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  2. It is indeed a Mk 1 Granada, 4 door saloon. Low spec model unless it's been poorly repaired for prop use, the GLX & Ghia had nicer front grills than that.
  3. The headlights look excellent Zain, nice one!!
  4. tef89

    GPS saga again

    You can do it whilst driving (if safe of course). Press and hold both the POWER and >>> (Scan forward) buttons for a few seconds. The screen will go black and it will soft reboot the Sync system.
  5. Today
  6. Try another garage , see what they say. If a 2014 plate and reg book states 2014 then its a 2014.
  7. Don't know how I missed it, it was a big hole on the back of the plastic resonator pipe that's right on top of the engine. £25 on eBay to fix. I'll let you know how it goes replacing it.
  8. iantt thanks for good suggestion only need to find where it's located on this model.
  9. Brilliant, just ordered one from eBay. Definitely the fault, has a big hole in the back that it's leaking air from. Car was lacking boost also. I hope the new one fairs a little better. Much appreciated all of you.
  10. Yeah, but I think the relay could be intergrated into the bcm . The bcm is the fusebox in the passengers footwell
  11. Guys. Does anyone know of any good spots for car photography around Essex? I live in Basildon and i'm looking for somewhere to get some nice shots of my car with some decent backgrounds. There aren't any graffiti walls around my local area, the one in Chelmsford has gone. Anybody know of any? Also maybe some nice scenic views and stuff. Post some shots if you have any of your own car photo's. Cheers
  12. If you're bored with your car so you can modify attractive parts. Car tuning is the modification of the performance. Most vehicles stay stock for an average driver's expectations and conditions, although tuning has become a way to personalize the characteristics of a vehicle to the owner's preference. if you are looking for best SEO institute in rohini so you can visit us for more details of courses
  13. Hello everyone, I own a ford focus 2014 and it has a key-less feature, so today while shopping i tried to change my parking when i tried to start the car it didn't let me and it gave me (Steering Lock Malfunction Service now) and the lock was engaged, so i had to insert my key and start the car manually, it worked and the lock disengaged and my car was working normally, again when i finished shopping i tried to open my car with my key-less remote, it didn't let me as if the car doesn't indicates the key, so i opened the car manually, also the car didn't recognize the key inside and couldn't turn on, i got the (Steering Lock Malfunction Service now) message again, but this time the Steering lock was not engaged, and i can move the steering wheel while the car is switched off as much as i want and it wont lock, and it wont allow me to start the car manually neither with the key-less feature, i tried changing the key-less remote battery it didn't work, i tried switching the car on and off many times and it didn't let me, i unplugged the car battery for an hour, and the car was able to start, everything goes to normal, but if i turn off the car and it detects that the steering lock isn't working and it goes again not letting me start the car and not detecting the key. i checked also the fuse box it seems to be working fine does anyone have any answers for this or have experienced the same before? i would really appreciate any help as our dealer ship is gonna charge me a fortune and is known to be a fraud. Thanks
  14. Yesterday
  15. Edit to the above, I ran my update by downloading directly from the Ford website and updating via USB. The volume issue now appears fixed. Still need to go into ford about my rattling though!
  16. My 1.6 sport ka has been suffering with an intermittent fuel consumption issue lately where some days I get 50 miles for £10 which is normal and other days barely 33. These and the streetka aren’t the most fuel efficient engines but 20p per mile is acceptable. i just checked that all HT leads etc were on properly etc then I noticed a pipe coming from the fuel rail sensor I believe wasn’t connected to anything. Should this just be hanging by the ICV to allow air out or should this be connected somewhere? I’ve pictured the pipe in question hoping somebody can tell me what it does and perhaps help with the heavy fuel consumption.
  17. Wire them via a secondary live feed to the sidelight cable on the headlight switch and they'll stay on when headlights / sidelights are on. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  18. There is a general design flaw with the Ford sockets used at that stage. The contacts are all in the back half of the socket but the front half is the bit that locks into the trim and clamps the back half together. When the clamps get worn the back half of the socket moves and causes the socket to get deeper and the contacts don't line up with the 3.5 plug anymore. Pull the gear gaiter off, pull out the cable connector, squeeze the front & rear halves back together then loop an elastic band tightly around the socket, this will hold the clamps tighter against the back half and stop any movement. If you plug in the 3.5 cable and leave it in place then that should also help as repeated insertion will also push the rear half down again. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  19. Will these work for the two wires ends I’ve got to put in Thanks
  20. 2014 Mk7.5, the facelift of what you have. No difference at all in terms of the wheel arches/suspension.
  21. Have you noticed any handling difference with that? Just curious as to me it's just a long bar.
  22. Ben24


    Thank you I have tried that already, however still no luck. Anything else I should try and do
  23. Hi al,l I am wondering if anyone can help me out, I need a full set of standard RS springs for my Mk1 Focus RS, and I finding it hard to source new ones. I would also be happy if anyone could tell me that the springs have the same OEM number as an RS Mk2 Focus etc. Thanks a million
  24. I fit a tonne of Pagid stuff every week so I suspect it's something they are doing, or not doing.
  25. not sure what the striker plates look like on these, but they are usually adjustable, loosen slightly and move outwards by eg. 1mm
  26. Don't you just hate it when threads / advice does not show what the conclusion was. So here goes: Yipee! Car is now running again. Started by doing Ohm test on OBD socket. It showed 120 (so a break somewhere). I looked at the engine fuse box connector (c90) looked OK. Took the trim panel off just ahead of the front passenger door. There were two big block connectors here. A larger black one and a smaller grey one below it. The black one did not seem to have canbus (grey/red and blue/red thin wires) in it. The grey one did. There was some minor corrosion in the grey one. Cleaned it up. Ohms still showing 120. (this car is a mk2.5 so maybe different to what peter describes) back to c90 . whilst my brother watched the ohmeter i pulled c90 in and out and found that intermittently the ohms dropped to 60. I concentrated on the two pins for the canbus wires (grey/red and blue/red thin wires). they looked OK but ohms weren't steady. so what I did here was bent the two pins with thin nosed pliers into a slight curve to create more contact pressure. I also took the red plastic insert out of the bottom of the plug, then squashed the connectors a little and put red bit back in. After doing this the ohms seemed steady 60. But after putting tools away found car failed to start again and ohms back to 120. Now got to work on the grey connector ahead of passenger door again. Found contact intermittent here so gave those contacts same treatment as c90. car now seems OK (optimistic but it's only just been done and not had a long test). The contact cleaner I was using dries very quickly and leaves no residue. Would in be better if the terminals had something on them like vaseline/petroleum jelly applied sparingly? Thanks Peter, my brother was on the verge of towing the car to the scrapyard. Hope it keeps going fine, at least if it plays up again we have some idea of what to twiddle with at the roadside. If these connectors cause more trouble I think bypassing them with some long lengths of wire soldered on will give more confidence that it won't keep doing it.
  27. Thanks again Ian. Your a life saver.
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