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Found 116 results

  1. Evening all, My beloved 2013 Focus has this evening developed an odd problem - I can't open the boot lid! It was fine at 1830 when I left work but I've just now tried to open it again and it won't. Either by the key fob button or by the button on the lid. There's a light click, as if something is trying to happen, but no louder noise of the opening mechanism. The other doors lock and unlock OK. It is the same if the engine is switched on or off. I recorded a short video of the clicking noise and will upload if anyone would like to hear it. Any ideas? The Haynes manual is mostly silent on this. Cheers.
  2. hello, pse help! my ford modeo 2005, tdci cranks and cranks but just wont start. I was on the highway this other day and the next thing I see a flashing glow light, the engine stalled and this
  3. What are the best tyres for my 67 plate Focus ST MK3.5? The tread on my OEM goodyear eagle F1s (Asymmetric 3s? 235/40/R18) are getting low (only 6500 miles) and I'm wondering if there are any better tyres out there. i have looked on the website and looked at various tyre tests such as this one: . From what I've been reading online, the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 are the best rated tyres around, but I'm also interested in the Kumho ecsta hs5ss, and the falken Azenis FK510's as they have outperformed the F1s in the tests I've seen and seem to be a good price. So the questions are: has anyone had experience with these tyres? and which is the best for me to get?
  4. Hi all. Just today I noticed a line of dead or "stuck" pixles on the small LCD screen in the instrument cluster of my 2017 MK3 focus. I put the car Into test mode to capture the attached Image to show this issue more clearly. Has anyone in the community experienced a similar problem? Usually I find answers quite easily on this forum for issues that have popped up with my focus cars down through the years. However, this is the first issue I've had where I can get no information. Hence this being my first post. I hope someone can give advice on the issue. Can this be fixed? Is it covered by ford warranty? Cost of repair/replacement? Thanks, Podge
  5. Hallo mates :) I am here registered for a longer time so i have decided to introduce my toy :) i have a long list of modification so hopefuly i will be able to do them all - the only thing which slows the process is budget :D Ford Focus MK3 FL 1.5EB wagon / color Frozen White Wheels: still factory 17" OEM Ford + tyres ContiSportContact 3 215/50 R17 95W MODS done: J1 Performance Air filter w secondary cone and fitting disc ZetecS packet (fog light covers still missing) Engine factory software update from 150HP --> 182HP Yellow brake callipers MODS planned: Snorkel delete + RS air box Wheels 18" (currently Japan Racing JR21 or JR22 are in sight) :) Eibach Pro kit ???? i will decide later because roads here are not that good Sport car pedals and foot rest DUPLEX muffler adding factory PARKING ASSISTANT adding factory BLIS system adding factory rear camera SS-Tuning fender flares SS-Tuning gear knob boomba racing throttle body spacer boomba racing BOV adapter mud flaps ClimAir Wind Deflectors + sun protection black roof + wing mirrors individual chip tuning to gain 200HP Also would love to change the IC for a better one but unfortunately have no idea how because in 1.5EB we already have a water IC and not standard air-to-air IC as it is in 1.6EB And a few pictures: Stock: After sport package: Opened performance air filter by J1 Performance: Sport pedals + footrest: Boombaracing Blow Off Adapter prototype:
  6. Hello Everybody, I am new to here and hoping somebody could help me out. I have a Ford Focus Estate MK3 2012 Diesel, I have been having a few problems with it recently firstly it came up with Engine Malfunction service now with the information orange light and now it has gone into Limp Mode, it will not go above 3000 RPM, I have had it plugged in by my local mechanic who has said he thinks it could be the wiring from the ECU. When plugged in it is coming up with EGR Sensor fault...if anybody could shine any light on this issue, advise me or help me that would be fantastic. Many thanks and i look forward to hearing from you all soon.
