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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Found 60 results

  1. DRL issues

    Ok, so my cheapy Chinese DRLs have been on for over 6 months in all weathers and conditions and have worked great (for the price I'm pleased anyway) Last night my neighbour knocks on to say my lights are still on on the car. I have a look and its the DRLs. I know that after switching the car off they stayed on for a little while but then usually go off completely after a bit. The driver side one has always been brighter than the passenger side when this happens as well but I've never thought anything of it really. However, the car has been stood for several hours by this point and they are still on. I can only pinpoint this change to the same time as hardwiring my dashcam. I got a generic £13 kit from amazon which is supposed to sense the car's battery voltage and shut off if it is less than about 11.7v I think. So I put the fuse tap into F73 in the passenger footwell, which is a constant live supply to the auxiliary alarm. Thinking this was causing the DRLs to stay on; as there is a constant draw on the battery, maybe the car's electrics stayed on longer than usual, allowing a seepage of power to the DRLs - I moved the dashcam to fuse 86. Same problem. I've noticed tonight that the DRL's are still on to the extent that they were for a few minutes after switching the engine off. I've just been out and unplugged the cam for now to see if that cures the problem but has anyone else had this? They're the 'fang' style DRLs in the grille sails with a conrtol box and 3rd dimming wire. @kpg has some, I know and IIRC @Victory or @vibeone have them too? Any similar issues with yours, guys?
  2. Hi guys, Having a lot of problems with my 1.6 tdci. I have 136,000 miles on the clock and I've had nothing but trouble since 90,000. I have the dpf remapped out nearly two years, and I've just remapped the egr. Got it remapped because I was down on power just after getting my turbo RE done for the second time in a year. I'm still down on power at times , especially when the car is cold, and my fuel consumption is very bad. My fuel pressure at idle is 26,000 ... not sure if this is good or bad. But i now have error codes up to do with the fuel additive module and fuel additive module lamp sensor or something and something else to do with the diesel filter . Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated . Thanks
  3. Hi 07 Ford Focus C-max 1.6 TDCi Ghia 5d CVT Auto (Euro 4). There are many forum posts and threads on the TDCI power loss on acceleration, but I can’t find one with my own version... As per many others, if I accelerate hardish out of a roundabout or junction then power loss happens followed by stall / cut out. This is with my auto gearbox in Drive. So maybe EGR, maybe DPF, maybe fuel pump, maybe air/fuel lines, maybe ECU as per others posts. Yes I get the code P2002 DPF efficiency below threshold. I have the P2584 fuel additive ELYOS level one, and I get U0073 control module comm bus A off, which I think is secondary. But people have addressed all these and made no difference. If I clear them and retry, the fault happens (every time now) but the codes dont come back straight after, or even as pending, until some normal driving later. Here’s the thing... if I switch my gearbox into the semi auto side (M, and +/-), I can accelerate to my hearts content, keep in low gears rev to 4000 and hold it there - fine no issues. So it can’t be mechanical, fuel line, EGR? Maybe electronics associated with the auto? Anyone tried this experiment or can explain it? I put some wynns dpf cleaner in and have been driving at over 2000 to try to kick in regen, but no change yet. Car is rusty, not worth spending on maybes of EGR, fuel pump, even the DPF additive and ecu reset I’m tight on! thanks Dorian
  4. I have already accepted that my little fiesta mk6 is going to have to be somewhat of a project top get it up to something i am happy with but it seems on top of the current issues, a new one has cropped up that i could use your advice on. After i bought the car i had an auxiliary input installed (official ford part) i have used the input extensively with no problems, aside from a slight crackle from passenger door speaker. This i have put down to a faulty speaker, another job entirely. Anyway, yesterday i plugged my phone in to both the aux in and then the USB charger cable which in turn was plugged in to a usb adapter that fits in the 12volt supply (cigarette lighter). Almost instantly i noticed the sound was slightly distorted and crackly. Still relatively clear but not 100%. The other thing is, when accelerating i can hear a whining/whistling sound from the engine. The higher the revs the louder the noise. If i unplug the charger the noise instantly goes away. Any suggestions.... alternator issues perhaps?
  5. I have already accepted that my little fiesta mk6 is going to have to be somewhat of a project top get it up to something i am happy with but it seems on top of the current issues, a new one has cropped up that i could use your advice on. After i bought the car i had an auxiliary input installed (official ford part) i have used the input extensively with no problems, aside from a slight crackle from passenger door speaker. This i have put down to a faulty speaker, another job entirely. Anyway, yesterday i plugged my phone in to both the aux in and then the USB charger cable which in turn was plugged in to a usb adapter that fits in the 12volt supply (cigarette lighter). Almost instantly i noticed the sound was slightly distorted and crackly. Still relatively clear but not 100%. The other thing is, when accelerating i can hear a whining/whistling sound from the engine. The higher the revs the louder the noise. If i unplug the charger the noise instantly goes away. Any suggestions.... alternator issues perhaps?
  6. Hi all, my cigarette lighter socket isn't working on my '12 focus and I've checked the fuse under the dash and it seems fine. Any ideas what else I can check? Thanks in advance :) liam
  7. Hi all i am trying to get another keyfob programmed for my 2014 ST however when the guy plugs in his device into the OBD port he does not get any power. I have been told to check all fuses and after sending it to a car electrics specialist he says all fuses are fine and present and that there is another deeper problem. Has anyone experienced this before?
  8. Hi Im new to this and dont really know about cars that why i have signed up to try and solve this problem. Yestarday i filled up my tank and as the evening went on my car started to lose power in gears 4 5 6 and also pulling very slow in the other gear, it felt like someone had just taken the turbo out, i have rang ford and was told i need a diagostics test but read other forum with people staying that ford saying there was no problem. My car wont go over 65mph and wont go over 3rpm even if i have my foot right down. There is no warning light etc i really dont! I read another forum before saying his focus went in to limp mode after 2 days of hot weather and the last 2 days it has been 16+ here which is hot for the area. Also i have seen articles on the shell station saying the fuel is rubbish so thinking it could be a fuel fliter. Please can anyone expand my knowledge on what i already know. Cheers
  9. Suddenly losing power

