Glow Plugs For 1.8Tdci
Posted 09 January 2013 - 03:25 PM
I took off the engine cover, then the intercooler cover. I then removed the intercooler by undoing the 4 bolts holding it on and undoing the 2 jubille clips on the hoses. You might want to clean this before putting it back as the cooling fins are often blocked with crap.
I then started with the plug on the left hand side of the engine, use a 6 mm socket to loosen the terminal nut on the plug. be VERY careful not to drop the nut as it comes off, or you will never find it again. I used needle nose pliers to pull off the nut once it is loose enough. Use a 10 mm socket to undo the plug and remove it. Put some copper grease on the threads of the new plug (mine were Bosch, £30 for 4 on eBay) and insert it into the head. Tighten it up carefully making sure it is lined up properly so you don't mis-thread it. Clean the top of the plug terminal and the plug supply tag and put the tag on the terminal of the plug. The tricky bit is getting the 6 mm nut back on without losing it. I put a small piece of tissue paper inside the socket and pushed the nut into it, so that it would not fall out of the socket when turned upside down. Then as the nut gets tightened on the thread of the terminal it will come free from the socket. Repeat the procedure on the next two plugs. For the righthandmost plug you will need to move the dip stick out of the way. Undo the bolt holding it onto the block with an 8 mm socket. Use a 7 mm socket to unscrew the glow plug power cable from the dip stick tube.
Some people have opted for just pushing the tube out of the way, I did this and then wished I hadn't. The tube came away from the block at the bottom and it had fallen to bits at the joint. I didn't use much force and I suspect the last person to replace the plugs did the damage. I had to use needle nose pliers to get the remains of the tube tip and seal out of the hole on the engine block. So I recommend once the tube is unbolted, pull it upwards carefully to release it from the block and unclip the cable clip that is attached to it. This should reduce the risk of damage to the tube.
Once the last plug is in, re-assemble everything in reverse order. You might want to loosely connect the intercooler and turn the engine over, remove the intercooler again and check for oil leaks from the dip stick tube joint.
The job should take less than an hour, even doing it for the first time.
Hope that is of some use to people...
Certainly DO NOT pay the best part of £200 to get someone else to do it (and probably snap your dip stick tube in the process!!!)
Posted 09 January 2013 - 05:11 PM
One word of caution - I found the fins of the intercooler to be very fragile and easily bent and broken. I would think the best way to clean it, if you have the facility, would be to 'reverse flush' it using an air line. I didn't have that option and tried to do it with a spray from a hose (NOT a pressure washer!!) but it wasn't wholly successful.
Posted 24 January 2013 - 03:34 PM
The comments from "Reluctant Ford Owner" are brilliant sounding (thanks!) so I'm aiming to use it as a guide, though being of sub-amateur level when it comes to car mechanics I could use a little assist.
Since lifting the engine lid reveals (to me) a maze of mechanical wonder, would anyone be able to supply a quick photograph of the engine bay where the glow plugs are located just to give me a starter for ten?
I will likely have a mate on standby to help, but I'd really prefer to learn this sort of thing myself, you know.
Any help is very much appreciated
Posted 25 January 2013 - 01:32 PM
Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:41 AM
Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:11 PM
So, I initially took a look at the engine and being a total engine noob, I bailed and then enlisted some assistance from my uncle who had every single ratchet piece on the planet. I tell you, he's got parts big enough to spin the planet itself, and parts small enough to perform microsurgery. In Metric and Imperial!
Anyway, in the end the job was indeed fairly simple although quite fiddly. We didn't have to remove anything except the plugs themselves. We found even the rightmost plug was easy enough to remove if you have the right angular ratchet bits to get in behind the dipstick holder. Catching the small 6mm screws that hold the plate to the plug was harder than removing the plugs themselves. It just took some dexterity of the fingers to catch them as they reached the end of the thread.
One tip I can offer is that I had in my toolkit an extendable magnetic pickup tool. This was ideal for getting the screws back on again as I could pop them on the end of the tool and get them started on the thread before switching to fingers and ratchet.
But now the important result. Replacing the glow plugs did indeed cure my starting problem. Admittedly I haven't had a very cold day since they were replaced - it's cold, but not freezing - but starting has been smooth as a smooth thing so far. I'm happy with the result.
What annoys me is I had the car serviced and told them of the specific issues. No fix. In fact, the garage claimed there was a rattle from near the fuel pump or water pump and I should see a diesel specialist. So I did, who changed the fuel filter, but still no fix.
So in the end, a quick Google, a hit on this site, this post, and this advice cures my ails. Thanks to y'all for your tips and info.
Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:29 PM
Will look at doing my own soon
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