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Found 1,145 results

  1. ROakley

    Ambient lighting mk3 focus

    Hello all, I have a 2015 Mk3 focus titanium with ambient lighting that is red. i wanted to change this to blue so bought some LED 501 bulbs on eBay that fit the boot fine. Went to the footwell assuming these are the same and have an LED on a small board. Anyone know how to change these to blue? thank you!
  2. So I am ordering a front upper strut brace, do I need to buy mounts? Or will it just bolt straight on? Thank you in advance.
  3. HELP NEEDED! Hey guys interested to see if anyone else has had this experience with the 1.0ltr Eco boost specifically 125bhp model but any others also interested in hearing about. So I picked up my brand new Focus st line 1.0 eco boost this morning, decided to go a run to enjoy my first experience of my new car. Done about 80 odd miles and was on the way back home when I got a sudden warning “low oil pressure” phoned ford and they asked me to bring the car back in to the garage. Where tonight it remains under investigation I had only had 5 hours. Now I think that the car probably should of not been driven to them once I got that warning but it was there instructions to drive it too them so I did. I want to stress this is a brand new car with the miles i put on it today has anybody came across this problem before? The garage let slip that it was thoroughly checked oil levels etc before pick up so I’m at loss to understand what’s happened. I drove the car at max of 55mph today to break the engine in so I know it wasn’t put under any stress by me. look forward to hearing you guys experience or thoughts?
  4. Afternoon all, I'm trying to remove the cylinder head cover/manifold but I cannot find how to loosen off or remove the high pressure fuel pipes from the back of the cylinder head. Loosened off and disconnected from the injectors but I'm a bit lost as to what has the best way to move them out of the way to lift the manifold. Any ideas? Don't want to bend them!
  5. Hey all, I'm looking for details on how difficult it is to retrofit a Satnav to the 2015 Ford Focus. I currently have a Sync 2 8" head unit and find conflicting information online and also from my official ford retailer! Some say it requires an entirely new loom/wiring system where as others state that it may require activation only by a retailer and others specify a new head unit - does anyone have experience with this at all? Thanks in advance
  6. DeesneB

    Really strange boot issue?

    Wonder if anyone can shed some light on what appears to be an episode of the twilight zone? Went to unlock my mk3. Focus this morning via fob and noticed the boot unlocked. After slamming it shut and scratching my head I got in and turned the ignition. Boot unlocked. By this point I was extremely baffled. After work, same thing happened. I then locked car from inside and when i unlocked it to let a passenger in, ole booty unlocked itself again. Several expletives later I was back in the driving seat with the boot wincing from the fury of me closing it. Thought I'd roll the window down for a breather... You guessed it. Boot unlocked. Has anyone else had this issue, or am I losing the plot? I've only had the car a week and a half, so not concerned about it being fixed. It's just so bizzare. I keep hearing Rod Serling narrating my journeys. Any input is greatly appreciated!
  7. Hi all, it's my first time on the forums so bear with me. I recently replaced the PCM, Cluster, halo, and the transponder inside my key with a working, tested and coded kit I bought on ebay from a Ford breaker. When trying to start my car, my immobiliser rapidly flashes and my cluster displays "engine systems fault", and the light soon blinks a 1:6 code indicating a connection issue between the cluster and the PCM. The car refuses to prime or to crank over at all, and I can't read any on-board codes with an ELM327 OBDII scanner connected to my laptop using FORScan, as it fails to connect to the car. I have also tried pressing around the '2' area on the rev counter of the cluster. As the car was originally sent off to a garage to be repaired and was sat there for months, the battery is completely flat so I have to jump the car every single time I want to do something with it. I have checked the connection on the cluster and it's properly seated, while the PCM connector is on as tight as I can get it with the shearing bolt still in place (there's maybe 5-10mm gap between the base and the connector). I have checked all the fuses to check for breaks, and all of them seem to be intact. What I find strange is that despite replacing all the coded parts in my Focus with the kit from ebay, the original fob responds to the car as opposed to the new fob that came with the new parts and that is coded to the new parts. Surely the original fob shouldn't be recognised as the original parts coded to the original fob are all gone? I have no idea what else to try and I've run out of options. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please feel free to write back.
  8. jamema