    I have a 06 plate Ford Focus 1.6 petrol Zetec. I've had it a year and it's been great so far, no problems at all. A month ago whilst driving it all the warning lights on the dash came on for a few seconds, then all went out again. Afterwards the car seemed to have lost power. Although it was still driveable, there was little power when accelerating. When I got home I checked everything over and all seemed okay. I got back in the in the car and it looked like the problem had disappeared. But then exactly the same thing happened a few days later. All the warning lights come on, then loss of power. When I stop the car and restart the problem disappears. It's done this a few times now. It's very intermittent. Maybe two / three times a week. Any ideas what the problem is? I've never had a problem like this with any of my previous cars.
  10. Hi, I've been having this issue for a while, and its getting on my nerves again now we are in the winter! Basically, the following happens: 1) Turn the car on 2) Put on front heater (electric, not fan) 3) The power light comes on, and the heater goes off. The *only* way I've found to then turn that light off is a full power down of the car, and re-starting it. I've had the following done: 1) New alternator last year 2) New calcium battery (as recommended) 3) I've even had the front window replaced, due to half of the screen not working (the whole screen now works, but thats assuming that battery keeps up! haha) I've been doing a ton of reading online, and one thing that keeps coming up, is the "smart charge". Someone suggested checking the fuse... but I wouldn't even know where that is? (I've checked the diagrams, and no mention of it). Someone also suggested cleaning the "smart charge plug" , but I'm not exactly sure what that is either :) I really don't want to have to take it to the mechanics, as I've already had to spend out a couple of grand out on it this year . Thanks for any suggestions Andy
  11. Power / Temp Issue ST170

    Hi Guys, Been trying to resolve this fault now for a while but no such look. So around 6/7 months ago my ST170 started to loose power and gargle when trying to pull away in 1st / 2nd gear, putting my foot to the floor seems to then wake the car up and it springs back into life... I noticed the temp of the engine and the oil goes up and then on any long straight it starts to decrease again. I was wondering if because of this the ECU sits in limiter mode? I've replaced the engine temp sensor at the weekend, and the car does seem to warm up faster however it still drops down on a longish straight. Any ideas? Many thanks in advance!
  12. Hey guys, im a proud owner of a 59 plate titanium 1.6 tdci fiesta and as fun as it is having a slightly faster car than what im used to for my age. the time is coming nearer for the car to push for 150BHP. i was wondering what kind of mods including remaps and induction kits i can get for the best bang for my buck. i have been looking at the j1 kit but the price is a bit daunting. if any one knows any good exhausts (that exclude black smoke) that are a good price as well as and good induction kits for a good price as well that would be a great help! Any opinions as well as suggestions will help! and any experiences any one has had with these cars and getting power please let me know! thank you!
  13. Hi guys, I was interested in doing this to a fiesta ecoboost with 125hp as standard. I've seen the package Pumaspeed sell which tunes the ecoboost to 205hp which is apparently the max they can be tuned to reliably. However I wanted to use a turbo from a Fiesta ST instead as it will easily reach this power level and keep costs relatively down. On Pumaspeed I noticed that over 60 of these kits have sold and wondered whether anyone on here runs a fiesta ecoboost at 200ish hp? If so can you please share your experiences. Regards, -TheScoobyCollector.
  14. URGENT - Possible turbo failure?

