Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information

C-max 1litre eco-boost crank but not firing

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I've often stumbled across this forum looking for technical answers and found it very helpful in the past. Never actually posted before, but I'm in a fix and hoping I may be able to draw on the wealth of knowledge.

I have a 2013 C-Max with a 1l eco-boost engine. A couple of weeks ago I was doing some DIY runs, popped into screwstation to collect an order and on returning to the car it would not fire. Would crank happily but no start. Knowing better than to keep cranking, I tried some basic troubleshooting and started pulling fuses for fuel pump etc but nothing seemed to work. In the end I followed the flooded engine procedure in the manual and after a bit of persistent cranking the car started and off I went. On arriving at my destination I switched off and thought I'd try again. Started no problem. Left car overnight and the next day had the same issue as before. After about 10 minutes of cranking, letting starter cool and trying again I got it started. I proceeded to drive 60 miles with no perceivable change in performance to what is normal. Stopped at a fuel station, jumped in, started fine. Got home, left overnight and this time no amount of cranking worked, it was dead. Called local mechanic who has done some diagnostics, couldn't get to the bottom of it and has sent to an auto-electrician. The auto electrician found a bad earth sorted it and got it started. They called to say they would leave overnight just to check again when cold and will be back with me the next day. Same thing again the next day!

I've just had a call from the local mechanic who said they've done some compression tests. He said the worst cylinder was about 20 psi and the best around 120psi (I may have that wrong, but that was the ballpark difference). Suddenly the words 'new engine' were mentioned! Apparently these engines are a poorly designed nightmare and essentially a sealed unit. To the point that ford offer discounts on replacement engines (which sounds like an admission of guilt to me). With discount included, the install of the new block inc. labour is quoted at £3744! What I can't get my head around is that when I did get it started it was as if nothing was wrong. How can it need a new engine!

I will clarify, I could not rate the mechanics services enough. He's given me a replacement car which he's in no hurry to take back. Has said he would buy the C Max for £500 as a non-runner and will cover any charges to date. Even offered to check out any new car I may purchase free of charge. I'm not second guessing his diagnosis. But I have to exhaust my options as we took a £5k loan out two years ago thinking we'll finally invest in something half nice as a family car after years of £1k runarounds. (Turns out these days you can't even get one of those for less than £2k!).

Additional info -
The car was serviced back in January, we wondered if the wrong oil had been put in (I know the EB can be very sensitive) but according to the records that's all correct.

There has always been a little water leak around the turbo. I have watched this like a hawk, have to top up the water with <1/2 a litre over 3 months or so and checking the temperature gauge is a habitual part of my driving scan. Never seen it get hot.

About 80k miles on the clock.

Does anyone have any suggestions before I head to Halfords for a Claud Butler and kiddie trailer and spend the next 3 years paying for the privilege!

Thanks in advance!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good afternoon!

In my opinion you could buy a used engine from a scrapyard (after a good compression check with a mechanic of yours) or to repair the same engine with the replacement of the pistons and the piston rings that are the main cause of low compression...

''There has always been a little water leak around the turbo. I have watched this like a hawk, have to top up the water with <1/2 a litre over 3 months or so and checking the temperature gauge is a habitual part of my driving scan. Never seen it get hot.''

You might also have a cracked engine cover and a leak of cooling liquid inside the compression champer, so the broken cylinder's damage is due to the leak.

I think you should try to search it a little bit more with different mechanics.

There is always a solution with the engines. 

I hope you should not pay a lot of money fixing it and have your car working again soon!

Good luck!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...