Hello

Long story... about a year ago the car started up a bit ruff and there was a bit of a smell after 2 minutes everything was fine but black smoke when I kicked 1st and 2nd gear. On the way home one day the car stopped and the engine management light came up so I pulled over and restarted it....no problem and its never done that again and management light never come on again. Drove my mates car (same as mine) and his was more responsive but thought his might of had work done to it. 

Had the ECU remapped on Friday and he did a diagnostics test and 6 faults 5 was battery related (Need a new bat) and one which is P2263. I blocked the EGR yesterday but its not fixed the problem.

Anyway remapped it to 185bhp but when I'm in 4th from 18000-22000 there's a judder. I'm thinking it was the injectors but the error code made me think it could be something else. Was reading some of the other threds that it could be a split in the intercooler pipe or the control arm on the turbo. Had a quick look at the intercooler pipe (think it's the 3" one at the bottom at the front) looks ok but could be looking at the wrong pipe. Spent about 15 minutes looking for the turbo until I gave up and looked on the net and realised its at the back of the engine so I've not checked that but always thought the turbo was fine. Never thought I had a problem with the power but maybe the problem was there before I bought it and thats why I've never noticed it. 

Might buy a leak of test kit off the bay for the injectors but I dont think its going to sort out the error code.

Any ideas anyone where I should start? How do I make sure there no rips in the intercool pipe? 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2263

If the car has been re-mapped then this is a generic code but potentially indicates "a problem with either the fuel delivery system or a malfunctioning turbocharger boost system."
 

Thanks for the advice.Removed the plastic intercooler yesterday and thought the end was leaking... looked it the seal was broken but I looked on ebay for a second hand or new one and they all looked the same has mine. Saturday and Sunday I'm going to remove the full intercooler system, clean the EGR system remove the blanking plate for a week to clear it out completely but I noticed there was a bit of oil around the 2" pipe connecting the turbo to the intercooler so all the connectors are getting a good clean along with the sensors and engine. Sound be fun but at least I know where the leak going to be next time. 

 

"Over the years I have found that broken hoses or loose hose clamps causing major boost leaks cause this code to set." If the pipe you mention is leaking slightly, then a jubilee clip may assist.

Advise in the link is to systematically check these also:

Repair Procedures

• Inspect all hoses for cracks or loose clamps.
• Inspect the oil supply line to the turbo. Look for any leaks that could slow the oil flow to the bearing.
• Inspect the wastegate for proper movement. Make sure it closes all the way by detaching the control arm and manually moving it from open to closed.
• Remove the turbo and inspect the bearing seal for leaks. Oil inside the turbo on either side indicates a bearing failure. Spin the turbo by hand. It should spin easily.
• Check the exhaust side of the turbo for coking which prevents the vanes from functioning properly. In some cases the turbo can be cleaned.
• Attempt to move the turbo shaft fore and aft. No end play should be present. Look at the sides of the turbo and see if the vanes have been striking the casing.
• Replace the turbo if any of the above defects are present.
• On a diesel, visually inspect the injector pressure control sensor. Pull the electrical connector off the sensor. If any oil is present replace the sensor.
• Install the scan tool. Turn the key on and make a note of the IPC voltage. It should be approximately 0.28 volts. Start the engine. Now the voltage should have raised 1 volt to 1.38 at an idle. The voltage should rise with an increase in RPM.
• Check the EGR pressure sensor line for corrosion or contamination causing a blockage. Check the electrical connector.
• With the engine running check the intake boost pressure sensor for an even signal on the scan tool. Inspect the electrical connector for looseness or bent pins.
   

Going for the big one the Friday & Saturday and going to buy a new battery tomorrow thats £70 but from Friday the big clean up. Going to remove the vacuum valve and clean the sponge inside, remove the plastic intercooler pipe and add some RTV sealant to the end of it (just in case) while i'm under the engine going to remove the actuator position sensor and test/clean that. Going to remove the EGR and EGR cooler and give them a clean and I've just been watching a video on YouTube by Mr-Fix about spraying some Mr Muscle oven cleaner down the manifold and pumping the actuator with a syringe on one of the vacuum pipes. Just wanted to know if you had any ideas. Need to buy a syringe and a metre or so of pipe but have the rest of the gear.

Any sign of oil on the boost pipes or at the joins indicate a leak ('cos there is oil vapour in the boost from the breather) and it should stay inside the pipes, not leak out! So it is a useful clue to any less than 100% fully sound pipework. 

There was a little oil in the top pipe from the engine manifold to the intercooler which I thought was a bit weird and was going to start ripping the bits out today but it raining (the fine rain that socks you) still mite start. Going to install the batt today and run Fordscan to see if it show anything else. 

Replaced the 2" pipe from turbo to intercooler and the smoke has gone but code is still there even ran a DPF clean on Forscan so I'm back to the injectors. Did a live stopped and live driving test on Forscan CylBal_1,2,3,4 and it looks like 2 doesn't like idling and I don't know why 3 is upside down. Also tested the MAP but have no idea what to make of that but did get a error code P0106 after the DPF regen but deleted it and it stayed away.

Did you clean the MAF? Are there any pipe splits or loose pipes? Is the Turbo pipe tight with jubilee clips? I noticed with my former Mondeo diesel the turbo pipe was dripping, but once I did the jubilee clips up tight the running was fine.

No didn't clean the MAF I replaced the MAF 6 months or so ago. Thought I'd try that first due to price and time to fit. Jubilee clips are all tied down but didn't like the look of the 2" one from the turbo thats why I replaced it other than that is clean around the turbo. When I run Forscan my error code P2263 is different to all the others I've seen and when I delete it it doesn't come back when idling only after I've kicked it think its electrical? Still think I've a injector problem and going to buy a leakoff kit and one or two second hand injectors of ebay. It's driving me nuts and I've need been in limp mode. No idea where to start now. Never had a problem like this on my MK3 escort.....they where the days!

Code: P2263 - Turbo / Super Charge Boost System Performance

Additional Fault Symptom:
 - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold

Status: 
 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC
 - Test not complete

Module: Powertrain Control Module

Diagnostic Trouble Code details

Possible causes :

An electrical fault in the Turbocharger control circuit.

MAP sensor electrical failure.

Inspect connectors for signs of damage, water ingress, corrosion, etc.

If the code is set at idle renew the turbocharger. If the code is not set at idle investigate faults with the MAP.

===END PCM DTC P2263:16-68===

MAP sensor electrical failure.

Have you looked at the MAP sensor? 

Didn't think these engines even had one but I removed the so called MAP sensor and gave it a clean (Just with a rag) but didn't have a good enough volt meter  to check but ones comming tomorrow. Do you know how to test it? which wires are what and should the car be running?

Oh, OK... Mine's got a maf sensor on the air filter box, and a MAP sensor on the duct leading to the intercooler. It ain't exactly very easy to access tho'! 

You can use live data on Forscan to watch the MAP readings.  It reads boost pressure, so as the turbo boosts the pressure should go up quickly but smoothly.  You'll also see the MAF readings rise at the same time. 

Voltage figures will be difficult to test with a multimeter on an unloaded engine.

The MAP is going from 99 on idle and rises to 120 smoothly the MAF idles about 14 (a bit bouncy) to 77. 

Is there any chance this problem could be because of the injector? Heres a quick drive around.