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Found 359 results

  1. PGHSE9

    A worrying problem

    Hi, Sorry to make my first post a request for help (if I'm not allowed to do this, please feel free to move/delete etc). I bought a second hand 58 reg Zetec Blue Fiesta a couple of months ago. As it stands, it's got a smidgen over 35000 miles on the clock. Service done about 2000 miles ago, MOT until September. It had been brilliant, until just over a week ago when the battery light would turn itself on for about a minute, then off for quite a bit, then on briefly, then off for quite a bit, then on get the idea. Checked with garage, got new alternator fitted. No big deal. Anyway, today I was driving along, and I hear a loud rattling/knocking sound. It sounded like it was coming from under the car on the driver's side. I pull over, call the garage, get it booked in for Monday (the earliest it can be done) go home, have to go out again to pick up my partner from work, all the while there's this noise. It kinda sounds like a drop link or something has gone, but much louder. It's pretty constant (it's there when the car is idling, as well as when it's moving), and I'm just a bit worried. I have no idea what it is - as I said, it came on very suddenly. I have no idea if something happened when I had the alternator fixed. I'm a bit worried that it might be something with the engine (it sounds like it's from under the car, but that may not be the case), but the oil seemed to be more than ok when I checked it a couple of weeks back and, for what it's worth, the oil engine light hasn't come on. I just wondered if anyone might have any idea what it might be? I'm not going to be driving it until I have to take it to the garage, at any rate. Thanks for your time and help!
  2. Hi All, Needing your advice please and to see if anyone else has come across similar issues. I recently purchased a new Focus Vignale that comes with the Acitve Park Assist option. Absolutely love the car but unfortunately it has been in the garage twice already as the Active Park Assist keeps becoming unresponsive meaning the button stops working. The garage are saying it is a known fault but with no known fix as of yet and something that Ford are working on. Has anyone else come across this issue? What would you suggest? I love the car and want to keep it but have also been sold a faulty product at the end of the day and want to ensure I am not left with this after the warranty expires should they not have fixed the issue before hand!! Kind Regards Chris
  3. Hornet83

    Fuel injectors

    Hi, I have a ford fiesta 1.5 tdci 2013. My car cutout whilst driving along the motorway today. After looking in the engine bay I saw alot of fuel built up around the fuel injectors. I think it might be the seals around the injectors and just wanted to know if anyone's had a go at replacing them or does anyone think it might be something else that caused the car to cut out. Is it a hard job to change the seals ? Will I need any special tools ?
  4. Hornet83

