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Found 65 results

  1. Like a lot of people it seems, I had trouble with the radiator/cooling fan not operating on my S Max. Presumably this also applies to the Galaxy mk3 and the Mondeo. I have now fixed the problem and thought it would be helpful to share what I know as there is little information that I found when searching the internet, some of which is incorrect. I am an electronics/software engineer by trade and so for my own curiosity as much as anything I wanted to find out how the fan operates..... Attached to the cooling fan housing is a speed controller in a small metal box. Some forum posts refer to this as a relay box, which is incorrect. It is driven by a PWM signal - to those who don't know what that is, it is a continuous series of pulses that change width dependant on the speed required. There are three wires going to the fan controller, a permanent 12V feed (Red), a ground (Black) and a pink wire. The pink wire is the control (PWM) wire. There are two wires that come out of the other end of the speed controller and connect to the fan. The powertrain control module (PCM) in the wheel arch drives the PWM signal on the pink wire. So how do you tell if the fan should be on? The signal on the pink wire appears to be an open-collector drive - a bit technical but basically means that you probably won’t be able to measure a signal unless it is plugged in to the fan speed controller at the time. This is also how the PCM detects a fan fault. The speed controller has an internal pull-up resistor between the pink wire and 12V (Measures about 2700 ohms). When the fan is connected, the PCM module can see the 12V on the pink wire, so when the fan is disconnected, the 12V disappears from the pink wire and the PCM can detect a fault. If you have a voltmeter - when connected between ground and the pink wire you should see 12V (or whatever the battery voltage is) when the fan is off and a lower voltage when the fan is on. The actual voltage will depend on how fast the fan should be going and the type of voltmeter but it will probably be around 4V at full speed. I believe there are two ways to force the fan to come on. The first is to disconnect the engine temperature sensor - however I did not try this as I was not sure where it was. The second method (that I used) is to turn the aircon on full - when the aircon is on the cooling fan should come on full speed. This will only happen though when the engine is running as the aircon pump has to be engaged. If you just want to test the fan itself works, you can disconnect the 2 pin connector from the output of the fan controller and connect them to 12V and GND. I did this by also removing the 3 pin connector and using the red and black connections on their to link across to the fan connector. So what was wrong with my fan ? I had what appears to be a common problem of the pink control wire being broken/corroded in the wiring loom. The following is a description of a right hand drive, I don't know if the engine layout is different for a LHD. The PCM module is located in the passenger (near) side wheel arch. You need to remove the wheel and arch liner to get at it (Mine has the protective cover over the connectors with a shear bolt which I don't have tools to remove). You don’t have to take the wheel/liner off but I found it gave me better access to the loom. The wiring loom from the PCM goes through the arch and at about 6 inches in to the engine bay (pretty much under the bottom radiator hose) part of the loom goes up to the top. This bit of the loom is cable tied to the inner wing. This contains the pink control wire which then goes across to the fan controller. My pink wire was broken/corroded at the point the loom separates in the bottom of the bay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that the cable firstly bends to the left and then is bent back on itself to go the wheel arch and taped up so that there is too tight a bend in the wire. The second reason is that this join is below the washer fluid bottle and water dribbles down into the join which over time corrodes the wire. What I learnt when fixing the problem: It is much easier to access from the bottom of the engine bay. I started trying to un-tape the loom from the top (After removing the air filter box). After removing the wheel arch liner, I discovered it was much easier to access from the bottom and removing the liner gives you more room to manoeuvre your arms. You will have to remove a fair amount of tape and some conduit from the loom to work out which wire it is but there are only a couple of pink wires in that part of the loom and I think only one that has a tight bend. I cut out the bent/corroded piece of wire and replaced it. I have read on some forums that any fault codes need to be reset before the fan will work again. I didn’t reset my code (P145C, Fan System Component A) and it worked anyway. The attached pictures show 1) A picture of the PWM signal on the pink wire viewed on an oscilloscope. This is with the fan full on. 2) a picture of the wiring loom from above after removing tape/conduit - This taken with the air intake box removed. 3) The small section of wire that I removed and the break/corrosion in the middle 4) A view of the PCM module inside the wheel arch with the liner removed 5) A picture of the wiring loom from below with the pink wire cut out Hopefully all of this info will be useful to someone……
  2. Car has just failed its MOT as the fog lamp switch tell-tale wasn't showing. Local non-Ford garage doing the test have traced to a faulty instrument cluster - shorting across back of instrument panel (having used them for years I trust them implicitly). Part is in excess of £200 plus fitting and reprogramming . As car isn't old and has only done 6500 miles I'm not very happy - have had cars with massive mileage sail through MOTs. Contacted local Ford garage regarding fit for purpose out of warranty claim and they want £99 + VAT for their own diagnostic test - worse still they can't look at the car until the end of this month, which is when the MOT expires! Am going to try and speak to someone face to face to try and speed things up but would be interested to know if anyone else has had similar problems or whether this is a common Ka fault.
