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Found 25 results

  1. Having had a few stalling issues I think I may have traced it to this dangly boi: I found him nesting on the passenger side of the fuel tank and I believe him to be a vacuum hose somehow related to the evap system (something I know very little about other than there are a lot of hoses and they are everywhere!). Based on the curves, It feels like he wants to live somewhere near the cylindrical thing that's on the fuel tank (charcoal canister?): Does anyone have any idea where this thing is supposed to connect to? I think it comes from the evap solenoid (cylindrical thing with an electrical connector, bolted onto the intake manifold in such a way that it seems like an afterthought) and is part of the fuel vapour system. I also assume it's pretty important that it is connected to something and I also suspect that it may have snapped off of something too as the plastic feel sharp and pointy (you might be able to see it in the picture). Any advice REALLY appreciated as i've spent hours trying to solve this blasted stalling problem!
  2. Hi everyone, Hoping someone can point me in right direction! Ive Ford Focus 1.6 MK2 petrol, 2007 Zetec. When I drive the car if I dip the clutch the revs drop to 400/500rpm and it cuts out. If I sit and rev car whilst idling and then stop the revs again will drop to 400/500 and then gradually pick up to the correct idle level. ive seen the MK2 doesn’t have an idle control valve to clean which seemed to solve the same issue on the MK1 Focus so ive no idea what to do to solve the problem?! Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  3. Hi my mk1 Sierra 1.6 pinto keeps cutting out on me when I’m slowing down at junctions and I can’t fully close the choke if anyone as any info that could help be much appreciated
  4. Hi, My diesel fiesta has just started stalling on start up. It now does it every time when the car has been left a while i.e., when the engine is cold. It will fire on the first attempt but immediately run down and konk out, with immediate repeated attempts seeing the engine turn over vigorously but not firing. At this stage there is an engine malfunction warning. If I return after 30 minutes and warily keep the engine turning over with a little pressure on the accelerator the engine usually fires. When it fires I maintain high revs until it warms up. Once warmed up the car, engine, idle speed, etc., are excellent in every way, and should I stop when warm it will restart without any difficulty. When warm the engine malfunction warning disappears.. It seems to me that as the car works perfectly when warm it must be a heat as opposed to lack of fuel, computer or pressure issue, leading me to suspect the glow plugs. The car and its glow plugs have done 80k miles. I see online that many Ford diesel car owners have suffered a similar start up issue to this but alas I cannot find a posted solution to the problem. Can anyone help with a diagnosis? The car is regularly serviced, has a brand new battery and wants for nothing. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hi, i am after some advice - I have a failing EGR Valve and I was wondering if it's better to clean it/replace it or just blank it off? Two different garages have told me two different things...
  6. anyone know reason why my car is stalling? Its a 09 focus 1.6 tdci with a DPF. and i have no warning lights or messages on my display. driving home today, it began jerking when acceleration, but not from a standing start, but did stop for a while. then later on, under light acceleration again whilst already doing 20+mph the engine stalled. I pulled over and tried to restart the engine and it seemed hesitant to start, and after 4/5 seconds it stalled again, this time just idling in neutral as i hadn't moved off. it did this for a good 10 minutes. then finally it hung on long enough for me to drive home, luckily i was less than a mile from home. after getting back i tried to rev the engine to see if there was something that needed a bit of shifting, and whilst revving up to only about 3K rpm i noticed a slight whistle sound, and then when i stopped revving, when the engine came back to idle, it made a sound that i can only describe as passing wind or the noise a horse makes when it blows it lips. Any ideas what this might be? there was another sound though, when i turned the engine off, there was a decently loud whirring noise, that sounded electrical that was hard to pinpoint, but sounded like it was coming from just behind the engine and slightly to the left (looking at the car head on) somewhere around the brake fluid tank. my instant thoughts to the stalling / jerking was possibly the injectors need cleaning, or the fuel filter may need replacing, or the fuel line may have a problem. any thoughts on the (many) other issues would be appreciated.
