Hardwire Dashcam - Acc and VCC

[Guest]

Hi guys, I have a DDPai mini 3 dash cam that requires hardwiring. 

I have a Ground wire (connect to body), a yellow wire (VCC) and a red wire (ACC). 

To which fuses can I safely connect to within the passenger fusebox? One is for constant power and the other is switched with the ignition. I've looked on Google, read the instructions and watched some videos, but none are very helpful, I just need someone to be very clear and explain it as if I'm retarded. 

 

I think I have fusebox type 1, the lowest amount of fuses (stuff I don't have). 

 

I have it connected already but I don't think it's right. I've connected constant power to a spare slot with constant and switched power to a 7.5amp which is next to a 10amp fuse on the right side. But take this out your mind and tell me from fresh please. 

 

My car is a 2009 Ford Fiesta Zetec S MK7

 

Thanks 

[Luke4efc]

That seems incredibly complicated for a dashcam install. Usually you just have the positive and negative wires to the bodywork and a switched live.

Personally I think these hardwire kits are a waste of money. I've always installed another 12v socket behind the glovebox and connected the cable you get with the dashcam. Works out at less than half the price and can easily be removed. I use a piggback fuse holder and tap switched power from the rear wiper. The existing 20A fuse goes in the bottom, and the 5A fuse in the top for the dash cam socket.

Other hardwire kits just come with a red an black wire which just piggybacks off the same place as before, just no socket for an easy disconnection.

[Guest]

2 hours ago, Luke4efc said:

That seems incredibly complicated for a dashcam install. Usually you just have the positive and negative wires to the bodywork and a switched live. 

Right! But the camera has a time-lapse function for when you're parked up, so if anyone bumps you it'll pick them up. A constant live is required for this and then switched ignition power is required to tell the cam whether the car is turned on or not to use the correct recording option. 

It will turn the camera off itself when it detects that the car battery voltage drops to a specified limit. 

The hardwire kit came with the camera so cost doesn't come into it really. It's as you said, piggyback fuse holders, 2amp for the cam and insert original fuse. 

I just need to know the two fuse locations I can use. I don't want to unwittingly use a pre existing airbag fuse or something important. 

So just, one constant live (that's safe to use) and one switched live (that's safe to use) 

Somebody help me pleaseee! 😔 

[Luke4efc]

Ahh oh fair enough. As I say rear wiper for switched live. It doesn't matter if that stops working.

Then the radio for perm live, if that blows you'll know straight away. If you set up your piggy back fuse holder corretly then it shouldn't make any difference what you tap off as the circuits will be independent. 

[Guest]

2 hours ago, Luke4efc said:

Ahh oh fair enough. As I say rear wiper for switched live. It doesn't matter if that stops working.

Then the radio for perm live, if that blows you'll know straight away. If you set up your piggy back fuse holder corretly then it shouldn't make any difference what you tap off as the circuits will be independent. 

Now we're getting somewhere... Do you know the location of these within the fusebox? 😌 

I've currently got it setup like this (picture below), but it worries me because I don't know what the fuse slot marked "VCC" is for. The one marked in Red is empty but has switched live. 

 

 

If I'm going off the diagram I found on Google, the Yellow marked slot is for trailer module (see pictures below)