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Found 18 results

  1. Like a lot of people it seems, I had trouble with the radiator/cooling fan not operating on my S Max. Presumably this also applies to the Galaxy mk3 and the Mondeo. I have now fixed the problem and thought it would be helpful to share what I know as there is little information that I found when searching the internet, some of which is incorrect. I am an electronics/software engineer by trade and so for my own curiosity as much as anything I wanted to find out how the fan operates..... Attached to the cooling fan housing is a speed controller in a small metal box. Some forum posts refer to this as a relay box, which is incorrect. It is driven by a PWM signal - to those who don't know what that is, it is a continuous series of pulses that change width dependant on the speed required. There are three wires going to the fan controller, a permanent 12V feed (Red), a ground (Black) and a pink wire. The pink wire is the control (PWM) wire. There are two wires that come out of the other end of the speed controller and connect to the fan. The powertrain control module (PCM) in the wheel arch drives the PWM signal on the pink wire. So how do you tell if the fan should be on? The signal on the pink wire appears to be an open-collector drive - a bit technical but basically means that you probably won’t be able to measure a signal unless it is plugged in to the fan speed controller at the time. This is also how the PCM detects a fan fault. The speed controller has an internal pull-up resistor between the pink wire and 12V (Measures about 2700 ohms). When the fan is connected, the PCM module can see the 12V on the pink wire, so when the fan is disconnected, the 12V disappears from the pink wire and the PCM can detect a fault. If you have a voltmeter - when connected between ground and the pink wire you should see 12V (or whatever the battery voltage is) when the fan is off and a lower voltage when the fan is on. The actual voltage will depend on how fast the fan should be going and the type of voltmeter but it will probably be around 4V at full speed. I believe there are two ways to force the fan to come on. The first is to disconnect the engine temperature sensor - however I did not try this as I was not sure where it was. The second method (that I used) is to turn the aircon on full - when the aircon is on the cooling fan should come on full speed. This will only happen though when the engine is running as the aircon pump has to be engaged. If you just want to test the fan itself works, you can disconnect the 2 pin connector from the output of the fan controller and connect them to 12V and GND. I did this by also removing the 3 pin connector and using the red and black connections on their to link across to the fan connector. So what was wrong with my fan ? I had what appears to be a common problem of the pink control wire being broken/corroded in the wiring loom. The following is a description of a right hand drive, I don't know if the engine layout is different for a LHD. The PCM module is located in the passenger (near) side wheel arch. You need to remove the wheel and arch liner to get at it (Mine has the protective cover over the connectors with a shear bolt which I don't have tools to remove). You don’t have to take the wheel/liner off but I found it gave me better access to the loom. The wiring loom from the PCM goes through the arch and at about 6 inches in to the engine bay (pretty much under the bottom radiator hose) part of the loom goes up to the top. This bit of the loom is cable tied to the inner wing. This contains the pink control wire which then goes across to the fan controller. My pink wire was broken/corroded at the point the loom separates in the bottom of the bay. There are two reasons for this. The first is that the cable firstly bends to the left and then is bent back on itself to go the wheel arch and taped up so that there is too tight a bend in the wire. The second reason is that this join is below the washer fluid bottle and water dribbles down into the join which over time corrodes the wire. What I learnt when fixing the problem: It is much easier to access from the bottom of the engine bay. I started trying to un-tape the loom from the top (After removing the air filter box). After removing the wheel arch liner, I discovered it was much easier to access from the bottom and removing the liner gives you more room to manoeuvre your arms. You will have to remove a fair amount of tape and some conduit from the loom to work out which wire it is but there are only a couple of pink wires in that part of the loom and I think only one that has a tight bend. I cut out the bent/corroded piece of wire and replaced it. I have read on some forums that any fault codes need to be reset before the fan will work again. I didn’t reset my code (P145C, Fan System Component A) and it worked anyway. The attached pictures show 1) A picture of the PWM signal on the pink wire viewed on an oscilloscope. This is with the fan full on. 2) a picture of the wiring loom from above after removing tape/conduit - This taken with the air intake box removed. 3) The small section of wire that I removed and the break/corrosion in the middle 4) A view of the PCM module inside the wheel arch with the liner removed 5) A picture of the wiring loom from below with the pink wire cut out Hopefully all of this info will be useful to someone……
  2. Antc91

    Ecoboost cooling system.