    Fuel injectors

    Hi, I have a ford fiesta 1.5 tdci 2013. My car cutout whilst driving along the motorway today. After looking in the engine bay I saw alot of fuel built up around the fuel injectors. I think it might be the seals around the injectors and just wanted to know if anyone's had a go at replacing them or does anyone think it might be something else that caused the car to cut out. Is it a hard job to change the seals ? Will I need any special tools ?
  5. I was wondering if anyone could help me at all. I recently hit my bumper reversing in a car park (silly I know), the impact was very minor. All looked well however I noticed when I shift into 3rd or 4th gear, my car begins making a loud droning noise. It also feels less responsive shifting gears, gets chuggy and doesn't seem as powerful. I haven't seen any leaks and there doesn't seem to be any other issues nothing hanging off, at lower speeds runs okay. Does anyone have an idea as to what may have happened? My car is a 2005 Ford Streeka, 38,000 miles. Thank you!
  6. So, guys, I'm 18 years old and I'm going to take my test on the 28th next month and I have started to look at first cars to buy and I was looking at a car that is economical on fuel as I will be travelling to work and back every day around 20 miles I have been looking on auto trader and my price range is around 3-6.5 k to spend on a car and I have seen the Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost Zetec S Black Edition (s/s) 3dr however the ones I have seen are around 5990 - 6200 and they have CAT N and CAT S and I was wondering if it is worth buying a CAT N or CAT S car as one has 9k miles and one has 22k miles which is prettly low and yeah I will be willing to pay the £200 to get the car checked out by AA or RAC if I were to buy it all the cars are from a Trader Adverts as I am new to this I would be greatful if you guys could give me some advice, also any other reccomendations on cars to buy as a first car that is economical and enjoying to drive. Also how long do fiesta engines last for as in millage, I was thinking about going to look at the CAT N car and do you guys think that I can bring the price of the car down if I am to haggle with the dealer, if so how low is a reasonable price to ask for. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to read and reply much appreciated. S&price-from=2000&price-to=7000&seller-type=trade&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&postcode=wa159sq&maximum-badge-engine-size=1.0&colour=Black&radius=1500&keywords=alloy wheels&page=1 - CAT S/22k Miles S&price-from=2000&price-to=7000&seller-type=trade&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&postcode=wa159sq&maximum-badge-engine-size=1.0&colour=Black&radius=1500&keywords=alloy wheels&page=1 - CAT S/9k Miles S&price-from=2000&price-to=7000&seller-type=trade&onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&postcode=wa159sq&maximum-badge-engine-size=1.0&colour=Black&radius=1500&keywords=alloy wheels&page=1 -CAT N/20K Miles
  7. Hi guys, Sorry if this isn't the correct place to post. I'm having the worst luck at the minute, I've brought a MK4 mondeo 2009 from Copart which was sold to them by an ex-finance company. The condition that the car was sold as on copart was runs and drives. So on the day I pick the car up It seemed the battery was dead, I thought nothing of it, its been sitting around a couple months I'll take it home give it a jump and everything should be alright. I tried jumping the car, all that happens is the ignition comes on windows open etc car wont start. After contacting the finance company that sold the asking if they had the immoboliser, they said they had an engineer come out but the black box had already been removed. This engineer was from a third party company and didn't bother rewiring by the looks of it, I contacted this company after speaking to the finance company and getting their details. The company said because the box was already removed they wouldn't have done anything. Now I'm left with a car that has had a black box removed and not re-wired for the car to work as normal. I am stressed out as you can imagine. I've been ringing back and forth and not one of the companies want's to take responsibilty and keep passing me on saying to contact the other. I think it will be the case of me having to pay an auto electrician to take a look and it sound's quite costly. I've looked for anything that looks out of the ordanairy and have noticed two plugs with nothing connected in between, these are located in the foot-well and in the compartment with the OBD port. Any help would be really appreicated on either how to deal with the companies or how to resolve the issue. Images of sockets:
  8. DeesneB

    Really strange boot issue?

    Wonder if anyone can shed some light on what appears to be an episode of the twilight zone? Went to unlock my mk3. Focus this morning via fob and noticed the boot unlocked. After slamming it shut and scratching my head I got in and turned the ignition. Boot unlocked. By this point I was extremely baffled. After work, same thing happened. I then locked car from inside and when i unlocked it to let a passenger in, ole booty unlocked itself again. Several expletives later I was back in the driving seat with the boot wincing from the fury of me closing it. Thought I'd roll the window down for a breather... You guessed it. Boot unlocked. Has anyone else had this issue, or am I losing the plot? I've only had the car a week and a half, so not concerned about it being fixed. It's just so bizzare. I keep hearing Rod Serling narrating my journeys. Any input is greatly appreciated!
  9. SJC99


