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Found 17 results

  1. Good evening, First time here! I have a 2008 Ford Fiesta Style Climate which has done approx. 78,000 miles. Not long after I brought it, it started 'chugging' whilst driving and idling and eventually the amber 'cog' light came on on the dashboard, the car went into limp mode and I had to get towed home. It has since been to the garage where is flagged up injector 2 to be faulty. So a new injector later and a few weeks of driving it, the same thing happened again, flagging up injector 2 again. Back to the garage it went where is has been since May (yes, really). He's a good mechanic whom we trust so not worried about getting taken advantage of. After speaking to him now, he has had the whole dashboard and computer, keys and everything sent off for testing and subsequently fixing. Now the car does seem better as long as you warm it up before going on a journey (which we tend to do anyway out of habit i.e. not taking off straight away and flooring it!) however there is still something not quite right with it and it still does 'chug' every now and then. Our mechanic now seems to think that it is something wrong electrically as it went through the MOT absolutely fine and flew through emissions so indicates that the engine and everything is fine. However, looking for the electrical fault it like looking for a needle in a haystack. Does anyone on here have any experience with this issue or have any ideas as to what it could be?! Some people have talked about similar problems but have not posted back with any solutions. Someone suggested the wiring loom but never posted back as to whether it worked or not or a Forscan reset. Any help would be much appreciated! ETC
  2. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would. TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help? Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  3. Hi The picture shows the dimly illuminated two lights. Very intermittent. Trying to sell car and blocking sale. When in fault, lights appear as soon as i press unlock on the key fob. HELP!!!
  4. Hi all newbie here and looking for some advice. Just driven my car to Asda all fine. I got my bags out the boot went shopping and put that in the boot. I go to leave Asda and run rear wiper comes on... I check to make sure the wiper switch is in the off position, which it is, so I flicked it on and off again and the wiper stopped where ever I switched it back to off. In this case it stopped in the middle of the rear windscreen. If I switch it on it just keeps going and won't stop. I've tried to have a look to see if maybe it's the fuses but the owner manual doesn't list fuses for the wipers (as far as I can see). My local garage is an evans halshaw place and they've tried to rip me off many a time so don't want to go there. What's the likely cause or can anyone suggest a decent place for me to take it too? much appreciated for all responses!
  5. Info on the problem. - 2008 Ford Focus 1.6 Style - Auto - 30,000 Miles Short version of what’s wrong with the car and important notes: - Mostly heat related starting problem - The car drives perfectly - There is no injector pulse when fault is occurring, the most important info here is wiggling the wiring harness WILL get the car to start when the car is NOT hot, however when the engine has warmed to normal operating temp wiggling wires will not have any affect which I’m guessing is due to thermal expansion. - ECU has been swapped out with another new one and problem persisted. - Disconnecting the ECT sensor will get the car to start almost 99% reliably. - ECT sensor has been replaced. - Crank sensor has been replaced. - No fault codes ever registered. I have been trying to trace the problem through the wiring harness but it’s proven to be too difficult. The current process I’m using to find the problem is to investigate all sensors and their circuits that have anything to do with fuel injection, the only problem is that I do not have a large knowledge base when it comes to cars. I am wondering if you guys can help me and please be so kind to tell me what sensors you know to affect fuel injection and if you’ve ever heard of such a problem before or know of anything that could help. I have a scanning tool and have been inspecting how certain sensors work and everything seems to be fine (voltages .etc) to my knowledge which again isn’t vast. I have had a friend bridge the whole ECT sensor circuit to eliminate it and sure enough the problem is not regarding the ECT circuit. I’m getting close to having to give up a perfectly good car all because of some stupid wiring problem. Thank you for any help, it is much appreciated.