  3. Hi All Can anyone help me please? My central console has given up the ghost and I'm not sure why... I left my car parked one day in the morning with everything working fine. Then when I went to go home in the evening it just hasn't worked and hasn't since! Thanks
  4. CristianG

    System Engine Failure

    Hi, Yesterday while driving home a flashing cog with an exclamation mark appeared on my dashboard. It's been on since - haven't noticed any decrease in performance but i haven't revved the car over 2500 while driving afterward. Not sure what this could be about - the light showed up shortly after a gear shift but that might just have been a coincidence. I have a ford fiesta 2007 diesel 1.4. i ordered a odb2 bluetooth to diagnose it should arrive tomorrow - any advice on what i should do until i get to the garage on Saturday? Thank you, Cristian
  5. Hi all. Hoping someone may be able to help with an indication issue on my 07 KA. 90% of the time it works perfectly fine but for the other 10% of the time it either stops working completely or works much slower than usual. Took it to a garage they quoted £300. 😐 obviously I'll get a second opinion on that !!! Hoping someone may have a remedy!! thanks In advance.
  6. Hi all, My 2006 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi came up with an engine systems failure message today just coming off of a dual carriageway (70mph) accompanied by a red light next to the trip computer. I think it went into limp mode (severly reduced power, unwiling to rev much), so not good when you live at the top of a hill! Two other times when starting the car it has briefly displayed an error message (once it said "steering assist failure", and yesterday it came up with the same engine systems failure message"). Both times I have restarted the car and it disappeared. The car is a 2006 on an 06 plate, and has currently done 73500 miles. I bought it last may at 65000 miles, and it had a service just before I bought it. As it had just turned 6 years old/65000 miles, I'm presuming the DPF would have been changed then? Does anyone have any idea what's wrong? Thanks in advance, Minnis
  7. Evening All, wondered if anyone could give me some advice or point me in the right direction. I had a power steering leak which had leaked everywhere and into the alternator, I fixed the leak. The battery warning light came on only when there is a load on i.e. Headlights. The light would come on for about 5mins disappear for 10 mins and then come back on. i checked across battery terminals with a multimeter with engine off and it read 12.8V engine on the voltage did not change. Checked output voltage from alternator and it was about 11.5V. i thought it could be the alternator, so I bought new alternator. I also fitted new battery and belt while I as there. All was ok for around a day and then the problems began to start again. I have checked the wires from the plug as far as I can I can't see any signs of a break or corrosion. Anyone have any ideas?? car is fiesta 2007 1.4 tdci
  8. Hi My name is Richard I bought a 2005 mondeo st tdci a few months ago. It worked perfectly until.... In the winter the battery kept playing up(been off the road for 6 months now), it would be fine 1 day and would need a jump start the next. I was given a work vehicle and I probably drove my car 100 miles in 2 months, over a few days. So anyways, I ended up having to drive to work for a couple of weeks, it was OK for the first week, then the second week there was problem starting in the morning. I jump started it, got it to work, left it for 6 hours, got back, I tried to start and there was nothing. The result, I thought was a dead battery, so I replaced it. After changing it, it was still doing the same thing. It wouldn't turn over, the new battery is in good condition so it couldnt be that. At this time I noticed the immobiliser light would flash continually, suggesting that the key wasn't working anymore. I wouldnt accept it So I thought it could be the starter motor, tried arcing the connection and the starter works perfectly, turning over the engine no problem, So it couldnt be that. I got a mechanica to look at it, he plugged it in and looked for the key, all he could find was "low voltage errors", this was with the newest snap on computer. In the end he did his best but couldn't figure it out. Nor would he be able to reprogram a key. So still going with the idea of it being a key/immobiliser problem I got an auto locksmith out to reprogram the key, he did it straight away with no problems. But it still wouldn't turn over. Now the immobiliser light stays solid and after a minute it flashes 2 times then once, I looked this up and it is a fault code meaning that there is only 1 key programmed, apparently there should be 3. The dash lights up as it should, the starter motor relay clicks, and the starter motor works and turns over the engine from arcing the connection. The only difference is the immobiliser light. I would find it slightly convenient that an earth or something came loose specifically when the battery dies and wipes the keys. So I totally avoided that option. I also tried leaving the ignition on, and arcing the starter, it turned over but didn't start. So my question is, do I need to get more keys and get them programmed for it to start, or is there another issue which I am missing? Thanks Any help will be massively appreciated. Richard.
