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Found 29 results

  1. Hi, Has anyone changed the Auxillary/Fan belt on a ford fiesta (Mines is 2009 model). The Haynes Manual says you need a tensioner kit etc. Although I've seen a few things online that say you can loosen the alternator a bit which gives you some slack. Anyone tried this? Also any pictures or diagrams would be helpful. The cars making a squeaking noise which is coming from that area of the engine bay so want to replace the belt then see how it goes. Thanks Craig
  2. Like a lot of people it seems, I had trouble with the radiator/cooling fan not operating on my S Max. Presumably this also applies to the Galaxy mk3 and the Mondeo. I have now fixed the problem and thought it would be helpful to share what I know as there is little information that I found when searching the internet, some of which is incorrect. I am an electronics/software engineer by trade and so for my own curiosity as much as anything I wanted to find out how the fan operates..... Attached to the cooling fan housing is a speed controller in a small metal box. Some forum posts refer to this as a relay box, which is incorrect. It is driven by a PWM signal - to those who don't know what that is, it is a continuous series of pulses that change width dependant on the speed required. There are three wires going to the fan controller, a permanent 12V feed (Red), a ground (Black) and a pink wire. The pink wire is the control (PWM) wire. There are two wires that come out of the other end of the speed controller and connect to the fan. The powertrain control module (PCM) in the wheel arch drives the PWM signal on the pink wire. So how do you tell if the fan should be on? The signal on the pink wire appears to be an open-collector drive - a bit technical but basically means that you probably won’t be able to measure a signal unless it is plugged in to the fan speed controller at the time. This is also how the PCM detects a fan fault. The speed controller has an internal pull-up resistor between the pink wire and 12V (Measures about 2700 ohms). When the fan is connected, the PCM module can see the 12V on the pink wire, so when the fan is disconnected, the 12V disappears from the pink wire and the PCM can detect a fault. If you have a voltmeter - when connected between ground and the pink wire you should see 12V (or whatever the battery voltage is) when the fan is off and a lower voltage when the fan is on. The actual voltage will depend on how fast the fan should be going and the type of voltmeter but it will probably be around 4V at full speed. I believe there are two ways to force the fan to come on. The first is to disconnect the engine temperature sensor - however I did not try this as I was not sure where it was. The second method (that I used) is to turn the aircon on full - when the aircon is on the cooling fan should come on full speed. This will only happen though when the engine is running as the aircon pump has to be engaged. If you just want to test the fan itself works, you can disconnect the 2 pin connector from the output of the fan controller and connect them to 12V and GND. I did this by also removing the 3 pin connector and using the red and black connections on their to link across to the fan connector. So what was wrong with my fan ? I had what appears to be a common problem of the pink control wire being broken/corroded in the wiring loom. The following is a description of a right hand drive, I don't know if the engine layout is different for a LHD. The PCM module is located in the passenger (near) side wheel arch. You need to remove the wheel and arch liner to get at it (Mine has the protective cover over the connectors with a shear bolt which I don't have tools to remove). You don’t have to take the wheel/liner off but I found it gave me better access to the loom. The wiring loom from the PCM goes through the arch and at about 6 inches in to the engine bay (pretty much under the bottom radiator hose) part of the loom goes up to the top. This bit of the loom is cable tied to the inner wing. This contains the pink control wire which then goes across to the fan controller. My pink wire was broken/corroded at the point the loom separates in the bottom of the bay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that the cable firstly bends to the left and then is bent back on itself to go the wheel arch and taped up so that there is too tight a bend in the wire. The second reason is that this join is below the washer fluid bottle and water dribbles down into the join which over time corrodes the wire. What I learnt when fixing the problem: It is much easier to access from the bottom of the engine bay. I started trying to un-tape the loom from the top (After removing the air filter box). After removing the wheel arch liner, I discovered it was much easier to access from the bottom and removing the liner gives you more room to manoeuvre your arms. You will have to remove a fair amount of tape and some conduit from the loom to work out which wire it is but there are only a couple of pink wires in that part of the loom and I think only one that has a tight bend. I cut out the bent/corroded piece of wire and replaced it. I have read on some forums that any fault codes need to be reset before the fan will work again. I didn’t reset my code (P145C, Fan System Component A) and it worked anyway. The attached pictures show 1) A picture of the PWM signal on the pink wire viewed on an oscilloscope. This is with the fan full on. 2) a picture of the wiring loom from above after removing tape/conduit - This taken with the air intake box removed. 3) The small section of wire that I removed and the break/corrosion in the middle 4) A view of the PCM module inside the wheel arch with the liner removed 5) A picture of the wiring loom from below with the pink wire cut out Hopefully all of this info will be useful to someone……
  3. Hi, I have a 2015 Focus, for some strange reasons the cooling fans are really loud when driving and also when the ignition is turned off. When I turn the car off they only stay on for a second but they’re very loud. Bit concerned if anyone could help it would be great.
  4. I recently bought a 2002 1.8tdci Focus Ghia estate. When the heater/fan/AC is off (it is the digital, temperature control dash), warm air continues to come through the vents. It does not seem to be possible to have outside (cold) air coming through the vents. This isn't really an issue at this time of year (it was -10 the other day!) but in summer I wouldn't really want to be in this situation in the summer. The temperature controls seem to be very erratic - i.e. setting the temp sometimes seems to work, other times it doesn't seem to bear much resemblance to the temp in the car. Any ideas if this is due to any particular faulty part or if there is anything I can try to resolve this?
  5. adamdunnet

