo to the radiator has been worn out a bit by the heat shield that is protecting it. The head shield has bitten 1-2 mm into the hose and I see that it might potentially cause a slow coolant leak. For now I haven't lost any coolant but since these engines seem to need a proper cooling all the time I'm a bit worried of these kind of small imperfections in the cooling system. Im going to get my hose changed asap. Below is a picture of the hose and the heat shield.
  7. Hello there, I hope not to get stoned for repeating questions as I am sure what I write here has been covered already. I have done my browsing on here and I think I have some of the answers but I would like to get the full picture so please bear with me. After a long period of driving Japanese I ended up having a 2005 Focus Estate with a 1.6 TI-VCT engine. I have had it for a good week now and as far as I can tell after about 500 miles I like it. When I bought it the coolant temperature guage was suspiciously steady at 60 C even after 15-20 miles. I think I should have thought of the obvious why the previous owner parted with it. I suspect my thermostat is stuck open or semi open. The tests I have done so far: Set the on-board computer to show the engine temperature ( I hope I am right saying this shows the cylinder head temperature) started the engine and put my hand on the radiator. Started with the radiator being cool and the temperature in it started to build up very quickly , although the engine temperature was only showing about 86-88 degree C. The coolant temperature gauge was still on 60 degree C. Then I spent another 20 mins sitting on 1500RPM (still on the drive) to get the engine temperature up to 120-125 degree C. At this point the coolant temperature guage had reached around 80 degree C. I carried on warming the engine to test if the fan was working as I had never heard it come on before. About 10 minutes later at around 142-143 degree C I finally could hear the sound so the fan was working. At this point the coolant gauge was just under 90 (ever so slightly before the middle mark) so I guess the gauge is not the most accurate as people here say the fan is set to come on around 100 C. I also took the car out for a drive a day later. I drove 20 miles to see what would happen under life like conditions with the computer set to show the engine temperature. I was doing a mixed drive, revving the cr@p out of it as well as go as slow as possible and the engine temperature just would not get over 80 degree C. I could only push it over when I rolled onto the drive and let the engine run for a few more minutes. The other thing I think my be a give away (I might be wrong) that from Peterborough to Birmingham and back with no traffic issues I could do near enough steady 65-70mph and the coolant guage would not move from 60 C and my mpg when I refilled the car worked out only to be 32-33mpg (around 8.8 l/ 100km). I would have expected more on a long run, given that the temperature was relatively mild at the weekend. The car pulls OK otherwise and does not judder or misfire. One strange thing I think is also worth mentioning that when I checked the engine temperature from home to work this morning upon turning the key to the second position whilst holding the trip computer button and selecting the engine temperature the starting temperature was about 43 degree C. I found it a bit odd as the car had not been driven since the evening before. I would have expected it to be around 10 C , same as the air temperature. Here are my questions: 1. Do you guys think it could be thermostat or is it something else? 2. Is it possible that my temperature sensors are not working or giving false reading? 3. Where is the coolant temperature sensor situated in my focus? 4.What temperature does the engine temperature sensor actually measures? Is it the cylinder head? 5. What is the usual operating temperature measured by the engine temperature sensor ? 6. At what temperature folks would you expect the thermostat to open and let coolant go to the radiator? 7. What is the temperature set point for the radiator fan? Is it 140 +/- 5 degree C of the engine temperature or is it the coolant at 90 -/+ 5 degree C? 8. Which temperature sensor feeds the ECU (PCM)? And would the ECU give the signal to the gauge on the dash or would it be a separare unit? Sorry for the lenghty post, I am new to cars although have been driving for 15 years but only just recently started to show interest in how they actually work. Thanks in advance! Pete
  8. Hello fellow foci lovers. Question, I have a 1.6 2001 focus. I have air con on my dash display but only have one fan. Is this set up correct as I'm unsure and have always seen focus' with 2 fans when they have air con.
  9. Hi guys, I am having a problem identifying this A/C system part. Does anyone know the exact name?
  10. D3ano0

