I've had a 2005 Focus 1.6 Ghia Automatic since 2016. It's been a great car never gave me any trouble. Was going to change recently but now decided not to I think I can get another 40000mls from this car. When I got it, it had 65000 miles, since then I've changed oil and filter every year and plugs once and also I changed air filter (bit of a nightmare but eventually sorted it) Also did discs pads etc

My question is with a Focus of this age and mileage what should I do to keep it going? I think I should change gear box oil but auto gears are working fine so if I changed oil could it cause problems (if it's not broke don't fix it) also could I change gear box oil myself or do I need to go to a garage? (But I like to do stuff myself if I can, if auto gearbox change is like an oil change then I can do it) 

What else can I do as a diy mechanic to keep my car on the road? Thanks

In my last 2 cars ( a Nissan and a Toyota) I drove over 100K, if you've kept on top of the service it'll not be the engine or gearbox that kills it off, but rust or worn rubber seals and the like , The Toyota MR2 I did 125K and it was rust that did, it, the Nissan Micra 110K  failed suspension spring, then a drive shaft snapped..

Spot on yes.

3 hours ago, spagball said:

I've had a 2005 Focus 1.6 Ghia Automatic since 2016. It's been a great car never gave me any trouble. Was going to change recently but now decided not to I think I can get another 40000mls from this car. When I got it, it had 65000 miles, since then I've changed oil and filter every year and plugs once and also I changed air filter (bit of a nightmare but eventually sorted it) Also did discs pads etc

My question is with a Focus of this age and mileage what should I do to keep it going? I think I should change gear box oil but auto gears are working fine so if I changed oil could it cause problems (if it's not broke don't fix it) also could I change gear box oil myself or do I need to go to a garage? (But I like to do stuff myself if I can, if auto gearbox change is like an oil change then I can do it) 

What else can I do as a diy mechanic to keep my car on the road? Thanks

Was the timing belt done when you got it? 

Regular oil changes and keeping a look out for the dreaded tin worm is the best maintenance you can do.I always do an oil and filter change around 4000 miles.Pay particular attention to the top suspension strut housings they are water traps and could be an expensive welding fix 👍

3 hours ago, Mark-UK said:

In my last 2 cars ( a Nissan and a Toyota) I drove over 100K, if you've kept on top of the service it'll not be the engine or gearbox that kills it off, but rust or worn rubber seals and the like , The Toyota MR2 I did 125K and it was rust that did, it, the Nissan Micra 110K  failed suspension spring, then a drive shaft snapped..

I know what you mean - my previous car was a SEAT Exeo (rebadged Audi A4) that I'd bought from new. Had it for 9 years, got close to 100k miles without any problems and then suddenly all the wiring (and I mean ALL the wiring) started to disintegrate, apparently because the year I bought it was also the year that they changed over to biodegradable wiring! I was really gutted because it was a great car and one silly manufacturering decision meant that if I wanted to keep it running I'd have to replace all the wiring from one bumper to the other and everything in between!

Reading this with interest.Ive owned my 2004 Mk1 for 10 years and love it but rust will get it eventually .When do you call it a day?

49 minutes ago, catfish79 said:

Reading this with interest.Ive owned my 2004 Mk1 for 10 years and love it but rust will get it eventually .When do you call it a day?

I'm in a similar position to you.Two years ago i spent £500 on welding.I said to myself if anymore welding needs to be done then that will be the end.Passed latest MOT with only a minor advisory so it's had a reprieve👍  

Result William!! It’s a crying shame because body panels are usually in great nick.Subframe rot and I bet your welding was in the suspension mounting areas?

2 minutes ago, catfish79 said:

Result William!! It’s a crying shame because body panels are usually in great nick.Subframe rot and I bet your welding was in the suspension mounting areas?

yep, in the rear👍

rear seat belt mounts/fixings as well👍

Get timing belt and tentioners done , if that snaps then new.engine,  while getting  that done get the water pump.replaced and the auxiliary belt

Thanks for info sorry for late reply, I have noticed the car has started to feel different in the last year doesn't feel so firm and solid as before and definitely not as responsive to acceleration, also had to change the exhaust and a spring in last six months will look into timing belt and tensioners but think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy a more up to date model but I like automatics and 2012 Focus Automatic 1.6 to 2.0 range from around £5000 to £6000 grand so maybe I'll have to go for a manual this time to save a few quid or go for a Cat N

Just changed oil and filter and checked all wheel nuts now going to garage to get Timing Belt and Tensioner changed and water pump and also auxiliary belt how much should this cost? Priced timing belt and tensioner and water pump costs £80 but sure going to be alot more to fit

On 8/10/2020 at 7:29 PM, spagball said:

Just changed oil and filter and checked all wheel nuts now going to garage to get Timing Belt and Tensioner changed and water pump and also auxiliary belt how much should this cost? Priced timing belt and tensioner and water pump costs £80 but sure going to be alot more to fit

I had mine changed on my MK1 four years ago at 84000 miles and cost me approx £250 at a local independent👍 

£80 for  timing belt  I guess that's plus labour.  Now I don't want to worry you, but on my Nissan diesel Micra, the local garage (not dealer) did mine cheap at £570, as it's a near 8 hour job due to most of the engine having to come out. Now you look at something like an old Capri and it's a 5 min job at most.