    Hey everyone, I currently own a 2008 Ford fiesta MK6 style, Iv'e been involved in a recent accident and was wondering where the best place would be to find parts? I'm currently looking for a new bonnet, new windscreen, new font bumper, a left headlight, a new (I think it's called a crash-bar, its the metal that goes along the radiator to protect it) and new side wings. The car seems to drive fine and it is just cosmetic damage Is there anywhere recommended I can go to for parts as I really don't want to scrap the car! Any help at all would be greatly appreciated as I am unsure what to do with it!! Its my prized possession!! Thanks
  10. Hello, I just bought a 2018 Ford Fiesta brand new, and I absolutely love it so far. It is the 5speed manual version (North American), and it is a lot of fun. However, I have been noticing a slight sound when I accelerate when first starting the car or a little afterwards. It sounds almost like something is stuck somewhere (like a stick scraping something), but I cannot find anything when I get under the car. I can also almost feel the vibration through the gas pedal, but this might just be my imagination. It only happens for a few moments, but it still worries me. Are these just normal noises for a new car or should I take it in to get looked at? Thank you very much
  11. Hi everyone :) I have a query regarding the MK8 fiesta ST. I've been trying to fit LED bulbs for the last few weeks to no avail :( the new twist mount adapter that holds the H7 dipped bulb in place is stopping any aftermarket LED bulbs from fitting. Has anyone had luck fitting them? Or are their adapters available? I've had a scout about online but can't find anything useful. Thanks in advance!
  12. Hey there everybody, new member here. Just looking for a bit of advice in how to reset the battery sensor on a keyless start mk 5 mondeo titanium. I've seen a few things around the internet saying you turn ignition on (start the car?) , press the rear fog light 5 times and then the hazards 3 times but it doesn't seem to work for me? Anyone got any ideas please? Thank you
  13. Hi Everyone! I'm new here and in desperate need of help. Let me explain the story and hopefully one of you have had this problem or will be able to assist me. I went away last Saturday for a week in Spain, I flew from Gatwick and left my Ford Focus 2010 Zetec, 1.6 Diesel in the long stay car park. I've had this car since March 2018 and had no problems with it what so ever. Usually I drive this car every single day without fail and it will do around 70 miles every day it's driven. Sometimes less (40-50), sometimes more (100+). So it's never been sat for this long since I've had it! I brought it on 52,000 miles and now I'm on 64,000 I think! So, after a week at Gatwick, when I returned to it, I found that I could not unlock it with the key fob only the drivers door while putting the key in the door. This only unlocked the drivers door and not the rest of the car, as due to the battery being dead the central locking didn't work. When I turned the key, there was nothing but clicking coming from under the glove box! No lights on the dashboard no nothing. I tried bump starting it, but it wouldn't come to life at all. It wasn't until I found a guy with some jump leads that we could get the car going again and I did the 100 mile drive back home which it had done previously to being left at Gatwick the previous week. The car had no problems at all on the drive home and I have used it all day today with no problems. I've looked online and can't really find anyone with the same problem! The only one I've seen is that the glove box light stays on. However, I started recording a video on my phone, put it in the glove box and the light goes off as it should when the glove box door is closed. The light also isn't hot so it can't of been on! I took it to Halfords today to see if it's just a problem with my battery. They could not test the battery as their equipment was showing something was draining the battery. However everything was off! Nothing was plugged into the cigarette lighters, interior light was off, key was in my hand. So, I could not get a reading from that. He then advised me that something is draining the battery and because it doesn't get left for a week, it's never caused me a problem. Now it has and it's bothering me as I'm going away for 2 weeks to Australia in December and don't particularly want to come back to a flat battery! My car has a sub woofer fitted which runs a wire straight from the battery to the sub but has an amp wire going to the stereo (the stereo isn't factory) so the sub switches off when the car turns off we also tested this at Halfords that it wasn't the sub by removing the fuse from the subs power cable as it has an inline fuse. I also have a dash cam that I have connected to the fuse box so that it also switches off when I turn the car off and take my key out the ignition. The Halfords technician said that since the dash cam is in a fuse and connected to the ignition it wouldn't be the problem. Other than that, the car is standard and I haven't ever spliced any wires or messed with the factory wiring or anything else in the car for that matter. Can anyone help me diagnose this? Has anyone had this problem before? Any help is greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Joshua
  14. Hello, I recently bought a Focus MK2.5 2008 Duratec HE 1.8 petrol and so far I'm loving it... well apart from an annoying noise I've been getting when I accelerate suddenly (Quickly) in 2nd or 3rd gear. It doesn't do it every time and never seems to do it until the engine has warmed up. It also only lasts maybe 2-5 seconds. I've recently changed my PCV valve, which was a pretty stressful day, but I can't think of this being the reason (Unless someone has any ideas). I was thinking of a kink in the PCV Valve hose but I'm not getting any telltale signs. I had the car checked by a garage (externally), but they couldn't spot any issues and of course they cannot replicate the issue. 😞 I found a video of someone having the same issue albeit a lot worse then mine. I've cropped the video and included it in the thread. They're running a MK2 Focus 2.0 2006 petrol engine. I've tried unplugging the swirl flaps airline, but it doesn't stop it so I guess that rules them out. Does anyone have any ideas, it's driving me nuts. I'm driving over 300 miles next month to wales so I'm getting worried! Please any help would be great! Thanks 🙂
  15. Hi all! About 2 weeks ago I picked up my brand new 1.0 Ecoboost ST Line X Focus. Everything on her runs beautifully, but my pet peeve is i cant get the Ford Pass app to connect. I put the VIN in it, it brings up my car, and then it says i have to wait for a message to pop up on the SYNC 3 system, but nothing comes up. My app currently just says "activation pending" I've set up the wifi hotspot and it works absolutely fine so I know its not that. I've deleted the car off my phone, deleted the app too, tried to set it up again and the same happens. I've even done a master reset of the sync system. Ive rang the ford pass help line and they don't know whats wrong. Wondering if anybody else has had a similar issue and if they have any ideas on how to resolve it!
  16. Hi hows everyone ? Ive got a mark 1 focus in silver it has got collection bodykit on it does anyone no price of these as i dont want the kit anymore
  17. Hello, I have recently bought a (new for me) 2009 Ford Fiesta Zetec from a private seller. It only has the aux port (no USB connection) and when I press the phone icon it comes up with 'MUTE' and a speaker symbol with a cross through it - same for aux. When I plug in my aux cable nothing happens my phone is unable to connect to the car and when I search for the car to sync on Bluetooth no options come up. I was really looking forward to playing my music in this car and having the hands-free option to answer my phone from my steering wheel but I am at a loss. If you could help I would greatly appreciate it. Kind regards, D
  18. Estatelife

