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Found 45 results

  1. F0CUE

    Gearbox selector seal

    Does anyone know the part number for the gearbox selector seal. This is for the 1.6 sigma/duratec. I have searched but not 100% on getting the correct part.
  2. Hi, Just thought i would take the time to offer some findings I recently came across whilst replacing the Alternator on a Ford Focus Mk2.5 2.0l TDCi. I used the following guide: https://www.kugaownersclub.co.uk/forum/18-mk1-how/6634-alternator-removal-lots-pictures.html Although this is listed for the Ford Kuga, it was spot on for the my Ford Focus which I've had for a month! but eh Alternators do go faulty.... Like others on the guide i didn't feel the need to disconnect the fuel lines to the filter, just move to one side. The only issue i had was the removal of the bottom nut to the alternator as space was limited no matter what you used (Wrench/spanner/ratchet) perseverance was what was needed! The replacement Alternator was the same make and output (Denso - 150 Amp) with only a difference in part/model number though confirmed as a direct replacement with the supplier. The only issue i did have was my only stupid fault and that was leaving the key in the bonnet latch, which i duly broke! doah! This was put right by buying two keys from ebay which were then cut by virtue of a digital image! (£22 for 2 - not bad in my book) I ordered another fob to enable the opening/closing, with which came with a 4D-63 Transponder Chip from Amazon. This transponder chip was then programmed using FORScan App (You will need the Extended licence) without the need of having two master keys as reported on other sites/blogs/forums. Only the one key was required. The PATS will still identify 2 keys has been programmed in the list, and this will increment to 3 once you've added another, but there wasn't the need to erase and start afresh! Incidentally, I also came across a few articles concerning the resetting of the clock being difficult as the ECU would only go as far as 2013, and people were using the end date for Dec to get around this! If you set the clock on the radio, this will change the date/time on the ecu/dash. This came about as I had to disconnect the battery prior to changing the Alternator! Well that's it for now, just some tips if you haven't come across them before, some saved me a lot of money such as the cost of replacement keys, not cheap from Ford! Safe Driving.... Wilywalt
  3. Hallo mates :) I am here registered for a longer time so i have decided to introduce my toy :) i have a long list of modification so hopefuly i will be able to do them all - the only thing which slows the process is budget :D Ford Focus MK3 FL 1.5EB wagon / color Frozen White Wheels: still factory 17" OEM Ford + tyres ContiSportContact 3 215/50 R17 95W MODS done: J1 Performance Air filter w secondary cone and fitting disc ZetecS packet (fog light covers still missing) Engine factory software update from 150HP --> 182HP Yellow brake callipers MODS planned: Snorkel delete + RS air box Wheels 18" (currently Japan Racing JR21 or JR22 are in sight) :) Eibach Pro kit ???? i will decide later because roads here are not that good Sport car pedals and foot rest DUPLEX muffler adding factory PARKING ASSISTANT adding factory BLIS system adding factory rear camera SS-Tuning fender flares SS-Tuning gear knob boomba racing throttle body spacer boomba racing BOV adapter mud flaps ClimAir Wind Deflectors + sun protection black roof + wing mirrors individual chip tuning to gain 200HP Also would love to change the IC for a better one but unfortunately have no idea how because in 1.5EB we already have a water IC and not standard air-to-air IC as it is in 1.6EB And a few pictures: Stock: After sport package: Opened performance air filter by J1 Performance: Sport pedals + footrest: Boombaracing Blow Off Adapter prototype:
  4. Casserole

