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Found 65 results

  1. Hi, I've just purchased a 2011 Galaxy 2.0 diesel with 200k miles used. Didn't notice on the test drive, but when the car has been left over night, when you drive the next morning the steering is extremely stiff to turn, when you move the wheel can feel resistance. This lasts for about 3 mins, to which this goes away. Also noticed that in normal driving, the steering can at a time feel twitchy on occasion. Any guidance or experience on this please. The wife is starting to lose confidence in the car already and only had it a week ...
  2. Hi everyone, I just bought myself a '08 focus 1.6 tdci 66kw, and I'm very pleased with the car so far. It has 110 000 miles but the engine seems fine except a little blowby from the top, but none from the dipstick, which my local garage says its acceptable for this mileage. Only one thing bothers me, the car seems to hesitate a bit on hard acceleration and seems to be a little low on power in high gear. I recorded a test drive with Forscan and here is what came out: Looks to me that the Waste Gate actuator is moving erratically when the accelerator pedal is pressed and I get a 2sec delay until boost kicks in. Since I don't have a clue how this is supposed to look like could someone please help me and explain whether this is ok or there might be a problem here?? BTW Other than this, car runs fine, very good mileage, no check engine lights and very little smoke from exhaust even on hard acceleration.
  3. I have a 2007 1.25 ford fiesta zetec.... I am losing power when driving, (feels like you are in the wrong gear) that's the best way to explain it... I have changed the spark plugs and coil pack so far but still doing it from time to time. what else could this be? any other info that may help, let me know as I need this fixed asap as I am going to need to drive this from Glasgow to inverness in about 18 days time. thanks
  4. Hi all, I have had a few issues with my focus recently from the dpf I have had it cleaned and refitted. The error and eml have gone so I believe it to be successful. However whilst driving today it was a fairly long drive of 160 miles round trip, my car has again been playing up. It feels like the torque is non existent and in 4th and 5th there is no power at all, it won't go over 3k revs in those gears but it does in the others. I have checked all hoses to and from the turbo within sight and tightened them all up. There is quite a lot of oil around the turbo but I also checked the propeler for movement and it seemed fine to me. In neutral if your gentle the rev counter will bounce between 3k and the first dial after the 3k and you do get some whitesh smoke come out the back. I really don't know what could be causing this if anyone has had anything similar or any ideas I can try?
  5. Hi, I've has ongoing problems with my 2007 Diesel Fiesta since I bought it 2 years ago. Firstly I know diesels can't misfire in the normal sense of the word because of the lack of spark plugs, but it's the best way to describe the problem. Basically (usually under load), every now and then (once every 500 miles), the car will lose power for a split second then regain it. Once it starts doing this it will do it a few times then stop, usually. Sometimes it lasts longer than others, and it can do it several times in a row. The more I'm accelerating when it happens, the more violent the kangaroo effect is. Of course, when I get a mechanic to sit in the car with me while I drive it, the car doesn't do it... The full timeline of events: I buy the car used, ~50k miles on the clock, average mpg of 47mpg suggests it's been used for driving around town. I start driving it 70 miles a day, mpg increases. first big journey, it starts misfiring. Check engine light comes on at end of journey. EGR valve replaced by person I bought the car from. Every other fix this guy did was a bodge, so I didn't expect much. some time later, car goes into limp mode. Power train failure, dashboard becomes a christmas tree. When car is turned off and on, it often stops going into this mode. Took it to Ford garage for diagnosis. Fault determined to be with injector no. 1, Ford garage wanted £1000 to fix it. Took it to independent tester with full machine for injector testing. He found no faults with any of the injectors, so he switched injector no.1 and injector no.3 around so if the fault re-occurred, we would be able to find the faulty one. "Misfiring" persisted. A few months ago, the check engine light came on again, then disappeared. Eventually it was on more than off, and as I'd determined it was an EGR problem, I wasn't concerned. During thsi time, average mpg steadily dropped from ~60mpg to ~56mpg (maybe because of increased heater use as winter started properly though). Eventually got it booked in a few weeks ago. EGR valve replaced, check engine light cleared. Since the most recent EGR valve replacement, not only is the problem still present, but the car seems to have less power. Most worryingly, pushing the throttle a certain amount (just above cruise speed) causes the engine to act as though one cylinder is not firing, then firing, then not firing, then firing etc. it doesn't do it when flooring it, however the car now tops out completely at 95mph, whereas before it could go faster, so it's definitely less powerful. Car is now at 83k miles, and gets driven around 80 miles a day. I've seen lots of other threads about this issue. They point all over the place. The throttle linkage, splits in air hoses or boost hoses, ECU software updates(?), and injector seals. No smoke is present and the car isn't giving me any engine fault codes either (at least, the check engine light hasn't come on). What I'd like to know, is if the fault is something potentially causing damage to the car e.g. timing chain misalignment or something? And no I don't really think replacing the EGR valve ~3 weeks ago made it worse, it just didn't fix the main "misfiring" problem as I hoped it would. TL;DR: Car has always had intermittent "misfire" problem, once it got bad but problem couldn't be traced, now it seems less powerful too with certain throttle setting causing more power/less power/more power etc. problem, with noise to go with it. no other problems with car, no warning light currently on, car was at 50k miles, now at 83k miles. Help? Edit: I should add, the air con was bodge-fixed by the previous owner so is now broken again (he just topped it up rather than fixing the leak, so gas has since evaporated off). The AC is always off. Could this lead to problems at all?
  6. Hi, Replaced my power steering reservoir and flushed/replaced fluid to try and quiet a slightly whiny pump... Otherwise it was fine. Was assured by multiple dealers that the part I needed had a filter in. Fitted replacement and even after a few days and correct bleeding proceedures had a super noisy pedestrian-jumping pump!!! Steering was also a bit heavier esp on roundabouts (it was fine before). Just looked closer at original reservoir removed... No filter! Cleaned it up and refitted, bled system etc. now back to normal levels of noise. Anyone able to see if their 2006-2010 2l Petrol SMax has a filter in the power steering reservoir or not? (Pics attached of one with). Many thanks, James.
  7. Phil21185

