'09 Focus Estate Rear Hub Replacement


Description

A way to change rear hubs on focus estate

So the rear wheel bearings on my Focus had started to get a little bit noisy and there was some roughness when spinning them. So as I do a lot of miles i thought i would change them before they actually failed.

So, this is how I did it.

First, jack up and support vehicle in a safe manner. (chock front wheels, place car in gear, back wheel nuts off a tiny bit etc) or use a lift if your really lucky!!

STANDARD WARNING: NEVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY ON A JACK, USE STANDS, BLOCKS OR SOMETHING SIMILAR THAT CANNOT FALL OR FAIL.

So, now you have avoided creating a potential death trap. finish removing the wheel.

 

Please Ignore the fact that the 3M backing hasn't been removed, I did the brakes the day before this, but didn't have time to do the hubs and needed the car the next day, so didn't want to ruin the backing as I knew it needed to all come off again!

So This is what your going to see.

Next remove the brake caliper. This can be done by just removing the carrier bolts and removing the caliper and carrier together.

First release the brake pipe rubber from the retaining bracket, lever it out in the direction of the shock. A screwdriver works well for this if its really cruddy or just fingers.

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Once the brake line is released, you will want to take off the handbrake cable from the caliper so you can move it out of the way. 

Handbrake must be released.

If you grip the handbrake spring as shown and twist it towards the front of the car you will be able to pull the end of the cable out from the retaining clip. Needle nose pliers help for this.

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Twist as above and then you can remove the cable from the bracket.

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Now that the cable is free, pull the cable completely out of the retaining hole in the caliper, it just pulls out, there is no clip or retainer. 

 

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Now that the handbrake cable is removed unbolt the carrier and then hang the caliper so that it is out of the way and also so the brake line isn't stressed. There is a handy hole in the upper spring mount! The following picture shows the 2 bolts to remove the caliper. They are 13mm.

 

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So caliper/carrier are off. So you have this:

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Remove brake disc and set aside. Mine are new so easy to remove. old ones were seized to the hub. some tapping on the back of the disc while rotating the hub freed them off without much hassle.

Failed to get a picture of the naked hub but its pretty obvious.

So now everything is stripped off, last thing is to remove the connector from the ABS sensor in the back of the hub.

This is round the back of the hub.

Its worth noting here that it would appear my car has had bearings as it has the newer E Type Torx Bolts. The older style apparently use conventional Torx.

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The ABS sensor was a bit fiddly. This is a picture of the connector so you can see what needs releasing.

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Its the little flap with the 2 small squares on it. It needs pushed in towards the connector. This picture shows how i did it. Its a bit blurry but gives an idea.

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So now the ABS wire is removed, tuck it out of the way and let the fun begin!

So I needed an E12 Socket.

Now at this point I was very glad to have a good 3/8" ratchet. There is space to get in behind the coil spring, I had to use a long breaker bar to crack them loose to begin with.

Now the bolts are locktited and reach through the bearing a fair way. This means they are quite corroded on the ends which need to be dragged back through.

Quite honestly penetrating oil achieves nothing if just sprayed on, it does work if you can more the fastener back and forth a bit. so once you have cracked them off, this was my solution.

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Basically a big wire wheel on a drill will reach round the back of the hub face and scrub the ***** out of the threads. Turn the bolt 1/4 turn at a time and spray/scrub off the crap that breaks out of the threads, this actually meant that the bolts came out without too much trouble on the second side. (I was lazy first side and had a hell of a time!)

Now once you have the bolts moving, wind them out until there are 3-4 threads left in the hub flange. This is how you will get the hub out of the trailing arm, as it will be seized in.

So this is where you will need a long 3/8" extension bar (18 inches to 2 foot!). Put the socket on a bolt and bring the extension bar out under the car. Use a sacrificial bar as you will need to whale the ***** out of each bolt in turn to start the hub moving out.

Once it has moved a bit knock it back in from the outside and start again. 5 mins of this and mine were out.

Then you will be rewarded with this..

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The dust shield of the brakes will come off with the hub, seized on. but scrape in with a pick where the shield fits over the hub and gently work round and it should come off ok.

I'm lucky my car is relatively clean so it came apart ok.

So, once you are here, you are home free really.

assembly is the reverse of removal pretty much.

I will do a how to on the brakes as well which may help if there are any confusions.

Torque specs are as follows,

caliper carrier bolts 120Nm (I locktite mine)

Caliper pins/Bolts 28Nm

Hub retaining bolts 65Nm + locktite (tighten all to 65Nm, then back them off 90 degrees and re-tighten to 65Nm in a crosswise pattern)

 

STANDARD DISCLAIMER, THIS IS NOT A DEFINITIVE HOW TO, I GOT LUCKY WITH MINE, DIFFERENT APPROACHES MAY BE NEEDED.

I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL MECHANIC AND ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY MISHAPS YOU MAY HAVE DURING OR AFTER READING THIS GUIDE.

YOU ARE DEALING WITH SAFETY CRITICAL PARTS/ASSEMBLIES HERE, IF IN ANY DOUBT PLEASE GET A GARAGE TO DO THE JOB.

 

Hope this helps someone, if anything is wrong or needs adding then please let me know.

cheers!

Sorry about the random pictures they just inserted themselves!

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