Rear drum/shoes replacement?

[Macka09]

Hi all. I’ve got a 16 plate mk3 and I believe the rear shoes could do with being changed as the handbrake is quite loose. Is it a fairly straight forward job on these? I’ve done this on a previous car without a problem. Any advice would be great. 

[Gaz0000000]

Hi Doubt very much if they need replacing I would try adjusting the cable first 

[Macka09]

19 hours ago, Gaz0000000 said:

Hi Doubt very much if they need replacing I would try adjusting the cable first 

What makes you say that mate? I was thinking after 4 years they were probably due a replacement. How would I tighten up the cable is it easy enough?

[Gaz0000000]

I had a fiesta diesel and never touch the rear shoes had that car about ten years  , most new cars the cable adjusts when it joins to the handbrake lever with a 10mm nut if you lift the rubber boot you will see it 

[stef123]

Don't just tighten up the cable without inspecting/adjusting the shoes inside the drum. 

[Frowma]

You can check the rear shoes for wear, you'll need to jack the car up, take the wheel off and if there isn't an inspection hole you'll need to take the drum off as well. I'd be very surpised if you needed to change the rear shoes on a 4 year old car, brakes are weighted to the front (something like 70/30 distribution) so the rears don't get as much use as the fronts. Brake drums can be a massive main in the bum to remove. You may need a puller or a big pry bar to be able to lever the drum off. 

The adjustment of the handbrake itself is normally in one of two places, one on the cable under the car, sometimes near the hub(s), the other (more common) is on the handbrake itself, if you can pull the gaitor off (as Gaz said) around the base of the handbrake it should be obvious as to the adjustment.

Edit, here is a video showing where the adjustment nut is, on the hadnbrake itself inside the car.

 

 

 

[Phil3747]

Rear brake shoes are usually good for circa. 100k+ miles , so unless your anywhere near that, as others have said, it is highly likely that you just need to adjust the handbrake.

[F0CUE]

Could be the auto adjusters are frozen or the cylinders are leaking check operation of both. You can open the cover with a big screwdriver going around carefully chalk the other wheel and take off the handbrake as it makes its easier to remove. Do not press the brakes while the covers are off the ends of the cylinders will pop off. 

[ColW]

Hi,

I'm not sure where I have read it and if it is correct but I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

If the auto adjusters get stuck and the handbrake is struggling to hold the car I read that a quick reverse on an empty road and hard braking can free them up.

My car is coming up to 10 years old now with 65k on the clock and the rear brakes are still fine. I have to pull my handbrake quite hard to the third click to hold the car on a hill but the brakes are all working fine.

[F0CUE]

It's not so much a hard reverse it's reversing then using the handbrake or brakes to stop and the auto adjusters should adjust.  A bit more info... 

Drum brakes have return springs to return the shoes to a rest position and hardware to hold the shoes to the backing plate. The shoes return to a fully retracted or rest position when the pressure to the wheel cylinder is released. There is no compensation for lining wear.

In some cases, the master cylinder may contain residual check valves to prevent air from being drawn past the wheel cylinder cup seals when the shoes are retracted by the return springs.

Bendix/Wagner

The Bendix/Wagner self-energizing brake has a single anchor pin located above the wheel cylinder. The primary shoe is identified by its length and position on the shoe. The lining segment is shorter than the lining segment on the secondary shoe and is positioned toward the adjuster or heels of the shoe. When the brake is applied, the master cylinder applies hydraulic pressure to both wheel cylinder pistons.

The primary and secondary shoes engage the friction surface of the drum. The wrapping motion of the primary shoe transfers pressure through the adjusting screw driving the secondary shoe against the anchor pin and friction surface of the drum.

The secondary wheel cylinder piston is held in its rest position as the secondary shoe is driven against the anchor pin.

The adjuster mechanism is attached to the secondary shoe. It is a mechanical device that is made up of the three components.

First, an adjusting screw is a threaded device like a nut and bolt. The head of the bolt is a notched wheel with a cylindrical pin. A washer and slotted cap fits over the pin and engages the web section of the secondary shoe. The nut is also a slotted cap that threads onto the bolt and engages the primary shoe.