    Mk7 Mods

    Hi all, I’m just starting to modify my facelift mk7 fiesta and I’ve already had some issues. So I’ve got some lowering springs and I noticed the rear top pad on the current springs has deteriorated and needs replacing. Is it worth paying the extra money for the powerflex pads? Or keep them standard? Also is there anything else worth replacing, on the front or rear, while I’ll do the swap? I would also like an air filter but have no idea which one to get, any suggestions? Also I would like a remap but nothing silly, like maybe 130/140bhp ish. I currently have 99bhp. Again any suggestions? Any other recommendations for mods? Tom
  5. Hi all, Can anyone advise please if front and rear full bumpers or bumper extensions designed for Mk2 Facelift Focus' can fit on pre Facelift models? I have a 2006 Focus Mk2 Sport looking in to doing some first time modding. Any help appreciated
  6. Hey I been looking at Ford Focus ST 2015+ models that have their grills sanded down so the honeycomb is all see-through. Just wanted to know if anyone on here has done it? Any pros and cons?
  7. hello, i currently have a 1.6 tdci, its remapped and has a k&n airfilter on and a straight pipe exhaust (still has decat) i believe its on the round about 136+ mark but dont have a solid number as never dyno'ed it, i want to upgrade my turbo to a hybrid turbo but i want to know if anyone else has advice etc on it and can point me to right parts to upgrade and prices etc please ?
  8. Hello everyone, I seem to be having a issue after I de-tangoing my headlights. The passenger side headlight's cut off seems to go way above the other. Basically I'm in for a MOT next month and I'm a little scared it will fail due to this. Any ideas on what I've done would be great. I think I may have scratched the inside of the plastic or possibly knocked the ballast off. If anyone's had this issue please let me know below. Thanks alot
  9. Okay, so looking for your opinions on the pros and cons of each option, what's good, bad and ultimately...what's best. I've owned my mk7.5 fiesta 5 door Titanium since new...now three years old and I'm NOT about to spend another winter driving around with the crap bulbs that Ford seem to enjoy fitting as standard equipment! I'm looking to change all the bulbs out, front and rear, (and interior lights) in time for the winter months that will no doubt he here before we know it...so what should I go for? I'm really disappointed with the factory fitted bulbs on the headlights, but would quite like a more modern look so am considering HID's for main beam and Osram Nghtbreaker Laser or Unlimited for high beam. also thinking of using LED's for indicators, etc, but no idea how to tell a good LED from a lesser made product. only bulbs I'm thinking of leaving standard are front and rear fogs as I think I've used them probably twice since new and so really can't recall how effective they were, but given they're so rarely used I don't see the point in changing them out, unless they blow of course! Lastly I'm also trying to pluck the courage up to remove the headlamp units, bake them, open them up and go for the "black" look...any advice/suggestions on this would also be most welcome. 👍🏻 be interesting to read your thoughts...