    Remap overwriting advice

    Hello, does anyone know if it is possible to run a crackle map as well as a Revo stage 2 map? (Been told it will just overwrite it) Thank you
  19. Hi guys, I'm looking for any help or info please? my Mondeo recently went into limp mode and engine management light was activated. We Checked diagnostics for fault codes, see picture we have installed a new EGR valve also new purge valve and cleared the faults. Then after driving for a short while the engine light came back on, car went back into limp mode and these 3 fault codes are showing again. have any of you had this problem before? Do any of you have any ideas?
  20. I've recently purchased a Ford Fiesta Titanium X with Low profile tyres fitted to it. The wheel is a 205/40R17 Tyre profile. I have had it for less than a month and the wheels have been damaged significantly (sidewall) people have been telling me that if I change the tyre from Low profile to Normal profile it will affect Speedo etc but I can't see any other way to stop the car from damaging the wheels and this is on two of four low profile tyres. Is there anything I can do? I live on an estate which is still being built and there are Low manhole covers which could be causing damage but never had problem on old car? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  21. Most of us are driving around with errors on our car, and we don't even realise it. Mainly because the small niggles don't affect our day to day driving. Focus owners are lucky as they have the "Secret Dash Trick" but what if you don't own a Focus? and you don't have a trip computer? The easiest way for us on the forums to help you, is if you have an "OBD" Scanner - and you may be surprised that they are DIRT cheap! OBD is the cars "On Board Diagnostics" system. If there is an error with your car sensor, or another error that you are either well aware of (or perhaps not). then OBD might just save you £60 minimum diagnostics fee with a dealer, and perhaps a whole lot more in repairs... What is OBD? On Board Diagnostics has been in use for many years, as early as 1996 a lot of cars have it. From 2001 (Petrol) and 2004 (Diesel) the standard of OBDII came in, and all cars after this time will have an OBDII interface that you can use. Not only can OBD be used to diagnose issues, but it also allows you to monitor the likes of efficiency in your car. there are so many applications available that will read the data in different ways, if you want an app for 0-60 with BHP readouts - Torque Pro. If you want an app for your economy usage "Efficiency (Free)" can be your new best friend. Does my car have OBD? The requirement is that an OBDII connection MUST be accessible to the driver within 2 feet of the driver position. The usual location is about knee height and on the right or left side of your knee (depending on the LHD or RHD model you own). Its normally recessed, and running your hand along the dash you will feel it, it may perhaps be hidden under the steering column, behind a panel (look for a removable panel somewhere around the dashboard at knee height) or behind an ashtray. There also tends to be one on the bulkhead of the engine compartment. Mst likely under a cover, so check your fusebox, and you may see it. How do I use OBD? You can buy a universal adapter that will fit any car with an OBD socket. See below links to a couple of types (Bluetooth) and an example USB version. Smartphone Users: Look at your smartphones App Store for a program called "Torque" - this comes in a freeware version and a Paid for version. Torque allows you to scan for and clear down error codes, also clicking the error code can take you to a page where you can see in plain english - what the error means. It allows you to view live data readings and also map out your vehicles data (downloadable to PC). Two types of Bluetooth Adapters for sale on ebay: Laptop Users: You can buy a USB version that will plug into your laptop. they tend to come with drivers and applications that you can use to interact with your car's data. Also, if you purchase a modified ELM 327 cable with a High and Medium speed can bus (click here for more information)then you can use software such as ForScan. This is an excellent piece of software that debugs more