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Found 7 results

  1. Hi I bought a second hand 63 plate Ford Ka Grand Prix 1.2 in Feb from Arnold Clark. One month after I got it, I was on the motorway and my check engine light came on and car went into limp mode - would not go above 30 mph. Turned car on and off, but this didn't help. Eventually had to get the car towed, and spark plugs and leads were changed. After this, there was a constant smell of petrol/gas in the car whenever I used the AC - turns out that when my spark plugs were being changed, Arnold Clark mechanics had cracked my air filter box. So also had that fixed. A few months later, engine warning light came on again as well as the general warning light and the car went into limp mode, but was fine after turning car on and off. Took it to a different garage - as I will not be putting my car back into Arnold Clark - who said the spark plug fault had not been cleared by the previous garage. So this was cleared, and the mechanic advised that if the issue continued it would probably be the coil pack. Everything was fine for around one month, when the same thing happened again. Had the car run on two different diagnostic machines which now said the coil pack was the issue, so I had this changed (I also had a burst pipe). Been fine for around 3 weeks until today when the engine warning light came on and the car went into limp mode again - fine after turning on and off. Does anyone have any idea what could possibly be the issue? I'm at a total loss now as to what the issue could be, and am pretty fed up of having an unreliable car. Any help is much appreciated!! Lauren

    Broken down

    So basically, started while driving to work around 2000/3000 revs car started to judder and lose power, then the engine warning light came on and traction light, I have a 2011 Ford Focus 1.6 titanium diesel. Sat waiting for the AA when I tried to re start the car it is idling rough really rough. And the warning light it's flashing massively any idea what it could be as the car has just been serviced? It has been sat up not running for about 16 months due to me being away with work but it ran fine for last three weeks after service, and I've given it a good run every day as I travel back and fourth from worth 60 miles each way?!
  3. Hi all A 00 Ford Focus MkI It overheated after following about an hour in stop/start rush our traffic, pulled off the road and allowed it to cool down. Topped up the coolant and continued journey without any more problems but the engine warning light came on and remained on. 5 hours later and no further issues/leaks/symptoms of over heating so I disconnected and reconnected the battery which turned off the engine warning light. Question... do you guys think that the shock of the overheating incident activated the engine warning light and my disconnecting the battery to turn it off could possibly be an end of it or am I just deluding myself? Regards A Nube
  4. I have a Ford Focus 2005 1.6 Zetec. I have had an on going issue with an engine warning light which indicated that it was the cambelt / sensor that was at fault. Both of which I have been told by the garage have been fixed. However each time I have had it back from the garage the engine warning light has come back on. EDIT (just to add I took it to a local garage who said the timing was totally out and it needed the cambelt changing, these did not do the work they hooked it up to the computer and then I took this information to the garage who sold me it) The garage assure me that it has been changed (I have not paid as I bought the car and the light came on so they have taken it back three times now to repair) However what is strange the engine warning light has come back on three times on the same point on the same road after I have had the car back. This last time it was driven 300 miles before the light came back on on this road. The time before it was 50 miles. My really stupid question is could it be the road causing the light to come on and there not actually being a fault? Or is it because I would have been driving it the exact way each time? 5th gear just above 40 mph and on a slight incline.
  5. I have the solid yellow engine light on the past two weeks. I had it checked with a scanner and the two issues that recur after the system is reset (it hadn't been scanned in a long time) are: 1. P1709: PNP Neutral Position Switch Out of Test Range 2. P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) I am quite technical/money poor right now so I'd like to learn to fix these myself. From what I've been told the cat is impossible to test (you can't open it, just replace it. Also, I have the feeling its not this as it passed its NCT/MOT 2 months ago and the emissions were fine - wouldn't they have caused trouble? As for #2 - I have absolutely no idea what that is? What is my best path to take if I want to investigate these errors myself?
  6. [i originally posted this as a reply to an older thread but feel it may be of use as identifying the problem and also one possible solution. Hope it helps] Ford Focus Mk1: Instrument cluster erratic behaviour, with (or without) internal/external lights issues (Apologies for verbosity) This first occured approx 4 years ago. Whilst driving on the motorway (typically I had to be above about 50mph) the speedo sometimes drops to zero, then returns to the correct speed a second or so later. This may then be followed by the rev counter dropping to zero and a second or so later recovering, then the engine management light coming on and going off, the odometer display going to horizontal lines and so on. Sometimes this would be completely at random just happening every now and then. At other times it would happen for several minutes with the dials and warning light going on and off though usually not all together. I found a few forum threads and implemented the removal and WD40'ing of the instrument cluster but this had no effect. (A friend had had a similar problem on his Focus and had found that this cluster connector fix had worked for him **). As the car drove perfectly well with no mis-fires or other safety issues I continued to drive it while monitoring whether the problem was getting any worse. However, after a month or so it then progressed to another level. As well as the instrument cluster issue it would then have periods with all the vehicle lights flickering including the headlights, internal lights and all of the console illumination. Having found another forum thread, and taking a bit of a punt, I had the battery changed but also had all the earth bonding points cleaned and tightened. All of the issues went away (but it was unclear whether it was a battery fault or the earth bonding). However the important point was that it was nothing to do with the instrument cluster itself but was the primary electrical supply to the vehicle. 4 weeks ago the faults re-occured. This time all of the symptoms started at the same time. Instrument dials dropping to zero, warning lights coming on and off, internal/external lights flickering etc. In a series of tests it seemed that the issue became worse if the A/C was switched on and/or the headlights, heated windscreen, heated rear window or other heavy electrical loading. Again this pointed to an electrical supply/voltage problem. After inspection, I determined that the negative battery terminal was slightly loose - not really loose, you had to put some pressure on it, but it could just about be turned by hand. Also there was some corrosion on the earth bonding point from the neg terminal to the vehicle chassis - this point is located under the air filter box. I cleaned the bonding point and had a new terminal clamp fitted for the battery. Again, since these actions the issues have all gone away. Both the negative terminal being loose and the bonding point being corroded could cause the voltage being seen by the vehicle systems to be low or fluctuate depending on the load. This in turn could cause the instrument cluster microprocessor to glitch or reset and other systems to misbehave. We can't say whether all such faults can be fixed by such simple remedies but it's certainly worth checking as a first stage before looking at more complex diagnostics. Good luck! [** End note: the instrument cluster removal / WD40'ing fix that has sorted some owners erratic instruments issue probably has a similar "root problem". Over a period of time the connector contact interface to the cluster may degrade, becoming more resistive and dropping the power supply volts to the instrument cluster by some small amount or affecting sensor signal paths. By disconnecting, lubing and re-connecting the harness, the contacts are cleaned and normal service may resume. Note that if the problem is with the harness connector you would be unlikely to also get the progression to the lighting flickering etc that I had]
  7. Amkreth

    Need Help With Limp Mode

    Hi all, I have a bit of a problem so go easy this my first time on here :) Yesterday i bought a focus 1.6 TDCi 110 XL 2006 plate, its at 112000 miles and i believe the last service was about 8k miles ago. I bought the car and it has both the ENGINE WARNING LIGHT on and also the ENGINE SYSTEMS FAULT LIGHT on. I bought it from an auctions and knew there was something wrong as why i paid not very much for it. It seems to be in limp mode ( not any guts and doesn't rev beyond 3k ) I haven't had it read for faults, hopeful will tonight through a friend of my dad. Also the turbo doesn't seem to kicking in, but it drives clean with no smoke and is quiet I know i don't have much info but opinions are welcome as to what the possible problems are. Thanks in advance Mike