Latest Posts

Showing topics posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Hi Kevin. Yes, try changing the fuel filter first, could be a quick cheap fix. I'm not familiar with that diagnostic computer but if its a generic one it may well miss ford specific fault codes. Forscan is free to download, you just need a laptop/mobile and elm27 usb/bluetooth connection and it will pick up all the codes for sure.
  3. Today
  4. Could fit a light bar; Wire it to a switch inside the car aswell as an "auto on" DRL relay to the Positive feed of "high beam bulb" This way; when its switched on; it automatically lights up along with your high beam lights, Heres ons I fitted to my mates mk1 Toyota yaris ๐Ÿ˜… was cheaper than headlight restoration kit or HID upgrade, got this one from Amazon has magnified lenses and larger chip set LED it's a 25" 500w 7D lightbar on a 1.0Litre Toyota yaris fits nicely in the bottom grill. Check link above:
  5. Good to see they "finally landed" at there destination though ๐Ÿ˜…
  6. The OEM antifreeze (RED) is Organic compound based ,Blue is Glycol based . Ie not compatible. Although you only put a small amount in ideally you should have the coolant replaced. As already said you should have just put water (distilled)in as the concentration could have been easily corrected later on. I would be more concerned as to why the level was on minimum.
  7. Well the hairdryer is the next one I'm going to use on Monday when I have to do the shopping and go deliver food to my parents . Needs a bit of a run to charge the battery up. Obviously I will have to put the back seats down to get shopping in boot space and my hairdressing kit.
  8. I read a post recently where @Bobr claimed he "would not touch it with a Bargepole" and because I work the night shift and I'm bored, I got to thinking.......what would you touch with a barge pole? The question is not aimed directlcy at you @Bobr and I hope you don't mind me naming you.
  9. Hi I have a 2008 ford fiesta style a few weeks ago my car hit a pot hole which broke the rear coil spring on the passenger side when I got the car home I looked at it and also found that the rear spring upper chassis mount had been broken off also .I mean the welded mount had completely broken off and I don't know where it went so I've been trying to find another mount to get welded on to my car and for the life of me I can't get on online all I can find is the upper strut mount but not the welded on upper mount for the coil spring I've tried all different options and getting nothing so really what I need to know is does anyone know where I can get one or what the correct name for it is maybe I'm looking in the wrong place or calling it the wrong thing so can anyone help thanks
  10. Hi, im a bit of a noob when it modifying cars so please excuse me if i sound a bit stupid but does anyone know if its possible to install a ST rear and front bumper to a mk3 2017 titanium ?? or would it be more practical to buy styling kit of eBay for 150 (cheaper, easier to install) ?
  11. No nothing I also reckon itโ€™s the starter motor
  12. Yesterday
  13. New member from Glasgow. Just passed test at 34 ๐Ÿ˜‚ late to the party! Just bought a Fiesta EcoBoost 1.0 Look forward to picking some of your brains ๐Ÿ˜‚
  14. First of all those are the "live" cables and before doing any work on them you should disconnect the earth cable on the other battery post. I think that looks worse than it is. If you take it off the battery post and give it and the post a really thorough clean up with a wire brush and/or sandpaper then liberally coat both with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and refit it I would say it will be fine. Actually the Haynes manual says that the deposit can be cleaned off and neutralised by washing with a solution of sodium bicarbonate (baking powder) followed by a good rinse with clean water. The only slight issue is that the plastic sleeve over the connector ferrule on the right-hand one of those cables has split and opened up. It would be possible to detach the connector, remove the split sleeve and replace it with shrink sleeve but assuming you don't have the facilities to do that I would just pull the sleeve away and put some insulation tape around the ferrule.
  15. Started Saturday with a visit to local scrap yard to see if they have anything new in. They, did !!! a facelift ZtecS same colour. Got myself a door and headlights paid 60 for the lot, I think quite good price, bear in mind my haggle skills are superior. Dented one on the left ( not by me) I had taken the trims off already, turns out they are different. It's a 2 door Fiesta ! I need to find how to effectiveley remove the old trim glue and get a new trim glue. Any suggestions ? But this is the end result, I thought it will be a lot easier ๐Ÿ˜„ taking the window out was a pain.
  16. Fan issue was just a loose connection. Tried a few different things; steering module is getting a good 12v dropping slightly on cranking. Pins on the multi plug are 12v on one and signal voltage on the rest. Car will start with the heavy +ve and groung cables disconnected. Won't start with the multi plug disconnected and shows the immobiliser red light so obviouslt the steering ecu needs signals from somewhere to work. Still haven't found a proper wiring diagram to see where everything connects. I am tempted just to put a replacement steering column in but the mystery remains as to why the steering ecu solenoid only clicks into operation at the second time of asking.
  17. Tbh i wouldn't even bother with it. Its just an unnecessary wear on the Starter, Cylinder walls and turbo.
  18. Check that the boot switch has the little vents/ drains on it if not its the unrevised style ones you got which are crap.
  19. Just spoke to my son and he told me he is making medical parts for Mercedes's F1, land rover, and Harley Davidson at the engineering works he started as apprentice a few months ago. That must be for the ventilators there making.
  20. The PATS system could be playing up. If you've got it, hook the car up to forscan and see what it says.
  21. could maybe need a service or the core plugs in the head are leaking causing the spark plugs to play up.
  22. Could be the throttle body is on its way out. Quite common once they get to an age.
  23. Wouldn't touch it with a bargepole.
  24. They mightโ€™ve charged it up when it arrived, and it stayed just long enough for me to get it home. It had only been for sale a week, and Iโ€™ve only done two short journeys in it since I got it lol. It is certainly a PITA though!
  25. Tbf if they're all gathering around these masts it'll only take one with Corona to take them all out... They won't be socially distancing or coughing considerately as they don't believe it's spread like that....
  26. Never heard back from the seller so have been looking at these : https://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-denso-iridium-power-spark-plugs-ikh22-ikh22-267700-2650-2677002650-5345.html Does anyone know if they are any good? And I am really unsure about the heat rating, can someone tell me if these will be suitable for a standard ST225, definitely looking to go the iridium route. Thanks
  27. Yeh that's what I've seen when looking into one and seeing the videos on YouTube https://www.mountunestore.com/collections/mk3-focus-st-mca-2015/products/differential-fitting-kit-1 Jump to 7:35
  28. Good evening all, I have an issue with my dive truck (a Ford Maverick 2.0 XLT 2002 model). A while ago some useless little ***** bashed out the passenger side window just for laughs and giggles it seems. Nothing stolen - radio etc left inside unmolested. I have had the window replaced by PG Autoglass (two attempts as on their first attempt the battery was completely dead and they couldn't open the door). Anyhoo, window was successfully replaced but now the battery doesn't last more than a day or two before being too weak to start the car. As I use it mainly on weekends to go diving (lots of diving equipment and tanks to carry around). I have installed an aftermarket solar trickle charger to try and keep the battery topped up but to no avail. I still have to jump start the damn thing whenever I actually want to use it. Alternator and battery was new (replaced just before the break-in or vandalism whatever you want to call it) so that's good. I am thinking that the factory alarm is thinking the window is open and therefore won't go into sleep mode thus running down the battery. Any ideas for an easy fix? I don't want to spend thousands of pounds having an auto electrician look at it. I bought it for 900 pounds and spent a few hundred fixing it up so it passes the MOT and I can use if t for diving. I am at the point of calling it quits and getting rid of it (don't really want to but can't be arsed with a vehicle that isn't mechanically and electrically sound). Any help would be much appreciated
  1. Load more activity






  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up