    Hi all, I have the 1.6 ecoboost and had been looking coolent, found it had been slowly leaking from the join in the heater matrix pipes is the footwell(seems pretty common). Anyway I replaced the O rings in the pipes and when I was refilling and bleeding the system I noticed the top radiator hose was cool and the lower was very hot, is this normal? I have heat in the car, the pipes entering and leaving the heater matrix are both hot? The coolent in the tank was warming up. Am I right in just running the engine with the expansion tank cap of or is there another way to bleed the system out? Cheers
  3. Hiya, I know nothing about cars, but have googled this problem and I think found a solution. Hope you dont mind me spamming the board up just double checking its not going to explode my car? Ive a 05 1.6 petrol cheap little up until this point lovely runaround of a car. After the crazy snow its started overheating and going low on power...not sure if over revving it because its low on power makes it overheat or if overheating can make power go away. Its doing a weird thing where I park up after a decent sized drive and it sounds like the whole engine is still running but its just the radiator fan going absolutely mental. Today on the M5 it started flashing the really bad red warning light *other ones always on keeping me company* and the temperature needle was darting up to the red end, then it comes back down for a bit and darts up dramatically again for no obvious reason (i was hiding in the left lane behind a lorry doing 57 after it came on first time.) I did fill up the oil (tiny bit) and the coolant (tiny bit) at the weekend and there seems to be plenty still in there. The coolant does a weird thing though, when I open the bonnet it looks completely empty, then I open the cap to pour it in and it looks like the water in there is boiling and it just magically refills itself. Which is no doubt a terrible symptom of my dead car and not a delightful Ford based trick :( Anywho...fan staying on and car overheating is what I told a girl at work. She said it is definitely that the coolant thingy has air inside of it and its stopping it work as this happens a lot in the cold? I googled it and the easiest solution I found was to unscrew the cap for the coolant hole, fill it right over the fill line to the brim, switch the engine on and wait for a load of air to come out. Is this true or one of those internet tricks? I cant imagine filling it over the max line or running the car when the cap is off is a good thing. Any ideas? Im an absolute moron with this sort of thing but working away pretty much all the week so not sure when I can get it in to a garage to fix...and I hate walking to the train station every morning. Sorry for my idiocy, if you can help that would be great, if this makes no sense at all I apologise.
  4. Hi guys bit of a problem, done a coolant change and one of the o rings on the drain plug fell apart as I unscrewed it. Can this be replaced if so how as I was trying to be gentle with it as it's plastic but doesn't want to come off completely
  5. Afternoon Everyone, New to the forum, and looking for some advice and/or guidance. I own a 2006 Ford Fiesta 1.6 TDCI and the warning light (the one shaped like a cog) comes on and the car goes into limp mode and tells me to check the manual. I have Run a diagnostic check with a cunsumer level diagnostic tool and no codes are available. Starts again fine, no smoke or noise that would indicate there is an issue and no warning light. All fluids are at the correct levels and the car is regularly serviced. Lots of similar topics say it could be the EGR valve, but it's not idling badly and I would assume it would put up a code. I was thinking it could be the radiator; the warning light comes mainly when engine is at Temperature and I'm in slow moving or stationary traffic. I've got the car to temp and turned on the A/C but the radiator fan doesn't come on. Could this be the issue and the engine is 'protecting' itself from overheating? Any one experienced this sort of issue, and can help me resolved this. Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  6. Hello, Got out of the S-Max 2.0Litre Diesel tonight, fan running....not uncommon after a high speed run or time spent in traffic - thought nothing of it. 10 minutes later went back out to car.....Fan still running.....odd as the journey we had just made was only 5 minutes and not high speed. Started car again - let it idle - wanted to see if it would correct itself....it did not. Decided to pull the hood and disconnect the fuse......F5 - 60 ~Amps.....found out this is the type which have a bolted in type of fuse.....could not easily remove it so disconnected battery and left it for 20 minutes. Re-attached it and the fan kicked in straight away. So in my mind I am looking at a faulty fuse (unlikely as this would go open circuit).....faulty fan relay (located on side of fan and looks to be honest like a miniature ECU) or faulty engine coolant sensor. Any suggestions what else it could be? Am I safe to pull the bolted type fuse at 60 amps so the wife can drive the car about (5 mile journeys to and from school only....no real traffic).....?.....or should I pull the wiring from the fan where it plus into the relay on the radiator fan cowl - just so the car can be used while I do a bit more investigation (Hopefully someone on here will know what to do more than me !!). Look forward to hearing from you guy's. Many Thanks, Chris
  7. D3ano0

