Hi

My car recently refused to start, I thought it was the battery (it has intermittent battery drain gremlins, so is usually on an optimiser but wasn't that night) so charged it all day but it still wouldn't start.  I disconnected the battery and then it worked that evening, several journeys with engine on and off a few times without an issue.

Next day car refused to start again and disconnecting the battery made no difference.  My regular mechanic has been out and his Snap-On kit says the ECU isn't communicating, but the other modules are.  He's had no problems previously.

He removed the ECU and I sent it to ECUTesting.com, they have contacted me to say they're unable to test it.

The car is a 2.2 TDCi with the 173bhp PSA engine.  The earthing points have been cleaned, the wires have been looked at and the battery has been disconnected for hours.

Any ideas?

I'd rather not get rid but running out of ideas.

Thanks

 

 

Hello Craig.

We just need a better understanding of some of your issues. When you say it wont start, does the starter turn over at normal speed ? Is there any attempt from the engine to try and fire ?

Snap-on obdII code readers are very good, but often can not read all of the Ford specific DTC's.

I would get a laptop and use FORScan software (it's free), connect up using a vLinker FS lead to the OBDII port and recheck for all Ford specific codes.

3 minutes ago, unofix said:

Hello Craig.

We just need a better understanding of some of your issues. When you say it wont start, does the starter turn over at normal speed ? Is there any attempt from the engine to try and fire ?

Snap-on obdII code readers are very good, but often can not read all of the Ford specific DTC's.

I would get a laptop and use FORScan software (it's free), connect up using a vLinker FS lead to the OBDII port and recheck for all Ford specific codes.

When trying to start the car absolutely nothing happens, then there's a few beeps, 'Engine malfunction' flashes on the screen and then 'Immobiliser active'

Thanks for replying.  Happy to invest in the cable for FORScan if that's likely to be of benefit.

 

Thanks for the extra info.

It could be a number of things, but guessing could take time and become expensive. First try using FORScan and see if there are some codes that will help.

Download FORScan (free): https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable (£38): https://www.bmdiag.co.uk/forscan-diagnostic-cable-for-ford-vgate-vlinker-fs

1 hour ago, unofix said:

Thanks for the extra info.

It could be a number of things, but guessing could take time and become expensive. First try using FORScan and see if there are some codes that will help.

Download FORScan (free): https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable (£38): https://www.bmdiag.co.uk/forscan-diagnostic-cable-for-ford-vgate-vlinker-fs

Excellent, thanks.  Cable ordered & I'll add more details once I've got it.

On 3/15/2022 at 10:17 PM, unofix said:

Thanks for the extra info.

It could be a number of things, but guessing could take time and become expensive. First try using FORScan and see if there are some codes that will help.

Download FORScan (free): https://forscan.org/download.html

vLinker FS cable (£38): https://www.bmdiag.co.uk/forscan-diagnostic-cable-for-ford-vgate-vlinker-fs

My vLinker FS cable wouldn't work, I tried it on 2 other cars & another laptop so it likely needs to be replaced.

Someone has scanned the car for me and their scanner picked up the attached issues.  It was also saying "the unique pcm identifier is unrecognized"

Looks like it's going to need an auto electrician?  Any good Ford ones in the Stockport area?

 

Bad news about getting a faulty cable.

Looking at your DTC's there seems to be an issue with the Canbus and the IPC. Have you taken the instrument cluster out to check the soldering ? Your car is of the right age to have the IC's with the dry solder joints (poor quality lead free solder).

1 minute ago, unofix said:

Bad news about getting a faulty cable.

Looking at your DTC's there seems to be an issue with the Canbus and the IPC. Have you taken the instrument cluster out to check the soldering ? Your car is of the right age to have the IC's with the dry solder joints (poor quality lead free solder).

No, that could be my task for weekend though!  I'll get that removed and checked if that's a possible cause.  Thanks, I'll report back with my findings.

I've also cleaned every fuse in the car and taken a look at the green connector on the BCM for corrosion, which was spotless.

 

You need to clear all faults first as they don't have date stamps. Then run the car for a bit and re-read the codes and see which ones are there. These are the ones you need to be interested in. 

Try and get a replacement cable, or a Tunnelrat electronics one. Much better than paying £100 per hour + vat to a Ford garage. And you can use it as often as you like. 

 

 

2 hours ago, nicam49 said:

You need to clear all faults first as they don't have date stamps. Then run the car for a bit and re-read the codes and see which ones are there. These are the ones you need to be interested in. 

Try and get a replacement cable, or a Tunnelrat electronics one. Much better than paying £100 per hour + vat to a Ford garage. And you can use it as often as you like. 

 

 

I've removed the instrument cluster, is there a guide for what to lookout for somewhere?

The part is showing as 8M2T-10849-WB, VP8M2F-10849-WB.  Manufactured July 2008.

The codes were cleared several times and those were the ones that kept coming back.

BMDiag have been great & offered a replacement, I just wanted to try another laptop before concluding it was the lead.  I'll get mine sent back & replaced.

The solder joints of every connection of every component needs to be re-soldered using good quality solder.

It is a slow process and you really need a good quality soldering iron. The best option to send it away to one of the many companies that advertise on eBay. Cost is about £85

After a couple of months of trying various things I got an auto electrician in yesterday and he had the car running within 45 minutes.  Turned out to be a damaged wire near the ECU that had rubbed on the chassis.

Car is once again running beautifully 😁

That's great news! Thanks for the update 👍