  7. Is this possible? How expensive is it? Has anyone done it? Cheers
  8. I have just had a new windscreen fitted to my Ford Fiesta Mk3 F/1989 Ghia Low Series spec and it happens to be heated. I would like to add the switch to the blanked-off hole in the dash and use it! Of the four gaps I have, the rear heated windscreen and rear fog lights occupy two; same for the front are not present and blanked-off. I have checked and the relay socket with a mass of wiring to/from it is present though the relay itself is missing. The two 30 amp fuse holders (simply slotted beside the fuse box) and fuses are missing but would be easy to add as would the wiring to/from it. I do not know if the dash switch wiring is present. Has anyone added a functioning heated front window post-factory to any Mk3? My questions are: 1. Is the wiring/ plug for the dash switch present but tucked away somewhere behind the dash? 2. I cannot see wiring to the windscreen or either side of the two missing fuse carriers. Are they present but tucked away? I watched the screen being fitted and the +ve and -ve terminals are accessible. 3. Where can I buy the Ford heated windscreen dash switch (push button with light), the two fuse holders and the relay? 4. Any other tips? Thank you
  9. In need of some serious help! I have a 2015 Focus ST3 with Sony system, I am attempting to upgrade my speakers. I've bought a 2-way component speaker kit which suits my needs. I have never done any car audio upgrade or have much of a clue when it comes to anything electrical on cars. I have no idea where the amp is in my car, the sub is located in my spare wheel in a styrofoam cut out with only one cable going to it. Can someone give me some tips or point me in the direction of someone who has done this upgrade before!
  10. I have the premium Sony sound system with the 10 speakers in my car. I keep losing the centre and sub woofer randomly when driving and it won't return until the car is powered down for a while. The head unit has been replaced, and this still hasn't fixed it. Curiously this started happen after a software to try and fix other issues with the previous head unit. Does anyone know if there is still a separate dsp/amp in the MK3.5 or is it now contained in the head unit its self? I am going to call Ford directly and see what they have to say about the matter as my dealer is running out of things to try and things to replace!
  11. focustitanium12

    Something Dont Look Right

    Hi All, Was just checking out an AC issue that I was having and came across something that did not look right with the hose that comes out of the bottom right hand corner of the expansion tank. There is a hose clip about 6-8 inches away from the expansion tank that does not clip in to anything else and upon further tracing there is one that should be attached to this hose near the rad but isnt. It looks like the hose has been routed incorrectly as I think it should go below the rad top hose but it is going above it. See pics which will hopefully explain what I mean. This is a 12 plate 1.0 ecoboost (125), Any ideas?? Thank in advance.
  12. Hi Guys, I have a Focus 2014 (mk3) 1.5L Duratorq-TDCi which has just gone out of warranty. When I turn the air conditioning on (any settings, even max a/c) I get warm air. I've used forscan to check for DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) on the HS (OBD) and MS (ford) bus with no helpful results. Running a self test (key on engine off) of the PCM (powertrain control module) on the HS bus does successfully pull in the A/C clutch and does not report any faults. When the clutch is pulled in, it is solid and can't be turned. So the clutch itself appears to be fine. Running a self test of the HVAC module on the MS bus passes. I've monitored the following PIDs ACP_V - A/C pressure sensor voltage - 0.55 volts. Shop manual says the sensor should be between 0.3-4.7 volts INCARTMP - In car temperature - 215 degC. I have seen one reference online to 215degC being a "dummy" value on some cars, so perhaps normal. AC_REQ - Air conditioning request signal - "Yes" (when engine is running and A/C button is pressed) CACRP - Corrected air conditioning refrigerant pressure - 125.0kPa (compressor not running for this reading, obviously). The shop manual says for the mechanic to check the A/C system pressure via a manifold gauge set with the engine OFF. It should be above 290kPa. It then goes on to say this should be "similar" to the ACP_PRESS PID (which I think is the CACRP from forscan). I'm going to have the system recharged tomorrow, hopefully that fixes the problem. For reference, there is an evaporator temperature sensor, which is supposed to detect and cut the A/C off if it thinks the evaporator is icing up. I believe this is located in the passenger footwell, on the side of the HVAC box, with a 3 pin black connector going into a blue socket. I don't believe this can be monitored as a PID. The resistance of this can be checked as follows: 0degC = around 100kohms, 25degC = around 30kohms, 60degC = around 8kohms. I'm yet to check this. Let me know if anyone else has any other faultfinding tips, and maybe someone else will find this useful.