    Radiator fan

    Hello all! I've just bought a 64 plate fiesta (titanium ecoboost) and today I noticed that the fan is kicking in as soon as I start the engine. I was under the impression that the fan shouldn't start until the engine gets a bit warmer. Is this unusual or is it a ford/fiesta thing? It's still under the 3 month warranty so if there's something wrong I should be able to get it seen to.
  6. Hi, Just wondering if anyone can tell me what this plug should go into (the plug in the red square), as at the moment its just hanging. And what it is for, the only thing not working is the air con as the fan is not kicking in. I'm hoping this just need to be plugged back in but i cant see where it should go. Thanks 1.0 2016 ecoboost fiesta
  7. 2 mins Any ford mechanics on here? I have a 2013 Ford Focus 1.6 tdci, my cooling fan is constantly on even when I haven't driven the car for days it comes on without any keys in the ignition and when I open the door, I have tried the coolant changing the relay disconnecting and reconnecting, can anyone tell me if they have had the same problem it would be greatly appreciated, sorry if it's already been covered take it easy on me I'm just a boy who loves his car😂😂
  8. Hello, Got out of the S-Max 2.0Litre Diesel tonight, fan running....not uncommon after a high speed run or time spent in traffic - thought nothing of it. 10 minutes later went back out to car.....Fan still running.....odd as the journey we had just made was only 5 minutes and not high speed. Started car again - let it idle - wanted to see if it would correct did not. Decided to pull the hood and disconnect the fuse......F5 - 60 ~Amps.....found out this is the type which have a bolted in type of fuse.....could not easily remove it so disconnected battery and left it for 20 minutes. Re-attached it and the fan kicked in straight away. So in my mind I am looking at a faulty fuse (unlikely as this would go open circuit).....faulty fan relay (located on side of fan and looks to be honest like a miniature ECU) or faulty engine coolant sensor. Any suggestions what else it could be? Am I safe to pull the bolted type fuse at 60 amps so the wife can drive the car about (5 mile journeys to and from school real traffic).....?.....or should I pull the wiring from the fan where it plus into the relay on the radiator fan cowl - just so the car can be used while I do a bit more investigation (Hopefully someone on here will know what to do more than me !!). Look forward to hearing from you guy's. Many Thanks, Chris
  9. For some reason my fan came on as soon as I turned my engine on and it's not stopped since, this hasn't happened before normally it'll come on for a few minutes once I've turned my engine off. I'm assuming this isn't normal? Can anyone advise me on what I should do? ***update, my battery has gone flat yet my car wasn't on, now my car won't even lock so waiting on breakdown recovery***
  10. 2003 Fiesta 1.25: had problems with the fiesta overheating even though temp gauge says normal temp on dashboard. After box ticking all the usual culprits (relays, fuses, isolating fan to test it works which it does etc) found out it's the ECU ignoring any messages from the temperature sensor. Decided to bypass the ECU by cutting through the top radiator hose and fitting an aftermarket inline sensor adapter and temperature gauge with sensor. Has anybody fitted one of these so that it works the aftermarket gauge as well as kicking the fan in when the engine starts to overheat. Please could you give me some advice as there are no instructions or wiring diagrams and electrics aren't my thing or if anyone knows of any YouTube videos that are actually useful that would also be appreciated. Thanks.
  11. Hi there, Used my car he other day and noticed that the windows needed cleared. I normally have it set at number 1, but only kicked in when I set it to number 4. When I had it se to number 4, I changed the temperature gauge and this also seem to change the flow rather then the temperature. Any ideas, thanks in advance.
  12. DecFiesta2012