    compression test

    1.6 tdci dv6c 115🙁 Hi all does anyone know the psi/bar for a compression test. What the reading should be and differences allowance between cylinders. Thanks
  9. Hi all, In a similar style to the MK1 Focus thread I started yesterday I am also looking for common problems on MK2 Focus models. I will also be looking to eventually put together a buyers guide for these models so any feedback you could give would be much appreciated! :) James
  10. Hi, I am new to the forum as I have only just purchased my new 2018 Ford focus vignale. Overall I do love the car, it is gorgeous. However, I am becoming increasingly irritated by unwanted noises.. The first is a wind/whistling noise that is coming through the drivers side window. Most noticeable at high speeds such as on the motorway. The second is related to the B and O sound system. When there is bass heavy songs playing, there is a highly annoying rattle that comes from both the drivers door and the passenger door. This may seem minor, however when you pay for a car with high quality interior and a high end sound system, you do not expect the experience to be contaminated by cheap material rattling or what ever the issue may be. The same goes for the wind noise; when you are paying for a car which prides itself on comfort and luxury in a quite cabin.. it is not quite the case when you constantly have a wind noise blowing in your ear. I was wondering if any other Ford focus or vignale owners have experienced anything similar? And if so did they have any luck resolving the issue. I am yet to receive a reply from Ford themselves or the dealership I purchased the car. Thanks!
  11. ROakley

    FORD Focus Headlight

    Hello all, I have a Ford Focus MK3 titanium with built in DRL in the headlight assembly and want to put in stronger LEDs to the stock version. I have taken this off and cannot seem to find an access point to replace these bulbs which leads me to believe you need to open the housing but there is no clear cut way to do this. Has anyone else been able to or have a guide for this? It seems mad it’s not just a couple of screws as what would happen if a bulb went?!
  12. Have just purchased a 2017 UK spec Focus ST Line. It's the 1.5 TDCi 120PS automatic. Low mileage and via Ford Direct. Can anybody please give a definitive answer on whether this is supposed to have 2 rear foglights or 1? I've previously owned the earlier equivalent (a 2012 Zetec S) and I cannot remember whether this had 2 or 1. I'm pretty sure older models had 1 rear foglight only - on drivers side and reversing light/reflector was on passenger side. This new one has what appears to be 2 foglights but only the driver's side is operating. Cannot decide whether it has a duff or absent bulb or is supposed to only come with the one foglight at the back with the other side a dummy/reflector only. The manual isn't definitive as presumably it covers UK/Europe/USA spec without being definitive on the matter. Does anybody know for certain please ?
  13. DanGersFord

    Focus Bulb Lists

    Hi just thought i'd post a few bulb lists for the focus ive done the same in the fiesta section hopefully to help a few people out when they are looking for which bulbs right for their car. The lists i've posted are correct to the best of my knowledge although if you notice any discrepances please inform me and i will alter the lists accordingly :) Ford Focus (1998-2001) Dipped Beam - 472 (H4) Main Beam - 472 (H4) Front Fog - 448 (H1) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 382 Single Contact Rear Indicator - 382 Single Contact Rear Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 239 Festoon Bulb Interior Light - 265 Festoon Bulb Ford Focus (2001-2004) Dipped Beam - 499 (H7) Main Beam - 448 (H1) Front Fog - 448 (H1) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 239 Festoon Bulb Ford Focus (2004-2007) Dipped Beam - 499 (H7) Main Beam - 448 (H1) Front Fog - 708 (H8) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Brake Light - 380 Double Contact Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 239 Festoon Bulb Ford Focus(2008>) Dipped Beam - 499 (H7) Main Beam - 448 (H1) Front Fog - 708 (H8) Sidelight - 501 Capless Front Indicator - 382 Single Contact Rear Indicator - 581 Indicator Bulb Rear Brake Light - 780 Red Rear Back Light - 780 Red Rear Fog Light - 382 Single Contact Reverse Light - 382 Single Contact Number Plate Light - 501 Capless Interior Light - 501 Capless501
  14. oldrocker72