    1998 Escort

    Hello good people of FOC, This is my first post on your forums since I have just inherited my Granddad's 1998 Escort, I'm hoping that you guys will be able to assist me over the next year or two that I plan on owning this car :) I saved the poor car from meeting the scrap heap as my granddad managed to blow the head gasket and took it upon myself to fix it. After a few weekends of work I managed to get it all fixed and running again, but there is still a problem. The radiator fan isn't kicking in when the temp picks up, which is probably the cause of the blown gasket. I have found that the fan is still functional by shorting the wires to the fan switch and therefore blame the fan switch itself. Now, the switch looks new.. which means that it may not be a Ford part and therefore may not be rated to the correct temperature as the original switch. The switch is rated at 100-95°C for low fan speed and 110-105°C for high. I want to know what temperatures the switch is meant to operate on an original part. If there are any MK VII owners out there can you please help me out by checking yours? Should I buy a lower temp rating to help prevent overheating? Thanks in advance
  8. have an ongoing problem with my 2005 ford focus 1.4. I have to add at least 1 litre of water into my water reservoir (plastic thing that fills the radiator) each day. The water disappears once I have been driving, more disappears over a longer journey. The water stays in if the engine has not be running. A mechanic has pressure tested the plastic reservoir but states it is holding all pressure they put into it (no leakage), also the cap has been replaced to ensure that it is sealing and not letting off steam. The engine appears to be running fine and the oil looks as it should. Can anyone please advise, as I think the mechanic has given up?? Thanks,
  9. Hi there, We've got 1997 Ford Escort Cabriolet 1.8 Ghia.... with an overheating problem. The engine's cooling fan doesn't kick in. We found out the top radiator hose switch (Part No 7001612) and plug were both melted and we replaced them. But now it seems that the radiator fan switch is also melted. What could be the cause of these things happening? We also get an intermittent a ticking/clicking sound which sounds like it's coming from the dash - electrical problem clearly - which might be connected. We'd be very grateful for any ideas/advice. Thank you, Paul and Ros.
  10. Hi all, I'm currently changing the radiator fluid on my project car and when reading up on the various types to coolant/anti-freeze mixtures available, I found this stuff from Redline called water wetter, It looks like fantastic stuff and only takes a few cap fulls in to your radiator along with your standard fill of radiator fluid to reduce your radiate temps by up to 15 degrees That may not seem like much of a reduction but for the price of the bottle and no additional modifications required makes a huge difference between 195 and 180 degrees under the bonnet. It will also help on turbo vehicles equipped with turn timers water wetter would help the car cool down quicker after a sprint. I'm sold on a bottle anyways, I'm going to purchase one soon my only downfall is; I can't find anywhere in Ireland that sells it, So I'm going to have to source a uk supplier that can ship it over to me in a customs friendly fashion as they can be perticular on the shipping of liquids. I've found our forum friends OpieOils stock it for both petrol and diesel variants, See here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1884-red-line-coolants-additives.aspx I'm going to contact them for a price on shipping to Ireland, Id like to hear from anyone who has used the product aswell What's your opinions on the stuff, To finish here's a short video explaining how it works
  11. Following on from here, kind of: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/47311-argh-this-flippin-car/ I didn't change the radiator as the repair, as ugly as it was, seemed to be structurally fine. Today my wife was just off to her mate's house, as she reversed back I noticed a small puddle under the front of the car. Popped the bonnet and had a look at the repair - put my finger under the bottom of the pipe, barely touched it and BOSH - off it came. It had completely decayed and felt just like paper. There was no gush of water, though, telling me that it's been on the way for some time. I did a 150-mile run the other day and I would have been proper (insert random swear words here) if it'd had happened then. To cut to the chase... I've got a new rad on order which should be here tomorrow. I've got the car up on ramps, tied the radiator from the top to take the weight, and undone 3 of the four bolts on the mounting brackets - one is siezed, and rounded, currently soaking in WD40, will probably have to beat it with a hammer, or drill it. Something. Anyway, I then turned my attentions to draining the coolant. I cannot find a drain plug anywhere. The Haynes *spit* manual shows a picture of the drain plug, situated what appears to be directly above one of the radiator support pegs that sits in the rad mount. I have checked both sides, front and back, there is no such drain plug. Nor can I see any practical way of draining the fluid. The bottom hose is barely reachable, points upwards at a 45-degree angle, so I don't see that as a viable way of draining the fluid out without it going everywhere. So, where's this dam drain plug??? I'd like to do the job properly but if all else fails, given that the rad is going to scrap, should I just stab a screwdriver through the bottom of the plastic bit and do it that way? There might not even be much in there (the header tank is now all but empty), but I've got cats and don't especially want antifreeze all over the floor.
  12. TOMBOI

