Hiya,

I’m a recent returning Ford owner. My mrs likes my little 1.6tdci focus so much she’s stealing it from me so I’m looking for a comfortable mile muncher for work.

so I have the opportunity of a 2.2 tdci ST estate, 172000 miles around £700. Seems too cheap, it apparently randomly goes into limp mode and current owner has been advised likely an injector. I remember from years ago the 2.0 diesel used to Occasionally need an injector and programming etc.

if I proceed on the basis/risk that I need a set of injectors what’s this likely to set me back?. I have forscan Various leads including f-super which I think I bought years ago with intention to have the ability to program injectors etc…is it a diy at home job. I’m an ex vehicle/diesel fitter so have no concerns ref the fitting more the cleverness of modern technologies that have moved on while I’ve been out of the business.

apparently when in limp mode all is ok just underpowered which sounds more like what I’ve had happen with turbo issues - overboost etc when the car effectively switches the turbo out. It apparently passed its MOT like this and this expires in September. 

sorry for the long ramble just wondered if anyone could throw any thoughts in the ring.

I was offered a 2.2TDCI Ghia X for scrap value with limp mode and an assumed injector fault a few years ago.  Turned out to be just the turbo actuator at fault, cost about £30 for a used replacement.  Would you be able to scan it for faults before purchasing?  

I may be able to plug it in yes, I’ve got a autotel hand held basic reader. But it could remove my haggle ability lol but also save me from horrible codes. I’ve got a video of it today driving with light appearing to come on looks like around 60-70mpg a little over 2k revs, it was on eBay and I missed out on it. I messaged the seller suggesting to contact me if he was let down. The buyer arrived and said it was too noisy….which potentially doesn’t sound good. But my memory of those engines is there weren’t the most quiet engines anyway and that was then I don’t really know what’s normal at 172k miles.

38 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Turned out to be just the turbo actuator at fault, cost about £30 for a used replacement.  Would you be able to scan it for faults before purchasing?  

I’m kind of hoping for this type of outcome. £700 still sounds good for a ST 2.2D despite its age. Looks tidy otherwise 

Depends which part was noisy...may just have an aftermarket exhaust being an ST?

But yeah, those engines aren't exactly quiet anyway!

£700 sounds ok if it doesn't need much work...but the injectors are notorious on them and if it needs a full set then it'd have to be virtually scrap value for me!  The DMF is also a common fault so check that doesn't rattle.  It may already be on its second at that mileage.

I was more thinking the distinctive sound of these duratorqs or whatever they’re called in the ST could get confused for noisy so to speak.

I asked the chap for a video from cold start up with bonnet open and it’s not the greatest quality tho. I’m also concerned if there’s a bit of flywheel type noise these I recall used to put lights on as they got worse as I think there was a flywheel sensor. Maybe I just need to wait for one a little closer to home rather than have a trip to Wisbech for nothing. Although I did bid on it previously so I must’ve convinced myself of something lol!

Hi, if you def. want a TDCi, then invest in a Tunnelrat Electronics code reader.... they will read Ford codes and also code the injectors, running software called Forscan. Cheap as chips too! *  Injectors you can get refurbed ones for £130 each (last time I looked) but could also be the pump. As you can do stuff yourself, then it's viable....esp. if it'll need a new clutch and dmf (they last around 130k)

Would be useful to know IF clutch + dmf + csc have been replaced else will def. be on their way out. Awesome car though... I love my estate Ghia X.                                                       btw, the 'underpowered' means it is in limp mode which the ecu goes into when it detects certain faults. It could just be a turbo actuator causing it due to sticky blades  (quite common) - but you need to read the codes! 

*I see you've got some diagnostic equipment! *

12 hours ago, nicam49 said:

As you can do stuff yourself, then it's viable....esp. if it'll need a new clutch and dmf (they last around 130k)

Would be useful to know IF clutch + dmf + csc have been replaced else will def. be on their way out. Awesome car though... I love my estate Ghia X.                                                       btw, the 'underpowered' means it is in limp mode which the ecu goes into when it detects certain faults. It could just be a turbo actuator causing it due to sticky blades  (quite common) - but you need to read the codes! 

*I see you've got some diagnostic equipment! *

That was pretty much my thinking, unfortunately I came out of the industry before the cars I were looking after started to get the miles on them really so my mechanic logic doesn’t always fit/work. To me if an injector is knackered then it’s knackered all the time and usually accompanied by smoke etc. This fault seems intermittent so I’m hoping for something a bit more straightforward, as two of you have now said turbo actuator I was also thinking an issue relating to to turbo and the Variable vane arrangement but am going to go down today and hopefully have it. I really don’t want to have to do the flywheel and clutch and slave. I did one on my drive for a friend years ago and isn’t something I want to repeat - worse for him because he bought a chocolate solid conversion which lasted a month!

Yes I have a few diagnostics bits, haven’t used forscan yet but have it all set up and I think when I bought the autel handheld it was a reasonable spec for day to day stuff without having the laptop out.

Well I bought it, gave £600 which I think was pretty fair.

haven’t had chance to plug it in yet but in fairness over 90 miles it behaved itself and returned apparently 53mpg.

I need to remember how to read tibbe keys and get a spare cut and figure if forscan will let me code a new chip key.

overall, we’ll until it decides to go into limo mode I’m happy for now. A lot of car for £600…

thabks everyone for your input so far

I used forscan to do key programming on a 2008 focus mk2.5 so hopefully it works on your car. Used usb cable elm327 thing from tunnel rat electronics with forscan on windows laptop with the forscan extended licence

47 minutes ago, isetta said:

I used forscan to do key programming on a 2008 focus mk2.5 so hopefully it works on your car. Used usb cable elm327 thing from tunnel rat electronics with forscan on windows laptop with the forscan extended licence

Hopefully, I think with these if you had two chipped keys you could program a third but hopefully forscan can help. Thank fully these are the keys you can fairly simply swap the chip to other keys. Where I used to work we had a wall of red master keys and then the later blue chip keys etc so I’m just lost !!

Also if anyone could assist in letting me know if there is a similar test sequence on this model of car to say the focus with pressing the heated rear screen switch to get into test mode….it would be hugely appreciated.

I have non functioning cruise control, cruise control symbol lights on dash start up/ignition on but nothing when driving so my thoughts were to first test the buttons are seen/working in the PCM or similar if this similar test mode existed on this car….

thanks

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http://www.mirez.co.uk/map.htm