than just Ford's but allows you to automatically scan High and Medium speed for errors, view in clear text the errors seen, and reset them in turn. I have used this and find it an excellent piece of free software. Any User: I Forgot when writing this that there is the entirely seperate "standalone" code reader. Its a handheld device that will read the code and control it through a handheld unit, prices for these differ, as little as £10.00 and up to a lot more. You can buy these for an average of £25 - £30 for a relatively branded unit. Which OBD version do I have? OBDII is the current standard but there have been other releases before. The older your car, the older the OBD support, so vehicles around 1996 will be OBD 1 and later vehicles 1.5 or 2. Always contact the seller if you are unsure if the device you are looking to purchase is compatible with your car. Generally speaking, if your car is older than 2004, you will probably have an OBDI device, and not an OBDII device. Again, refer to the seller to identify if this is the correct one for you. Why should I buy into this? Combination of an OBD adapter, and software to accompany it, most of the time will come in under £15. For that money, you have a way to track your cars readings, and check all the error codes. A simple problem with a sensor could cost you as little as £60 to diagnose with a dealer, and then whatever ludicrous labour fee's are applicable to resolve this issue. If you are handy with a spanner, or know someone who is, your first problem resolution will only cost you £15 plus whatever cost for the part, any problems after that you are self diagnosing for free. Providing the members of this forum with error codes means that we can provide you with more accurate details, and suggestions to resolve your problems. Limitations: Please note that when you buy an adapter of this nature, there ARE limitations. These adapters and software combinations cannot diagnose some systems, ABS and Airbag for example, but it can clear there error codes. Will It damage my car? Budget OBDII readers can only ever read data from the engine, and switch the Engine Management Light off - 99.9% of scanners on the market will not damage your car. Be wary of buying from abroad, as these may be cheaper still, but these are the 0.01% that may damage your car. What About Apple? Unfortunately, Apple is an issue for this sort of task. Apple use a hybrid "bluetooth" stack, which although claims to be bluetooth, its not "bluetooth" by the rest of the worlds description, its more "Apple's rewriting of bluetooth". Its generally seen that Bluetooth adapters wont work with Apple, and you may be better off getting a WiFi adapter and connect to this. For apple compatible devices though (Wi-Fi or bluetooth) There's this: that I have heard of. but they do say if you have a bluetooth adapter, to contact support before hand. Alternatively, suggestion is that a code a good tool to use, but again, ensure that they confirm it will work, or at least get refund reassurances. The most expensive I have seen yet (but best reported on) is REV: investment. Summary So that's it - its a cheap, and harmless way to get information from your cars computer. Whether error diagnostics, or to see how much damage you are doing to the environment, or if you just want to brag to your friends about what your current BHP reads at. So, I hope this inspires you! Many who buy an adapter never look back, I have yet to come across a single individual who has regretted buying one. But remember, buy cheap but don't expect the world, but these cheap adapters could be more than enough to dig you out of a hole. If you want to buy something better, there are more than enough tools out there that you can look to upgrade to. Scanguage is an excellent device and there are a lot of other handheld units that could improve the result. If you have any questions, look around the forum, or feel free to send me a PM and I will be happy to help. If there is enough interest, I am sure all of us here will be happy to help you if you need to start a thread. Please remember, the above links are not recommendations, we are not gaining any revenue from advertising them, but I can say that I own two of them and they work fine for me ;)
  22. Casserole