    1998 Escort

    Hello good people of FOC, This is my first post on your forums since I have just inherited my Granddad's 1998 Escort, I'm hoping that you guys will be able to assist me over the next year or two that I plan on owning this car :) I saved the poor car from meeting the scrap heap as my granddad managed to blow the head gasket and took it upon myself to fix it. After a few weekends of work I managed to get it all fixed and running again, but there is still a problem. The radiator fan isn't kicking in when the temp picks up, which is probably the cause of the blown gasket. I have found that the fan is still functional by shorting the wires to the fan switch and therefore blame the fan switch itself. Now, the switch looks new.. which means that it may not be a Ford part and therefore may not be rated to the correct temperature as the original switch. The switch is rated at 100-95°C for low fan speed and 110-105°C for high. I want to know what temperatures the switch is meant to operate on an original part. If there are any MK VII owners out there can you please help me out by checking yours? Should I buy a lower temp rating to help prevent overheating? Thanks in advance
  11. On Saturday October 18th a light came on dashboard when I was driving a short distance and the air conditioning which was on did not work temporarily. It would not cool down, Then it started to work again. I looked at the engine with the motor running and it seemed there was a strange noise. A local mechanic tried to ocate problem using sensors, thinking it was an electrical fault. But he could not fix the problem. He thinks it is the cooling system. I called local Ford dealer (car is 2009 and out of warranty) who said over the phone, "that does not usually happen with Ford Fiestas". Anyway it is booked in. I am now worried that this is going to be something big and expensive to repair. Any thoughts? I am completely dependent on this car for work and drive 40 miles there and back a day. There is no alternative transport such as trains to get to my work. Rosie
  12. Dayce95

    Fiesta Mk5 Cooling

    Hello, I'm new to this forum so please, be nice lol. I've recently bought a Fiesta MK5 Finesse with the 1.3 engine and I was just wondering as to when to start getting worried about the engine temperature. When I have the heater on full the temp stays only just above the black bar on the gauge, but when it's on cool it goes straight to the middle, sometimes a little higher. Is this something to be worried about as a lot of people I know with this model Fiesta, their temp gauge stays quite low. Sorry if this seems like a daft question, oh and when the heaters on full, it's hot, and I mean, HOT. Thanks in advance.
  13. Hello, I'm new to this forum so please, be nice lol. I've recently bought a Fiesta MK5 Finesse with the 1.3 engine and I was just wondering as to when to start getting worried about the engine temperature. When I have the heater on full the temp stays only just above the black bar on the gauge, but when it's on cool it goes straight to the middle, sometimes a little higher. Is this something to be worried about as a lot of people I know with this model Fiesta, their temp gauge stays quite low. Sorry if this seems like a daft question, oh and when the heaters on full, it's hot, and I mean, HOT. Thanks in advance. :)
  14. Hi the mother in law was driving her 2000 1.6 focus and it started to shudder hardly any revs and waddled home. I was the called apon to have a look. The hose had disconnected from the top of the rad. New clip sorted. Secondly it started over heating and stalling. Looked again no coolant / water topped it up but not sure how long it was driven for like it. no pipe/hose leaks she had a mechanic look at it he thicks gasket but have not sure could it be water pump??? Besides that its a nice little runner be a shame to scrap for £165 but to save the hastle she's replaced it and wanted to scrap it so Ive put it in my garage for the time being to make sure before deside what to do. Thoughts on this matter would be very much appreciated
  15. Hi, I'm a new member. I have a 1999 Focus 1.8 TDdi which has done 99'000 miles. I have had a lot of work done on it and it runs like a new car but recently I've noticed the temperature gauge isn't going up as far. The heater is luke warm. Under harsh acceleration the gauge seems to go up to halfway but when I take my foot off or slow down it drops to about 1/4 of the way up. Could this be the thermostat stuck open?? Thanks for any advice or help anyone can offer..... Robert