    Hi there, I currently have a 2006 Ford Focus Titanium 2.0 TDCI 136hp (I believe). However, I was driving along minding my own business when I witnessed a sudden excessive loss in power. There was also a whistling coming from the engine somewhere? Also, whilst in first and second gear there's a large amount of jerking up until 3rd gear, thus resulting in me revving it slightly more to get into a higher gear. I am worried as its my fathers car and he's going to kill me, even though I've stressed for years that the turbo is pants and never been 100% responsive. I would just like to know could this just be from a crack in the Intercooler pipe or could the turbo actually have knackered on me? Sorry for the essay & thanks for reading.
  15. Power upgrades?

    Hi, I'm new to this and was am trying to make my mind on what to do. I'm buying a fiesta zetec S next month but unsure whether to her a mk6 or mk7.. I want something I can increase the power as much as possible and don't know what is best or has more options? Thanks, Matt.
  16. Hello Folks, I purchased a 2015(65) 1.25(82) Fiesta back in December 2015 and I'm just wondering how many miles it would take for the car to break in to allow optimal power delivery / fuel economy? Before I purchased it, I previously drove a 2014(14) version of the exact same car but to Euro 5 emissions rather than Euro 6 emissions by looking at the VIN check. When I handed that car over to my Mam, it had just over 7k on the clock and was starting to break in. I had a shot of it very recently with over 8k on the clock (just to park it up down the street) and compared to mine, it went like s**t of a shovel and the power delivery in 1st and 2nd gear seemed to be a lot more rapid and punchy. Also started smoothly from a cold start. Do you think my car (the 65 plate) will need a longer break in period or do you think that the Euro 6 emissions will hinder the economy / power output compared to the Euro 5 with particular regards to gear ratios etc? Do the naturally aspirated Duratec engines take longer to break in than a more contemporary engine? I know I should've parted with the extra £1500 quid for an Ecoboost but can't make any major purchases yet or get rid for various reasons. Just for the record, my car (the 65 plate) has just under 3k on the clock. Cheers D
  17. Focus Mk2 1.8 Petrol Sport

    This is probably a dumb question but I am quite dumb when it comes to cars! I test drove a Ford Focus 1.8 Sport Petrol 57 plate today, on the test drive I put my foot down and accelerated in 3rd gear which was nice and smooth, then once it got to 4,500 rpm the power really kicked in? Is this normal? Told you this was a dumb question....
  18. Hi, Ive had my ZS nearly full two years and want to freshen it up now with some tweaking and maybe a HP increase. Everyone seems to go for superchips but I can't see a long term example of a superchips remap being used on my model of car. Does anyone have a superchip mapped 2014 ZS that they have been running for a while? Or any other experience with any tuning box on the ZS 125? Any advice/recommendations welcome.
  19. Hi everyone. First post so sorry if this is elsewhere on the site or supposed to be somewhere else. I've searched the forum and can't seem to find a similar issue so hopefully someone can help. I drive a Fiesta Metal 1.6 Petrol. I love the car to bits and it's got just the right amount of power for me (especially with my previous car being a flat VW Polo running 85BHP). Occasionally when I'm driving I get an issue with the power in my car. The car will be driving absolutely normal and all of a sudden the power will drop. I get no warning lights or error messages at all. Coming off or going no on the accelerator pedal makes no difference at all. However when I pull over to the side of the road or change gear the problem seems to rectify itself. Has anybody got any ideas where I can start looking for problems, is this fairly common? or shall I go straight down the diagnosis route? As I don't get any warning lights and because I can't replicate the fault I worry that nothing will be found. Any ideas will be appreciated!
  20. Hi all. I'm new here and hoping to get some useful information about my issue. The car is Ford Focus Mk2.5 80kW TDCI Estate. 2 weeks ago I had an "Engine malfunction" alarm and the car went into the limp mode. Went to diagnostics and the mechanic told me it is the EGR valve problem, it is blocked. Next, I removed the stepper motor from EGR valve, cleaned it and moved it around until I was certain it moves freely. Reassembled everything and started the car. Error disappeared. Now, I have noticed some loss of power. The lever on the turbo was kind of stuck and was not moving (see the image). I moved it and used some lubrication to assist. It seemed ok after that. Right now the situation is as followed: if i start the car, the lever moves down and I can hear the turbo running. After about 10 seconds turbo stops and lever goes back up. If i press the throttle, the lever doesn't move most of the time. I made several attempts yesterday and one time managed to get it moving. I also blanked my EGR valve yesterday and took the car for a test ride. With the warm engine and the 4th gear went up to 140kmph (revs 3500). So, there are no limitations or limp mode, the car just accelerates slower than before. Although I can feel some increase of power after blanking the EGR (especially with 1st 2nd and 3rd gears). Then I stopped the car and turned off the engine. Started again and took off, I felt the turbo kicking in, the going was much faster again. After a while the power went down again. Sorry for my english, I hope you can understand what do i mean. So, it seems to me that the turbo sometimes works and sometimes it doesn't. Maybe somebody has some experience with the matter and share it with me. Could it be the Turbo Pressure Solenoid Valve isn't working properly. As i understand this solenoid valve controls the vacuum which moves that lever on the picture? Thanks in advance.
  21. Hi all, New to this forum, have had a good look to find this topic so I thought that I would post this; I've recently bought a 2011 Focus Titanium 1.6L Durance Ti-VCT (123PS) It's a lovely car, but I am left a little disappointed with the power it delivers. The acceleration is poor, with slight hesitation at about 1800 - 2100 rpm. I have tried it on a fairly steep hill and I really had to work the gearbox to get to the top! My previous car was a 1.2 Clio and that had more about it than the Focus with a far bigger engine and higher BHP (albeit it is a smaller car, but not THAT much!) I've done some research via the web (hence I joined this owners club) - some say that these cars are a bit lack lustre anyway, others say they have no problems at all with power and acceleration. Some say it could be a software thing or coil packs (lots of potential red herrings)... My car has a "full" warranty under Nissan's care4u package although I'm not sure if this is a warranty problem if its software? Just thought I'd ask you guys if you have come across this before, and to hear your comments about performance of this particular engine type Look forward to hearing from you Cheers Peter
  22. Problem with my car

