I've been looking into fitting an extra 12v socket in the upper dash of my mk2.5 for a sat nav- so as to avoid having trailing wires down to the standard one. Spotted a guide about fitting one to the dash top storage bin, but being a style trim level mine doesn't have that.

Drilling the dash itself should of course give the same result, but is there a way of getting a hole saw in there? 

If you remove the stereo you should be able to see better up there to get an idea where to do it safely. Here is Lenny chopping away at his dash 

 

Alternatively fit a USB socket power supply inside the glove box, 

That's where I power my satnav from when required, see my other guide here: https://www.fordownersclub.com/topic/65147-guide-fitting-dual-camera-dvr-system-focus-mk2-mk25/?p=438442 

 

Hi Pete do you have the lift lid on top of your dash ?

I put a aux power supply under obd socket then ran sat nav cable up behind clocks and put a hole inside unit under lid then cable stays in lid out of way and when I want sat nav I lift lid clup sat nav on close lid sat nav has a disk on lid nice and tidy.

cheers 

Alan

 

26 minutes ago, Tekman said:

Hi Pete do you have the lift lid on top of your dash ?

I put a aux power supply under obd socket then ran sat nav cable up behind clocks and put a hole inside unit under lid then cable stays in lid out of way and when I want sat nav I lift lid clup sat nav on close lid sat nav has a disk on lid nice and tidy.

cheers 

Alan

 

thats what ive done on mine much easier

I don't have the lid/box on mine- just a plain dash top. The space where the lid would be is flat and slightly recessed, but it doesn't open. Looks like I should be able to drill down from the top and avoid the air vent ducts.

Next task is to find a switched live for the power socket- would be better than a permanent supply for a sat nav. If all else fails I'll use a relay to trigger it from the radio's key-switched input.

1 hour ago, Wookie Monster said:

I don't have the lid/box on mine- just a plain dash top. The space where the lid would be is flat and slightly recessed, but it doesn't open. Looks like I should be able to drill down from the top and avoid the air vent ducts.

Next task is to find a switched live for the power socket- would be better than a permanent supply for a sat nav. If all else fails I'll use a relay to trigger it from the radio's key-switched input.

Follow my dash cam guide for a switched live,

Just use a piggy back fuse adapter.

The feed then becomes live with ignition