  13. Today marks a full year since I have had my MK3 Focus TITANIUM. What better way to celebrate this than to share some of the little changes I have done to it as it became my little project. Given that I am a menace when assembling things, I chose to let people with skill help me out rather than break things myself. Without further ado, please find below my little pride and joy. 1. Delivery. Last year this time, i went to pick up the keys. I was extremely excited and also fed up with the waiting. I ordered my car during a period where the Factory in SAARLOUIS is pretty much closed. Consequently, I had an extra 1.5 months delay on my delivery and when I saw it in the showroom I fell in love with the colour. I chose the DEEP IMPACT BLUE because of the catalogue. I really liked the way it was and in my mind the contrast with all those chrome bits and pieces would work. While this is subjective, I believe the blue suits the Focus perfectly and if you get the extra chrome parts around the car you get some nice results. As it was October, I told my dealer to put the winter wheels on straight away. There was no point for 3 weeks of summer tires and then go back to the garage and put the winter tires. In my area, winter tires are a must and the law enforces solid behaviour regarding this. My car arrived with the classic 16 inch alloys with 215 Continental Winter Tires. Not the best but now that I look back, they were solid and I will put them back next week :). Some annoying squeal on rain but grip on ice is good. This is how the little monster looked on delivery. It had less than 100 km in this picture. 2. Spring and Summer When the time arrived, I quickly went to my dealer and told them to put my summer tires on. I chose 18 inch alloys and decided to put Michelin Pilot Sport 3 as i had some experience with them. I am running 235/18/40 W tires and they are fun as hell. Comparing to how it originally looked, the wheels changed the car completely. I have no issue running these wheels contrary to what people say around these forums, when people want to upgrade from 17 to 18. After cruising for thousands of KM with the car, I came to the conclusion that if I am going to enjoy the car more, I needed to get rid of some of the body roll and twitching on braking. As I have the autobahn 40 km away from my house, unlimited speeds are quite common there. My country has a plethora of twisty roads so that body roll had to go or else. I then started looking into the one thing that could help with that : a suspension. Given that I was no stranger to suspensions, I have a second Ford, clipper, with a Bilstein Eibach combination, I was trying to make up my mind what to get. I looked into Bilstein, I looked into quite a few brands and then I settled for KW. A mate of mine has a TT RS with a KW Clubsport 3 way and after a few laps on the Nurburing with that, I said, KW is the way to go. I then had another dilemma. Which KW to get? They offered 3 possibilities for my car. After a few sleepless nights, I decided to go for the V3. It gave me everything I wanted in terms of adjustments and if decided to go hardcore, I would be able to do some corner balancing as well. After 3 days of wait, my KW V3 was built in germany and shipped. Two more days passed and the DHL van arrived with my brand new suspension. ...and of course the final result. Once this was on, the car was reborn. I started to lose contact with the brake pedal. Left turn, just accelerate and turn, right turn, press the accelerator and turn the wheel. The stability I gained from this suspension pays for itself every day I get in my car. Funny story, when i went to pick up my car, I wanted to sit down and pretty much fell because after so many months of sitting down in a certain position, the car was significantly lower. The mechanic laughed at me and said i should be careful now because the car is lower. After a few weeks, the suspension broke in and lowered a bit more. Springs were not as rough, however, the unavoidable coil rattle at low speeds is present. A small price to pay for a car that corners so well you will pretty much overtake on the inside on the outside above or even under. It goes wherever you point it and will not complain. The roll is minimal and the grip on braking is difficult to describe. Something worth noting here, the suspension is a good way to improve handling and to get confidence at higher speeds. Unfortunately, one does not need to forget that if things do go wrong they will go wrong. No doubt about that. A month in and i was already thinking of my next change to my car. What could I do to make it even more enjoyable? I made a few phone calls and I was given an offer for a remap. I set up the appointment and went to the guys who offered the service. They looked at my car and said I should not worry, the 1.5 ecoboost, rated at 150 hp, does not have 150 hp. I has between 170 and 175 on the dyno. Ford detuned the 182 version but not as much as some think. I was surprised to hear this and did not actually believe him. He ran my car 3 times and it averaged 175 HP without any modification. He then proceeded to load the new mapping and now the car has over 200 HP @5000 rpm. They also installed a cotton BMC airfilter and advised I change my sparkplugs every 15000 km to make sure all is in good order. The original Ford mapping was not bad but it was difficult to access. I drove through the Alps, the Chamonix area, and those hills up required me to constantly keep my car 4500 to 5500 for it to pull when I needed it too. This was annoying on the standard mapping and the new map gives me pretty much everything between 2780 and 5000 rpm. Much better mid range acceleration and lower consumption. 