Second, a lever moves on a pivot to engage and turn the notched wheel.

Third, a cable or linkage is attached to the lever and the anchor pin to move the lever at its pivot point. There are springs and retainers to hold the mechanism in place.

The adjustment takes place when the vehicle is in reverse and the brakes are applied or when the parking brake is engaged. The cable or link attached to the anchor pin pulls the lever mechanism based on the movement of the secondary shoe.

When the brakes are applied, the lever cannot move the adjuster screw because the brake pressure is being used to apply the shoes. The adjuster lever mechanism must store the adjustment and turn the notched wheel when the brake is released.

There are two types of Bendix/Wagner self-adjusters. Type 1 uses a cable attached to the anchor pin and hook that is attached to the adjusting lever. A guide holds the cable in place. A spring connects the lever to the primary shoe to contain the adjuster. Type 2 uses a cable attached to the anchor pin with a spring and guide that attaches to the lever.

Type 2 uses the same cable guide as Type 1. On Type 2, the lever is connected to the secondary shoe with a pin and return spring. A spring connects the primary and secondary shoe to contain the adjusting screw.

On the Delco Moraine type, the adjuster uses a lever assembly, linkage and adjusting screw. The lever assembly is made up of the adjusting lever with spring-loaded link. The linkage is attached to the anchor pin and spring-loaded link of the assembly. The lever is attached to the secondary shoe at the shoe hold down. A lever return spring is placed between the lever assembly and shoe. A spring connects the primary and secondary shoe to contain the adjuster.

Dual Servo

Dual Servo brakes use two primary shoes and two anchor pins. The pistons of the wheel cylinder apply both of the shoes. The adjuster is located under the wheel cylinder. The adjuster uses an adjusting screw and notched wheel and lever in the same way as the Bendix/Wagner unit. A lever is attached to one of the shoes to adjust the notched wheel. The lever is usually part of the parking brake assembly.

There is no pressure on the adjusting screw when the brakes are applied, allowing the lever to turn the notched wheel. A return spring is used to contain the adjuster as with the Bendix/Wagner type.

Adjuster Inspection

The lever and notched wheel are in contact and move against each other every time the secondary shoe moves off the anchor pin. A groove can be worn in the lever and the notched wheel will also wear. A groove worn in the lever can prevent the adjuster from working properly.

In a disc/drum application, the automatic adjusters play an important role in maintaining proper brake balance when the shoes are seating to the drum. The linings on premium replacement shoes are eccentrically ground to produce a clearance at the shoe’s heel and toe. For the first 100 miles or more, the adjuster will be the most active and keep the brake pedal at its proper height. After the shoes have seated, the adjuster will turn the notched wheel in small increments. Replacing the adjusters can ensure proper brake application and pedal height.

[ColW]

Thanks for the detailed info Focue.

I'm not a mechanic but know just enough to get by with my own car. Computers/electronics is more my area.

The internet has made things so much easier to look up and find out how to repair things.

[mrmetallica]

On 9/13/2020 at 1:18 PM, Macka09 said:

What makes you say that mate? I was thinking after 4 years they were probably due a replacement. How would I tighten up the cable is it easy enough?

my cars 11 years old and the rear shoes havnt been done . still passes the mot no problems.

[F0CUE]

1 hour ago, ColW said:

Thanks for the detailed info Focue.

I'm not a mechanic but know just enough to get by with my own car. Computers/electronics is more my area.

The internet has made things so much easier to look up and find out how to repair things.

I was the same but dabbled in cars an learned alot along the way. 

[stef123]

Prime example of when the customers states, I just tighten up the handbrake without inspecting or adjusting the shoes! 
69k miles on this example.

[F0CUE]

2 hours ago, stef123 said:

Prime example of when the customers states, I just tighten up the handbrake without inspecting or adjusting the shoes! 
69k miles on this example.

Flat as pancakes 😂 pedal to the metal. 

[mrmetallica]

4 hours ago, F0CUE said:

Flat as pancakes 😂 pedal to the metal. 

so thats what it means  😂