  7. Hi, In the last couple of days my Focus has been choking seemingly randomly. Its normally after turning down a road or accelerating after a roundabout - I brake for a corner/roundabout in neutral or in gear then afterward I depress the clutch, select a gear appropriate to the speed and i'm going and then as I raise the clutch and depress the accelerator (as you do) the car chokes. This has happened fairly regularly anyway since I bought the car in May, but before it has choked for a second then sorted itself out and I just assumed it was the way I was driving it and it wasn't used to me. Now when it does this it doesn't sort itself out and engine management light comes on. The car just sputters and jumps like a kangaroo even with the accelerator depressed fully, until it either comes to a stalling stop or I restart the engine. This also happened yesterday when I was cruising at about 55mph for 10-15 minutes, i noticed the light come on and then the car started to stutter a bit but before I lost too much speed I restarted the engine and it was fine, the light went away. I've also noticed that I'm having to put a lot more revs into pulling away. Normally I would pull away pretty slowly due to the car but now I'm having to plant the accelerator. If I don't then the car loses power again. I've had a look through various forums and seen things like egr valve, dpf filter, etc but I just wanted to see what your opinions are. We did clean what we could of the egr valve yesterday and had a quick look under the bonnet but can't see anything obvious. I've called RAC this morning to see if they can find any error codes but I'm not sure because the light goes away. Thanks
  8. Hi, I have a Ford Focus Zetec 1.8 Petrol 58 plate and up until last Wednesday it was perfect. On Wednesday morning, after I had started the engine and driven off (no problems), when I got to the end of the road I noticed that the steering had locked - I couldn't turn the wheel at all. Looking at the dials, the engine management light had come on, followed by the oil light and then the battery light. It was if the car had stalled but without coughing - the engine had completely cut out. Turning the engine off and on again solved the issue and I carried on with my day. Come Wednesday lunch time the same thing happened again - only this time the engine wouldn't start. I waited about 5 mins before trying the start the car again and it worked. Took it to my local garage. The garage said they'd spoken to Ford's Technical garage and that it's a known fault. It's a wiring issue but they don't know which wire causes it (not sure if it's a different wire for each car), they've done a code read and found one or two but they couldn't find anything relating to my issue. They couldn't replicate it. Apparently, if they can find the fault, they can cut it out. It happened again this morning. Has anyone else experienced the same thing? Is there anything I can do to help fix the problem?
  9. This seems a common problem with the Fiesta 1.25 MK4 (1999) but while I've seen many posts describing the problem I've never seen anyone to say they've found the cure. Car starts fine, idles about 1100rpm. For the first half mile the car drives fine. Then at next junction, when you dip the clutch the engine either cuts out or idles so low the alternator light comes on. After about another half mile the engine is beginning to heat up and all is well for the rest of the trip. There are no other problems with the engine - lots of power and very economical. It has only covered 22k miles. So far I've: Put in a new thermostat, when I bought the car the thermostat was stuck open and I suspect it was like that a long time. It now reaches full temperature. New coil and ignition leads Cleaned the idle air control valve - looked spotless anyway. Cleaned the TMAP sensor Took off the throttle position sensor but not much can be done with this from a cleaning point of view With an OBD reader attached I monitored the engine coolant temperature sensor, the throttle position sensor and the incoming air temperature from cold start to engine reaching full temperature and all looks normal. All the little rubber vacuum hoses are intact. So, now am thinking of changing a few sensors. I believe the lambda sensor shouldn't cause a problem at cold idling but can affect hot idling so am ruling that out? I think it's either the throttle position sensor (TPS) or the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) - even though the OBD reader indicates they seem to be fine. Has anyone bought these from ebay and would they recommend buying from there? They are a lot cheaper than main dealer parts or motor factor parts. Would they be good enough to at least prove the fault? One other thing - there is not engine management light (MIL) on the dash. It doesn't even come on when the ignition is switched on initially. There is no mention in the warning lights section of the user manual of one. Did these cars not have a MIL light?