3. Winter and short term I doubt many cars, for the price range, handle the way my car does. I also doubt many, similar engine, burn rubber the same way, however, I must admit, others sound better. I am truly disappointed in the 1.5 Ecoboost and the sound. My significant other has a Fiesta which i helped her choose. We added a 3 cylinder ecoboost engine which sits at 165 hp with a pipe cross air filter. The car sounds beautiful and whenever I am in mine i just cringe. Having said that, I decided to change things a little bit. Some may have seen, I opened a thread on these boards regarding a rear valence. My car does not have Zetec or ST bumpers. It has the classic MK3 ones and flexibility is not really there if I want to change the exhaust. I ordered a duplex exhaust and realised that it will not be the best choice. The guys I ordered from were nice enough to let me change it given that they hand craft them for my car. I went for a single exhaust due to the limitation I have. For the time being, the car looks like this : As you can see, even if I custom cut the left side for an exhaust I have the risk of making my car look like really bad. The guys I ordered my parts were going to cut my valence and make sure everything would be perfect. I saw some pictures as to how it will look on a similar car to mine and decided to change the order. This does not look very good for me. Consequently, I will go for a single system. It is also more discreet and in case i do have a slight rear bumper issue, it will be an easy fix rather than have it custom cut again. I do not have any pictures yet of the new exhaust but I believe some specs will suffice for the time being. 76mm catback-system, right side 114mm round straight wide edge 200 cells HJS sport-catalyst / Euro 6 approved I get the exhaust installed at the beginning of November so I will continue my car log then. If you managed to get this far in the post, I thank you. Happy cruising!
  14. Ubetcha

    My Mk3ZS - Latest Clean

    Instagram filtered picture of my nine and a half hour clean n polish
  15. finnie01

    mk3 focus ZS

    So, November 2016 I went to see some cars, I came across a yellow Astra GTC was a really nice car in my opinion... but when I went and sat inside it, I decided it was not the car for me, had a look around there were some nice punto evos, a hawkeye wrx which I was not allowed to get.... Then I seen 2 focus sitting next to each other one was just the standard zetec and one was the zetec s, I opted for the ZS. The Day I picked her up. My first "modication" was Heko Wind Deflectors and 17" Rial Kodak GB alloys. Next I decided my sidelights spoiled the look of the car so changed them to Leds. Swapped most of the lights inside the 2 map lamps, and the boot to leds as well, Just wasnt wanting to go through the hastle of changing the glove bos as the only time I use it is to put my memory stick in and out for music. Before & after. Also added a k&N Round filter. I'm unsure on what to do next, possibly a map 113 HP 270 NM to 145HP and 350NM (roughly). That is as far as I have got as I'm unsure what you can do to the 1.6 diesel engines. So if anyone has any ideas would be welcome.
  16. I recently bought a 2011 Ford Focus Zetec model. Car was grand for first few months until an injector went, it seems to be problem after problem after this getting very low mpg towards standard, radio system not working constantly cutting in and out bluetooth not working. Latest problem with the car is, it is loosing coolant no signs of patches on the ground or anything like that. We brought the car back to the dealership we bought from and pur response was "you are lying". You can visibly see how much coolant was lost after a drive. I'm just enquiring is this a common fault for a focus to loose this much coolant?
  17. I recently bought a 2011 Ford Focus Zetec model. Car was grand for first few months until an injector went, it seems to be problem after problem after this getting very low mpg towards standard, radio system not working constantly cutting in and out bluetooth not working. Latest problem with the car is, it is loosing coolant no signs of patches on the ground or anything like that. We brought the car back to the dealership we bought from and pur response was "you are lying". You can visibly see how much coolant was lost after a drive. I'm just enquiring is this a common fault for a focus to loose this much coolant?
  18. I am looking for a footrest plate for my Focus mk3 2.0 auto to protect the carpet, the only ones I can find are on eBay and are for lefthand drive cars and I assume will not fit. Does anybody know a source for these for righthand drive cars?. Thanks.