    Fiesta loud AC rattle/vibration

    Hi all, when I turn my AC on it rattles and vibrates very loudly, I think it may be the fan. The car was serviced in September with no problems. Does anyone have an idea what this may be and what the cost is to repair it? Thanks
  13. Hi all, I have a 2006 1.6diesel Focus estate which I've never thought particularly reliable since I got it around 2 years ago. It's always had a problem with juddering and I don't seem to be able to fix the problem. Garages have done checks and found nothing wrong. Seems like there's so many things it could be that it'd cost me way too much to fix. Anyway, I can live with it, even though it can get very annoying. More recently, the engine warning light comes on randomly. I'm not an unsafe car owner - I get a service every year (next one is coming up in August) and I do under-the-bonnet checks fairly regularly. I thought the light might be a glitch, as it comes and goes. More recently again, after driving, the engine fan stays on for a few minutes and is very loud. Then yesterday, I was driving home from an airport and noticed the temperature reading was going up and down - almost to the red mark, then straight down just below the middle of the gauge. It did that quite a lot. Could the temperate gauge and engine light (both haven't happened at the same time) be glitches? I really don't have a lot of spare money, but if the consensus is that my car could be a death trap, I'll find a way to afford a garage. I'd personally love to get rid of the car but can't afford a replacement yet. Thank you for your thoughts.
  14. So here is the situation with my car - I am not sure if it is normal or not, so wondering what other people experience. On a cold day (< 10C outside temperature), if I am driving in my car with the recirculation ON, and the temperature dial set to the coldest, and the fan ON (but A/C switched OFF), it begins blow warm/hot air within 10 minutes or less (although it initially starts blowing cold air). If I then turn the temperature dial to the middle, it makes no difference to the temperature of the air being blown out of the vents. Anyone know why this is the case??
  15. darkkn1ght

    Noisy Fan Blower

    My fan blower makes a loud noise intermittently and slows down. It usually happens when I first start the car, though this could be coincidence as it slows down whilst driving on numerous occassions though not all the time. if I put the blower on there is a loud noise from the fan/motor behind the glovebox.. I investigated this by getting behind the glovebox and taking the motor out thinking something may be trapped inside. However there were no leaves or anything in there and no signs of the motor rubbing or catching on anything. I ran the fan whilst holding it outside of its 'enclosure' and the noise disappears, when I put it back in its place the noise appeared again. I checked the pollen/cabin filter to see if that was causing the problem, however when I removed it and turn the blower on the noise was still there. When the noise appears the fan slows down and blows much less air out of the vents almost like the motor is jammed. I can see this happening through the gap where the pollen filter was, but it doesn't appear to be catching on anything, the motor seems to slow down for no reason and the loud noise appears. The strange thing is when the fan unit is taken out of the enclosure there is no noise and it blows normally but when back in its place the slow down and noise appears. Could it be some kind of loss of power to the fan unit? I have oiled the motor on the fan and it has made no difference. I don't understand why it's only noisy intermittenttly and only when it's in it's enclosure. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  16. My heater stopped working on 1,2 & 3 many years ago. Instead of sorting the issue I just used it on number 4 for a good 2 years until that decided to pack up as well. before it all packed up its worth noting that the blower made s noise as if it just needed oiling s little however I now think it may be more. yesterday I replaced the heater fan transistor expecting to regain use of 1, 2, 3 and 4 speeds. However nothing at all, it doesn't work at all, does anyone have any ideas here. I've followed and inspected all the wires and they all look good. im a total novice with cars so I'm just guessing here but does anyone thing the fan blower needs replacing or am I barking up the wrong tree here? I'd hate to buy that of its not needed as its £169 for a uni part. thanks for reading, I appreciate all help!
  17. elchorro89