  10. I have a 2005 Ford Fusion 1.4 Duratec with 45000miles since I had it it's had a rough idle and recently it's been occasionally stalling as you slow down at junctions. I have changed the plugs and leads and fitted a new coil pack, I have also changed the pre cat o2 sensor and cleaned out the throttle body none if this has had any improvement. I borrowed a diagnostic machine and run a live test on the 02 sensors the pre cat sensor fluctuates as I believe it should then the post cat sensor also fluctuates between 0v and 9v when I hold the revs at 2000rpm I am not sure if this is normal or not I thought maybe a problem with the cat as the previous owner only used to do short journeys. I just don't know what to look for next
  11. Ok so I bought this car earlier in the year. Has been fantastic for my family especially getting to hospital appointments with my daughter (she has a rare condition) My car, a 53 plate fiesta finesse was due mot 22nd Dec so I took it early. Arnold Clark found it needed a middle section of exhaust and three brake pipes. Got these all replaced at small garage and car was taken back for retest and passed! Got car home and since driver has brought it back it's had nothing but problems. This morning it was starting but unless reved it would cut out while idle. As the day went on it has stalled at every junction, roundabout and when lowering speed. The steering lock (yes the steering completely locks!) has completely locked after stalling a number of times (I ended up on pavement at one point as I was turning into the road!) AC want nothing to do with it as he only looked at car for mot and didn't touch anything. Another garage replaced fuel pump and I'm now stalling at a couple junctions but steering wheel still locking. Have spent 400 so far and at my wits end!! Garage noted rev counter shoots up and down too. All before Xmas too! Terrified to drive it and can't put kids in it. The car has v clean engine, and only 67000 miles so shouldn't be doing all this surely?!!
  12. Hi there new to the owners club and forums, can anyone shed any light on my issue. I have only had the car for about a week and today after starting our car and driving a short way up the road the car lost power, engine light came on and then the car stalled. Has anyone had this issue before?
  13. For about 3months now my fiesta stutters/hesitates when i come to a near stand still or when in reverse, the problem is getting so bad now that it occurs almost every time i come to the stop and is preventing me from pulling away onto a roundabout quickly. Diagnostics did not highlight any problem and i have no fault codes popping up. I have changed the TMAP sensor and serviced car (incl replacing all filters), i have checked the wires on the Lamda sensors and they appear OK. I have also noticed a particularly odd hot 'electrical' smell from around the timing belt housing area immediately after the hesitation problem occurs, this has me baffled and i would rather not throw any more money at the problem until i have a better idea of what it may be. Could it be ignition coils/ht leads and if so why? I am still able to get 40mpg on a long run but by efficiency around town is in the 20s. Any help/ideas would be much appreciated please. ​Cheers, Graham
  14. Sunday night car started stalling after being stationary then pulling off. First few times started again easily but then with wife and kids in car late at night it stalled and would not start. I had all electric but dead ignition, wouldn't even turn over. RAC guy disconected the battery then reconnected and it started first time! RAC guy recons that it could be that the immobiliser kicked in as maybe there is a fault in the key and disconnecting the battery refreshed the ECU?? Can this happen whilst engine is running? I have had problems similar to this in the past but lost all power. I changed the battery (Bosch) and all was well. Then started happening again were power cut out but this seemed to be a loose clamp on the battery. Current problem is different in that I had all power but no ignition. Car seems ok again but I have lost confidence in as problem is so random. I am using the spare key on the advice of the RAC guy. I am going to take it to a garage this week but thought I would post the problem on the forum and see if anyone out there can help. Thanks.
  15. raddersturbo

    Mk1.5 Stalling After New Icv?