  10. Hi all, My names Jason, I'm 23 and live in Burton, Staffordshire. I'm new to the forum but have previously been a member of Zetec S Owners Club & Fiesta STOC. First off a brief history of my car past. My first car was a MK7 Fiesta Zetec S Metal Edition! Next up, was a Panther Black Fiesta ST3 (MP215) Due to my circumstances changing, having to do a lot of long distance driving, I had to sell her :( and get a MK3 1.6 TDCI Focus Zetec. Got me from A to B and a solid reliable car all round. Had a surprising amount of talk and felt more powerful than 115 BHP, and the gear box actually felt really nice. But it was just too slow and boring for my liking, so as soon as I was able to I got rid of that. And so that leads me to now, my new beaST, a Frozen White Fiesta ST3 with ALL the trimmings! Collection Day: So I plan on keeping this car for quite a while (until I can eventually afford a MK3 Focus RS - my next goal!) More Pics after her first clean: I was going to go with Mountune to keep the warranty...but it's a 65 plate and only has 1 1/2 years left on it...so by the time I have the Mountune stuff done, it will be out of warranty anyway. So I plan on going with REVO instead. My overall goal is to have Stage 4 w/ Hybrid Turbo. That being said, my first performance mod may still be the MP215 kit as well as the Mountune Exhaust as I think they both finish the car off nicely and will keep me going till the warranty runs out. So in the mean time it will be mostly cosmetic mods + MP215 and Mountune Cat Back. First thing I did was have the front lip wrapped matte black with a red pin stripe. I think this looks great on the white and makes the front look a lot more aggressive. Next up, I swapped the front headlights for white 6000k bulbs. I will eventually be getting HIDs installed but this was just to keep me going until I order a full HID kit. I will also be replacing the Fog lamp bulbs with white 6000Ks. (Haven't got a good picture of these yet but when I do I'll post one) Next I added my Leather ST seatbelt covers from my last ST. Haven't got a pic of these either yet but when I do I'll add to the post. I also added a ST badge logo in the void on the steering wheel as I'll be getting a cover eventually and that would cover up the logo already on the wheel. Think I'm gonna swap with for the black gel one from DMB eventually though. Next one is gonna be a marmite mod, I can tell. Ordered these decals from eBay. Everyone so far loves them but I imagine some wouldn't. And finally today, my Team Heko wind deflectors came. I added a red pin stripe, but not sure if I'm gonna keep it or not yet....I haven't decided if I like it or not...thoughts? So that's where she stands at the moment! I have some white LEDs coming Monday for the number plate and interior lights so I'll update when they are fitted as well as get some pics of the exterior lights and seat belt covers. Thanks for looking guys! I'll be keeping this thread updated when more mods happen. Got big plans for this car in the future and I'm really looking forward to achieving them and having you all involved! Any feed back is much appreciated :) - J
  11. Im wanting to buy some alloys if anyone is selling some (Not after the ford alloys). Just unsure on whether to stay with 18"s or to go 19"s. I have coilovers at the moments which needs to be fitted so can adjust to any height. Also Wanting to get the ST Flat Bottom Steering wheel which i need to know will fit my car and also if the cruise control function will work as i don't have that. I know that you need to mess around with a software to enable it but just want to know if i get the buttons and the wiring for it will it be a plug and play sort of thing with enabling it through a software or is it more harder than i think. Any suggestions on what mods to do to my car feel free. MODS DONE SO FAR: ST SPOILER, LIGHT SMOKE TAIL LIGHTS, HEKO WIND DEFLECTORS, DECHROMED, DEBADGED, GEL BADGE OVERLAYS, REAR WIPER DELETE. Thanks
  12. Magic Friend