  6. Hi All, This is my first post, I bought a Focus 1.8 TDCI LX 2005 5 days ago. Unfortunately it has already developed an intermittent starting problem, which leaves me feeling worried I've inherited a known problem here. Intermittently, the car just doesn't start, and instead the immobiliser light blinks. At first I thought it was a flat battery as it was cranking but was weak. Then after leaving it for a few mins it started just fine? Then again, the following the day, when turning the key, absolutely nothing. Seemed like a complete flat battery despite radio working. Then a few minutes later it started just fine. As of today, car is working absolutely normal, with no immobiliser flashing/ weak cranking. Car just starts perfectly. This is really strange! Any ideas? JP
  7. My 2010 Ford Fusion 1.6 Auto - 16,000 on clock - is currently in the Ford garage (having been transferred from our local garage which lacks diagnostic equipment). A couple of days ago it started to rev hard on starting. As I pulled into traffic, the power just drained away and the car decelerated to just 7mph. A single ( ! ) warning light came up on the dash. I managed to pull out of the traffic and crawled the mile or so to the local garage. As soon as the engine was turned off and then on again, the fault disappeared. Good old Google shows that this is a known problem with newer Focuses and Fiestas, and a wider search reveals that this is the most common problem reported by Fusion owners in the US. The Ford garage has confirmed that this is a common problem with newer Focuses/Fiestas, but Ford have not accepted that it also occurs in Fusions and therefore the adaptation I'm told it will need to remedy the problem is not covered by the Ford Warranty. Any one else had this problem with their Fusion? Has it been resolved? If so, how? Cheers!
  8. Hi, In the last couple of days my Focus has been choking seemingly randomly. Its normally after turning down a road or accelerating after a roundabout - I brake for a corner/roundabout in neutral or in gear then afterward I depress the clutch, select a gear appropriate to the speed and i'm going and then as I raise the clutch and depress the accelerator (as you do) the car chokes. This has happened fairly regularly anyway since I bought the car in May, but before it has choked for a second then sorted itself out and I just assumed it was the way I was driving it and it wasn't used to me. Now when it does this it doesn't sort itself out and engine management light comes on. The car just sputters and jumps like a kangaroo even with the accelerator depressed fully, until it either comes to a stalling stop or I restart the engine. This also happened yesterday when I was cruising at about 55mph for 10-15 minutes, i noticed the light come on and then the car started to stutter a bit but before I lost too much speed I restarted the engine and it was fine, the light went away. I've also noticed that I'm having to put a lot more revs into pulling away. Normally I would pull away pretty slowly due to the car but now I'm having to plant the accelerator. If I don't then the car loses power again. I've had a look through various forums and seen things like egr valve, dpf filter, etc but I just wanted to see what your opinions are. We did clean what we could of the egr valve yesterday and had a quick look under the bonnet but can't see anything obvious. I've called RAC this morning to see if they can find any error codes but I'm not sure because the light goes away. Thanks
  9. Hi I'm new hear, hopefully someone can help. My 1.6 Y reg has intermittent gear change problem. Mostly when temp is half way (after warmed up), but occasionally straight from old. It just won't go into gear. It has apparently had a new clutch and gearbox. Have bled clutch fluid in case of air bubbles, which hasn't improved it. It can happen any time, just won't go into any gear, I've even tried pumping the clutch. And very rarely I'll have the clutch fully down and u can hear it's going to cut out as if u've lifted the clutch too quick.
  10. Good Morning, Hope everyone is well, So I have owned a mk4.5 2.0ltr 140 mondeo for over a year it has 13K on the clock, returning from offshore one trip took the car out for a run, after about 20-30 minuets of driving I pulled over and noticed their was a ticking sound coming from the foot well of the passenger side of the car, lifted the bonnet but could not hear it over the engine idling but when back inside you could, it gets faster on revving the engine then returns back to a slow tick on idle, its only happened twice in the last few month and only when the engine is at temperature, hopefully someone has had the same experience before it get put to the garage to investigate, Thanks Grant
  11. This is a weird one: My 2005 1.8 tdci Focus (an early Mk 2?) Now and then, a bit more frequently recently, on low throttle openings, I can feel a jerking: - Much like fuel starvation in a petrol car. Sometimes on pulling away from a stand still, (on low throttle opening) the power drops of completely as I bring up the clutch and the car stalls. It's fine on wider openings, and on the motorway. Here's where it starts to get weird: On some journeys, after about three of these 'hesitation attacks', the big read cogwheel warning light comes on . - The imminent total disaster light. And from then on for the rest of that journey the car drive superbly. - Lively, responsive, smooth. When I turn the engine off, and back on again later, the light is out, and the cycle repeats itself. So of course, if I take to a garage, all appears to be well. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what might be wrong please: By my logic, some computerised system in the car is trying to do something, having a few problems, and then giving up. That function gets turned off, and the warning light turns ON. But what can it be that results in the car running MUCH better after that? And suggestion most welcome. Thanks
  12. Hi All, First post here, unfortunately in need of advice. The speedo on my 2004 MK1 Focus stops working intermittently (stays at 0). This happens approximately every other journey. The odometer also stops recording miles when the speedo stops. This is accompanied by it occasionally stalling when I pull up to a stop as the engine falls back to idle. I have not noticed a lack of power as other people have but this could just be as I am gently driving around town. The same applies for the drop in radio level. I have only noticed the speedo stopping working when I am moving off from stationery (it doesn't seem to stop whilst it is showing a speed). I have only done short journeys since this has started happening (less than 10 mins/3 miles) and it has yet to start working again. When I restart the car it resumes working. Having read other posts here and on other forums I was relieved that it appeared to be the VSS. I got this changed but the same symptoms are occuring. All the other dials are working OK throughout. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I think its unlikely the new VSS is faulty. Incidently it was replaced by a previous owner in 2009. Thanks in advance... Doug
  13. I bought a mk3 Focus ST2 at the end of October I'm the 2nd owner and it was registered in May 2014. Car ran like a dream until recently I've started to have problems with the electrics. While driving all warning lights on dash come on, both speedo and rev counters seem to lose power and the needles drop to zero then trip computer shuts down then everything reboots and returns to normal all in that order. It doesn't seem to be a major fault as car still drives fine but can be quite alarming and annoying! I only recently noticed that no matter how hard I drive the car the boost gauge never really goes over half way. Is this normal or could it be linked to my electrical fault? Has anyone else experienced the same problems? Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated!