    Bleeding car

    Hi Everyone new member here, I have a Ford Focus 1.8TDCI or TDDI engine MK1 i say either because even though it has TDCI written all over it when ever i Google parts for it, it comes up with TDDI MK3 Mondeo so it's a bit confusing to say the least, anyway due to my own stupidity i ran out of diesel on Saturday and a friend brought a can to put in the fuel tank, we looked for the bleeder pump didn't find one checked a few things out online and found out it doesn't have one unlike my Shogun and Dexta who both have a bleeder pump, Well i tried starting the car anyway and it did fire back up and i left it running for a few minutes then turned it off to close the diesel cap and now it won't start checked out about bleeding it on a few Youtube channels and found that i need to buy a bleeder kit which i have they also said about filling the fuel pipe and filter up and a few said that the injectors also need to be loosened up to bleed through as well, is this all correct and is there anything i'm missing a friend of my mother in law said that it's the pump that's packed up and i should scrape the piece of junk as it will cost more than the cars worth, Anyway any further advice and help from this forum would be much appreciated as the car has been faultless until my dumbass didn't put more fuel in, oh and if anyone can clarify the engine in the car would be helpful as well it does have a sticker on the rocker cover that says Endura C on it but i do have a picture of this if that would help.
  15. Hey folks. Just had my oil and filter change plus MOT done by Arnold Clark today ( I know... It's my last "free" one with them) and they have noticed there is a recall for my car. Apparently it is not urgent but it does need doing and I am now booked in for it on the 5th Feb. Recall code is "17S09 Recall For 1.6L GTDI Cooling system" The only info I can find on this online is all American. However it seems the risk is the engine can go on fire, which I find a bit weird to be classed as "not urgent". So, is this a thing for this country? Anyone had it done? I've done a search of the forum, but it came back with nothing...
  16. James Metcalfe