    When I am driving in my 1.6 Zetec s mk7 60 plate. I can do in any gear and doing any speed but when I'm going along with my foot down on the gas peddle my car starts to pull back on the power even when my pedal is down and my speed and revs start to go down. It's like it's not getting any fuel or maybe sparking. I've got no clue what's going on. When I take my foot off and change gear a few times its fine for a bit but will do it a few times but then will be fine. No faults come on the dash and its intermittent never know when it's going to happen. Could use with some help!
  23. I have just baught a second hand 2012 Ford Focus 1.6 tdci titanium and it only has one power folding mirror which is the drivers side. At first I thought it was just either a fuse had gone or a faulty moter but on expection, I've discovered that the passanger side mirror is not power folding. My first question is; Is it normal for a car to have one power folding mirror? my second question is; Can I just replace it with a power folding mirror and because I've already got the button and one folding mirror, will the passanger side just work as well?
  24. Struggle to start and loss of power

    Hi I purchased a Ford Focus titanium X 2011 nearly 6 months ago and have had a few problems with it. The car was sent back to the garage a few weeks ago to replace the clutch and flywheel due to the previous owner, but the garage knew about that just after I bought the car so it wasn't my doing. However I'm getting more problems yet again. The car now really struggles to start, sometimes it takes two attempts to start. The starter keeps turning over and over around, sometimes 8 -10 seconds then eventually starts extremely roughly, but occasionally the car will just start straight away. After starting, there has been a squealing noise for the first 5 seconds or so once the engine has started, which has only happened around 4 times in the last week or two. When driving off the car jolts back and forth very forcefully and I have the sensation of losing power in lower gears when I try and get up to speed (only up to 30mph). I also heard a spluttering noise this week when maintaining a constant speed and when accelerating. On that same day, the car took around 15 minutes to get from cold then suddenly went up to a normal temperature. Help! Is this the one issue or am I dealing with a few mishaps? Have I bought a dud car??
  25. Unfortunately, the central locking is playing up. Everything works perfectly except the driver's door 'unlock' when using the remote. The door can be unlocked using the key and can be unlocked (assuming the deadlock is not on) from the inside. I have checked fuses, checked for broken wires (nothing obvious) as well as removing the door panel. As I mentioned, everything else works fine. It seems it is not possible to pull out the connector (of the door wiring loom) hidden within the door frame without removing the door, so before I do that, I wanted to check that, when applying the appropriate signal (+12V ?, earth ?) to the relevant unlock wire of the loom, the door lock actuator was indeed ok (suggesting a broken wire/ poor contact somewhere else). But, the loom that runs from the door connector (hidden in the pillar) to the lock actuator plug in the door itself, which has nine wires (6 lighter gauge, 3 heavier), are ALL COLOURED BLACK !!!!! What's all that about ??? Anyway, I can access the 10 way plug in the door so can track back the nine wires and identify them, if I knew the pin configuration of this actuator module plug/connector itself ? Can anyone help ? TIA ....