    I was changing the spark plugs on my fiesta, but me being an idiot I over tighten one them and it snapped. How do I get the other part out? Need my car for Friday.
  23. So, recently i purchased a mk6 fiesta, prefacelift. i bought a new rear bumper and want to paint it the same colour as the rest of the car,obviously. Although i just cant seem to find the right colour? i was wondering if anybody could help me out with this? im pretty sure the colour code is '44' and i got a result somewhere for "java blue" which seems to be a pretty close match but upon searching for images of 2005 mk6's in java blue i just am not seeing any other fiesta's the same as mine in this colour, they are all mondeo's and mk5's. i am getting frustrated with not finding the correct colour. am i just going about it a stupid way? any help is greatly appreciated i can post photos of the car and the label where the colour code is if neede, thanks.
  24. Hi everyone, its me again, I really need to get to the bottom of this problem im having while trying to add cruise control to my PCM module. I have followed various guides to do this, but on the last write to the PCM, after its finished im getting this error message " There is a non empty VID block in this PCM module. To write a new VID block. PCM module must be reprogrammed first " My car is a 2010 Focus Zetec S 1.8 duratec petrol My PCM number is 7M51-12A650-VE My PCM type is ESU 411/418( 1.8 125/2.0 145) My firmware is 7M51VE I have successfully added cruise to my GEM and my HEC no problem, i have also switched off the seatbelt warning, my stumbling block is the PCM. I am using a modified ELM cable from Tunnel rat electronics, using chipset, CH340T, im running Elmconfig 0,2,17b running this through a HP laptop running Windows 8,1 I have tried the quick way (just doing the configuration screen) and the longer way (doing the procedures screen as well) this way its taking 78 mins to read the pcm to bin file. Both ways im having the same error message, i have noticed from one guide posted by OldLen on 16th January in the topic." Guide for Focus Mk2/mk2,5 c-max/kuga~Elm 327 cable and Ff2 program" in his guide he said he made a mistake on the PCM programming,he said the first time he did it he didnt click the "Read calibration data only" box. Now i have seen this box on page 2 of the procedures tab, but for some unknown reason its not highlighted, ive also noticed that 0.2.10 version of elmconfig has options to, Read VID block from PCM, Read firmware from PCM to file, Load VID block to file and Load firmware from file These options are on page 2 of procedures. I havnt done anything with version 0.2.10 in case it was out of date or something. I have got two DTC codes after reading the PCM information using 0.2.17b saying:- P1260, 63 P1549,63 If someone can give me some instructions to get past this last obstacle i would be eternally grateful. sorry for the long winded post, but i needed to give as much info as possible. If all else fails can i get this done through Fords using their IDS system. Thanks for your patience guys, Chris (Wilto)
  25. I was trying to fix a badge to my honeycomb grill when suddenly the screw thread dropped down behind the grille. Cannot find it anywhere at all. Should I be worried or will it just drop out never to be seen again. Personally I didnt feel it necessary to remove the grille to try and fish it out as its only dropped down in front of the intercooler. Just want to see what anyone else thinks I should do! Thanks fellas, and ladies!