  14. My daughters boyfriend and I brought the 2003 1300 KA a couple weeks ago as a present for my grandaughters 17th birthday (16th Dec). It passed the MOT yesterday (9 Dec 2014). This is an intermittent fault. Sometimes, either when accelerating or lifting off, the car will veer to the left quite violently. Other times it drives quite normally. Sometimes, immediately after the violent 'torque steer' (?) it will become impossible to select any gears - as if the clutch had suddenly stopped working. This is corrected by stopping the car, turning off the engine and engaging a gear (3rd) then while holding the clutch pedal down, starting the engine. It will jump about a little (as expected!) and free itself and thereafter drives perfectly normally until it happens again. I am undecided if the two faults are connected somehow, or if it is two different faults that happen at same time by sheer coincidence! Any help here would be most welcome. Many thanks in advance, Glenn
  15. Hello - Could I have some help/advice please? I have a 09 Ford Focus 1.6TDCi which I bought 4 months ago with 66K on the clock, I was driving along the motorway (hour into my journey) and noticed when i went to overtake from 70mph i had no power like normal, felt like i had no turbo and it took ages to get to 80mph. The engine also sounded very loud as it revved up to 3,000rpm. No warning lights, no smoke. This continued until i got off the motorway, turned the ignition off and on immediately and it was fine, all power and back to normal. This lack of power was at low speeds and high speeds in all gears. Took it to a mechanic who replaced the EGR Valve as it was stuck shut. Drove it again for the first time and this power loss happened 10 minutes into my journey, again no warning signals or smoke just no power from the turbo. Again turned it off then on and it was fine. Spent 250 replacing the value so was pretty annoyed that it had been made worse!!! Any thoughts on what it could be? Cheers for any help.
  16. i have recently purchased a 09 plate Focus Style 1.6 TDCI . I have noticed that on occasions 1. whilst 'cruising' at low speed (30mph) in 3rd/4th gear, the engine intermittently experiences a hesitation in power and then its fine again. 2. the engine experiences a loss in power when changing up in gears - normally occurs after driving for a while (about 30 mins) but can be intermittent. When I set off for work in the morning, there is normally a punch in the acceleration as I change up in gears and revs. At other times I dont know if I am imagining this or not ??1? I have also had one experience where I couldn't get any more power whilst going up a mild to moderate hill (10-20% gradient ?) no matter how much I pressed on the pedal. Even changing down and then changing back up didnt seem to make any difference. There are no messages or faults indicated on the dash and the engine idles nice and smooth. This is my first diesel and so I need some guidance/
  17. linbers

    Rear Wiper Issue

    Hi All, I have an issue with the rear wiper on my focus. Some time ago, the wiper started to play up on a particular setting. If I select the option for the wiper to automatically do 2-3 strokes and then stop, it only moves a small amount of the way across the rear window and then stops, in the wrong place. If I select the same option again, it will continue its stroke to the end of one side of the window and then return a small amount and then stop again. If I select the option where it will run continuously then there is no problem and it appears to function as normal. I have already replaced the relay, thinking that this may be the cause, but this has not resolved the issue. However I did purchase the relay second hand from ebay so there may be every chance that this was sold to me already faulty. I am guessing it could be the motor, but would this not also affect the wiper movement if the continuous option was selected. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.