    Ford Focus Central Locking

    Hi, I have just purchased a Pre-facelift 3dr Ford Focus Studio. The car comes fitted with central locking throughout by using the key in the drivers or passenger side door. I am wishing to install wireless locking/unlocking for the car. I have ordered a universal wireless locking kit of eBay to install on the car. Please could someone tell me where I could wire it into the car, I need to find the wire for unlocking the car and also locking the car to wire the kit into. I already know how to find 12v live but am stuck with the unlock/lock wires colour and location. Thanks in advance to anybody who can help with this. Once it is fitted I am happy to create a tutorial to help anyone in the future.
  17. Hi everyone, I just bought myself a '08 focus 1.6 tdci 66kw, and I'm very pleased with the car so far. It has 110 000 miles but the engine seems fine except a little blowby from the top, but none from the dipstick, which my local garage says its acceptable for this mileage. Only one thing bothers me, the car seems to hesitate a bit on hard acceleration and seems to be a little low on power in high gear. I recorded a test drive with Forscan and here is what came out: Looks to me that the Waste Gate actuator is moving erratically when the accelerator pedal is pressed and I get a 2sec delay until boost kicks in. Since I don't have a clue how this is supposed to look like could someone please help me and explain whether this is ok or there might be a problem here?? BTW Other than this, car runs fine, very good mileage, no check engine lights and very little smoke from exhaust even on hard acceleration.
  18. Hi Everyone! I'm new here and in desperate need of help. Let me explain the story and hopefully one of you have had this problem or will be able to assist me. I went away last Saturday for a week in Spain, I flew from Gatwick and left my Ford Focus 2010 Zetec, 1.6 Diesel in the long stay car park. I've had this car since March 2018 and had no problems with it what so ever. Usually I drive this car every single day without fail and it will do around 70 miles every day it's driven. Sometimes less (40-50), sometimes more (100+). So it's never been sat for this long since I've had it! I brought it on 52,000 miles and now I'm on 64,000 I think! So, after a week at Gatwick, when I returned to it, I found that I could not unlock it with the key fob only the drivers door while putting the key in the door. This only unlocked the drivers door and not the rest of the car, as due to the battery being dead the central locking didn't work. When I turned the key, there was nothing but clicking coming from under the glove box! No lights on the dashboard no nothing. I tried bump starting it, but it wouldn't come to life at all. It wasn't until I found a guy with some jump leads that we could get the car going again and I did the 100 mile drive back home which it had done previously to being left at Gatwick the previous week. The car had no problems at all on the drive home and I have used it all day today with no problems. I've looked online and can't really find anyone with the same problem! The only one I've seen is that the glove box light stays on. However, I started recording a video on my phone, put it in the glove box and the light goes off as it should when the glove box door is closed. The light also isn't hot so it can't of been on! I took it to Halfords today to see if it's just a problem with my battery. They could not test the battery as their equipment was showing something was draining the battery. However everything was off! Nothing was plugged into the cigarette lighters, interior light was off, key was in my hand. So, I could not get a reading from that. He then advised me that something is draining the battery and because it doesn't get left for a week, it's never caused me a problem. Now it has and it's bothering me as I'm going away for 2 weeks to Australia in December and don't particularly want to come back to a flat battery! My car has a sub woofer fitted which runs a wire straight from the battery to the sub but has an amp wire going to the stereo (the stereo isn't factory) so the sub switches off when the car turns off we also tested this at Halfords that it wasn't the sub by removing the fuse from the subs power cable as it has an inline fuse. I also have a dash cam that I have connected to the fuse box so that it also switches off when I turn the car off and take my key out the ignition. The Halfords technician said that since the dash cam is in a fuse and connected to the ignition it wouldn't be the problem. Other than that, the car is standard and I haven't ever spliced any wires or messed with the factory wiring or anything else in the car for that matter. Can anyone help me diagnose this? Has anyone had this problem before? Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Joshua
  19. Step 1 – obtain a modified ELM327 cable First of all you will need a modified ELM327 cable so that you can begin to activate cruise in your foci. The cable must be equipped with a MS/HS CAN switch and be able to run at a baudrate of 500K. There are a lot on these cables on eBay that claim to run at 500k but don’t (I found out the hard way), I would recommend buying it from a site called James Simpson (link below) as he used quality cables and can guarantee the 500k baudrate. Why is the speed important you may ask? Well, you will need to communicate with the PCM to activate cruise which required a connection speed of 500k, any less and you won’t be able to do it. confirmed 500k modified elm 327 cable Step 2 – obtain ELMconfig software, version 2.10 and 2.17b (links provided) Once you have the two versions downloaded, extract them in separate folders and have them handy so you can access them easily.