    DRL issues

    Ok, so my cheapy Chinese DRLs have been on for over 6 months in all weathers and conditions and have worked great (for the price I'm pleased anyway) Last night my neighbour knocks on to say my lights are still on on the car. I have a look and its the DRLs. I know that after switching the car off they stayed on for a little while but then usually go off completely after a bit. The driver side one has always been brighter than the passenger side when this happens as well but I've never thought anything of it really. However, the car has been stood for several hours by this point and they are still on. I can only pinpoint this change to the same time as hardwiring my dashcam. I got a generic £13 kit from amazon which is supposed to sense the car's battery voltage and shut off if it is less than about 11.7v I think. So I put the fuse tap into F73 in the passenger footwell, which is a constant live supply to the auxiliary alarm. Thinking this was causing the DRLs to stay on; as there is a constant draw on the battery, maybe the car's electrics stayed on longer than usual, allowing a seepage of power to the DRLs - I moved the dashcam to fuse 86. Same problem. I've noticed tonight that the DRL's are still on to the extent that they were for a few minutes after switching the engine off. I've just been out and unplugged the cam for now to see if that cures the problem but has anyone else had this? They're the 'fang' style DRLs in the grille sails with a conrtol box and 3rd dimming wire. @kpg has some, I know and IIRC @Victory or @vibeone have them too? Any similar issues with yours, guys?
  8. Hi guys, Having a lot of problems with my 1.6 tdci. I have 136,000 miles on the clock and I've had nothing but trouble since 90,000. I have the dpf remapped out nearly two years, and I've just remapped the egr. Got it remapped because I was down on power just after getting my turbo RE done for the second time in a year. I'm still down on power at times , especially when the car is cold, and my fuel consumption is very bad. My fuel pressure at idle is 26,000 ... not sure if this is good or bad. But i now have error codes up to do with the fuel additive module and fuel additive module lamp sensor or something and something else to do with the diesel filter . Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated . Thanks
  9. Hi 07 Ford Focus C-max 1.6 TDCi Ghia 5d CVT Auto (Euro 4). There are many forum posts and threads on the TDCI power loss on acceleration, but I can’t find one with my own version... As per many others, if I accelerate hardish out of a roundabout or junction then power loss happens followed by stall / cut out. This is with my auto gearbox in Drive. So maybe EGR, maybe DPF, maybe fuel pump, maybe air/fuel lines, maybe ECU as per others posts. Yes I get the code P2002 DPF efficiency below threshold. I have the P2584 fuel additive ELYOS level one, and I get U0073 control module comm bus A off, which I think is secondary. But people have addressed all these and made no difference. If I clear them and retry, the fault happens (every time now) but the codes dont come back straight after, or even as pending, until some normal driving later. Here’s the thing... if I switch my gearbox into the semi auto side (M, and +/-), I can accelerate to my hearts content, keep in low gears rev to 4000 and hold it there - fine no issues. So it can’t be mechanical, fuel line, EGR? Maybe electronics associated with the auto? Anyone tried this experiment or can explain it? I put some wynns dpf cleaner in and have been driving at over 2000 to try to kick in regen, but no change yet. Car is rusty, not worth spending on maybes of EGR, fuel pump, even the DPF additive and ecu reset I’m tight on! thanks Dorian
  10. Hi again, As many of you may know, I waited 4 months for my beloved 2013 Fiesta Powershift Titanium X to be built, and was finally delivered on 19th July 2013. About 2 months after, I started to notice a grinding/rattle noise whenever the car changed gear at low speed. And started to make the car judder when pulling away. (Which I assumed was down to tyres needing to be inflated, but turns out I was very wrong) I know you can always hear SOME noise from an auto and this one is a dual clutch so I figured it was just down to that, so I ignored it. Over the winter however, it has got much much MUCH worse, and I took it into Benfield Ford. Not once, but 3 times. Got fobbed off with "...just needed a software update..." Didn't make a difference, and just when I was at the brink of just ignoring the noise and the juddering and struggling to change gear, I went to Oxford (300 miles from my home in North Yorkshire) and it got so bad that it was making the noise constantly. To cut a long story short, RAC put me in a Premier Inn for the night, RAC bloke comes out in morning and takes it for a spin - it made a horrific scraping noise (to which he said "Well blow me down.....). He followed me half way home and then we met in service station and told me I could attempt to drive it home as he thought it would most likely be safe (but to pull over and call them back if need be) or he could recover me home. I chose to try drive it home, which I did do. Then once I was back I took it into Ford and this time I DEMANDED the HEAD of the