  19. Here is a simple guide on how to replace the diesel fuel filter on a mk3 Mondeo ST 2.2 TDCI without any starting problems! I believe the 2.0 TDCI Mondeo MK3 uses the same filter as does the 1.8 TDCI focus MK1 You will need: 8mm and 13mm sockets (optional) Ratchet (optional) Fuel filter - Bosch 0 450 906 508 my old Bosch filter has part number 1 457 434 442 and is slightly different. A large syringe. I used a 60ml syringe. Fresh diesel Rags This can be done with only a few rags and a syringe or if you wish to have extra room to work you will need an 8mm socket and a 13mm (deep preferably) socket and ratchet. In my guide I have removed the metal brace for clarity and to show how its done if you so wish to do it this way. So you will need a new fuel filter, I bought a Bosch filter as they make the original and at less than half the Ford price it's a no brainer. A Bosch filter can be had for around £20 including postage. I change my fuel filter every 12-18 months, covering approx 20k miles a year. Lets have a look at the filter: (note the arrows and port sizes) Next you will need to open the bonnet and look at the rear of the engine on the left hand side, you should see the filter hiding down there. Remove the 7 nuts/bolts holding the metal brace and remove it completely (5x 13mm head nuts and bolts, 2x 8mm bolts) And you should be left with this For the next stage it is advisable to cover the alternator with some rags as there will be some spillage and it WILL drop onto the alternator. The clips holding the fuel pipes onto the filter now need to be released, simply push the 2 locking clips using 2 fingers (no need for any tools - they are very simply to release) and push the clip forward. once its unlocked pull the clip out as far as it will come. Do this for all 3 pipes then pull the pipes off and move them slightly so they are not in the way of the filter coming out, you will have some diesel leaking out now. Now that the pipes are disconnected, pull the filter upwards, noting that the filter is housed in a metal bracket which slides onto 3 plastic clips.You might find the filter comes out without the metal housing, even better if it does. You should be left with this: (I have started removing the filter from the metal housing) Remove the old filter from the bracket and discard of it safely - mind it is full of fuel. Now have your missus stand holding the filter while you fill/prime it with diesel. Remember to fill it on the inlet port as you don't want any dirt getting to the injectors! Once the filter is full (took about 400ml IIRC) you might see the level drop down again - don't worry about this yet, its just the paper element soaking in the diesel. Once the filter is full, refit it to the metal bracket and then slide the assembly back into the car making sure it catches all 3 clips - this can be tricky. Once its back in and secure, you can top up with diesel if required and fit all 3 pipes again - noting that the smaller port goes to the front. the pipes simply slide back on and when fully home just push the clip back in to lock it. Remove your rags from the alternator and clean up any mess. Refit the metal brace then stand back and look at your shiny new filter: Now its time to start the car, and if you have followed this guide correctly it WILL start first time and continue running no problem. Leave the car idling for a minute to check for leaks, test drive after this if you so desire. Stick the tools back in the shed, wash the hands and grab a beer! :) Well done you have just changed your fuel filter - should take around 10-15 minutes. Here is a pic of the old filter part number: If you are changing the fuel filter on your car, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for any damage caused and you should always fully understand the risks of whats involved before you start.
  20. Hi, I bought a 62 plate 2013 MK3 Ecoboost Ford Focus second hand. It was a cat D and it's been repaired. The car's done 33,000 miles and seems in decent condition. It drives nice and I love it. My girlfriend has the Ecoboost Fiesta. The stop start works perfectly on that, but on my Focus it hasn't kicked in once. The previous owner stated it usually works but that it's been stood a few weeks and the battery was low. I didn't believe that to be honest but as the rest of the car was fine I took a chance as it was at a decent price. Anyone know of any issues that stops the stop start working? The (A) button is turned on and there are no warning lights coming on when I start the car.
  21. Bungo

    MK3 Fiesta Project

    Hello, I recently bought a Mk3 Fiesta which will be a little project car to work on in my spare time. I am planning on putting either a 2.0l or 1.8l pinto engine in it, but I also want to keep it FWD. Does anyone know which gearbox I could use?
  22. O.K, so the Aluminium part of your foot pedal just fell off? Mine did a month and a half ago. I temporarily glued it back in place whilst ordering a genuine new one. Thinking this would be an easy swap I set about it. A few hours (and a lot of frustration later I managed the task). I couldn't find anything helpful online so I thought I'd write a quick guide of how I managed this. The pedal in question was the Clutch pedal, but I presume it'll be the same fro the Brake pedal too. Insure you have a lamp, a small mirror and a flat stubby screwdriver to assist you doing this correctly. Place the new pedal cover into a bowl of boiling water for around 10 minutes. Dry off the pedal cover and head to the car to begin fitting. (#1) Install the bottom of the pedal cover first (as it's the smaller area). (#2) Insert the upper left corner next (this is the awkward corner as you are inhibited by the pedal support arm) (#3) Then run your screwdriver up the side to ensure the rubber between #1 & #2 is correctly fitted. (#4) Fit the top right corner next. (#5) Run your screwdriver across the top to ensure the rubber between #2 & #4 is correctly fitted. (#6) Finally pull down on the right side tab to assist you using your screwdriver to ensure this rubber is correctly in place. This sounds fairly simple to do, but in practice it can be a bit of a dog to successfully get all of the rubbers on in place. You will need to apply pressure to the pedal cover against the pedal itself to get parts to stay on whilst moving on to the next step. Obviously if the pedal cover slips off then you should start again and drop it back into boiling water. I've attached a few images for assistance. I hope this guide helps at least one person out, please leave a comment below if so. Thanks in advance.