    Facelift conversion?

    Hi guys, I'm new here, so I thought that I would start with a very small question. Can a Mk1 facelift front bumper be put onto a pre-facelift version? I'm encouraged to believe it will from looking at pictures. After all, the headlights appear to be the same, but I could be mistaken and it never hurts to ask :-) Many thanks, Paul
  13. Newblet

    Mechanical issue (rattle)

    Hello, I'm new to driving (passed in December) and I'm not very mechanical savy. I bought a 56 fiesta on 31st December and it's been running fine since then until recently. The issues I'm having are as follows. I hear a springy noise when dropping the clutch There is a knocking/rattle noise when the clutch is down When in first gear at low revs the car vibrates moderately when raising the clutch When in reverse the car vibrates very badly and feels like the wheels are spinning/struggling A clear liquid seems to drop from the backbox (no odour) I've flushed the coolant, topped up the oil, checked all the liquid i can see and they're all fine. It's about to hit 70k miles Someone suggested clutch maybe on the way out but better to get fellow ford lovers opinions. Thanks for any reply.
  14. Hey all. There seems to be loads of broken guides, questions with a few answers etc in regards to this, and seeing as I lurk a lot I thought it's about time I gave something back. Here's my guide to removing pre facelift clocks, and replacing them with facelifts! Basically, we're going from the green ones on the left, to the nice new facelift clocks on the right. If anybodies interested, I did this on a Focus 1.6 (100) petrol Sport, 2007 pfl. REQUIREMENTS: 2 Keys (I've read that people have done this with less than two but ForScan REFUSED to complete one of the final steps for me with one) Your vehicle MUST NOT be keyless ForScan Extended License (Click here for ForScan Download and here for extended license. Extended license is free for two months, but you need to sign up to forums) ELMConfig (Can be found here) Modified ELM327 Cable able to work on both speed CANBUS networks (Like this one here, although I've used a cheaper version and it works, but this one is 100%) AutoKeyProg account (Completely free, needed to get code to program keys. Their site is here, just be careful as you can only do a few codes a day) Facelift Clocks, but you NEED to buy ones with a lower mileage than your car. Otherwise, you may have issues, but probably just a higher mileage reading. A Torx Screwdriver (Not sure on size, but same screws as the ones behind stereo, glovebox etc) AND time, although if I did this again it'd take 15~ mins. Step 1: Go and install ELMConfig & ForScan. It's best to sort your extended license out with ForScan now so you can breeze through the whole thing. Once these are set up, we're ready to go. Get in your car and hook up the cable to the OBD port. Open up ELMconfig, click HEC on the left, and then Configuration on the top tabs. You need to save HEC Page 1 & 2 pages of settings. Also at this point note down your current mileage and keep it safe. Step 2: Now once you have your current settings and mileage, you can actually swap the clocks. Turn the ignition off, and remove them. They are quite simple to change, just pull the cover from behind the steering wheel off, and undo the two screws. You may need to ease them out from the top with a flathead screwdriver, and then do the swap. Step 3: Once the new clocks are in, go back to ELMconfig (close it and reopen), and go back to the HEC menu, then Configuration again. Write your old settings back to the new clocks. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ON PAGE 1, AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT, YOU ENABLE HEC LEVEL 2/3, AND SELECT THE CLOCK OPTION. Failure to do that can mess the clocks. Also ENSURE that obvious settings, like engine, are set correctly. A quick side note that cost me an hour: The clocks I brought were from a keyless vehicle. I got stuck at programming keys for an hour because the clocks were still configured for keyless. To correct this, and it's a good idea to check this anyway,is to go to HEC Configuration Page 2, and make sure in the HEC Level 2/3 box that the bottom option is Standard PATS (Focus Facelift Level 2/3) Step 4: These are the most important steps, as this is where you programme your keys and sync the new cluster to the powertrain! Once you've done that the clocks are fully configured. They should work with ignition on, light up, let you go through menus, but the car won't start. This is fine. We need to now go on ForScan (Extended License IS REQUIRED NOW). I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE ORIGINAL TUTORIAL HERE AS IT GOES INTO MUCH MORE DETAIL! On my Focus, it said it wasn't sure if the key was programmed and to check the counter. It did successfully do both my keys, so that was all good. Once you've programmed two keys, you can sync the new cluster to the powertrain control module. Again, read ForScan's own documentation for this: This is ForScan's guide. You need to do "Module Initialisation" to sync the cluster Step 5: You're technically now done! At this point, the car should start and be happy. You can now follow James Simpson's brilliant guide on how to enable and disable cluster functions. Mine had washer fluid sensor, which I physically don't have, so had to turn that off, and also the annoying reverse alarm. Have a play about, as there is a hell of a lot you can enable with these clocks, especially if you still have the stock head unit in the car. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU CORRECT YOUR MILEAGE AT THIS POINT. IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT APART FROM BEING MORALLY WRONG, GETTING CAUGHT SELLING THE CAR WITH MISLEADING MILEAGE IS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE, AND YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET IN TROUBLE IF YOUR MILEAGE HAS DROPPED SINCE YOUR LAST MOT. To do this, go back on ELMConfig, go to HEC, then Procedures. You can now change the mileage to your original. DO NOT MESS THIS UP AS YOU CAN ONLY GO UP! That's all guys :) Any feedback, extra info or corrections would be appreciated. I would personally HIGHLY recommend doing this as it looks a hell of a lot smarter. Also there is a facelift clock with a bigger display that can support sat nav and a better display quality, but these are really rare.
  15. gregberry

