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Noisy Ford C Max 1.6 tdci 2009

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Morning everyone i have recently replaced all the engine mounts, used a Febi one for the gearbox, Genuine ford for the rear one and a Mapco one from Ebay on the drivers side. so when the car is idling the dashboard vibrates the part in the centre with the cubby hole. when i accelerate it is loud and get harshness between 2400rpm and 3000 rpm but when cruising seems ok so bit stuck. 

Been underneath and check the exhaust isnt touching anywhere. Has had new clutch and DMF last month. The car was bought as a non runner so dont know what these are like i drive a Scirocco diesel which doesnt vibrate anywhere like this does. 

Also when driving i get vibration in the steering wheel not like balancing but just low level that makes your hands tingle 

any help would be super also if anyone else has a vibrating dash on idle that would help 🙂

thanks in advance 



  • Author

Just an update seems to be better once warmed up and if you drive gently it’s pretty quiet but as soon as you get it where the turbo boosts so to speak get real vibration 🧐

Stick with the Scirocco would be my advice! :biggrin:  Refinement levels are noticeably different!  VW put material between dash plastics to stop them rattling together for example.

As for the actual vibrations, they are a bit rough on cold idle, this is the older 16v engine isn't it?  They didn't fit the 8v until 2010 which is a little smoother.  You might find a new set of glowplugs help, or it might be down to worn injectors.  I assume it drives fine and there are no warning lights on?  

 

  • Author

Hi yes I’m noticing this refinement 😂😂😂 back to the car tho yes it’s the 16v unit and it’s had new glow plugs and refurbished injectors it seems to struggle on hills with three people on board have to use 3rd gear at about 3000rpm 😕 just fitted a egr blanking plate this morning let’s see how that works 

1 hour ago, charliewade71 said:

Hi yes I’m noticing this refinement 😂😂😂 back to the car tho yes it’s the 16v unit and it’s had new glow plugs and refurbished injectors it seems to struggle on hills with three people on board have to use 3rd gear at about 3000rpm 😕 just fitted a egr blanking plate this morning let’s see how that works 

Is it the 90bhp version or 110?  These do remap well if that's something you'd consider...  

EGR blank will eventually trigger the EML on these and isn't a great idea if it's a DPF model anyway.

  • Author

Hi yes it’s the 109bhp version was worried about the egr thought I’d give it a whirl did take to Ford for them to redo the egr set up used forscan but in the end tried them £85 pound later and no difference just thinking maybe the engine is a bit down o. Compression but it starts on the button every time 

No fault codes at all shown on Forscan?  Nothing for underboost or DPF efficiency?

 

  • Author

Let me re run it and see if anything is lurking in the background and post it later on thanks for your help 

  • Author

Did a scan and got the following codes up P2458-21 and P0299-21, i have cleared both and still the same im thinking maybe i had the pressure sensor hoses the wrong way round although i just assumed it was measuring a diferential so wouldnt be that critical ? 

did a screen shot when idling 

 

09092020.PNG

2 hours ago, charliewade71 said:

Did a scan and got the following codes up P2458-21 and P0299-21, i have cleared both and still the same im thinking maybe i had the pressure sensor hoses the wrong way round although i just assumed it was measuring a diferential so wouldnt be that critical ? 

did a screen shot when idling 

 

09092020.PNG

Lol...so those codes are underboost and DPF regen duration, lucky guess haha! :biggrin:

The DPF sensor pipes are critical.  If you get them backwards it'll read as a negative figure but as you've got a figure of +1, I'd assume they're alright.  Usually this code is caused by a partly blocked DPF and it's a pain to clear.  I wouldn't focus on that code for now though.

The lack of power will be caused by the underboost code - hopefully it's as simple as a split boost hose.  The metal boost pipe on the front of the engine can also crack around the welded brackets so that's also worth checking.

  • Author

hmmmm thats intresting as i just took for a bit of a sprited drive and after a bit the fan was running and it seemed to have lost its zest 😊 so i just switched the pipes round so that may have been a mistake but will see what happens later but in a more exciting development i have sorted the vibration !!!!!! It was the front right main engine mount, i had put a cheap one from fleabay on a `Mapco` one and i wasnt ever really happy with the quality as it did look a bit rough so i got a genuine one although second hand from a S40 Volvo as the part numbers were the same and it cured it dash board doesnt vibrate and its quiet so just need to sort this underboost code i did check the hoses before when i replaced the intercooler as it had a lot of oil in it from the previous turbo that decided the commit suicide before i go the car.. 

thanks for the help appreciated 

  • Author

Update I switched them back to how the pipes were as it was showing 0.0 pressure and that threw a code took the egr blanking plate out reset codes and car is running perfect so happy days 🙂 

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