  23. Good morning everyone, I hope you are well. I have noticed a small knock noise as i switch the car from 1st to 2nd gear. The noise happens almost instantly and before I lift the clutch. It is just a single knock but i happens almost every time. I had a Google around and I have read that a similar noise is normal, but I wondered if anyone else has experienced this or has any thoughts. Thank you in advance.
  24. light cluster wires with arrow.pdf Hello, I have a rear view camera ( I want to wire into the reversing lights of my Mondeo Mk3. I currently have a front facing camera installed (clipped over the rear view mirror) and I want the rear view camera to automatically pop up when I select reverse gear. The pictures I have added are (starting from the top); 1- The two rear camera connectors, the phono jack goes directly into the front camera/screen unit and the black and red bi-wire is what is to be wired into the reversing lights. 2- The near side, rear, light cluster connector, wire termination points . As you face the car's rear it is on the left (passenger side) and located under a plastic panel. The left of the image is the top and each port is numbered 1-7 (I can't see how to rotate the image on this). 3- The rear camera 4-Manufacturer's installation instructions (generic, Chinese) 5-Link to pdf image, where I have added an arrow using a photo editor to indicate wire(s) I think I need to use. 6-The near side, rear, light cluster connector, wire termination points (Front of ports). As you face the car's rear it is on the left. 7-The near side, rear, light cluster connector, wire termination points (Back of ports). As you face the car's rear it is on the left. 8-The connections I tried ; Red from the camera into 5 port and Black from the camera into 6 port. Ideally, I have just missed a thread/wiki/tutorial where someone has done this and someone can point me in the right direction. Failing that, has anybody already done this and can you tell me how you connected the wires? So looking at other threads discussing the wire locations the red wire from the camera needs to be connected to the green and black wire (reverse left) in port 5 and the black wire needs to be connected to the black wire in port 6 (Earth). I have tried jamming the exposed camera wire ends into the correct ports and then tested the camera. The rear camera showed up as PIP( picture in picture) being the smaller of the two images as a constant feed. When I put the car into reverse gear I expected the image feeds to invert showing me the rear camera feed as the main image and the forward facing image the smaller PIP, but there was no change and the image stayed as it was. Does anybody have any ideas as to how I can configure this set-up so that when I go into reverse the smaller rear camera image turns into a full-screen image on the mirror with the front facing image taking up the smaller PIP? ***In the end, this method did work exactly as shown and described, maybe ram the exposed cable ends in instead of jamming them in. Held them in with sparky tape. Ran rear camera wire through door sills trunking down near side and up through pillar and across to top of mirror. I have mounted camera on inside of rear windscreen at the top in the centre of the brake light. Because of the angle of the glass on the boot I would say if your primary reason for install is as a reversing cam then you need to install camera outside the car, probably around the number plate somewhere as I can't really see any more than if I just look out the back window. Might change position later if I get time, not too fussed at the mo.*** Will leave this up in case anyone else wants the info.
  25. So I have a 2002 mk3 mondeo tddi with fixed vane turbo. Engine part is still more or less stock ( had the dmf to smf conversion done) I have read some different forums/posts and come to a conclusion that the car could problably use a bit more boost/power because well..boost ! :) The easiest (cheapest) would be to install a boost gauge and a manual boost control valve. My questions at this point are. 1. How much boost does the stock setup produce 2. How much can the stock piping take 3. When will the ECU understand that i am messing about with it and go into fault 4. At what point do i risk runing it too lean. So that the injectors, pump fail to come up with enough fuel. If i have overlooked a topic that covers these questions already, then feel free to post a link and point me in the right direction. Thank you