    Zetec S Ecoboost 1.0

    I've been on these forums for a while and I haven't really seen anyone say anything about the new fiesta. I picked up my new fiesta Saturday. Facelift 62 plate Fiesta Zetec s in panther black I was a bit worried about the new engine…but I really had nothing to worry about, I can't tell you how much fun it it to drive. The sound and drive is so different, now the engine is so much smaller the sound is just of turbo when revving. It's really quick compared to my 61 plate Zetec S and I didn't think it would be. The look is really nice as well, much more aggressive. I'm really pleased. Pictures to follow.
  16. Hello, not sure if this is the right place to be posting. I bought a set of car mats almost 2 years ago for my fiesta mk7 facelift, started looking to change them for a different colour but can't find them again. Does anyone know of anywhere selling or designing these mats? Thanks
  17. Does anyone know of a place online that will sell 5 Door Mk2.5 Focus ST or Zetec S side skirts (or at least ones that look similar)? I've looked around online and all i can seem to find are the cheap Fiberglass or GRP side skirts, which I don't want because they are far too brittle for the Northern Irish roads. I've only managed to find one set of ABS plastic side skirts online for £99, but they aren't the Zetec S/ST skirts I have been looking for. Does anybody know of a place that sells them? Preferably a place that won't cost an arm, a leg and a left nut to buy? Thanks.
  18. Hey all. There seems to be loads of broken guides, questions with a few answers etc in regards to this, and seeing as I lurk a lot I thought it's about time I gave something back. Here's my guide to removing pre facelift clocks, and replacing them with facelifts! Basically, we're going from the green ones on the left, to the nice new facelift clocks on the right. If anybodies interested, I did this on a Focus 1.6 (100) petrol Sport, 2007 pfl. REQUIREMENTS: 2 Keys (I've read that people have done this with less than two but ForScan REFUSED to complete one of the final steps for me with one) Your vehicle MUST NOT be keyless ForScan Extended License (Click here for ForScan Download and here for extended license. Extended license is free for two months, but you need to sign up to forums) ELMConfig (Can be found here) Modified ELM327 Cable able to work on both speed CANBUS networks (Like this one here, although I've used a cheaper version and it works, but this one is 100%) AutoKeyProg account (Completely free, needed to get code to program keys. Their site is here, just be careful as you can only do a few codes a day) Facelift Clocks, but you NEED to buy ones with a lower mileage than your car. Otherwise, you may have issues, but probably just a higher mileage reading. A Torx Screwdriver (Not sure on size, but same screws as the ones behind stereo, glovebox etc) AND time, although if I did this again it'd take 15~ mins. Step 1: Go and install ELMConfig & ForScan. It's best to sort your extended license out with ForScan now so you can breeze through the whole thing. Once these are set up, we're ready to go. Get in your car and hook up the cable to the OBD port. Open up ELMconfig, click HEC on the left, and then Configuration on the top tabs. You need to save HEC Page 1 & 2 pages of settings. Also at this point note down your current mileage and keep it safe. Step 2: Now once you have your current settings and mileage, you can actually swap the clocks. Turn the ignition off, and remove them. They are quite simple to change, just pull the cover from behind the steering wheel off, and undo the two screws. You may need to ease them out from the top with a flathead screwdriver, and then do the swap. Step 3: Once the new clocks are in, go back to ELMconfig (close it and reopen), and go back to the HEC menu, then Configuration again. Write your old settings back to the new clocks. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT ON PAGE 1, AT THE BOTTOM RIGHT, YOU ENABLE HEC LEVEL 2/3, AND SELECT THE CLOCK OPTION. Failure to do that can mess the clocks. Also ENSURE that obvious settings, like engine, are set correctly. A quick side note that cost me an hour: The clocks I brought were from a keyless vehicle. I got stuck at programming keys for an hour because the clocks were still configured for keyless. To correct this, and it's a good idea to check this anyway,is to go to HEC Configuration Page 2, and make sure in the HEC Level 2/3 box that the bottom option is Standard PATS (Focus Facelift Level 2/3) Step 4: These are the most important steps, as this is where you programme your keys and sync the new cluster to the powertrain! Once you've done that the clocks are fully configured. They should work with ignition on, light up, let you go through menus, but the car won't start. This is fine. We need to now go on ForScan (Extended License IS REQUIRED NOW). I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THE ORIGINAL TUTORIAL HERE AS IT GOES INTO MUCH MORE DETAIL! On my Focus, it said it wasn't sure if the key was programmed and to check the counter. It did successfully do both my keys, so that was all good. Once you've programmed two keys, you can sync the new cluster to the powertrain control module. Again, read ForScan's own documentation for this: This is ForScan's guide. You need to do "Module Initialisation" to sync the cluster Step 5: You're technically