(two new folders on the desktop is best!) elmconfig 2.10 and 2.17 download Step 3 – installing Cable drivers Before using the cable to connect to your car make sure that you have the required drivers so you don’t run into any unexpected problems. To do this plug the adapter into your laptop ONLY, windows should find the device and install it. Once it’s installed you can start connecting it to your car. Step 4 – setup and connecting to your Foci MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A CHARGED BATTERY!! I would recommend a fully charged battery that can hold its charge while in use for at least 1 Hour! Take your laptop and cable to your Foci, plug the cable into the OBD2 port and your laptop. Now launch ELMconfig 2.17b. Make sure your settings match these shown below: Language: english Driver: FTDI D2xx Device: FT232R.... Baudrate: 500,000 (un-select auto Connection: Focus II / C-MaxI / Kuga I Now the programing begins! Step 1 – Switch in MS-CAN position (left) GEM – Configuration – Page 3 Click “Read from GEM” If “Cruise Control Configuration” it ticked then move to the next step, if not then tick it Click “Write to GEM” Wait for program to write and reboot the GEM Step 2 – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) HEC – Configuration – Page 1 If “Cruise Control Configuration” it ticked then move to the next step, if not then tick it Click “Write to HEC” Wait for program to write and reboot the HEC Step 3a – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Configuration Click “Read from PCM” Make sure “Integrated Speed Control” is ticked Click “Save to file” – save it to a clutter free, easily accessible folder (I recommend desktop) Step 3b – Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Procedures – Page 2 DO NOT CHANGE ANY SETTINGS! Click “Read firmware from PCM to BIN-file” – this takes anything *this bit I struggle to remember but don’t worry it wont ruin your car! Once you click read you might get an option to save the bin file (this might be before or after the reading). If after reading it does not prompt you to save anything then click “Save firmware to BIN-file”, chose the same location where you saved the PCM configuration file. Now close ELMconfig 2.17 and open 2.10 Make sure the settings are the same as used in 2.17 (note the device won’t show its name instead it will just display its com port but this is auto detected) and click open port. Step 3c - Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Information Click “Read” and wait for it to read all the fields. Step 3d - Switch in HS-CAN position (right) PCM – Procedures – Page 2 Click “Load VID-block from file” Here you want to select the PCM configuration file you saved (the one where you ticked integrated speed control) Click “Load firmware from file” Now select the file you saved from reading the PCM to bin operation (the one that took a long time in comparison) Click “Write current firmware in PCM” This will reprogram the PCM, it will take anything from 1 – 10 minutes. You may get an engine malfunction warning appear while reprogramming, do not worry this is normal and happened to me, it because the PCM module is not able to communicate while its being reprogrammed so it shows as an error. DO NOT UNPLUG or STOP to process or you will mess up your PCM. Once its done it will reboot and inform you its complete, now simply close elmconfig and remove the cable, start your engine and take your foci out for a drive and try cruise – IT will work !!!
  20. What are the best tyres for my 67 plate Focus ST MK3.5? The tread on my OEM goodyear eagle F1s (Asymmetric 3s? 235/40/R18) are getting low (only 6500 miles) and I'm wondering if there are any better tyres out there. i have looked on the website and looked at various tyre tests such as this one: . From what I've been reading online, the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 are the best rated tyres around, but I'm also interested in the Kumho ecsta hs5ss, and the falken Azenis FK510's as they have outperformed the F1s in the tests I've seen and seem to be a good price. So the questions are: has anyone had experience with these tyres? and which is the best for me to get?
  21. Hello, I recently bought a Focus MK2.5 2008 Duratec HE 1.8 petrol and so far I'm loving it... well apart from an annoying noise I've been getting when I accelerate suddenly (Quickly) in 2nd or 3rd gear. It doesn't do it every time and never seems to do it until the engine has warmed up. It also only lasts maybe 2-5 seconds. I've recently changed my PCV valve, which was a pretty stressful day, but I can't think of this being the reason (Unless someone has any ideas). I was thinking of a kink in the PCV Valve hose but I'm not getting any telltale signs. I had the car checked by a garage (externally), but they couldn't spot any issues and of course they cannot replicate the issue. 😞 I found a video of someone having the same issue albeit a lot worse then mine. I've cropped the video and included it in the thread. They're running a MK2 Focus 2.0 2006 petrol engine. I've tried unplugging the swirl flaps airline, but it doesn't stop it so I guess that rules them out. Does anyone have any ideas, it's driving me nuts. I'm driving over 300 miles next month to wales so I'm getting worried! Please any help would be great! Thanks 🙂
  22. Hi, I've code read my vehicle with the ForScan software and its apparent I have a ESP fault on the system. I dont know the codes but will post if it helps anyone. Its basically coming up saying the sensor inside the pump is gone? Online this is said to be a common fault. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem, how they rectified it and costs? Thanks guys and girls.
  23. Focus 2015 Titanium X Heated Steering Wheel not working Anyone have any suggestions? My Heated Steering Wheel is not working. I press the button which illuminates briefly then goes off. Wheel doesn't heat up. Any ideas? GK
  24. Hi all! About 2 weeks ago I picked up my brand new 1.0 Ecoboost ST Line X Focus. Everything on her runs beautifully, but my pet peeve is i cant get the Ford Pass app to connect. I put the VIN in it, it brings up my car, and then it says i have to wait for a message to pop up on the SYNC 3 system, but nothing comes up. My app currently just says "activation pending" I've set up the wifi hotspot and it works absolutely fine so I know its not that. I've deleted the car off my phone, deleted the app too, tried to set it up again and the same happens. I've even done a master reset of the sync system. Ive rang the ford pass help line and they don't know whats wrong. Wondering if anybody else has had a similar issue and if they have any ideas on how to resolve it!
  25. Hi there, I've got 2.5A drain on my battery but this drops by 2A when I remove the fuse to the start/stop module. I've heard rumours of an issue with the BCM and getting this re-flashed. Anyone any ideas or comments? Thanks Ian