    Hello chaps, Got a problem that I can't get my head around - my 04 1.6 petrol has been hunting for idle a little bit and idles a bit low (worse with electrics being used and worst when engine is warm) which has been seen in countless forum posts and threads. So naturally I assumed this was the idle control valve, which I replaced. After fitting and letting it idle for a bit, all seemed well but upon driving the car, it now stalls whenever you try and roll into 1st gear or let the revs drop to idle for any reason. I thought it may have been a faulty part - was a cheap eBay job after all so I got a replacement and fitted that one, same deal. Also when you first start it up with the new valve, the engine is seriously lugging until you give it some gas. I've put the old one back on for now - anyone can shed any light on this? The symptoms with the new valve seem to be like what happens when the gearbox speed sensor is faulty, but why is it only doing it with the new part? (Also I've had no speedo problems) Finally, I have checked all the vacuum pipes and intake Mani for leaks but there appear to be none. Cheers guys
  16. raddersturbo

    Mk1.5 Stalling After New Icv?

    Hello chaps, Got a problem that I can't get my head around - my 04 1.6 petrol has been hunting for idle a little bit and idles a bit low (worse with electrics being used and worst when engine is warm) which has been seen in countless forum posts and threads. So naturally I assumed this was the idle control valve, which I replaced. After fitting and letting it idle for a bit, all seemed well but upon driving the car, it now stalls whenever you try and roll into 1st gear or let the revs drop to idle for any reason. I thought it may have been a faulty part - was a cheap eBay job after all so I got a replacement and fitted that one, same deal. Also when you first start it up with the new valve, the engine is seriously lugging until you give it some gas. I've put the old one back on for now - anyone can shed any light on this? The symptoms with the new valve seem to be like what happens when the gearbox speed sensor is faulty, but why is it only doing it with the new part? (Also I've had no speedo problems) Finally, I have checked all the vacuum pipes and intake Mani for leaks but there appear to be none. Cheers guys
  17. Car fails to start properly and will stall unless i rev the engine, then low power for a while. After driving around for a while problem disappears and Engine management light even goes off. Repairs so far; - New HT leads - New Battery - New Coil pack - New Spark Plugs - Valve timings adjusted - Oil Change. Problem only occurs once car is cold and not been used for a few hours.
  18. Hi need help with 04 1.8 tdci focus it starts fine but when I go to pull away or rev engine above 1100 revs it stalls on me starts fine again straight away but keeps stalling when I rev the engine any ideas?
  19. Hi, hope you're all well. I recently bought a 2002 Mk6 Fiesta 1.3 petrol (Duratec engine) as my first car. It had been running great until I was sat waiting in traffic the other day. All of a sudden, with the car in neutral and my foot not touching the accelerator at all, the car started to rev itself up and down - as if I was pressing down on the accelerator heavily and letting off over and over again. I turned the engine off and restarted it and it seemed fine until I approached a junction uphill in 2nd gear and it accelerated forward of its own accord! I'm a bit scared to drive it as I worry that it's going to send me shooting out into traffic. Now, when the car is sat idle, if I press down on the accelerator lightly, the car stalls and cuts out completely. Also, when slowing down to about 5mph (with the clutch down), the car stalls. When driving uphill, it feels as though the engine is misfiring and there's a lack of power for a brief second every now and then. Research online points to it being a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or something. I am clueless when it comes to cars so that means very little to me. I'd really appreciate it if anyone could point me in the right direction. Cheers.