now done! At this point, the car should start and be happy. You can now follow James Simpson's brilliant guide on how to enable and disable cluster functions. Mine had washer fluid sensor, which I physically don't have, so had to turn that off, and also the annoying reverse alarm. Have a play about, as there is a hell of a lot you can enable with these clocks, especially if you still have the stock head unit in the car. I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU CORRECT YOUR MILEAGE AT THIS POINT. IT GOES WITHOUT SAYING, THAT APART FROM BEING MORALLY WRONG, GETTING CAUGHT SELLING THE CAR WITH MISLEADING MILEAGE IS A CRIMINAL OFFENCE, AND YOU'RE LIKELY TO GET IN TROUBLE IF YOUR MILEAGE HAS DROPPED SINCE YOUR LAST MOT. To do this, go back on ELMConfig, go to HEC, then Procedures. You can now change the mileage to your original. DO NOT MESS THIS UP AS YOU CAN ONLY GO UP! That's all guys :) Any feedback, extra info or corrections would be appreciated. I would personally HIGHLY recommend doing this as it looks a hell of a lot smarter. Also there is a facelift clock with a bigger display that can support sat nav and a better display quality, but these are really rare.
  19. Hey there, Recently joined after lurking a bit. Am I the only one who has issues finding parts for this car? I mean the 1.6 has plenty but when it comes to the 1.5l ecoboost I need to constantly contact people for them to say 1.6 is what they offer. Has anyone purchased some proper aftermarket brake rotors for the aforesaid model? I would appreciate some recommendations that may fit. Thanks in advance.
  20. Pleased to say that in the coming months I should officially be able to join Stoney's so called jammy beggars club! :P I have ordered a new 2015 Mk3.5 Focus ST-3 2.0 EcoBoost in Deep Impact Blue, with: Rear Privacy Glass Heated Steering Wheel Premium Nav with Sony speakers & Sub. Rear View Camera Driver Assistance Pack It is a factory order, so I do have a bit of a wait, the car is currently scheduled for an unspecified September build, but reading about the delays with the ST (particularly ST-3), hopefully I will get it before my car is 1 yr old and needs taxing and servicing, at least before Christmas! As some of you will know, I was incredibly frustrated with the apparent "design-intent" of the 1.5 EcoBoost I bought last year, so much so I have dubbed it the EcoRattle. After months of trying to get the issue resolved, I have managed to come to an agreeable resolution for changing the car, as I just cannot live with the turbo rattle. I'm still going to loose out a bit financially, but at least I am getting an upgrade out of it. Test drove one a few weeks ago, and now I can't wait to get my own :D Should look like this: https://youtu.be/RUIwO11kV34 Updates Arrived at dealers: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/73233-new-2015-mk35-st-ordered-goodbye-ecorattle/?p=533167 Collection day: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/73233-alexp999s-mk35-focus-st-3-ecoboost/?p=533876
  21. Hi guys. Ive recently been installing a Subwoofer into my Fiesta Mk 7 facelift. Since its a newer car, not much has been written for these. Once ive done it all ill post a thread explaining what the differences are to help anyone out in the same situation. Ive hit a few problems in the process. For a start, the wiring diagrams found for the head dont have any matching coloured wires to that in my car suggesting that ford have changed the colours around. The second problem is the two 12v power cables in the back of the head unit are both more or less constant. Since ford has a stereo that stays on without the ignition, the sub stays on while the ignition is off. would routing the power remote wire to my 12v socket be the best idea? obviously dont want the sub on without the engine. Finally ive got alternator interference which i think I can fix but if anyone knows a quick fix thatl be awesome.
  22. mark_trueman

    T6 (Facelift) Alloy Grille

    Hi All, Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier for a T6 Facelift Model custom / alloy front grille? The ones on Fleabay are a bit...mmm :( Cheers, Mark
  23. I've had my 1.3 2003 fiesta for just over 3 months, im hooked, eve though my particular car is a bit of a mess I love it. All sorts of issues with oil leaks, coolant leaks and a few electrical gremlins, it all seems to be fixed (for now). Its my first car so its pretty beat up. I am in the process of removing as many of the scratches and dints that I can but its a slow process. I'm not planning on keeping the car for more than a year, I bought it pretty cheap so I am trying to add value and hopefully sell it for more, then onto the next fiesta. One thing I discovered was the facelift parts, I love the look of them and my headlights are all scratched up from what looks like someone changed a bulb and rested the unit on the floor. I was wondering if anyone knows if the facelift headlights/rear lights fit a standard 2003 fiesta?
  24. Has anyone successfully put a facelift (mk7.5 ) front onto a prefacelift fiesta (mk7)? My question is what parts would I need and how to go about the DRL'S. Also were there any issues or anything else that I should know? I know it's an expensive job as so far the only advice I have managed to find is that financially it's not worth it. I'm still going ahead with this so any advice would be much appreciated.