service department comes out with me for a drive until it made the noise...... Not a sound for 20 minutes (though plenty of juddering and struggling to change from 1st to 3rd), and at this point I'm practically BEGGING the car to make the noise! But nothing.....until right when we're pulling back into Benfield, when she let's loose "Grrrrrriiinndddd.....and the service manager's face goes pale. He knew there was something VERY seriously wrong with that gearbox.... That was 3 weeks ago... I've been given the most horrific Peugeot 308 hire car (I know beggars can't be choosers, but this thing is the epitome of crap french build quality -or lack of- and it point blank refuses to reverse) and my Fiesta is STILL parked in exactly the same space at Benfield that she has done for 3 weeks. Apparently they are replacing the 'Clutch Assembly?!?!' (Not entirely sure what that is) I rang up earlier to find out if there was any update and got told the EXACT same thing I was told this time last week... "We've got all your parts, we're just waiting for some sealant. Could be a few days, could be a few weeks.." - Now, is it me, or is that pretty disgraceful that: A: My brand new car needs repairs so severe that they need 'sealant?' & B: That I'm being made to wait all this time for some sealant that apparently could even be out of production, rendering this whole ordeal to continue for several weeks, if not months from now. Apparently, this is a very common fault with the PowerShift gearbox on all Ford Automatic Models, but more commonly with Fiesta & Focus. So my question is, do any of you, or have any of you had the same problem with an Automatic (Powershift) gearbox??? How long did it take to be solved?? Many thanks, apologies for the long winded rant! Tracey
  11. I have already accepted that my little fiesta mk6 is going to have to be somewhat of a project top get it up to something i am happy with but it seems on top of the current issues, a new one has cropped up that i could use your advice on. After i bought the car i had an auxiliary input installed (official ford part) i have used the input extensively with no problems, aside from a slight crackle from passenger door speaker. This i have put down to a faulty speaker, another job entirely. Anyway, yesterday i plugged my phone in to both the aux in and then the USB charger cable which in turn was plugged in to a usb adapter that fits in the 12volt supply (cigarette lighter). Almost instantly i noticed the sound was slightly distorted and crackly. Still relatively clear but not 100%. The other thing is, when accelerating i can hear a whining/whistling sound from the engine. The higher the revs the louder the noise. If i unplug the charger the noise instantly goes away. Any suggestions.... alternator issues perhaps?
  12. I have already accepted that my little fiesta mk6 is going to have to be somewhat of a project top get it up to something i am happy with but it seems on top of the current issues, a new one has cropped up that i could use your advice on. After i bought the car i had an auxiliary input installed (official ford part) i have used the input extensively with no problems, aside from a slight crackle from passenger door speaker. This i have put down to a faulty speaker, another job entirely. Anyway, yesterday i plugged my phone in to both the aux in and then the USB charger cable which in turn was plugged in to a usb adapter that fits in the 12volt supply (cigarette lighter). Almost instantly i noticed the sound was slightly distorted and crackly. Still relatively clear but not 100%. The other thing is, when accelerating i can hear a whining/whistling sound from the engine. The higher the revs the louder the noise. If i unplug the charger the noise instantly goes away. Any suggestions.... alternator issues perhaps?
  13. Hi all, my cigarette lighter socket isn't working on my '12 focus and I've checked the fuse under the dash and it seems fine. Any ideas what else I can check? Thanks in advance :) liam
  14. Hi Im new to this and dont really know about cars that why i have signed up to try and solve this problem. Yestarday i filled up my tank and as the evening went on my car started to lose power in gears 4 5 6 and also pulling very slow in the other gear, it felt like someone had just taken the turbo out, i have rang ford and was told i need a diagostics test but read other forum with people staying that ford saying there was no problem. My car wont go over 65mph and wont go over 3rpm even if i have my foot right down. There is no warning light etc i really dont! I read another forum before saying his focus went in to limp mode after 2 days of hot weather and the last 2 days it has been 16+ here which is hot for the area. Also i have seen articles on the shell station saying the fuel is rubbish so thinking it could be a fuel fliter. Please can anyone expand my knowledge on what i already know. Cheers
  15. Hi all i am trying to get another keyfob programmed for my 2014 ST however when the guy plugs in his device into the OBD port he does not get any power. I have been told to check all fuses and after sending it to a car electrics specialist he says all fuses are fine and present and that there is another deeper problem. Has anyone experienced this before?
  16. DomBurf