  20. Hi, I have a problem with my 1.6L Mk1.5 Focus, in which the engine will sometimes stall when the car returns to idle, other times it will briefly idle at around 500rpm and then return. This problem is worse when the engine is warm. Let me run you through the events in case they are related: - Two days ago on the way to work, one of the cylinders stopped firing, causing the car to drop idle speed and shake violently. - Yesterday, I bought a new air filter, new NGK TR5A-10 spark plugs, HT leads and Coil Pack which fixed that problem. At this point the car was running much better, but I noticed that the Breather vacuum piping behind the inlet manifold was split and had collapsed in on itself, so I ordered one of these. - Today, I received said Breather hose and fitted, no hissing or any suction outside of the pipe that I was able to hear/feel. However now the engine is idling wrong like I mentioned before. So I went to a scrap yard and bought a new Idle Air Control Valve (as most forums I had looked at deemed this the problem) this one on the inside had a minuscule amount of carbon built up and the valve worked easy and sprung back nicely. Still does not work! I am in the process now of cleaning the old one with some Air system and Carburettor Cleaner and seeing if that will make any difference and will fit tomorrow... Has anyone else had this problem, and if so did you manage to fix it, and if yes then how so... Seems like when one job is finished there is always another one to do! Cheers, Al
  21. Hi I have a 2.0L diesel on an 11 plate. Very good car, done 86k miles and no problems until some weeks ago when starting from cold first thing the morning. It fires ok and for several seconds runs well but then develops a "misfire" and runs very lumpy. If you try an get the engine to clear by gently pressing the throttle it may run worse or even stall. After maybe 2/3 minutes the problem will apparently clear and drive on 4 cylinders but with a prnounced rattle when accelarating. As the engine warms up so the rattle will disappear. Fuel consumption and performance is good when warm/hot. If car is left for hours during the rest of the day the problem will not appear until the following morning. Left car in garage last night so it was warmer by 4 degees and problem was no where near so bad. Is there a temperature sensor that controls the cold start for example? Any other ideas please? Mike
  22. Mrmark941

    Mk3 Fiesta Problems.

    Hey guys, A little while back I bought a Mk3 fiesta with 51,000 on the clock, N reg. Now it's a nice little thing, passed the MOT (In August) and I've taxed it till June. Right, I drove from Southampton to Brighton and she was fine, the engine did flood when I was down there but we managed to get it rolling again. I've now been driving for three months(ish) and I drive about 10 miles a day (to work and back). I have noticed the following things: 1. Sometimes I put it into reverse and it just makes a ticking noise, almost like the car isn't quite in gear. 2. Sometimes the car will just stall, no I'm not bringing the clutch up too quick or anything, it'll be only sometimes it will do it. The car also takes some time to accelerate, and is sometimes a bit smokey. Now heres what I think: 1. Does this mean that my clutch is on it's way out? The car was used in Jersey before it was imported to England, I know that they would have been changing gear an awful lot as the small winding roads. (are new clutches very expensive?) 2. It's not had a service since 22,000 do you think it's over due a service? I know about the spark plugs and how much of a pain they are, many garages I've asked said they wouldn't touch them OR be held responsible if they were to break... So if they were to break would this be expensive to sort out? Cheers guys, Mark S
  23. Hi all, I bought a 2007 focus 1.6 TCDI 2 weeks ago. The car drives well apart from one issue. As soon as the revs hit the 3000 rpm mark the engine cuts out. Obviously this is a real problem when pulling out into faster moving traffic. There are no engine management lights showing, so I'm a bit stumped. Any ideas would be appreciated. Cheers, Jon
  24. I was wondering whether anyone could point me in the right direction. I have a 2002 Ford Fiesta I cannot swear to it but I think it is a duratec petrol engine. It defo is not a Zetec. The car keeps stalling is difficult to start and lacks power. My first thought was an EGR valve but I may be being misled into thinking it does not have one. I plugged a diagnostics computer in and it came up with DTC codes P0303 and P0304 misfire on cyl three and four. The plugs leads and ignition pack have been replaced but the problem persists. Has anyone else had this issue and if so what caused it?? I have not checked vacuum pressure yet but this will be my next step.
  25. Hi there, just bought a 2003 Ford Focus MP3, the car has a rough idle and stalls sometimes when started, sometimes it will rev up to 1200rpm and recover itself and other times it won't. It seems to be more prone to stall when under load (when I have the lights and fans on). It also seems underpowered (my 1.2 corsa c seems to accelerate faster). I have already cleaned the Idle control valve to little avail, replaced the air filter (which discovered a new problem - oil in there, probably over pressurising, im yet to do a compression test) and cleaned the MAF. I've ordered a new ICV and will replace tonight, if that makes no difference am I right in thinking it could be the throttle position sensor, coil pack or even lambda sensor? I don't know how I would test these without simply replacing them either? Any help would be really appreciated!