    Heater blower (puzzled)

    My heater stopped working on 1,2 & 3 many years ago. Instead of sorting the issue I just used it on number 4 for a good 2 years until that decided to pack up as well. before it all packed up its worth noting that the blower made s noise as if it just needed oiling s little however I now think it may be more. yesterday I replaced the heater fan transistor expecting to regain use of 1, 2, 3 and 4 speeds. However nothing at all, it doesn't work at all, does anyone have any ideas here. I've followed and inspected all the wires and they all look good. im a total novice with cars so I'm just guessing here but does anyone thing the fan blower needs replacing or am I barking up the wrong tree here? I'd hate to buy that of its not needed as its £169 for a uni part. thanks jay
  18. I have a 2012 Ford Fiesta 1.4 diesel I've been having an issue where I can take my car on a 5 minute drive, which isn't strenuous on the engine at all. The fan keeps coming on and causing my car to have no power or causing the car to shudder when at 30-40mph. I have had a full service on the car had the coolant pipe changed, had the thermostat sensor changed on the engine and still no fix. I'm worried the engine may blow up as I need to give more revs to get the car to pull off the line. When exiting the car you can smell burning. If I let the car sit for 10-20 minutes the fan eventually turns off and power is restored. I'm quite literally at my lowest right now with the car and need some serious advice. The oil levels are fine, my coolant is at max. I've tried showing mechanics the issue, but they can't really see any issues with the car which would cause this.
  19. Afternoon, Ford fiesta 1.4 tdci (59) Blowers have gradually slowed day after day until they stopped working all together the other day on every setting. Having read a few similar posts, thought it could be the heater resistor. Changed that, nothing happened. Read another that it could be the pollen filter, changed that, nothing happened. Come to the conclusion that the blower motor is knackered and needs changing. I can get one from the scrappy, Only problem is I cannot for the life of me find out where the bugger is! YouTube - nothing Blueprint guides - nothing Need to try and get it done because it's &#33;Removed&#33; cold! And it's getting to the stage where the condensation is so bad the inside of frozen as well as the outside. Cheers!
  20. Hi, I have recently purchased a 2011 Ford Fiesta Zetec. The other night I was sat in some traffic which was moving every 5 minutes or so, or rolling forward. My temperature light came on but I did not hear my engine fan come on? The light only went out once I got moving again doing normal speed (30mph). While cleaning my car today I turnt the engine on and let it run to see if it would come on again - I had it running for at least 30-40 minutes - yet the light never come on, but neither did the fan. ***Please help!*** Could it of been a one off thing? Does the car temp need to be a certain level before the fan comes on? Could my fan simply just not be working? If so, how can I resolve this? Kind Regards, Ben
  21. D3ano0