  9. Dear all,Hello I'm after some help if possible. I have a MK1 2004 C max 1.6 petrol and I've been having intermittent problems with starting. It seems to happen more when I've used it on several short journeys into town during the day. It starts fine and then after a few stop and starts it won't fire and takes a good couple of minutes to get going. No real smell of petrol present. So far I've serviced the car, changed plugs, change coil pack and leads for a used tested part, changed T Map sensor, cleaned throttle body and cleared the PCM. It went okay for around a week but problem started again. I've used Forscan to identify the problem and the only fault code is U9100-20I've read this may be a communication problem caused by the instrument cluster / dash but I can't see how this would effect the car starting. Any help would really be appreciated. Many thanks.
  10. Info on the problem. - 2008 Ford Focus 1.6 Style - Auto - 30,000 Miles Short version of what’s wrong with the car and important notes: - Mostly heat related starting problem - The car drives perfectly - There is no injector pulse when fault is occurring, the most important info here is wiggling the wiring harness WILL get the car to start when the car is NOT hot, however when the engine has warmed to normal operating temp wiggling wires will not have any affect which I’m guessing is due to thermal expansion. - ECU has been swapped out with another new one and problem persisted. - Disconnecting the ECT sensor will get the car to start almost 99% reliably. - ECT sensor has been replaced. - Crank sensor has been replaced. - No fault codes ever registered. I have been trying to trace the problem through the wiring harness but it’s proven to be too difficult. The current process I’m using to find the problem is to investigate all sensors and their circuits that have anything to do with fuel injection, the only problem is that I do not have a large knowledge base when it comes to cars. I am wondering if you guys can help me and please be so kind to tell me what sensors you know to affect fuel injection and if you’ve ever heard of such a problem before or know of anything that could help. I have a scanning tool and have been inspecting how certain sensors work and everything seems to be fine (voltages .etc) to my knowledge which again isn’t vast. I have had a friend bridge the whole ECT sensor circuit to eliminate it and sure enough the problem is not regarding the ECT circuit. I’m getting close to having to give up a perfectly good car all because of some stupid wiring problem. Thank you for any help, it is much appreciated.
  11. tried to make as short and to the point as possible bare with please 😜 I have been having a few problems with my 06 plate 1.6 focus zetec, the much talked about engine system fault error, usually followed by 'reduced acceleration'. The car was booked in to be diagnosed however i decided to take out the cluster and have a bit of a fiddle which seemed to miraculously cure the problem for about a month! However the fault has returned and seems to be slowly getting worse over the last couple of days until today it showed the error and failed to start full stop for an hour and a half (started after that and drove it home). I'm attempting to take the cluster apart and clean the circuit board with a contact cleaner however I can't seem to access the front of the circuit board as compared to the ones I've seen from researching it is back to front in the casing?? I've read to prize the needles off with a spoon and access it that way however it feels to me like it's going to hurt the internals of it. I've attached a few pictures below, all feed is welcome as I am well and truly stumped 😊 Also the very back part of the plastic casing was caked with a dusty black substance, could this be a cause or something to do with it?