    Suddenly losing power

    I have a 06 plate Ford Focus 1.6 petrol Zetec. I've had it a year and it's been great so far, no problems at all. A month ago whilst driving it all the warning lights on the dash came on for a few seconds, then all went out again. Afterwards the car seemed to have lost power. Although it was still driveable, there was little power when accelerating. When I got home I checked everything over and all seemed okay. I got back in the in the car and it looked like the problem had disappeared. But then exactly the same thing happened a few days later. All the warning lights come on, then loss of power. When I stop the car and restart the problem disappears. It's done this a few times now. It's very intermittent. Maybe two / three times a week. Any ideas what the problem is? I've never had a problem like this with any of my previous cars.
  17. Hi, I've been having this issue for a while, and its getting on my nerves again now we are in the winter! Basically, the following happens: 1) Turn the car on 2) Put on front heater (electric, not fan) 3) The power light comes on, and the heater goes off. The *only* way I've found to then turn that light off is a full power down of the car, and re-starting it. I've had the following done: 1) New alternator last year 2) New calcium battery (as recommended) 3) I've even had the front window replaced, due to half of the screen not working (the whole screen now works, but thats assuming that battery keeps up! haha) I've been doing a ton of reading online, and one thing that keeps coming up, is the "smart charge". Someone suggested checking the fuse... but I wouldn't even know where that is? (I've checked the diagrams, and no mention of it). Someone also suggested cleaning the "smart charge plug" , but I'm not exactly sure what that is either :) I really don't want to have to take it to the mechanics, as I've already had to spend out a couple of grand out on it this year . Thanks for any suggestions Andy
  18. itakethepics

