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1.0L Ecoboost Induction Hose Mount Broken

Featured Replies

Hi all,

My 1.0L Ecoboost has recently developed a weird squeaking sound. It has been driving me crazy but yesterday I managed to pin point the issue.

The bolt securing the top section of the induction hose has completely snapped and the squeak is from the broken ends of the bolt rubbing together. I've highlighted the section of the hose mount in the images below and also thrown in a picture of the snapped bolt.

Has anybody got any experience of this and if so, is it an easy enough fix?

Cheers!

engine bay.jpg

Screenshot_20200915-222419_Video Player.jpg



I've just had exactly the same problem last week. It took me ages to work out what was squeaking each time I stopped the engine. I couldn't get the snapped stud out of the engine so I've just removed the top half of the snapped part from the hose so the ends can't rub. I'll end up making something to hold the hose in place I expect.

  • Author

No way! Same here, I was getting worried that it was something major. Managed to find it last night by pure chance. Thanks for that, I'll do the same so it at least stops the horrible squeak. 👍

I bet it's a common problem. I was worried it was a bearing squealing on the engine or something like that so I was relieved to find it was just a snapped stud. I wish I posted about it last week !

  • Author

I did the usual googling and ended up convincing myself it was much worse that it was. Like you said, it was a relief to see it wasn't anything too bad. Same here, been driving myself mad figuring it out.

It's a very common problem, usually you have to take the intake pipe off and undo the snapped part with the nut on using a socket/spanner and some sort of grips and then to get the snapped stud out by just using grips. You can buy a new stud from ford for a couple of quid. Sorry I don't know the part number. 

This happened to me too and was a really easy fix, I took out the induction hose as it makes access easier then removed the stud using a spanner (found it easier to use the ring type spanner as open ended can round it off)

The stud is cheap from any dealer but if you don't want to spend the cash there's actually a spare stud already on the engine you can use, just swap the broken stud you circled in red with the yellow one I've marked, just make sure both are nice n tight when swapped and put your induction hose back in place

20200917_004754.jpg

  • Author

Brilliant! Thanks for the advice all. I'll try to get it all sorted this weekend. Thank you 👍

  • 3 years later...

Sorry to dig this up a few years later but how do you get the studs out? When the stud is finished unscrewing, it can't be pulled out as it seems to get stuck. Like the stud gets wider on the other side and can't be pulled through unless you take loads of parts off the top of the engine.

On 10/27/2023 at 7:27 PM, SomethingAsADisplayName said:

Sorry to dig this up a few years later but how do you get the studs out? When the stud is finished unscrewing, it can't be pulled out as it seems to get stuck. Like the stud gets wider on the other side and can't be pulled through unless you take loads of parts off the top of the engine.

All the studs on the engine cover are captive insofar that they don't fall out when fully unscrewed. However, the collars that hold them in place are just a press fit into the plastic cover so with a bit of persuasion will come up and out with the studs if you pull on them. 

  • 2 months later...
On 10/29/2023 at 11:07 PM, MJNewton said:

All the studs on the engine cover are captive insofar that they don't fall out when fully unscrewed. However, the collars that hold them in place are just a press fit into the plastic cover so with a bit of persuasion will come up and out with the studs if you pull on them. 

 

Anybody know the ‘part-number’ of that stud ?

14 minutes ago, woody9146 said:

Anybody know the ‘part-number’ of that stud ?

It is factory fitted to the floor pan by resistance welding (spot welding). Even if it were available as a spare part I'm not sure how you would be able to fit it.

  • 8 months later...
On 1/3/2024 at 11:43 AM, woody9146 said:

Anybody know the ‘part-number’ of that stud ?

Might not be relevant to you anymore but the part number is 1948118. 
 

When looking online it may come up as three different items, one appears to be the whole rocker cover, another other I believe is one of the mounting points for the engine cover and finally one will be the stud. 
 

Ford don’t seem to sell it directly to consumer online, but a dealer may be able to help you. Arnold Clark Autoparts also have the part, no picture on their site but I’ve ordered it and it’s the right part. It’s reduced to £5.95 atm (plus shipping). 
 

https://www.arnoldclarkautoparts.com/products/ford-stud-ball-1948118?srsltid=AfmBOorLgWqltYc33BXRv60lS_Uao_4HbuYA1EO9HOoxcWvA-SHl_QOz

Online prices are insane so you may be able to save a tenner by visiting a dealer. 

Hi There, Can you push down top bracket to touch bottom stud quiet

              easily?, If so then remove top nut and threaded stud then remove

            bottom nut and stud. If all comes out ok then replace with ford part or

            threaded bar of the same diameter with some nuts and washers,

          or one long bolt with washers to use as spacers missing nut under bracket.

                                  Hope that helps Henry

                       

  • 1 year later...

Hi sorry to bother,

I’ve had this issue since my car is a Cat S, the whole intake box was pushed back and i’m assuming that’s what’s snapped the stud.

I’ve ordered this on ebay and got it, however when trying to take the bolt out of the rocker cover, the part i circled in red is obviously under it.

How am I able to get this out?

Thanks

IMG_1222.jpeg

Hi There,

Can you take pictures of broken parts could give better idea of

removal. From the still picture it looks like the piece under the rocker

cover , Is separate from threaded bar you may need to take off rocker

cover to remove threaded stud.

Henry

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