2011 Focus 1.8 

I have been having intermittent trouble starting the car for the last 4 months. 

When I turn the key the immobiliser light flashes and it car won't start. It says Engine Malfunction in the dash. In the past after repeating this process the car eventually would start. 

I sent the car into my local garage when it first happened and they sent away the instrument cluster to be repaired, which didn't work. 

Sent it to Ford, they sent it straight back as it worked fine when it was with them. 

Sent it to another garage they too sent the instrument cluster off, which was sent back as no faults were found with it. 

Sent to another garage, found a burnt out joint on BCM soldered that back up, but still same issue. 

Once the car is running everything is fine. No loss of power to the dash or limp mode.  

Now the car won't start no matter what I try. 

Please help 

 

Have you got more than one key for your car? If so have you tried the other key ?

Sounds like the chip in the key is not being read when the key is put in the ingnition. possible fault with the loop aerial around the ignition switch, maybe a simple case of it becoming disconected

If your ford focus does not recognize your key the immobiliser light will flash and the car won't start. try turning the key to the second position 4 times and then initialize the start mode to reset the immobiliser.

I have two keys and neither one will start the car.

I have tried putting position 2 four times and it doesn't make any difference. 

There has always been a clicking sound just before the can turned over (coming from the fuse box) I read somewhere about it possibly being a faulty relay, so I open up the fuse box this morning and when trying to start the car I identified where the clicking sounds was coming from. It was from this relay (picture attached) 

Is this normal, to be a able to hear and actually feel the relay operating?

My plan now is to go to Ford tomorrow to get a new relay switch.

3 minutes ago, ChrisAndy said:

My plan now is to go to Ford tomorrow to get a new relay switch.

 

Your fault diagnosis is interesting. I would be replacing bits I know to be faulty. The guesswork of 'trial & error' is short road to an empty bank balance, and a continued unresolved fault. You've already spent a fortune on various 'Ford' folk having a go. Would you not feel better getting a proper trained auto spark to diagnose the fault?

Quick answer to your relay question. Yes it is totally normal to be able to hear the relay operate, and also if you touch it while it operates you will feel the click as the relay contacts close. Its generally a good sign as it proves the relay is operating. (and yes of course the contacts could be welded together but in this case I would say not)

Thanks, good to know about the relay,  I'm guessing that probably rules that out then. 

I am now (as suggested) trying to find a good Auto Electrician in my area. 

Any suggestions on how to go about choosing one....?

19 minutes ago, ChrisAndy said:

Any suggestions on how to go about choosing one....?

I've always relied on good word of mouth. Fancy ads in 'yellow pages' aren't a good teller of quality. If you know anyone with an old classic car (they always need work done), ask them, that's how I found my guy 25 years ago. Garage looks like nothing, but his talent and knowledge is excellent. (and he doesn't charge the earth). I suppose these days there is an 'online' way of finding talent, but you'll need a younger member than me to advise LOL

Did you find out the problem as I'm having the same.

1 hour ago, G1NN3R5 said:

Did you find out the problem as I'm having the same.

Yours is a totally different model.  Have you tried replacing the keyfob batteries if push-button start?

Key broke off in the ignition so I replaced the ignition cylinder but now the anti theft is engaged. What do I do?

 

might depend how much you changed

many cars have a "ring antenna" around the ignition switch that reads the key' embedded chip info when its in the ignition - and only if the engine ECU (or cluster depends which bit has the immobiliser bit) likes the look of the info in the key, with it allow the vehicle to start

if you got an entire key and switch combo - it will need linking up to the car's brain

you could pull the old and new key apart and fit the brain of the old key in the new key - TO TEST IF ITS THIS FIRST HOLD THE OLD KEY BESIDE THE IGNITION SWITCH AND START WITH THE NEW KEY (if that works its only that initial check requiring the chip to be near the switch for the rest of the trip)

or get timpson to copy the brain of the original key into the new key (buy paying £70 to pretend they cut and cloned the old key)

any more agro than that - plug in decent diagnostics to see what going on - and likely will need to set up the keys and immobiliser stuff afresh

 

 

 

I thought he/she meant the steering lock.