    Power / Temp Issue ST170

    Hi Guys, Been trying to resolve this fault now for a while but no such look. So around 6/7 months ago my ST170 started to loose power and gargle when trying to pull away in 1st / 2nd gear, putting my foot to the floor seems to then wake the car up and it springs back into life... I noticed the temp of the engine and the oil goes up and then on any long straight it starts to decrease again. I was wondering if because of this the ECU sits in limiter mode? I've replaced the engine temp sensor at the weekend, and the car does seem to warm up faster however it still drops down on a longish straight. Any ideas? Many thanks in advance!
  19. Hey guys, im a proud owner of a 59 plate titanium 1.6 tdci fiesta and as fun as it is having a slightly faster car than what im used to for my age. the time is coming nearer for the car to push for 150BHP. i was wondering what kind of mods including remaps and induction kits i can get for the best bang for my buck. i have been looking at the j1 kit but the price is a bit daunting. if any one knows any good exhausts (that exclude black smoke) that are a good price as well as and good induction kits for a good price as well that would be a great help! Any opinions as well as suggestions will help! and any experiences any one has had with these cars and getting power please let me know! thank you!
  20. Hi all, New to this forum, have had a good look to find this topic so I thought that I would post this; I've recently bought a 2011 Focus Titanium 1.6L Durance Ti-VCT (123PS) It's a lovely car, but I am left a little disappointed with the power it delivers. The acceleration is poor, with slight hesitation at about 1800 - 2100 rpm. I have tried it on a fairly steep hill and I really had to work the gearbox to get to the top! My previous car was a 1.2 Clio and that had more about it than the Focus with a far bigger engine and higher BHP (albeit it is a smaller car, but not THAT much!) I've done some research via the web (hence I joined this owners club) - some say that these cars are a bit lack lustre anyway, others say they have no problems at all with power and acceleration. Some say it could be a software thing or coil packs (lots of potential red herrings)... My car has a "full" warranty under Nissan's care4u package although I'm not sure if this is a warranty problem if its software? Just thought I'd ask you guys if you have come across this before, and to hear your comments about performance of this particular engine type Look forward to hearing from you Cheers Peter
  21. Hi guys, I was interested in doing this to a fiesta ecoboost with 125hp as standard. I've seen the package Pumaspeed sell which tunes the ecoboost to 205hp which is apparently the max they can be tuned to reliably. However I wanted to use a turbo from a Fiesta ST instead as it will easily reach this power level and keep costs relatively down. On Pumaspeed I noticed that over 60 of these kits have sold and wondered whether anyone on here runs a fiesta ecoboost at 200ish hp? If so can you please share your experiences. Regards, -TheScoobyCollector.
  22. CoreyTitanium06

    URGENT - Possible turbo failure?

    Hi there, I currently have a 2006 Ford Focus Titanium 2.0 TDCI 136hp (I believe). However, I was driving along minding my own business when I witnessed a sudden excessive loss in power. There was also a whistling coming from the engine somewhere? Also, whilst in first and second gear there's a large amount of jerking up until 3rd gear, thus resulting in me revving it slightly more to get into a higher gear. I am worried as its my fathers car and he's going to kill me, even though I've stressed for years that the turbo is pants and never been 100% responsive. I would just like to know could this just be from a crack in the Intercooler pipe or could the turbo actually have knackered on me? Sorry for the essay & thanks for reading.
  23. MattSpindley

    Power upgrades?

    Hi, I'm new to this and was am trying to make my mind on what to do. I'm buying a fiesta zetec S next month but unsure whether to her a mk6 or mk7.. I want something I can increase the power as much as possible and don't know what is best or has more options? Thanks, Matt.
  24. Hello Folks, I purchased a 2015(65) 1.25(82) Fiesta back in December 2015 and I'm just wondering how many miles it would take for the car to break in to allow optimal power delivery / fuel economy? Before I purchased it, I previously drove a 2014(14) version of the exact same car but to Euro 5 emissions rather than Euro 6 emissions by looking at the VIN check. When I handed that car over to my Mam, it had just over 7k on the clock and was starting to break in. I had a shot of it very recently with over 8k on the clock (just to park it up down the street) and compared to mine, it went like s**t of a shovel and the power delivery in 1st and 2nd gear seemed to be a lot more rapid and punchy. Also started smoothly from a cold start. Do you think my car (the 65 plate) will need a longer break in period or do you think that the Euro 6 emissions will hinder the economy / power output compared to the Euro 5 with particular regards to gear ratios etc? Do the naturally aspirated Duratec engines take longer to break in than a more contemporary engine? I know I should've parted with the extra £1500 quid for an Ecoboost but can't make any major purchases yet or get rid for various reasons. Just for the record, my car (the 65 plate) has just under 3k on the clock. Cheers D
  25. Hi everyone. First post so sorry if this is elsewhere on the site or supposed to be somewhere else. I've searched the forum and can't seem to find a similar issue so hopefully someone can help. I drive a Fiesta Metal 1.6 Petrol. I love the car to bits and it's got just the right amount of power for me (especially with my previous car being a flat VW Polo running 85BHP). Occasionally when I'm driving I get an issue with the power in my car. The car will be driving absolutely normal and all of a sudden the power will drop. I get no warning lights or error messages at all. Coming off or going no on the accelerator pedal makes no difference at all. However when I pull over to the side of the road or change gear the problem seems to rectify itself. Has anybody got any ideas where I can start looking for problems, is this fairly common? or shall I go straight down the diagnosis route? As I don't get any warning lights and because I can't replicate the fault I worry that nothing will be found. Any ideas will be appreciated!