  12. Please help I have a Ford Fusion on a 2008 1.6 petrol i can turn the car on if you drive over 1700 revs it either cuts out and stalls or jumps about and then will come up gearbox transmission failure if anyone has any ideas please let me know
  13. Hi Folks, I am very new to this online type of discussions so please forgive any fluffs I make. I am in my Eightieth year and was lucky enough to be come the proud owner of a Kuga Titanium X. I absolutely loved the car and spend my days hillwalking with my trust companion Max. I started to get an Oil change warning after 11,000kms. The vehicle was not due a service for another 4 months so I put it down to a fault. I contacted the garage and was told to drive away until my service due date. I then found that the automatic boot would re-open about 20 seconds after it closed. This has happened on at least a dozen occasions. Unfortunately due to the oil warning on the dash I didn't get the warning telling me that the boot was open. This boot opening has seen the dog jumping out of the vehicle while it is moving. I have returned the vehicle to the garage and they are insisting after almost 3 weeks of testing that it must be human error. My son and daughter have driven the vehicle and the same issue has arisen. I would be really grateful if you folks could share if you have experienced anything similar. I unfortunately cannot drive the vehicle because I'm afraid for my dog, and I'm not in a position to change the vehicle because I have had it adapted for disability purposes. I would like to thank you for taking the time to read my little moan, Kind regards, Jack & Max.
  14. New poster, hoping someone can help a very distressed ford owner!! The EM light has come on and I have a reader which gives me a couple of codes. One was the coil pack which has since been replaced and has prevented an issue I saw before where the car would Rev by itself.. However, I am getting the following codes:P0130P0150U0001P2298P0158All relate to the Oxygen Sensors(s). I had a lambda sensor replaced in November. But looking especially at P0158 it sounds like the Cat converter has failed.... Any ideas.. Hopefully it'll work but I have attached 5 photos confirming all codes.
  15. Ford Focus sport 2007, driving along and all the electrics turn off and the engine shuts down, the windscreen wipers start to slowly go from one side of the windscreen to the other, and the left indicator light flashes. Heaters turn off. Also you are able to start the car again, Anyone any ideas ?
  16. Hi, I have a 2009 Ford fiesta 1.6 diesel Tdci and have a a starting problem for a while now. The issue is that when the car is cool it will start 100% of the time every time even if i go out to it very early in the morning when it is super cold. However once i have driven the car and parked it and left it for anywhere between 10 minutes to an hour the car won't start or might take 6 attempts of turning the key even having to press the gabs pedal down in order for it to start. Taken it to an auto electrician and no fault with wiring, now taken to ford and told ecu not working and going to cost 1600 quid??? i find that hard to believe as the car always starts cold!!! Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks
  17. Hello All Purchased a 2012 1.6 DCI Focus , sometimes when driving it would appear to judder almost like it has a cough and eventually the eml would come on , acceleration would be really slow First few times I took it into the dealership they coldnt find any issues eventually they "found" a code P02E9 , they replaced the MAF sensor but it still judders but no eml comes on Phoned Ford Assist and the AA guy found the following two codes P0234 & P02E09 , he also mentioned that it was probably the turbo wastegate actuator # Have it booked into the dealership for next week , is there anything that I should be checking in the meantime ? Thanks
  18. I have got now several times same issue that Focus 2006 1.8TDCi informs me about Engine System Fault and then Acceleration reduced. This usually within a minute after I start the engine. I replaced the battery already but no help. After cleaning the errors from ECU I can restart the engine and continue driving normally without any issues. Could this be caused by the common instrument cluster issue mentioned in many forums? If so what is the correct (low budget) fix for that? Thanks! When I scan the error codes I will get the lists below Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ U0001: null U0073: null U0121: null U0131: null U0140: null U0155: null U2197: null Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- P0571: Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit U1900: null U2012: null U2200: null End of report. Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ U0001: null U0001: null U0073: null U0073: null U0121: null U0121: null U0131: null U0131: null U0140: null U0155: null U2197: null U2197: null Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- P0571: Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit P1622: null U1900: null U2200: null End of report. Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ U0001: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0073: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0121: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0131: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0140: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U0155: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2197: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- U1900: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2012: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2200: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web U2510: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web End of report.
