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Roguefysh
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Hello all,

 

Hope I'm in the right place, first time posting. 

I have an issue with my key fob/remote for my '07 Focus Zetec Climate. Nothing on the remote works any more, and a new battery doesn't resolve the problem. I have a feeling the circuit board has failed or broken somewhere. What I would like to do is buy a complete replacement with blank blade, and simply take the board out of the new one and put it in my old fob, thus no programming to do. I'm slightly confused by the different replacements though. I've found several that look the same but state the chip type as Q4Q0 or 4d60 or A7D1 etc. How do I find out which chip type the current board in my remote is using? Does it even matter, or will any chip type be compatible? I can't even find anything resembling a part number on/in the fob that might help in identifying a proper replacement.

 

Any and all help welcome and thank you in advance

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I recently did just this for a work colleague.
His key wouldn't program to the RCL system and on checking the fob with a rf tester found no signal being transmitted.
I bught a key off ebay and swapped the boards over, paired it to the car and all working just fine now.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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This key here-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-BUTTON-433MHZ-REMOTE-ENTRY-KEY-FOB-FOR-FORD-MONDEO-KA-FOCUS-FIESTA-TRANSIT-K2/162482877146?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I tested the original with one of these-

595c344ddb7bb_SealeyKeyTester.jpg.0495475b6779e85a7c9da7e6e86a5565.jpg

Inside the key you will see the button side with the RCL circuit mounted on it.

it is held in place with a black plastic cage, this is heat glued in place at 2 points (2 pillars) , you need to file or cut the top of only one pillar which will allow the RCL circuit to slide out.

Between the circuit and the casing is a white plastic frame which is not found inside the key I listed above, locate the white frame over the microswitches on the new circuit and slip it all back into place.

Seal the loose black cage back to the mounting pillar using a tiny drop of cryoacetate (superglue) which will melt the plastic forming a solid bond.

595c3a051bc23_MK2KeyParts.jpg.35acad87c7969049400e677fb94ca052.jpg

The new board will look quite different with regards to circuit layout but will work no problems.

Ensure that the battery contacts are not squashed or jammed down as this will stop the RCL circuit getting power.

You may well find that on the old RCL circuit that there will be obvious discolouration on the board, this is a common problem that occurrs when keys are a few years old.

This is usually corrosion from condensation or suchlike-

595c39cd29da3_RCLCircuitWithDamage.jpg.a23ca1c78efa38adad73c0d4aaf651aa.jpg

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

This key here-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-BUTTON-433MHZ-REMOTE-ENTRY-KEY-FOB-FOR-FORD-MONDEO-KA-FOCUS-FIESTA-TRANSIT-K2/162482877146?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I tested the original with one of these-

595c344ddb7bb_SealeyKeyTester.jpg.0495475b6779e85a7c9da7e6e86a5565.jpg

Inside the key you will see the button side with the RCL circuit mounted on it.

it is held in place with a black plastic cage, this is heat glued in place at 2 points (2 pillars) , you need to file or cut the top of only one pillar which will allow the RCL circuit to slide out.

Between the circuit and the casing is a white plastic frame which is not found inside the key I listed above, locate the white frame over the microswitches on the new circuit and slip it all back into place.

Seal the loose black cage back to the mounting pillar using a tiny drop of cryoacetate (superglue) which will melt the plastic forming a solid bond.

595c3a051bc23_MK2KeyParts.jpg.35acad87c7969049400e677fb94ca052.jpg

The new board will look quite different with regards to circuit layout but will work no problems.

Ensure that the battery contacts are not squashed or jammed down as this will stop the RCL circuit getting power.

You may well find that on the old RCL circuit that there will be obvious discolouration on the board, this is a common problem that occurrs when keys are a few years old.

This is usually corrosion from condensation or suchlike-

595c39cd29da3_RCLCircuitWithDamage.jpg.a23ca1c78efa38adad73c0d4aaf651aa.jpg

 

 

 

Wow awesome Clive 🙏

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Thank you Clive. I've already had the board out and it doesn't look right to me, which is why I suspect the board has failed. I just didn't want to get a replacement key and find it didn't work because it had the wrong chip type, which is why I wanted to check here first. I knew I'd get a sensible answer, I just hadn't expected it to be quite so comprehensive. 

Thanks again

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5 hours ago, Roguefysh said:

Thank you Clive. I've already had the board out and it doesn't look right to me, which is why I suspect the board has failed. I just didn't want to get a replacement key and find it didn't work because it had the wrong chip type, which is why I wanted to check here first. I knew I'd get a sensible answer, I just hadn't expected it to be quite so comprehensive. 

Thanks again

I'm nothing if not thorough.

I have a good attention to detail and having recently done this repair the info is fresh in my head :smoke:

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You could try cleaning the board in the interim - some IPA (not beer, unfortunately) - Isopropyl Alcohol and an old toothbrush. Remove the battery beforehand, and get some fresh batteries. Corrosion is conductive to a degree, so any corrosion joining the pins of the button or chip would stop it working. 

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Thanks Ted, but I've already tried with electrical contact cleaner and no joy. I'm almost certain one or more components is/are dead. New key ordered and should be job done.

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OK, so I ordered 2 of the new keys and they have now arrived. Swapping the circuit board over did not work with either of the boards from the new keys. I can't believe all three are faulty keys. So I then tried to code the new keys using the two original keys I had. I managed to code both new keys to the immobiliser yesterday but I couldn't code either to the central locking. I had another go today, and found that both of the new keys that I'd coded to the immobiliser yesterday were no longer able to start the car, despite the fact that I started the car with both of them yesterday. Still no joy with the central locking.

Whatever the problem is, it's definitely at the car end of the equation rather than the key end. I'm thinking it may well be connected to the brand new dashboard issue I seem to have today. The LCD section of the dash is scrolling through all the various displays (mileage,fuel consumption,etc) at a rate of knots and I can't find any way to stop it. I know from my Mk1 that a dash issue can give problems in all sorts of seemingly unrelated areas. Before I start taking the dash out and taking a long look at it, has anyone seen this before, or does anyone have any other ideas?

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Hi guys sorry to but in but I have a similar problem,my three button fob won't work the rcl  but opens on the key and starts and runs fine.i have purchased of eBay a replacement fob with circuit board with same part no, and will replace the battery when it arrives and will use my half with the key and use the replacement button fob.is it then a case of the four turns of the ignition and wait for the beep then press the key fob and bobs my uncle as they say?and a tenner instead of a hundred and fifty plus,fingers crossed thans.doug

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10 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

That's all there is to it.

The procedure that works for me is turn from II to I (instead of turning from II to 0 which seems a bit hit & miss on some cars).

Thanks Clive will post when the fob arrives and have done the job.

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On 18 July 2017 at 6:01 AM, Stoney871 said:

That's all there is to it.

The procedure that works for me is turn from II to I (instead of turning from II to 0 which seems a bit hit & miss on some cars).

Thanks Clive worked a treat it is better doing II-I as it didn't do it at the first attempt at I-II. Thanks doug

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