    1998 Escort

    Hello good people of FOC, This is my first post on your forums since I have just inherited my Granddad's 1998 Escort, I'm hoping that you guys will be able to assist me over the next year or two that I plan on owning this car :) I saved the poor car from meeting the scrap heap as my granddad managed to blow the head gasket and took it upon myself to fix it. After a few weekends of work I managed to get it all fixed and running again, but there is still a problem. The radiator fan isn't kicking in when the temp picks up, which is probably the cause of the blown gasket. I have found that the fan is still functional by shorting the wires to the fan switch and therefore blame the fan switch itself. Now, the switch looks new.. which means that it may not be a Ford part and therefore may not be rated to the correct temperature as the original switch. The switch is rated at 100-95°C for low fan speed and 110-105°C for high. I want to know what temperatures the switch is meant to operate on an original part. If there are any MK VII owners out there can you please help me out by checking yours? Should I buy a lower temp rating to help prevent overheating? Thanks in advance
  22. Hi, I'm a new member here, and fairly unaccustomed to forum sites, so apologies if I've posted this in the wrong place etc, but I am at my wits end trying to figure out what's wrong with my car and figured I'd seek out help from the experts :) I've got a streetka 1.6 duratec and recently its been giving me a lot of trouble. About 6 weeks ago, as I was driving to work, I noticed steam coming from the bonnet and a familiar coolant smell and so I stopped the car and noticed the thermostat housing had broken and was leaking all the coolant out. As it was a small leak, I let the car cool and limped it to a garage 2 miles away after topping it up with water (I had no breakdown cover) and the garage replaced the faulty thermostat housing, but advised that the cooling system was pressurising, which could mean other problems. From this point, I noticed that the heaters in the car were intermittent in supplying hot air, when the temp dial was set to hot. Now, just over a month later, driving along, I notice steam again, and the coolant smell and this time the leak was bigger than before - the pipes that lead into and out of the heater control valve had somehow become brittle and snapped off. I stopped immediately and called the AA who did a temp repair to get me to the garage - they bypassed the control valve and topped me up with water. Upon the AA patrol leaving, and me heading toward a garage, I noticed it struggled to reach 40mph on the dual carriageway and was essentially misfiring badly. Again, I limped it to the garage who replaced the heater control valve with a euro car parts item and replaced the coil pack, which has for now cured the misfire. Why the misfire/coilpack issue happened just as the coolant issue happened, I don't know, maybe this is related? Again, the cooling system was pressurising for ages before my mechanic said he managed to get it to settle and he said drive it a few days with just water in to see how it gets on and if its okay, we'll drain and refill with antifreeze. The past few days, I've done just that and it seems fine - except the heaters now would only blow cold air regardless of heat setting! I thought it was maybe the heater switch control panel, so I borrowed an old switch from a 1.3 ka and plugged it in to check if this was the case - and still cold air. I replaced my old heater control panel in the car and the next day, somehow all I get now is hot air! What is going on with this car? I'm worried about the next time something blows on this thing now and don't feel assured of taking it on a long journey. On a side note, since I've owned the car, the fan always seems to kick in early and then stays constantly on, even in cold weather. The temp light never comes on, which leads me to think that the car isn't overheating. It has only come on once, which is the first incident when the thermostat housing went. Sorry for the long essay, I thought it best to comprehensive about the problem. Any help is appreciated guys! Aman
  23. On Saturday October 18th a light came on dashboard when I was driving a short distance and the air conditioning which was on did not work temporarily. It would not cool down, Then it started to work again. I looked at the engine with the motor running and it seemed there was a strange noise. A local mechanic tried to ocate problem using sensors, thinking it was an electrical fault. But he could not fix the problem. He thinks it is the cooling system. I called local Ford dealer (car is 2009 and out of warranty) who said over the phone, "that does not usually happen with Ford Fiestas". Anyway it is booked in. I am now worried that this is going to be something big and expensive to repair. Any thoughts? I am completely dependent on this car for work and drive 40 miles there and back a day. There is no alternative transport such as trains to get to my work. Rosie
  24. snailspace171

    Please Help!

    Hi I'm new on here, and I really hope somebody can help me. Basically, I've got a 2008 (old shape) Mk6 Fiesta, ztec climate, 1.25. Anyway, last week I started having a problem where I would turn the dial to move the fan / heater blower direction to the windscreen, feet, face, etc, and it would just click and not actually change. it works some of the time and just gets stuck then. So I investigated, unfortunately its not the springy cable thing that's at fault. I traced it back, and there's a white cog... which connects to a black cog... that has somehow gotten damaged. please see the photo. its the black cog on the left. does anyone know how I can replace this cog? what is the part called that it goes into? Ive been told I might need to replace the whole entire part... but I've got no idea what the part is called, I've googled until I'm blue in the face! Anyone with any idea about this I'll be so grateful for any advice! thanks.
  25. gav2085

    Fan Problems On Mk 1 Focus

    Hi guys, Just had a lot spent on my focus. I am still having problems with the fan kicking happens when the fan setting on the knob is on the windows setting (all the way to the right) it also happens when it is sat on the drive idle, but more recently when I have the A/C on. I actually counted how long and the fan kicks in every 15 seconds. Its more embarrassing than anything. I don't know much about cars but have been searching the net and told it could be a problem with a sensor on top of the engine? Any truth in that? I would be very grateful for any help possible. Many Thanks, Gavin.