  19. My 2010 Ford Fusion 1.6 Auto - 16,000 on clock - is currently in the Ford garage (having been transferred from our local garage which lacks diagnostic equipment). A couple of days ago it started to rev hard on starting. As I pulled into traffic, the power just drained away and the car decelerated to just 7mph. A single ( ! ) warning light came up on the dash. I managed to pull out of the traffic and crawled the mile or so to the local garage. As soon as the engine was turned off and then on again, the fault disappeared. Good old Google shows that this is a known problem with newer Focuses and Fiestas, and a wider search reveals that this is the most common problem reported by Fusion owners in the US. The Ford garage has confirmed that this is a common problem with newer Focuses/Fiestas, but Ford have not accepted that it also occurs in Fusions and therefore the adaptation I'm told it will need to remedy the problem is not covered by the Ford Warranty. Any one else had this problem with their Fusion? Has it been resolved? If so, how? Cheers!
  20. First of all, hello, all! I bought a 2004 streetKA yesterday at a bargain price. I was made aware that the central locking only worked with the key in the door. I took the car anyway and decided to get as far as I could before seeking advice...So, here goes! 1 - The key fob communicates with the car. 2 - Pressing the lock button causes the passenger side to lock, then unlock; drivers door remains silent; no lights flash. 3 - the key in the drivers door locks both doors. 4 - the key in passenger door locks the passenger door, then unlocks again. 5 - if I press the lock button on the key fob, whilst simultaneously, manually locking the drivers door causes the lights to flash, as the manual says, to show that the central locking has worked. 6 - if I disconnect the drives door like/trunk wiring and then press lock on the key fob, the lights flash and the passenger door locks. 7 - at no point has the alarm seemed to arm. It has not sounded or given me any indication that it's on. That's as detailed as I have been with diagnostics. Here are my queries: Would this have an affect on the alarm system not arming or am I looking at separate issues? (I've changed fuse 33, still nothing) How do I get the locking motor out of the door and where is it? I'm no electrician but with your guys' help, I might be able to solve the alarm problem! Thanks in advance! Perry
  21. mc3790

    Gearbox!? Help

    Keep getting an intermittent fault light on my dashboard, looks like a 'Cog' symbol with an exclamation mark in the middle of it flashing yellow. Now the owners book says its a gearbox or 'Drivetrain' issue if i turn the engine off and then restart it clears it for a short while. Just wondered if anyone else has come across this or if they know of an easy fix?! Its a fusion 09 1.4 Diesel, Manual box
  22. bill aldworth

    1998 mondeo st24

    my keyfob stopped working a few years ago and I was quite happy to operate with the key. Today the key stopped working and I cannot even lock the doors. Sound advice NEEDED If you require any further pleas for help PLEASE ASK regards Bill
  23. Hi, I'm new to the sight so apologies if this has been discussed before. The orange engine warning light has recently come on whilst driving. There is no loss of performance and the car still drives fine. I've taken the car to my local garage who has plugged in his tester, twice. As soon as he plugs it in the engine light goes our and the fault disappears. There is no record of any fault on his reader so He is at a loss as to what it could be. After driving around normally for a day or so, the light then comes back on again. Any help would be very much appreciated.
  24. Hi, I wonder if any of you might be able to help with this one? I've had a good look through the past posts and haven't seen anything that's quite the same as this. I bought the car second hand in August of last year from my local Ford dealer and starting in October I had an engine fault develop. When accelerating in 6th from about 55/60MPH the car would sometimes hit what I'd describe as a limiter. The revs would climb steadily, and then be dramatically reduced only for them to climb again before being reduced again, this would happen continuously until I reached about 3500 RPM and it leveled out. It doesn't do this every time, but does it most often when the engine is under a small load, I.e going up a long, slight hill. My car has been in and out of the local Ford dealer and they have been unable to recreate the fault despite me having footage of it occurring, to make it even more difficult to diagnose, it doesn't leave behind a fault code! They've updated software but that hasn't helped, have any of you got an idea of what could be happening / how I can get them for repair it? I've got another 2 years of dealer warranty so I may as well make the most of it! Here's some footage of the fault. Cheers, Chris
  25. My 2013 ford fiesta 1L ecoboost's start stop isnt working, the button to turn it on and off just stays illuminated when pressed, you can turn the light off when the ignition is on but as soon as you start the car the light comes on and you cannot turn the light off, and therefor the start stop isnt working. any advice thanks