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2005 1.6 TDCI boost issue


Gavpeds
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Hi all, I have an issue with lack of boost. 

If I explained what happened leading up to this it might help I don't know. 

 

So firstly my boost would always kick in about 1500 revs. Over time I found I could no longer take the revs over 3000 when driving as it would throw the car into limp mode. 

Garage couldn't find anything. So just drove without pushing the revs. 

Then one morning pulling off a junction the car stuttered, caughed and threw out a bit of black smoke and since then the boost doesn't kick in until about 2500 revs. The odd thing is I can now rev past 3000 when driving and don't get limp mode anymore. 

Taken it to the garage they couldn't find any error codes. They tried to capture a snapshot of what the car was doing when driving on the computer but it recorded nothing. They said they could also feel the lack of boost but could not find anything obvious. 

I have checked the turbo fins and all look fine there is very slight play but it is very slight. 

Can't see any pipes off and have cleaned the maf sensor. 

Does anyone have any ideas as to why my boost has suddenly gone from kicking in at 1500 revs to now not kicking in until 2500 revs? 

 

Thanks

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Is it a 110 model?

Sounds like the turbo vanes were stuck closed and are now stuck open.  You should be getting some fault codes though, very odd there aren't any!

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Yeah it is the 110 model. That's what I thought when they said. They were surprised no not be getting any error codes as well. The only then they got which I am not sure was a specific error code or just their observations was loss in boost pressure. 

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Reading on this a bit more after you mentioned the vanes being stuck. I think this could possibly be the issue.

I had only checked the cold side of the turbo as was reluctant to go taking everything apart but now I have come across the Mr muscle turbo clean videos and wonder if this is worth a go on the hot side of the turbo to hopefully clear out the crap and loosen them. My question is has anyone tried this? My concern is Mr muscle might break down the crud but where does said crud then go? Will it cause further issues or just be burnt off after a good drive? 

At this point I don't want to get a new turbo the car isn't worth it so just looking at what I can try without to much cost before I just call it a day and get rid. 

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Realistically there isn't an easy fix for sticky vanes, but at least the turbo is easily accessible on these.  With the Mr Muscle you'd need to remove the DPF for access anyway, so by that point  you might as well remove the turbo and strip the hotside to clean the vanes properly.  If you did just want to remove the DPF without the turbo, spray in the mr muscle and then work the actuator to free the vanes.  You could briefly run the engine without the DPF attached to blow any loose carbon out, it'll just get stuck in the DPF otherwise.  

You can buy some fuel additives that are meant to clean the vanes but it hasn't worked for me.

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Thanks yeah put some turbo cleaner additive in the diesel last month but didn't do anything.

Hmm well might look at spraying it in place but see how I go might end up taking it out completely. 

When you say removing the dpf could I not just get away with removing the brackets connecting the dpf to the turbo and pulling out the way a little rather than removing the whole dpf? 

Also you mentioned running it briefly with the dpf off do you mean as in the picture? Run with nothing connected to the turbo? 

ford.jpg.74fa9f40cd5e057bce70bd6b916b419b.jpg

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The DPF is fairly solid against the block, I don't think you'll be able to push it out of the way enough without full removal.  On the mk2 there isn't a flexible section at the bottom of the DPF either so even removing the bolts that hold it to the block may not allow enough room.  You could always try it and keep removing things until you get enough room.  I've only fully removed the DPF myself so not taken much notice of the access part way.

Yes, exactly as the picture, you won't do any harm running the engine without the DPF briefly.  Might get a fault code for DPF temp or pressure but they can be cleared afterwards.  I'd probably protect that close rubber boost pipe from the heat with a metal tray or something if doing that.

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Brilliant thanks. Yeah I did wonder if it would move enough or not. Guess I will have to do as you say just keep removing bits until I get enough room. Thanks for your help will give this a go when I have a spare bit of time. 👍

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Just a quick question. I had a look this eve and the actuator rod moves up and down freely. So I am wondering if this is moving then are the vanes stuck or more likely something is broken in which case is there really any point me wasting time taking it all apart.

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If the rod moves freely through it's full travel then the vanes aren't stuck with carbon so that's a good sign.  It's still possible for the vane control ring to be worn which causes it to stick at the extreme ends of the vane travel but there's no way to tell that without taking it apart.

It could be the boost solenoid at fault, can you watch the turbo rod while someone else starts the engine?  The rod should move.  There should also be some movement when revved though not much without a bit of load which is hard to recreate stationary.

I'd probably suggest an ELM cable and Forscan as the next step in diagnosing this issue, the cables only cost about £15 and the software is free.  As well as Ford specific fault codes it can also read live data like vane position and boost pressure etc.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've found the problem I think! 

 

So while the car was stationary and running I pulled the vacuum pipe off the actuator. There was barely any vacume. On closer inspection at the other end of that pipe where it connects to the engine it's all spit! 

 

Does anyone know where to get that pipe or if it has a part number? 

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Vac pipes aren't often sold separately at the dealer but I can check for part numbers later.  Likely to be easier and cheaper to buy some generic vac pipe at any car parts place, just check the internal diameter and cut it to length.

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Thanks. Just went to Halfords to get some went to see if I could get pip off to realise it actually hasn't got a damn hole in it after all. Blond moment or just wishful thinking. 

That's it I'm done with the crappy car.

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