    Radiator Hose

    If you are driving a 2007 Ford Fiesta 1.4i and your radiator hose comes loose, how long does it take for the water to run out and the car to overheat? Also does anyone have a picture of the radiator hose showing the plastic clip on the one end?
  13. Hi all, Having a slight issue with my radiator fan. I've noticed it kicking in full blast on cold starts, ie 6am when I first start the engine. It also decides to kick in after I turn the engine off. It doesn't happen all the time, just occasionally, sometimes for 2 minutes other times for over 20. I know it's the fan because I stuck my hand in the way and could feel the air one of the times it happened. I've searched through the forums for this, and all I can find is dpf regen, but mine is the 90ps without the dpf so that's ruled out. Any ideas on what's wrong? The car is still in warranty from the dealer, so need to go in with an idea, mainly because it's not a Ford dealer. Thanks in advance, Peange
  14. I am hoping that someone out there can PLEASE help me? I bought a 2008 Mondeo Zetec 1.8 TDCi (6 speed) from a used car dealership 2 months ago. To cut a long story short, the car has been back into the garage on numerous occasions for a couple of different faults (air con not working, car wouldn't start first time when turning key) and today a mass of white smoke came out from the rear of the car whilst driving along the motorway at 60mph. When I pulled in and lifted the bonnet there was (what I can only describe as) an explosion of liquid (see attached photo) Whether this is oil, water or coolant, I don't know as I'm not mechanically minded. I was able to drive the car 2 miles to the garage as I was in the area but wouldn't have liked to have driven it further! It did seem to take ages for the engine to cool when I stopped after it happened! My problem is, knowing how useless the garage has been to date with previous issues with this car, they will take ages to find and rectify this fault, so I am asking for any ideas as to what may have happened so I can hopefully speed up the process of getting my fixed and back in my possession (on one occasion they had the car for 10 days and had to send it out to another garage to fix because they didn't know how to fix it!) I have attached a photo of what the engine area looked like when I dropped the car off today and would truly appreciate any help as to what this may be. Many thanks in advance. Les Johnson.
  15. I am hoping that someone out there can PLEASE help me? I bought a 2008 Mondeo Zetec 1.8 TDCi (6 speed) from a used car dealership 2 months ago. To cut a long story short, the car has been back into the garage on numerous occasions for a couple of different faults (air con not working, car wouldn't start first time when turning key) and today a mass of white smoke came out from the rear of the car whilst driving along the motorway at 60mph. When I pulled in and lifted the bonnet there was (what I can only describe as) an explosion of liquid (see attached photo) Whether this is oil, water or coolant, I don't know as I'm not mechanically minded. I was able to drive the car 2 miles to the garage as I was in the area but wouldn't have liked to have driven it further! It did seem to takes for the engine to cool when I stopped after it happened! My problem is, knowing how useless the garage has been to date with previous issues with this car, they will take ages to find and rectify this fault, so I am asking for any ideas as to what may have happened so I can hopefully speed up the process of getting my fixed and back in my possession (on one occasion they had the car for 10 days and had to send it out to another garage to fix because they didn't know how to fix it!) I have attached a photo of what the engine area looked like when I dropped the car off today and would truly appreciate any help as to what this may be. Many thanks in advance. Les Johnson.
  16. I am hoping that someone out there can PLEASE help me? I bought a 2008 Mondeo Zetec 1.8 TDCi (6 speed) from a used car dealership 2 months ago. To cut a long story short, the car has been back into the garage on numerous occasions for a couple of different faults (air con not working, car wouldn't start first time when turning key) and today a mass of white smoke came out from the rear of the car whilst driving along the motorway at 60mph. When I pulled in and lifted the bonnet there was (what I can only describe as) an explosion of liquid (see attached photo) Whether this is oil, water or coolant, I don't know as I'm not mechanically minded. I was able to drive the car 2 miles to the garage as I was in the area but wouldn't have liked to have driven it further! It did seem to take ages for the engine to cool when I stopped after it happened! My problem is, knowing how useless the garage has been to date with previous issues with this car, they will take ages to find and rectify this fault, so I am asking for any ideas as to what may have happened so I can hopefully speed up the process of getting my fixed and back in my possession (on one occasion they had the car for 10 days and had to send it out to another garage to fix because they didn't know how to fix it!) I have attached a photo of what the engine area looked like when I dropped the car off today and would truly appreciate any help as to what this may be. Many thanks in advance. Les Johnson.
  17. My 2003 1.6 Zetec has a leak in the Air con condenser, and I need a new one. After trying a new unit that would not fit we realised that my car has a combined Radiator/condenser, that will not split apart. Apparently this in uncommon say Ford, and this type of combined unit from them is over £300. Can anyone please advise if they know a good aftermarket supplier for a new unit, or, do I have to try to find one from the car breakers?, or does anyone have one for sale?
  18. My 2003 1.6 Zetec has a leak in the Air con condenser, and I need a new one. After trying a new unit that would not fit we realised that my car has a combined Radiator/condenser, that will not split apart. Apparently this in uncommon say Ford, and this type of combined unit from them is over £300. Can anyone please advise if they know a good aftermarket supplier for a new unit, or, do I have to try to find one from the car breakers?, or does anyone have one for sale?